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new boat owner questions about bravo 1 x drive

Dirty Daytona

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I bought a 2006 27 Daytona at the end of last season and it's my first boat. It has a bone stock 496 HO with 190 hours and a bravo 1 x drive. My question is what is the difference between a bravo 1 drive and a bravo 1 x drive? The boat runs great and I plan on running this engine/drive combo bone stock for at least 2-3 years before I upgrade to bigger power and drive. Is there anything I should do besides baby this thing out of the hole to preserve the drive? The motor should run a long time as long as I maintain it and keep it stock correct?
 

ONE-A-DAY

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I bought a 2006 27 Daytona at the end of last season and it's my first boat. It has a bone stock 496 HO with 190 hours and a bravo 1 x drive. My question is what is the difference between a bravo 1 drive and a bravo 1 x drive? The boat runs great and I plan on running this engine/drive combo bone stock for at least 2-3 years before I upgrade to bigger power and drive. Is there anything I should do besides baby this thing out of the hole to preserve the drive? The motor should run a long time as long as I maintain it and keep it stock correct?

With a 496 the bravo x is more than adequate, you really won’t run into any issues unless you drive it like a complete dickhead. Most 496’s are mated to the base bravo, the x is slightly beefier. If you’re going to re-power, trust me, it’s much more cost-effective just to sell the boat and buy another one with the power you want.

To take my 26 from a 496 to a blown 509 (71 to 117 mph) it was close to $45,000 after You figure in the cost of the engine, the new drive, the new steering, all of the new rigging, etc. I would’ve been much better off to sell the boat and put the $45,000 towards a newer and faster one.
 

Dirty Daytona

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Thanks for your reply and information. For now the boat runs plenty fast, looks great and I just installed a huge stereo. I will have to weigh the resale value in a couple of years and decide what to do as far as repowering. I know one thing, I won’t throw any money at the 496 to try and make it faster. It is what it is and I knew that when I bought it. It runs 67 mph and that’s plenty fast until I really learn how to drive it well. Thanks again for the reply.
 

Havasu blue label

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That set is perfect always on the water not in the shop speed is fun till your getting towed in again you should be pushing 70.
 

Dirty Daytona

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Yes I did research before I bought the boat and my setup is perfect for a first boat. It will run all the time every time and it’s faster than any broke down boat lol. I was just wondering about the differences in the drives for my information. Thanks
 

Dirty Daytona

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Dirty Daytona

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This winter I had the windshields replaced with smoked and lower profile and they look way better.
 

Dirty Daytona

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I prefer solid color boats. I was looking at a couple builders doing a new boat for me but I decided to save $60,000 and buy used. I wanted to do a solid orange boat if I had one built but I’m happy with my purchase.
 

Dirty Daytona

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Not to sound stupid but who is Jim Foley? I’m a motorcycle guy so I don’t know all the boat industry names.
 

Dirty Daytona

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My winter project lol!!! Windshields, new solid orange Bimini top, big stereo, and 3 house batteries and one starting battery. The boat will probably on do like 60 now!!!
 

Dirty Daytona

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Oh yeah and I had the engine cover pad redone in all white. I thought the tribal pattern looked stupid on the hatch cover
 

robby dmax

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With a 496 the bravo x is more than adequate, you really won’t run into any issues unless you drive it like a complete dickhead. Most 496’s are mated to the base bravo, the x is slightly beefier. If you’re going to re-power, trust me, it’s much more cost-effective just to sell the boat and buy another one with the power you want.

To take my 26 from a 496 to a blown 509 (71 to 117 mph) it was close to $45,000 after You figure in the cost of the engine, the new drive, the new steering, all of the new rigging, etc. I would’ve been much better off to sell the boat and put the $45,000 towards a newer and faster one.

I some what disagree with this to a point yes and no..yes you are correct on the cost as it is expensive.. the part I disagree with is you are taking a risk of buying a problem boat..if you do it yourself or have it done you know what has been done to the boat and should be turn key for years to play.
Just my 2cents
 

02HoWaRd26

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Pull the diversion plates out of the manifolds, sounds better as well feels better in low mid range.
That boat should run all of 70 and run all day at that b
 

Dirty Daytona

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Pull the diversion plates out of the manifolds, sounds better as well feels better in low mid range.
That boat should run all of 70 and run all day at that b
The boat has a gps speedo and with 3 adults and 3 kids and 2 full gas tanks it ran 67. Please explain about the diversion plates. Thanks
 

02HoWaRd26

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It’s an emmisions as well way to stop moisture from getting into the manifolds on down. But it’s a plate between manifold and riser that reduces the exhaust to 2.65” before it enters the riser. Two gaskets for 20$ and 35 minutes later it’ll breath way better sound a little tougher and actually gives some ass dyno power in the bottom to midrange.
 

Dirty Daytona

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Thanks for the info. I did a bunch of research after you told me that and I’m going to do it this weekend. How about the resonators? Will removing those do anything for me?
 

Runs2rch

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Leave the turbulators in. Not worth messing with it for a small gain noticed on a dyno.
 

Dirty Daytona

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Here are my new windshields and Bimini top. I think it looks way better.
 

Dirty Daytona

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So after all the talk about whether or not to take out the turbulators I decided to take them out. Well the decision was made for me because they were already removed.....thanks for all the input on the subject guys!!!!
 
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