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Need an electrician's expert opinion...

Water Romper

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I will start off by saying: I am terrified of electricity. So be gentle-
Got a new (used) fridge/freezer for the garage (Frigidaire) works great- After plugging it is, purrs just fine for about 2-3 hours ,freezer freezes, fridge is cold. Then, the GFI plug trips shutting off the fridge. un plugged the other outlets that were "dead" so now its just the fridge, reset the red button on the outlet, a few hours later, trips the outlet again (The breaker at the panel is fine)

A bit of research suggests the GFI switch may be bad, try replacing (apparently they go bad?) house is about 20 years old, your thoughts?
 

Nanu/Nanu

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Go for it! Open the breaker at the panel and wear dishwashing gloves or get a voltmeter to test your socket before starting work.

May want to check amp rating of your GFI. Maybe get a bigger one. Your breaker maybe fine but the fridge is pulling to many amps on the GFI at some point in it's cycle causing the trip.

Im just a Lineman, so I wouldn't take my word as gospel but I hope it helps.
 

WaterMike

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GFCI receptacles are not big fans of motor loads. The GFCI sees the current imbalance from the compressor motor switching on and off. When they get old they get weak and nuisance trip. Best to start with replacing the GFCI receptacle, get someone that knows what they are doing if you are not comfortable. Electricity hates everyone.

2011 NEC 210.8(A)(2) Requires Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter.

(2) Garages and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.
 
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mesquito_creek

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I would start by opening the back lower panel on the fridge thoroughly cleaning the coil and fan blades etc... to make sure the fridge can operate correctly. Then move on to the electric service. Unplug the fridge and roll it out of the garage, there is no hazard in this task....
 

Taboma

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I will start off by saying: I am terrified of electricity. So be gentle-
Got a new (used) fridge/freezer for the garage (Frigidaire) works great- After plugging it is, purrs just fine for about 2-3 hours ,freezer freezes, fridge is cold. Then, the GFI plug trips shutting off the fridge. un plugged the other outlets that were "dead" so now its just the fridge, reset the red button on the outlet, a few hours later, trips the outlet again (The breaker at the panel is fine)

A bit of research suggests the GFI switch may be bad, try replacing (apparently they go bad?) house is about 20 years old, your thoughts?

As a long retired sparky, I do not recommend putting refrigerators or Freezers on GFI protected circuits. Code or no code, due to the potential of the problem you're experiencing. When I installed a freezer in the garage, I removed the GFCI receptacle that had per code been installed (By me) as required for garage outlets and replaced it with a conventional receptacle. When it's time to sell the house, I will re-install it in order for it to pass inspection.
With that written --- since the refrigerator and or freezer will no longer be protected for ground faults, I strongly suggest the following:

DO NOT go bare footed and fondle or attempt to open the refrigerator --- now, in reality humans have done this for a hundred years prior to any GRCI receptacles and somehow survived --- but even miniscule odds occasionally hit.

Added by Edit: I'd be remiss if I didn't include ---- Usually, GFCI receptacles are wired into circuits upstream (Nearer the source) to protect several other receptacles after them (Downstream). In other words, the GFCI receptacles have an "Line" (Input from source) and " Load " ( Protected output to downstream receptacles). This why often when an outside weatherproof receptacle trips, the GFCI is actually located in a nearby bathroom.
If you remove and replace that GFCI receptacle with a normal Non-GFCI version, you've not only eliminated the protection for that outlet, but all those on the same circuit downstream. The best solution, is to ONLY eliminate the GFCI for the specific receptacle the refrigerator or freezer is connected to, and you relocate the GCFI down stream of that one, so the others downstream remain protected.
This may not be something you're either capable of, or comfortable with --- this presents a problem, because most any licensed electrical contractors (Or electrician) won't risk the liability -- But perhaps a neighborhood handyman will ?? Perhaps you could be RDP coached through it ?

A year ago when I purchased and installed a new garage freezer, I noted in the instructions that they advised against having it plugged into a GFCI receptacle due to the possibility of nuisance tripping and spoiled food.
 
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ltbaney1

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people are normally shocked when they find out what kind of electrican i am :). but my understanding is that the GFI breakers dont like spike and drop when the compressors start. i had a similair problem when i tried to run my air compressor off of a GFI. had a buddy who is comfortable switch it out and no more problems. all of the plugs in my garage where GFI for some reason.
 

Maw

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Not too sure I understand why a GFCI breaker has a problem with high surge loads? I thought these used a differential mode CT on their two power leads. As long as the forward and return currents are balanced (no alternate current paths) the CT output is zero, and no trip occurs.
 

Taboma

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people are normally shocked when they find out what kind of electrican i am :). but my understanding is that the GFI breakers dont like spike and drop when the compressors start. i had a similair problem when i tried to run my air compressor off of a GFI. had a buddy who is comfortable switch it out and no more problems. all of the plugs in my garage where GFI for some reason.

They're all GFCI today, because unfortunately, back in the day our power tools were not cordless or single and double insulated --- metal drill motors with metal handles and folks standing on concrete barefooted or with wet shoes and well --- 120V although scoffed at by tough internet warriors, has a nasty characteristic of causing muscles to contract and remain like that while receiving an electrical shock.
As such, the victim would find him or herself, holding let's say an all metal 3/8" drill, it having shorted to ground is now using their body as a conductor to ground --- AND, they find they can't drop the drill because the muscles in their hand have contracted and they can't let go.
So they groan loudly, usually unable to scream in terror, until they slowly die, which takes awhile, it's not pleasant.

An Electrician I knew many many years ago, died by electrocution under his girlfriends house all alone, doing a side job, drill went to ground, he was laying on damp ground, he couldn't let go. He was found much later when she realized he was no where to be found.

That's why, GFCI's were initially mandated for Bathrooms, outdoors and Garages ---- places where you'd be more likely to find electricity in proximity to water or a grounded surface. Now, well now in part thanks to manufacturers scaring the bejeezus out of authorities, we're so well protected we've got GFCI's and ARCfaults on places where it would take a miracle to get shocked.

Anyway, GFCI receptacles HAVE an installed lifespan, they were not designed to last and protect forever, usually about 10 years. I've had to replace a few for neighbors when they started getting nuisance tripping. They get sensitive and moody. 😂 Also many of the new "China" specials are cheap pieces of shit. :mad:
 

Taboma

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Not too sure I understand why a GFCI breaker has a problem with high surge loads? I thought these used a differential mode CT on their two power leads. As long as the forward and return currents are balanced (no alternate current paths) the CT output is zero, and no trip occurs.

You and I both know, not all GFCI's are precision instruments and especially if they're older, can certainly be prone to nuisance tripping. I was a bit surprised when the new freezer instructions recommended it not be powered from a GFCI receptacle.
I've got a garage one that for apparently no reason trips occasionally from my damned Makita Cordless battery charger --- I mean like maybe twice a year ??
My neighbor had a few tripping after power was restored following power outages, I replace them and the new ones aren't tripping.
 

wishiknew

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As a long retired sparky, I do not recommend putting refrigerators or Freezers on GFI protected circuits. Code or no code, due to the potential of the problem you're experiencing. When I installed a freezer in the garage, I removed the GFCI receptacle that had per code been installed (By me) as required for garage outlets and replaced it with a conventional receptacle. When it's time to sell the house, I will re-install it in order for it to pass inspection.
With that written --- since the refrigerator and or freezer will no longer be protected for ground faults, I strongly suggest the following:

DO NOT go bare footed and fondle or attempt to open the refrigerator --- now, in reality humans have done this for a hundred years prior to any GRCI receptacles and somehow survived --- but even miniscule odds occasionally hit.

Added by Edit: I'd be remiss if I didn't include ---- Usually, GFCI receptacles are wired into circuits upstream (Nearer the source) to protect several other receptacles after them (Downstream). In other words, the GFCI receptacles have an "Line" (Input from source) and " Load " ( Protected output to downstream receptacles). This why often when an outside weatherproof receptacle trips, the GFCI is actually located in a nearby bathroom.
If you remove and replace that GFCI receptacle with a normal Non-GFCI version, you've not only eliminated the protection for that outlet, but all those on the same circuit downstream. The best solution, is to ONLY eliminate the GFCI for the specific receptacle the refrigerator or freezer is connected to, and you relocate the GCFI down stream of that one, so the others downstream remain protected.
This may not be something you're either capable of, or comfortable with --- this presents a problem, because most any licensed electrical contractors (Or electrician) won't risk the liability -- But perhaps a neighborhood handyman will ?? Perhaps you could be RDP coached through it ?

A year ago when I purchased and installed a new garage freezer, I noted in the instructions that they advised against having it plugged into a GFCI receptacle due to the possibility of nuisance tripping and spoiled food.
I agree with this also referig and freezers should NOT be on gfi circuits even if it requires installing a new seperate circuit from the panel.
 

Water Romper

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Holly crap, this is great advice. so it sounds like the "possible" fix is to replace the GFI with a standard outlet. There is no risk of water anywhere near the plug.
-OR- replace the old GFI with a new one ? Thanks everyone for the help and understanding my fear and respect for electricity.
 

Taboma

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I agree with this also referig and freezers should NOT be on gfi circuits even if it requires installing a new separate circuit from the panel.

The installation of a separate circuit would be the proper remedy for a licensed contractor. 👍
 

Taboma

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Holly crap, this is great advice. so it sounds like the "possible" fix is to replace the GFI with a standard outlet. There is no risk of water anywhere near the plug.
-OR- replace the old GFI with a new one ? Thanks everyone for the help and understanding my fear and respect for electricity.

Remember, it's not just water, bare concrete is a wonderful conductor ( Because it still retains sufficient moisture and mineral content) and doesn't have to be wet to be lethal. So the PROPER remedy is a new dedicated circuit, I must officially recommend that, even though that's not exactly how I did it. ;)
But, remember, if you go the easier route, I highly recommend re-protecting the remaining receptacles if all possible.
 

bilz

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You guys are a great help. I thought at one point you could have a single outlet receptacle, non gfi for a dedicated appliance. It's been a long time since I studied code. I think my book is 1992. Coming from a retired Signal Systems Electrician/ Supervisor.
 

Water Romper

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Thanks again to everyone. And YES, the power will be turned off and proper shoes/gloves/tools will be used when I "go for it" . I know this is small potatoes to many of you (replacing a simple outlet) but again, cant underestimate my respect for electricity...and this is simple 110 volts . Cant imagine what the lineman have to deal with :oops:
 

bilz

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120 can kill or seriously knock you on your ass. As an emergency signal electric ian I came across 120v signal conductors that had ant damage. It was pouring rain, with gloves on I managed to blow a 50 amp fuse and ended up on my ass. Don't ever lose your respect and caution.
 

Mandelon

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Fountains and sump pumps seem to hate GFCI outlets too. It seems that's where they should really be used... but they nuisance trip all the time.
 

DaveH

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I dont buy the assessment that motor load/spikes play havoc with GFI receptacles.

by code......pretty much every outlet in a kitchen today (and for probably the last 20+years) is GFI protected....fridges, garbage disposals, dish washers etc. yet you rarely hear of an issue with it.

i agree the first step os to replace your garage GFI the fridge runs on....... and i would bet 90% that's where your trouble is......if that doesn't fix it.....more then likely you have an internal wiring issue with your old fridge. it is my understanding a GFI trips with as little as 5 MA (milliamps) when there is a current flow to ground. deteriorated wiring, loose connections, corroded grounds etx internal in the fridge will do this.
 

The Prisoner

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Last year I went into the garage and smelled a burning smell. GFI was melting and the wall was hot. I called an electrician even though I probably could have done it myself because I wasn’t sure how compromised the wires in the wall were......to the OP be careful if you aren’t sure.....don’t want to see your post count end at 339! :p I think I paid around $100 but cheap for a pieceof mind and the family safety.
 

WaterMike

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I dont buy the assessment that motor load/spikes play havoc with GFI receptacles.

by code......pretty much every outlet in a kitchen today (and for probably the last 20+years) is GFI protected....fridges, garbage disposals, dish washers etc. yet you rarely hear of an issue with it.

i agree the first step os to replace your garage GFI the fridge runs on....... and i would bet 90% that's where your trouble is......if that doesn't fix it.....more then likely you have an internal wiring issue with your old fridge. it is my understanding a GFI trips with as little as 5 MA (milliamps) when there is a current flow to ground. deteriorated wiring, loose connections, corroded grounds etx internal in the fridge will do this.

Electronic circuits, even when new, have leakage current. Solid state switches, which I assume most appliances have, suffer from the same thing. Leakage current gets worse with age. Combine that with the reduced accuracy of a $15 GFCI rec control circuit, that's how it gets "weaker" as it ages.
 

bilz

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This year I have had 4 GFIs go bad. One at my mom's and 3 at my place. All well over 15 years old and mounted outside.
 

LHC Kirby

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My Havasu house had a dedicated outlet for a fridge.... no gfi. I was curious and pulled the plans and checked. ... I recently changed it from a single plug to a duplex as that is where I plug the stereo in ;)
 

Dalton

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Lots of interesting stuff in this thread but I think everyone went to deep, you got a used fridge...see what amps it’s pulling


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Javajoe

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Remember, it's not just water, bare concrete is a wonderful conductor ( Because it still retains sufficient moisture and mineral content) and doesn't have to be wet to be lethal. So the PROPER remedy is a new dedicated circuit, I must officially recommend that, even though that's not exactly how I did it. ;)
But, remember, if you go the easier route, I highly recommend re-protecting the remaining receptacles if all possible.
Isn’t that what rubber mats are for ? 😁
 

DLow

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Remember, it's not just water, bare concrete is a wonderful conductor ( Because it still retains sufficient moisture and mineral content) and doesn't have to be wet to be lethal. So the PROPER remedy is a new dedicated circuit, I must officially recommend that, even though that's not exactly how I did it. ;)
But, remember, if you go the easier route, I highly recommend re-protecting the remaining receptacles if all possible.
If you go with a dedicated run for the fridge, would a GFCI breaker work any better... meaning is the GFCI breaker as likely to have nuisance tripping issues? I believe they work the same internally, but just thinking out loud.
 

Mike Honcho

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First off get an extension cord and plug the fridge in elsewhere to see if it trips another circuit or breaker. If not then I would swap the gfi out if not comfortable then hire someone to do it. If it trips the next circuit I would assume something is up with the fridge and look at either repairing it or swapping it.

this may have been suggested I stopped reading after the third post.

good luck and let us know the outcome
 

Taboma

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My Havasu house had a dedicated outlet for a fridge.... no gfi. I was curious and pulled the plans and checked. ... I recently changed it from a single plug to a duplex as that is where I plug the stereo in ;)

I haven't read the latest code revision, If I recall, so long as it's not within 6' of the sink or considered a work counter receptacle, I do not believe it's required, even in our current state of "Super Nanny". The other way around it, is to install a single receptacle, not a duplex, thereby nothing else can share it and to my knowledge this exempts it.

This is from the Kenmore Freezer Manual and personally, none of my refrigerators or freezers are on GFCI circuits or receptacles and never will be, code be damned.
If they forced on a new home, I'd change it when I moved in. They can be sensitive and prone to tripping for various reasons. Personally, in some cases, where motors and compressors are involved I think it has to do with when in the Hertz frequency cycle the motor circuit is opened, in addition to possible induced harmonic currents.

Kenmore freezer elec.jpg
 

Water Romper

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Thanks to all who responded- Replaced the old GFI with a new "standard" heavy duty outlet (made sure the amps and volts matched the GFI) works like a charm. Fridge purring along just great.
Wish I could send everyone a cold one (from my good running garage fridge) as a token of thanks. I still hate doing electricity but it was a bit easier with the RDP support.
 

Taboma

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Thanks to all who responded- Replaced the old GFI with a new "standard" heavy duty outlet (made sure the amps and volts matched the GFI) works like a charm. Fridge purring along just great.
Wish I could send everyone a cold one (from my good running garage fridge) as a token of thanks. I still hate doing electricity but it was a bit easier with the RDP support.

If it was a feed through (Protecting other receptacles downstream), I'd suggest re-installing it at the next down stream location. Otherwise, great job and don't forget to replace it when you go to sell the house so it passes inspection. 👍
 

Christopher Lucero

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this looks solved.
JUST for argument's sake... compressor is working from t=0, so its unlikely its the compressor alone. The 2-3 hour time frame would point to a combination effect, something that is compressor +???

>>>maybe dehumidification/defroster kicking in at 2-3 hour mark...

water under the bridge though...its solved.
 

TimeBandit

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California code for a refrigerator in a kitchen:

Refrigeration equipment is also exempt from the GFCI requirements of Section 210-8. (they must have exempted refrigeration for a reason)

Garages:

Garages – The purpose of GFCI’s in garage is to provide a degree of safety for persons using portable hand held tools, gardening appliances, snow blowers, etc. that might be connected to receptacles in garages since they are often the location of the closest receptacle. Also, auto repair work and general workshop electrical tool usage are protected.

My garage freezer works great, no GFI outlets in the garage. My biggest worry is the damn aluminum wiring they used here in 1969.
 

Flying_Lavey

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I don't know what you all are saying with "electricity hates everyone". It loves running through me aparently. I've been bit by everything from 24 volt up to 460 (being a HVAC and refrigeration service tech required me to work with PLENTY of live circuits). Respect it, appreciate it, be as safe as possible (I find there is a point where too much safety equipment makes the work MORE dangerous as it hampers your dexterity and movement). One of the most important things I felt about working with live circuits is to always be slightly off balance in the way that if you get hit with that power, you naturally fall AWAY from the source. Like Taboma said, when you get zapped your muscles can lock up and you can't move so set up so gravity is your safety net. That definitely saved me when I got hit with 460, same for my cousin when he got hit with I as well.

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Christopher Lucero

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^^^an elec friend of mine had to get dental prosthetics after a 177kV exposure that made some of them fall out
 

Flying_Lavey

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this looks solved.
JUST for argument's sake... compressor is working from t=0, so its unlikely its the compressor alone. The 2-3 hour time frame would point to a combination effect, something that is compressor +???

>>>maybe dehumidification/defroster kicking in at 2-3 hour mark...

water under the bridge though...its solved.
Compressor cycles on and off. Different condition combinations can lead to different amp loads throughout the systems life span.defrost on all residential refrigerators (minus some REALLY high end units) use electric heat strips to defrost the coils if the system uses a heat source at all (some will just use a "time off" defrost where the compressor is locked out but the fan continues to run). I.e. the compressor never runs during defrost on 99.9% of residential refrigerators, and the dehumidification is done through the refrigeration cycle..

So, if there is an issue with the fridge that is causing rhe trip, it would likely show itself in standard operation as well and also be more frequent and regular in presenting themselves.

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Taboma

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California code for a refrigerator in a kitchen:

Refrigeration equipment is also exempt from the GFCI requirements of Section 210-8. (they must have exempted refrigeration for a reason)

Garages:

Garages – The purpose of GFCI’s in garage is to provide a degree of safety for persons using portable hand held tools, gardening appliances, snow blowers, etc. that might be connected to receptacles in garages since they are often the location of the closest receptacle. Also, auto repair work and general workshop electrical tool usage are protected.

My garage freezer works great, no GFI outlets in the garage. My biggest worry is the damn aluminum wiring they used here in 1969.

Certainly back in the Pre-GFCI day, electrical shock while using tools that leaked some current to ground, with your body somehow grounded did present a real hazard. I recall feeling it a bit through my arms and seeing drill bits sparking a bit while working.

And yes, unfortunately, there were deaths and of course preventing death and injury is what the NFPA / NEC's primary goal and purpose is. In the 60's my father sat on the code writing committees and is credited with co-writing NEC Chapter 8, grounding.

Also understand, that in addition to Underwriter's Lab engineers, also manufacturing engineers and reps sit on these code writing committees.
These industry reps are lobbying are of course in attendance to add to the commentary, add their research expertise, but it's no secret they also add a " Shock and Awe" lobbying effort when the opportunity presents.

Since my dad's ole metal cased 3/8" drill and old circular saw burned up in the wildfire, I can't think of a single electrical tool I own that's used anywhere I could receive a shock, that if it isn't cordless, it's double insulated.
My point is, I'd have to WORK at putting myself in a situation where I might possibly be shocked, I mean like standing barefoot in a puddle, holding an electrical tool, with a hose running over it kinda supreme effort.

I think in general, this whole we're going to protect you, like it or not, thing has gotten a bit out of hand and costing those of us who are not complete morons a whole lot of unnecessary expense. Look at the cost of residential breakers today because of all the required AFCI protective devices as just one example.

BUT, with having gotten the above safety blather off my chest --- You sir, Mr. Time Bandit, if your house has aluminum branch circuit conductors and they have not ALL been properly and expertly pigtailed, and your circuit breaker terminations haven't been cleaned, coated with Ideal Noalox (Anti-Oxidizer) and Re-Torqued --- Are sitting on a TIME bomb, not an IF type, but a WHEN type.
In my early apprenticeship days, during that brief period when fucking Alcoa and Reynolds successfully lobbied and got Aluminum branch circuit wiring approved, I was wiring homes in two areas of Orange County with that crap. Meanwhile on the home front dad was attending meetings daily doing everything he could to stop it's use.

When homes started to burn, they finally listened.

I could live my life just fine and without a care if I didn't have GFCI's or AFCI's, but I'd be sleepless if my house had unattended aluminum branch circuit wiring --- and that especially includes any electric dryer outlets !!!!!!!!

EDIT --- Just re-read and noticed you wrote 1969, Fountain Valley or Mission Viejo --- or possibly La Costa --- yup, although most places were phasing it back out by them, 66-67' were the years I was installing it.
 

Justfishing

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Get a 20 amp gfci. Also get a non contact voltage tester. A non contact lets you touch the insulation on a and will tell you if the wire is live.

Use the non contact tester to determine the "live" wire. Read the install instructions
 

wishiknew

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Get a 20 amp gfci. Also get a non contact voltage tester. A non contact lets you touch the insulation on a and will tell you if the wire is live.

Use the non contact tester to determine the "live" wire. Read the install instructions
Never have I liked a non contact type tester you dont know if they are on or off half of the time
 

Taboma

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Get a 20 amp gfci. Also get a non contact voltage tester. A non contact lets you touch the insulation on a and will tell you if the wire is live.

Use the non contact tester to determine the "live" wire. Read the install instructions

Non-contact testers are a great tool, I certainly appreciate mine. But like any tool, they need to be used properly, because they are not infallible. Step ONE, since your life might depend on it, non-contact testers should be initially verified on a circuit that is known to be energized. Most people don't do that, they just assume it's going to work.
There's other circuit conditions a non-contact tester won't reveal, it's a great asset in the hands of a qualified person.
 

just_floatin

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Maintenance Technician at a dairy production facility for 15 years in my younger days. I trust only my Fluke meter using one hand to test all circuits and LOTO the circuit before brandishing any tools to perform the work. 480 three phase motors in a wet environment everyday. Never got bit. Knocking on wood.
 

Taboma

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Never have I liked a non contact type tester you dont know if they are on or off half of the time

You and I are in agreement, they need to be confirmed on a known energized circuit prior to use.

Here's a high voltage tip for you -- you'll like this. Many years ago we were doing a 5KV primary re-pull at Beckman Instruments in Fullerton. We de-energized the breaker but I knew I didn't have a high voltage tester in order to confirm it. So prior to de-energizing the breaker, I taped my non-contact tick tracer to the end of a wooden broom handle and carefully inserted it into the switchgear --- oh boy, let me tell you, within a foot of the buss, that baby was screaming. :oops: After we de-energized I used the same method to confirm it was off, then of course after a couple of determinations that the tester was still functioning, I did the touch test --- "All clear, cut er loose".

Probably not OSHA approved, ya think. ;)
 

Taboma

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Maintenance Technician at a dairy production facility for 15 years in my younger days. I trust only my Fluke meter using one hand to test all circuits and LOTO the circuit before brandishing any tools to perform the work. 480 three phase motors in a wet environment everyday. Never got bit. Knocking on wood.

Most my work being industrial, my greatest safety concern with 460V was fear of being burned, much more so than shocked. The plasma arc generated by 460 when it faults is so intense it vaporizes copper bussing causing the air to become conductive, the flame can be horrific. I have one close friend who had 80% of his body burned through a 4" x 5" opening in a piece of switchgear when it faulted. Another who's face was burned plugging in a buss-duct disconnect live, because he didn't pre-megger the disconnect and it was faulty from the factory.

I had my turn in the burn barrel, but it just cost me some facial and scalp hair and minor burns, nothing serious and it was my own stupidity, I got careless. But only once, that warning shot made me far more careful going forward.
 

Joe mama

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Personally haven’t seen an exception for refrigeration in the NEC.
 

hallett21

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Surprised we didn’t end up at a fused disconnect with AFCI, GFCI and a surge protector. All tied to a dedicated panel [emoji16].

I wire fridges to dedicated 20 amp circuits no GFCI protection.

If there were a scenario that required it, I would install a blank GFCI in an accessible location that protected the fridge on a standard receptacle. Breaker[emoji654]️Blank GFCI[emoji654]️fridge. No detours lol.


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Taboma

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Surprised we didn’t end up at a fused disconnect with AFCI, GFCI and a surge protector. All tied to a dedicated panel [emoji16].

I wire fridges to dedicated 20 amp circuits no GFCI protection.

If there were a scenario that required it, I would install a blank GFCI in an accessible location that protected the fridge on a standard receptacle. Breaker[emoji654]️Blank GFCI[emoji654]️fridge. No detours lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know the old rules didn't exempt refrigerators, but since the receptacle didn't serve a counter area it wasn't required. But it's been ten years since I wired my house, and I know these "Safety Police " have been busy, not to mention the HUGE lobbying efforts by the manufacturers, for obvious reasons. I've read on the 2020 NEC, they're requiring them on dryers and some cases even ranges for fuck's sake.
So yup, the blank GFCI is one answer, then immediately after inspection, that make up will be slightly modified. My frig, will NOT be on a GFCI or AFCI or CIA :oops:
 

wishiknew

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I know the old rules didn't exempt refrigerators, but since the receptacle didn't serve a counter area it wasn't required. But it's been ten years since I wired my house, and I know these "Safety Police " have been busy, not to mention the HUGE lobbying efforts by the manufacturers, for obvious reasons. I've read on the 2020 NEC, they're requiring them on dryers and some cases even ranges for fuck's sake.
So yup, the blank GFCI is one answer, then immediately after inspection, that make up will be slightly modified. My frig, will NOT be on a GFCI or AFCI or CIA :oops:
NOT. Noted
 

highvoltagehands

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Refriderators and Garage door openers are notorious for tripping GFI’s. Some people never have problems with either and are just plain lucky, but neither equipment/appliance should be on GFI. Unless something has changed, code says “garage outlets installed under 8’ must be GFI protected unless its a dedicated circuit for a dedicated piece of equipment.”
-Receptacles used only for fridge/freezer are not required to be GFI and should be a single non-protected Receptacle, not a duplex receptacle. Most run a wire from GD opener receptacle to fridge receptacle because they’re not GFI protected, if not do the following:
-Any garage receptacles requiring GFI protection that are wired between breaker and fridge receptacle outlet should be wired to “Line” side only so only that receptacle is GFI protected and nothing else down line in the circuit.
-Install single receptacle for fridge.
-Then install a GFI receptacle on next outlet down line from the fridge receptacle to protect the rest of receptacles in the garage.
-Doing This may require multiple GFI’s but thats cheaper than running a new circuit or buying a fridge full of spoiled food.
Good luck Sparky....
 
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