Need some schooling (again) - Reverse cable adjustment

[Water Romper]

Not sure if I am explaining this right, (1995- Merc 200 BM, stock) Reverse seems to be "slipping: doesn't "grab" like it used to. When I launched a few weeks ago , I would put it in reverse, boat would chug just fine and I could maneuver in reverse great, last weekend, put it in reverse and had to give it a bit of throttle just to get it to move. Forward appears to be fine.
Going to change the lower gear oil today to see if I see any metal. Otherwise, your thoughts- Simple cable adjustment or am I screwed and the lower is either going or gone?
Only thing "new" is the impeller was replaced, no signs of anything odd. Water "pee's" fine, seemed to run just fine.

Also, when the boat is out of water, NOT RUNNING, if I put it in gear, should the prop spin freely (either forward or reverse) or should I hear or feel resistance? Can I adjust the cable going this route- adjust, put in reverse, see if prop "grabs" or ? Might seem elementary to you OB Guru's but I figure even if its a dumb question, it will help me learn.

Thanks in advance

 

[Ragged Edge]

When you put it in reverse gear out of the water the prop should spin in reverse direction with a clicking sound, should not spin forward direction at all. Hopefully a cable adjustment will fix it, if not the clutch dog is wearing out and it's time for a lower rebuild. When the engine is running shifting into forward or reverse should be done quickly and firmly. If you go slow and get a ratcheting sound you are damaging the clutch dog, grinding it away.

 

[Water Romper]

Lower unit oil is clean and still a tad "blue" in color, no metal or water at all. (smells like crap though)
I did what you suggested, put it in reverse (not running) the prop "clicks" when I turn it in reverse, will NOT move going forward. I put it in forward, clicks going forward, will not spin in reverse. I hope this is a good thing. Not sure why I experienced what I did last weekend, maybe I didn't shift into reverse firmly, I am always being extra cautious around docks etc. maybe a bit to "soft on the shift"
Regarding the "Cultch Dog" and lower re-build- any idea what somthing like this may cost? I think I will have this done anyway as I have no idea how bad it was abused by the previous owner. I doubt this is somthing I will do, if its like a transmission or differential, HELL NO. Thanks for the advice and tips!!

 

[stingray11]

Lower unit oil is clean and still a tad "blue" in color, no metal or water at all. (smells like crap though)
I did what you suggested, put it in reverse (not running) the prop "clicks" when I turn it in reverse, will NOT move going forward. I put it in forward, clicks going forward, will not spin in reverse. I hope this is a good thing. Not sure why I experienced what I did last weekend, maybe I didn't shift into reverse firmly, I am always being extra cautious around docks etc. maybe a bit to "soft on the shift"
Regarding the "Cultch Dog" and lower re-build- any idea what somthing like this may cost? I think I will have this done anyway as I have no idea how bad it was abused by the previous owner. I doubt this is somthing I will do, if its like a transmission or differential, HELL NO. Thanks for the advice and tips!!

Make sure you turn the propeller a little bit while you're shifting if the motor is not running you could end up on top of the clutch dog and not shift into gear. And that will make it impossible to shift. Best way to set up the shift cable is to remove it, take your hand, confirm you are in neutral By moving the shift arm back-and-forth, then adjust the cable to drop over the stud.

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[Ragged Edge]

Lower unit oil is clean and still a tad "blue" in color, no metal or water at all. (smells like crap though)
I did what you suggested, put it in reverse (not running) the prop "clicks" when I turn it in reverse, will NOT move going forward. I put it in forward, clicks going forward, will not spin in reverse. I hope this is a good thing. Not sure why I experienced what I did last weekend, maybe I didn't shift into reverse firmly, I am always being extra cautious around docks etc. maybe a bit to "soft on the shift"
Regarding the "Cultch Dog" and lower re-build- any idea what somthing like this may cost? I think I will have this done anyway as I have no idea how bad it was abused by the previous owner. I doubt this is somthing I will do, if its like a transmission or differential, HELL NO. Thanks for the advice and tips!!

Ha, used gear oil is stinky, you should take a wif of well past it's useful life gear oil that been burnt (overheated). That will stick in your sinus's for awhile. A lower rebuild for an outboard should not be crazy expensive but the cost will depend entirely on what needs to be replaced, if anything, and who is doing the rebuild. Find a local shop and start talking to them, spend some time on the internet with the serial number from your engine and search for parts to get an idea on what parts might cost.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Lower unit oil is clean and still a tad "blue" in color, no metal or water at all. (smells like crap though)
I did what you suggested, put it in reverse (not running) the prop "clicks" when I turn it in reverse, will NOT move going forward. I put it in forward, clicks going forward, will not spin in reverse. I hope this is a good thing. Not sure why I experienced what I did last weekend, maybe I didn't shift into reverse firmly, I am always being extra cautious around docks etc. maybe a bit to "soft on the shift"
Regarding the "Cultch Dog" and lower re-build- any idea what somthing like this may cost? I think I will have this done anyway as I have no idea how bad it was abused by the previous owner. I doubt this is somthing I will do, if its like a transmission or differential, HELL NO. Thanks for the advice and tips!!

Another possibility is the cable could have stretched which makes adjustment so much more fun as well.

 

[stingray11]

Another possibility is the cable could have stretched which makes adjustment so much more fun as well.

I doubt that!

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[Flying_Lavey]

I doubt that!

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The cables absolutely do stretch over time. I've had to replace both mine and my uncle for the same reason. The old cables had between 1/4 and 5/8 of an inch more throw than the old ones.

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[stingray11]

The cables absolutely do stretch over time. I've had to replace both mine and my uncle for the same reason. The old cables had between 1/4 and 5/8 of an inch more throw than the old ones.

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The Inner wire on a controlled cable is solid wire basically piano wire it will not stretch. What can happen is the outer jacket,inside the cable, can get worn inside and outside bends where the cable makes a turn. And every turn will cause slop in the control cable. Back and forth.This is why you should install control cables with as few bends as possible..
Every run they make on a new batch of cables is not going to be exact length because they are adjustable.

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[Water Romper]

Lower unit made a terrible grinding noise with bad vibration when launching last weekend. Was only put in gear to pull off trailer and tie up at dock. Shut er' down and put it back on the trailer and went home. Looking for a repair/service shop to look at the lower and give me an estimate.
Looked on the internet for parts pricing, looks like in the ball park of 300-400 dollars (parts only) Also looked at a few videos to see if this is somthing I can do, I think its over my head ability wise- looks like a mini differential, ugh, gear clusters and me don't mix.

 

[ChrisV]

Kyle at WOTM can take care of it. He's located in San Diego I believe.

 

[Water Romper]

I'm in Southern Idaho. 1st quote: $1500.00, damn. Going to look around some more

 

[stingray11]

Brand new SEI lower unit for $925. As long as you are not beating it or racing it or surfacing it they work fine. No fault warranty too.

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[Water Romper]

Brand new SEI lower unit for $925. As long as you are not beating it or racing it or surfacing it they work fine. No fault warranty too.

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Why would a whole lower unit cost less than just replacing the few gears, bearing and clutch dog? (of course, this is coming from a novice who has never replaced these things) With that said, I am dead in the water anyways, maybe I will make an attempt to replace the lower by myself. Where are you located? Your offer for the lower may be a solution.

 

[stingray11]

Why would a whole lower unit cost less than just replacing the few gears, bearing and clutch dog? (of course, this is coming from a novice who has never replaced these things) With that said, I am dead in the water anyways, maybe I will make an attempt to replace the lower by myself. Where are you located? Your offer for the lower may be a solution.

Because they are not genuine Mercury parts they are aftermarket parts they use to build there new lower units. I'm a retired marine businessman but whenever we did a insurance claim for a lower unit the insurance companies insisted we buy SEI lower units to replace the damaged customer lower unit so give them a call if you are interested. Google SEI lower unit.

To answer your question I'm in PA

If you think about it Mercury Marine has somebody make a gear for them they buy it from them ,for Arguments sake let's just say they Jack the price up a 100% to sell to their dealer then their dealer jacks the price up a 100% to sell to the consumer so you get my drift.
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[Water Romper]

So if i purchased the parts from Mercury direct, I would get genuine Merc parts but at a crazy high price AND I would have to do the install myself, which I have neve done.
But to your point, the aftermarket lower including EVERYTHING is ready to go, just bolt back on the motor throw the prop on, add the gear oil and its ready to go AND it has a warranty. hmm, how much is the extra $$ worth for a after market that someone built that knows what they are doing...
No racing here, not sure what "surfacing" means and "beating" on it? well, if going fast and pulling tubers/ skiers etc all day, is considered "beating" then I may be in trouble but i hit somthing, then that's a different story, can't expect the lower to take an impact.

Apricate the help and feed back. I have watched several videos on the "tube" and the remove and replace does not seem that difficult, but again, I could be opening a can of worms. oh what decisions we have to make in life

Follow-up
So I called SEI- great customer service, the poor gal on the line answered all my questions etc. I have to pull my old/damaged lower to get them some measurements for the right fit etc (this will be easy) looks like about a grand, delivered to Boise, ID. All new seals, guts (gears, clutch dog, bearings etc) new prop Shaft and new drive line all in a new/refurbished-tested lower unit , 3 year warranty. Just bolt back on, add the gear oil, put on the prop and follow the "break in" directions. I priced JUST the gears and clutch it was $500.00 so I am pretty sure i know what direction I am going. THANKS AGAIN for the advise!!

BTW- What do I do with the old unit? casing is mint, don't know yet about the inside. Do I trade it in for a discount with SEI? cant imagine a big market for a non-operating one.