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Need lift pump

mjc

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I am in need of s lift pump on my duramax RV. Got a c5500 chassis with a lmm duramax. I am getting the dreaded p0087 every once in a while pulling a grade. With the pump pulling from a fuel tank at least 25 feet from the engine I am looking for a good lift pump. Any recommendations from the diesel people here. This is my fsrt6diesel truck.
 

Chili Palmer

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A Fass or AirDog is what most of us deleted tuned guys are running. If you’re still running stock you won’t need a high output pump - check out Kennedy Diesel.
 

DoughBallin14

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Here you go. Had the exact same issue on a friends 5500 chassis rig with an lmm been running strong for 5 years and probably 50k miles now. Easy deal to set up. Just had to mount it and wire it up.
He also added a cat water separator/ filter set up before the pump just because he like filtration! Bought the filter head from napa for about 25 buck and a couple fittings and good to go. Ill see if i can find a picture or 2.

https://pureflowairdog.com/i-30497629-raptor-rp-4g-100-2001-2010-chevy-duramax.html
 

braindead

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I’ve had a FASS on my D-Max truck for about a year and it’s been flawless, I choose the FASS because you can run any Manufacturers filter you want and they have a cross reference chart on there website. Install was a little more difficult because I’ve got a 12‘ service bed that weighs a couple tons and trying to blindly disconnect the fuel line took a little while, you might have the same issue being a Moho, but keep trying and you’ll get it! Give the fuel lines a twist before attempting to remove, it loosens up any grit, rust or debris that may be lodged in there which prevents you from releasing the clips that hold the fuel lines on. Some wd40 will also help get out the grit after loosening.
 

DaveH

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that low rail pressure code is a known issue....even on the trucks that have the tank close to the engine.

I've had mine limp with the same code, towing a heavy load on a grade in summer heat. but never in cooler weather.

been doing some research on this because I've read threads where people put in a lift pump and it didn't fix the issue. there are also people that insist worn out injectors or fuel pump but have NO ANSWER as to why these items need replacing when the truck ONLY acts up in the summer under extreme conditions.

after getting into it, i have discovered temperature is the real culprit. your engine temp gauge is HIGHLY inaccurate. its sits at 210 but in reality can be anywhere from 175-215.

the auxiliary fan is also part of the problem. it is NOT controlled by the engine computer. it has its own internal temp sensor and only comes on when the fan itself gets hot enough. i suspect that as the fans age the temp sensor doesnt work as accurately. there is nothing you can do to bring the fan on sooner other then replacing the fan.

but by far the biggest thing to help control cooling issues is a proper service of the radiator cooling stack. you need to disassemble the stack and thoroughly clean tehAC condenser, intercooler and radiator.

you can see the actual temps by getting a code scanner and reading real time engine temp. keeping the engine cool will vastly help with this problem.
 

Duramax

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that low rail pressure code is a known issue....even on the trucks that have the tank close to the engine.

I've had mine limp with the same code, towing a heavy load on a grade in summer heat. but never in cooler weather.

been doing some research on this because I've read threads where people put in a lift pump and it didn't fix the issue. there are also people that insist worn out injectors or fuel pump but have NO ANSWER as to why these items need replacing when the truck ONLY acts up in the summer under extreme conditions.

after getting into it, i have discovered temperature is the real culprit. your engine temp gauge is HIGHLY inaccurate. its sits at 210 but in reality can be anywhere from 175-215.

the auxiliary fan is also part of the problem. it is NOT controlled by the engine computer. it has its own internal temp sensor and only comes on when the fan itself gets hot enough. i suspect that as the fans age the temp sensor doesnt work as accurately. there is nothing you can do to bring the fan on sooner other then replacing the fan.

but by far the biggest thing to help control cooling issues is a proper service of the radiator cooling stack. you need to disassemble the stack and thoroughly clean tehAC condenser, intercooler and radiator.

you can see the actual temps by getting a code scanner and reading real time engine temp. keeping the engine cool will vastly help with this problem.
Great info here! I will service my cooling stack this winter. Pulling temps off of my Edge monitor, when pulling a grade with boat, it will get to 228, then fan kicks on and it sits at 218-219. Other than that, pulling the boat in summer, it runs right around 198. I never had any codes, but I ended up going with the FASS Titanium lift pump and it has been fantastic.
One other thing, and least on the 2006 trucks. The transmission cooler has a lot of its air blocked by the grille/bumper. I purchased a Fleece kit that comes with heavy duty, black braided lines for the cooler itself, and lowers the cooler into the air stream. That mod alone has dropped my tranny temps almost 25 degrees, and stops those nasty stock cooler lines from leaking.
 

DaveH

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Great info here! I will service my cooling stack this winter. Pulling temps off of my Edge monitor, when pulling a grade with boat, it will get to 228, then fan kicks on and it sits at 218-219. Other than that, pulling the boat in summer, it runs right around 198. I never had any codes, but I ended up going with the FASS Titanium lift pump and it has been fantastic.
One other thing, and least on the 2006 trucks. The transmission cooler has a lot of its air blocked by the grille/bumper. I purchased a Fleece kit that comes with heavy duty, black braided lines for the cooler itself, and lowers the cooler into the air stream. That mod alone has dropped my tranny temps almost 25 degrees, and stops those nasty stock cooler lines from leaking.
fuel temp also tells you a lot. there is a fuel cooler on these trucks. need to keep fuel temps under 150. its part of the reason the low fuel level light comes on so soon. the factory is using the gas tank as a cooling reservoir.

down shifting and keeping RPM around 2100 goes a long way to lower coolant temps.
 

MisplacedSooner

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I went with a fass on my LMM. Fuel pump blew up on my way to the Black Hills pulling my RZR. Luckily since its a LMM motor, I didn't have to replace the fuel rail etc. I was running my tuner on level 3
 

robby dmax

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I run the air dog 4g on my Duramax works fantastic.
I went with air dog vs the fass as I like the mounting system on the air dog better
Seems like the air dog is tucked up a little higher than the fass.
Both do the same thing so I would look and see who has them at the best deal.
Just my 2cents.
There is a guy on YouTube truckmaster go and look at a few videos he did on the two lift pumps as he has both of them
 

COCA COLA COWBOY

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I had a Fass on my Duramax and it worked well, but I hear the AirDog is just as good.
 

Duramax

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fuel temp also tells you a lot. there is a fuel cooler on these trucks. need to keep fuel temps under 150. its part of the reason the low fuel level light comes on so soon. the factory is using the gas tank as a cooling reservoir.

down shifting and keeping RPM around 2100 goes a long way to lower coolant temps.
More great stuff. Ok, I will keep an eye on my fuel temp.
 
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