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New 1" Sealed Bearing Prop Shaft Log Seal

dekman

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This is after first 20 min run. Is this normal amount of intial goop that comes out? Or did I over grease it............ Only couple drops of water....much better! Thanks for your help......Rob
 

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Racey

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Probably over greased. DiMarco, do you recommend putting a dab of permatex perfect seal between the shaft and bearing race to prevent it from corroding, and also to help keep the shaft and inner race spinning together and not rubbing on each other and wearing the shaft?

Nice Part BTW :thumbsup
 

racerden

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This is after first 20 min run. Is this normal amount of intial goop that comes out? Or did I over grease it............ Only couple drops of water....much better! Thanks for your help......Rob
Over greased for sure. With 2 seasons of racing & lots of practice on the same seal, I learned that Phil's product doesn't require packing it "until the grease gun locks up". I can easily go a weekend of racing without touching it. What I have figured out is to hit the zerk with a full pump or so when you put the boat away. That way everything settles and it disperses most of the captured water. Hope it helps.
DV
 
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steveo143

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I put a wipe of RTV on the outside of the bearing where water can get to it, seems to help. Phil says you can't blow the seal by overgreasing. I have never had one that slid on the shaft easily, but if I did I would use some Loctite green on the shaft.
 
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DiMarco21

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Looks like grease just working its way out of the front. As the prop shaft / bearing turns the grease gets warm and gets runny. I sure would like to see someone over grease and not enough.

That is correct you can't hurt the seal from greasing, it will only push thru the grease seal to the outside of the boat. The grease seal will not be damaged by doing this.

I would not use green Loctite on the bearing to the shaft. It is machined to be a light slip fit and the bearing should move freely on its own.

Hope that helps. :)
 

dekman

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Went out this AM. Ran for 20 min at 4-5000 rpm. Did not add grease since last time. Should I expect this amount of goop/poop each time? How do I know when to add more grease? Thanks.......
 

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DiMarco21

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Hi Robert,

Sorry just saw your post. Sometimes I will get the same thing.

When I tell everyone you cannot hurt the seal by over greasing, that means the grease cup seal cannot be damaged by too much grease being forced in the wrong direction against a typical grease cup seal in non bearing prop shaft log seal. When guys say they have blown out the seal in the prop/rudder or cav seal, it is due to grease getting pushed by a one-way directional cup seal and folding over the lip of the seal. My seals you cannot hurt. The excess grease goes past the front of the bearing or past the grease cup seal; either way will not hurt my seals.

Maybe like stated in prior posts just lighten up on the greasing a little bit and monitor your progress.

Hope that helps answer your question, Phil
 

dekman

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OK so I won't add any more grease till the oozing stops.......... and then only a gentile squirt...........
Thanks Phil.........
 

DiMarco21

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OK so I won't add any more grease till the oozing stops.......... and then only a gentile squirt...........
Thanks Phil.........
Sounds good, just don't let it run dry. Thanks again Robert, Phil
 

DiMarco21

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In stock 1" & 1 1/8" rudder and prop shaft seals along with my 1" & 1 1/4" cav. rod seals. Thanks, Phil
 
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DiMarco21

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All in stock:

1" and 1 1/8" billet rudder boxes.

1" and 1 1/8" billet prop shaft seals.

1" and 1 1/4" billet cav rod seals.

Lemme know, Thanks. :D
 

DiMarco21

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Got a few requests to make up some 1" Billet Rudder Box with a round base flange.

Same features as my square flange but with a 4 1/16" diameter round flange.

Thanks, Phil

1.00_round_rudderfpb.jpg
 

alohajeff

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My prop and rudder seals have been working awesome all summer... no more water in the boat after extended use! I've left the boat in overnight a few times and it's dry the next day. I shoot some grease in there every now and again and that's it. I am really digging this setup. It's one of those things that gets more bitchin' as the time goes on. No more dickin' around with rope seals, a quarter turn here, a cotter pin there... this is the setup!

Thanks!

Jeff
 

DiMarco21

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My prop and rudder seals have been working awesome all summer... no more water in the boat after extended use! I've left the boat in overnight a few times and it's dry the next day. I shoot some grease in there every now and again and that's it. I am really digging this setup. It's one of those things that gets more bitchin' as the time goes on. No more dickin' around with rope seals, a quarter turn here, a cotter pin there... this is the setup!

Thanks!

Jeff
Thank you very much Jeff. :thumbsup

I was trying to set up a cav plate for a buddy with a straight edge and a tape measure and had a rough time doing it. There's got to be and easier way.

I made up a gauge that is made from 6061 Aluminum. It is 6" long and 1/2" wide. There are 12 steps in at 1/16" increments, starting at 1/16" and ending at 3/4" tall.

$35. each plus shipping. Thanks for the space RD. :thumbsup

cav gage (2)4pb.jpg
 

DiMarco21

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V-Drive 1" Rudder Quadrants

Direct replacement for your standard rudder quadrant.

Made from 6061-T6 aluminum. Standard 1" bore for 1" rudders, 1/4" keyway, 3/8" clamp hole for rudder, Top cable clamp features two milled in scallops to help "bite" into the standard 3/16" cable. Top clamp has a built in clearance when tightened onto steering cable it will be flush with the top surface. Supplied with 2x 1/4" corrosion resistance grade 8 bolts that screws into to 2 heli-coiled holes installed into the quadrant. Also supplied will be 2x 1/4"-20 lock nuts for safety.

Price is $209.00 + shipping.

Any questions please feel free to PM or call/text me at (925) 323-9093. Thank you, Phil

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racerden

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V-Drive 1" Rudder Quadrants

Direct replacement for your standard rudder quadrant.

Made from 6061-T6 aluminum. Standard 1" bore for 1" rudders, 1/4" keyway, 3/8" clamp hole for rudder, Top cable clamp features two milled in scallops to help "bite" into the standard 3/16" cable. Top clamp has a built in clearance when tightened onto steering cable it will be flush with the top surface. Supplied with 2x 1/4" corrosion resistance grade 8 bolts that screws into to 2 heli-coiled holes installed into the quadrant. Also supplied will be 2x 1/4"-20 lock nuts for safety.

Price is $209.00 + shipping.

Any questions please feel free to PM or call/text me at (925) 323-9093. Thank you, Phil

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Nice piece Phil. Anything slated for tiller arms (with s/s inserts)?
 

Brazos River Rat

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I received mine from Phil a couple weeks ago . Very nice piece . It stopped my water leaks and it looks killer too . Thanks again Phil ..
 

DiMarco21

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Nice piece Phil. Anything slated for tiller arms (with s/s inserts)?
Hi Denny, Nothing for tiller arms yet. I made a stainless one for my cruiser years ago. We have a few new projects coming up next month. Thanks, Phil


I received mine from Phil a couple weeks ago . Very nice piece . It stopped my water leaks and it looks killer too . Thanks again Phil ..
Thanks Billy!!!! Glad ya like it. Remember to keep it greased. Thanks again, Phil
 

DiMarco21

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Now offering 100% stainless steel T-Bolt clamps and hose while replacing your prop shaft seal. :thumbup:

2.25 clamp.JPG
 

DiMarco21

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Trying to cut down the traffic through RD. Thanks again Dave!!!

My info :
Phil Scherzer
D21 Enterprises
925-323-9093

website : http://d21ent.com/
 
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