My blown SBC build

[Husqy510]

As some of you have already seen, I recently scored an old drag car that has sat in storage for roughly 40 years. My goal is to make a barely street legal hotrod I can drive to the local cars and coffee.

This post will be about the motor build. I'd like a healthy little motor that looks true to what the original car had, with some modern upgrades. What I know about the motor is it has head studs, double hump heads with an old GM 671 and Hilborn injection. I pulled a valve cover and everything looks spotless with some single valve springs and stamped steel rockers. I plan to utilize the blower, but as much as I'd like too, I don't think the Hilborn will work for me.

So now I'm looking for some input on my plan from the gear heads with a lot more knowledge than me.

I was told the motor might be filled with concrete, but I've also heard that if it's a "half fill" I can still run it on the street with a good cooling system and oil cooler. My plan is to install a couple 750's I already have in the garage along with a roller cam and updated ignition.

Do you think I can make those carbs work on a small block? What about he block fill, do I need a new block?

 

[Kachina26]

As some of you have already seen, I recently scored an old drag car that has sat in storage for roughly 40 years. My goal is to make a barely street legal hotrod I can drive to the local cars and coffee.

This post will be about the motor build. I'd like a healthy little motor that looks true to what the original car had, with some modern upgrades. What I know about the motor is it has head studs, double hump heads with an old GM 671 and Hilborn injection. I pulled a valve cover and everything looks spotless with some single valve springs and stamped steel rockers. I plan to utilize the blower, but as much as I'd like too, I don't think the Hilborn will work for me.

So now I'm looking for some input on my plan from the gear heads with a lot more knowledge than me.

I was told the motor might be filled with concrete, but I've also heard that if it's a "half fill" I can still run it on the street with a good cooling system and oil cooler. My plan is to install a couple 750's I already have in the garage along with a roller cam and updated ignition.

Do you think I can make those carbs work on a small block? What about he block fill, do I need a new block?

Filled with concrete?

 

[obnoxious001]

Filled with concrete?

Drag racing deal, makes the block stronger. More typical is the "half fill" up to the bottom of water pump holes.

 

[Kachina26]

Drag racing deal, makes the block stronger. More typical is the "half fill" up to the bottom of water pump holes.

Definitely takes away from streetability.

 

[Husqy510]

I assumed the block would need to be replaced, but then I started doing some research and finding guys that run it on the street. I'll pull a head and see what I find.

 

[obnoxious001]

I assumed the block would need to be replaced, but then I started doing some research and finding guys that run it on the street. I'll pull a head and see what I find.

Pull the water pump and see, much easier. Guys do run them on the street.

 

[Husqy510]

Did a little work on the car today. Pulled the blower, injection and ignition. Blower is an old Potvin which I guess they used to front mount on old dragsters and hotrod. The blower is going to Littlefield on Monday, and the injection and ignition are getting shipped to Fuel Injection Enterprises in Oregon.

I also removed the water pump and I don't see any signs of cement in the block.

 

[timstoy]

I heard a rumor that Littlefield is closing. Hope it’s not true. Some blocks were filled with cement to the bottom of the side freeze plugs for regedity.

 

[Husqy510]

I heard a rumor that Littlefield is closing. Hope it’s not true. Some blocks were filled with cement to the bottom of the side freeze plugs for regedity.

They didn't mention anything when I spoke with them. They did move to Rancho Cucamonga.

I was able to go about 2" deep from the water pump passages and didn't feel anything. I'll run it and hope for the best.

 

[timstoy]

I did not know Littlefield moved. Mert was in Anaheim for a long time.Glad to see they are open, they do good work. I have kind been out of the loop for awhile. I know some parts have been hard to get for awhile. If the block looks good run it. Hampton Blowers in Downey also does good work and have been around for a long time.

 

[Husqy510]

Well my blower is pretty hammered, but still worth something to the nostalgia guys. So I picked up this package today. Came with complete blower kit plus carbs and enderle setup for EFI

 

[obnoxious001]

They didn't mention anything when I spoke with them. They did move to Rancho Cucamonga.

I was able to go about 2" deep from the water pump passages and didn't feel anything. I'll run it and hope for the best.

Pull the drain plugs, put a fitting with water in and see if it comes up to the water pump holes.

 

[Husqy510]

Great idea Barry. The car is stored at my parents house, but I went there today to remove the plug. Unfortunately I didn't have the right tools, but I did get the numbers off the block. Looks like it's a 2 bolt 327 built in 62. I'm assuming the guy pulled the short block out of a junkyard and bolted on his top end, but who knows.

 

[mash on it]

'62 has (had) a forged crankshaft originally. Depending on HP specifically, it could even have forged factory pistons.
My '65 327 (L79), Std bore, has forged pistons. All small journal SBC's were 2 bolt mains.

Dan'l

 

[Husqy510]

I finally had a chance to work on this thing. Pulled the front clip, motor and trans.

I'm rebuilding all the suspension with tubular control arms, double adjustable QA1s, four link and new Ford 9".

Plan with the motor is to pull heads and oil pan, and inspect everything. If it looks good I will reassemble with new seals and run it.

Not sure what to do with trans. Fluid was clean, but I have no idea what converter is in it. I guess I could change the seals, add some fluid and assume the guy had the combo pretty well dialed in.

 

[Husqy510]

Removed the heads and oil pan and found some interesting things... It's a small journal 327 with a forged "2680" crank

The rods appear to have been welded for reinforcement and the middle 3 caps have these extra caps on top.

The bores are decent, except this one

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

Con rod reinforcement.......

 

[Husqy510]

Con rod reinforcement.......

I guess it was a thing. This motor has a lot of old school speed parts

 

[Eliminator21vdrive]

I guess it was a thing. This motor has a lot of old school speed parts

Cool! I have been doing engine work since 1980 and this is a first for me. Cool stuff for sure although I would make them garage art (and I would buy one) and put a new set in it.. The main cap brace is way more common!

 

[motormonkey]

What a time capsule. So cool.
I would put it back together and run it just for nostalgia sake. Box rods and cap straps blower and hat.

 

[Husqy510]

Just dropped the heads of at Valley head service for a once over. Plan is to keep it as original as possible. Eventually I'd like to reinstall the injection, but for now I'm going to run a pair of 650s with blower 10% underdriven.

What head gaskets and intake gaskets do you recommend?

 

[motormonkey]

Just dropped the heads of at Valley head service for a once over. Plan is to keep it as original as possible. Eventually I'd like to reinstall the injection, but for now I'm going to run a pair of 650s with blower 10% underdriven.

What head gaskets and intake gaskets do you recommend?

How's this coming along?

 

[Husqy510]

I decided to go a different route and purchased this complete blown SBC. The heads did get a clean bill of health, but I'm going to sell them.

As always life with two small kids is busy so I haven't done as much work on the car as I'd like

 

[motormonkey]

Nice. That's a dramatic change in direction. LOL

 

[Bugginout]

Are you going to leave that water pump and oil cooler on the motor? CSR sells an electric water pump that works pretty well on street driven blower motors. The oil cooler I think is definitely going to be in the way. That Little small small block should be one hell of a ride. Now you are definitely going to need a trans and converter to back that up

 

[Husqy510]

Are you going to leave that water pump and oil cooler on the motor? CSR sells an electric water pump that works pretty well on street driven blower motors. The oil cooler I think is definitely going to be in the way. That Little small small block should be one hell of a ride. Now you are definitely going to need a trans and converter to back that up

I'm removing the water pump and oil cooler, and I'll be installing an electric water pump. I'm hoping to keep the dry sump, but we'll have to see how it all fits. I have a small moon fuel tank that will sit in front of the grill and serve as the reservoir for the intercooler.

I have a turbo 400 with manual valve body and 3500 stall

 

[Bugginout]

I'm removing the water pump and oil cooler, and I'll be installing an electric water pump. I'm hoping to keep the dry sump, but we'll have to see how it all fits. I have a small moon fuel tank that will sit in front of the grill and serve as the reservoir for the intercooler.

I have a turbo 400 with manual valve body and 3500 stall

Keep us posted! What gear and what size tire are you running? I'm a gear head

 

[Husqy510]

Keep us posted! What gear and what size tire are you running? I'm a gear head

I'm running a narrowed 9" with 389s from Currie. Not sure about tires yet. The car will be very lite and will spend most of its time cruising locally.

 

[Bugginout]

I'm running a narrowed 9" with 389s from Currie. Not sure about tires yet. The car will be very lite and will spend most of its time cruising locally.

I was just wondering because of the converter stall speed. I run a 31 18.50 15 on my nova with a 4.11 right now and my converter on motor is 3600 and 4500 on the sauce. Can't wait to see you up and running.