New build Eliminator 27 Speedster

[79 HUSTLER]

Lol you really don’t like them


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Usually happens after you're fired the first week for not knowing shit like you claim too.

 

[lbhsbz]

Good idea. Good call on the head bolts.

It definitely gets worse after it gets hot. If I cruise its seems ok. But shit goes south quickly after things warm up and it gets pushed a bit.

Block is a DART Big M.

Also I need to rethink my redneck pressure tester. I can only get 15 lbs in it but not more. But that might be the coupler I am using.

Big M should have blind head bolt holes...so scratch that theory...unless they're not blind like they should be.

Thinking about your 15psi....we obviously have a leak. I'd keep increasing it until you see the leak. We already know something is gonna need attention, might as well raise the pressure until it becomes painfully obvious what that is.

Post more pictures about how you rigged up your pressure tester and what all you blocked off to seal things up...might be a fault in the test itself

 

[DaveC]

Here is what I did. Regulator with gauge is on the hose in. I blocked the hose out.

It holds at 15 psi. I cannot add more psi for some reason after I unhook the coupler but that’s because I limited the line pressure. I will try to increase the line pressure a bit and see if I can increase the pressure into the block a bit.

Otherwise I might have to make up another way to pump air into the system with a schrader valve.

 

[lbhsbz]

View attachment 662389 View attachment 662388 Here is what I did. Regulator with gauge is on the hose in. I blocked the hose out.

It holds at 15 psi. I cannot add more psi for some reason after I unhook the coupler but that’s because I limited the line pressure. I will try to increase the line pressure a bit and see if I can increase the pressure into the block a bit.

Otherwise I might have to make up another way to pump air into the system with a schrader valve.

Looks OK. Typically those regulators have an arrow on them...make sure we're going in the correct direction. Also, I'd consider adding a ball valve to close things off before the line is disconnected

 

[OC Mike]

Such a nice build and so much torment.
Sincerely hope you get it worked out soon.

 

[DaveC]

I was wondering about that. I have the arrow pointed away from the engine. Not sure that’s right

It sealed up pretty good. I used soapy water to test fittings

Looks OK. Typically those regulators have an arrow on them...make sure we're going in the correct direction. Also, I'd consider adding a ball valve to close things off before the line is disconnected

 

[lbhsbz]

I was wondering about that. I have the arrow pointed away from the engine. Not sure that’s right

It sealed up pretty good. I used soapy water to test fittings

Bingo...the test gave you a false positive because it's set up wrong. You were isolating 15psi between the regulator and the "inlet" fitting.

Flip it around...arrow should point towards engine.

Thread the regulator directly into to your adapter assembly, with the arrow pointed towards the engine. Put a ball valve on the other side of the regulator, with a male air fitting into the ball valve. I'm not sure I'd trust the gauge on the regulator...you might rig another gauge between the regulator and the engine.

Hook up your air BEFORE you clamp the hose around the pipe...just let the air blow out of the end while you adjust your regulator so that very little air comes out. Then hook it all up, ball valve open, and turn the regulator knob clockwise until pressure rises to 15psi (or 20 or whatever)...then close the ball valve and disconnect your air. Then wait.

 

[DaveC]

Will do. Good idea. Thanks. I have another larger, better regulator and gauge I can also use just to be sure.

Something didn't seem right about that regulator. No wonder it didn't lose pressure.

When I did the initial test I was pressed for time and could not figure out which way to turn the regulator. Now that I am revisiting this stuff with more time something didn't seem right about that regulator direction. I was thinking in terms of line pressure and should have been the opposite. I am testing the line in as this would be the same as hooking up an air line to the tank. I need to test the tank direction which is opposite. (DUH)

Although the way I have it hooked up if the pressure leaks out the line and tank will be empty? No?

I also tested the oil cooler the same way. Guess I need to do both again. FML

I am just an accountant so I have enough knowledge to be dangerous. LOL

Bingo...the test gave you a false positive because it's set up wrong. You were isolating 15psi between the regulator and the "inlet" fitting.

Flip it around...arrow should point towards engine.

Thread the regulator directly into to your adapter assembly, with the arrow pointed towards the engine. Put a ball valve on the other side of the regulator, with a male air fitting into the ball valve. I'm not sure I'd trust the gauge on the regulator...you might rig another gauge between the regulator and the engine.

Hook up your air BEFORE you clamp the hose around the pipe...just let the air blow out of the end while you adjust your regulator so that very little air comes out. Then hook it all up, ball valve open, and turn the regulator knob clockwise until pressure rises to 15psi (or 20 or whatever)...then close the ball valve and disconnect your air. Then wait.

 

[lbhsbz]

Will do. Good idea. Thanks. I have another larger, better regulator and gauge I can also use just to be sure.

Something didn't seem right about that regulator. No wonder it didn't lose pressure.

When I did the initial test I was pressed for time and could not figure out which way to turn the regulator. Now that I am revisiting this stuff with more time something didn't seem right about that regulator direction. I was thinking in terms of line pressure and should have been the opposite. I am testing the line in as this would be the same as hooking up an air line to the tank. I need to test the tank direction which is opposite. (DUH)

Although the way I have it hooked up if the pressure leaks out the line and tank will be empty? No?

I also tested the oil cooler the same way. Guess I need to do both again. FML

I am just an accountant so I have enough knowledge to be dangerous. LOL

Assuming you are introducing air from the compressor to the female fitting shown on the regulator, then as soon as the air line is disconnected via that quick release fitting, the female should seal (but probably won't, and there will be enough air loss during the disconnection to screw up the readings.

That's why I'd rather have it the other way around...introduce air, set your pressure, hook it all up to pressurize the system to your desired pressure, then close the ball valve, then disconnect the supply line.

 

[daveb1]

Sorry for your problems. I have built and repaired over 100 bbc for marine use, mostly SC and over 510 ci.
I may be able to offer advice. Have helped many engine builders over the years. Also have a new 28 Speedster.

Call or text me 661.645.3988 daveb1

 

[lake p.a.l.]

Sorry for your problems. I have built and repaired over 100 bbc for marine use, mostly SC and over 510 ci.
I may be able to offer advice. Have helped many engine builders over the years. Also have a new 28 Speedster.

Call or text me 661.645.3988 daveb1

That's a very generous offer. It's great to see people helping other people these days.

 

[DaveC]

More redneck engineering with The necessary adjustments. Turned it around and put a ball valve in.

We shall see.

Already found milkshake in the cooler. Gonna test the oil cooler next

 

[n2otoofast4u]

View attachment 662805 More redneck engineering with The necessary adjustments. Turned it around and put a ball valve in.

We shall see.

Already found milkshake in the cooler. Gonna test the oil cooler next

Take a little soapy water and spray or smear the joints on your test rig to be sure that's all sealed....... hope you can get it figured out without too much brain damage!

 

[OC Mike]

Wouldn’t it be nice if it was the cooler.

 

[DaveC]

You read my mind. I did that first. I figured something on that deal had to leak

Take a little soapy water and spray or smear the joints on your test rig to be sure that's all sealed....... hope you can get it figured out without too much brain damage!

 

[DaveC]

I can’t figure out what’s gonna on with this thing. Time to bring in the pros.

Coincidentally I am headed to LA tomorrow so I am dropping it off at Teague.

Hopefully they can figure it out.

 

[Outdrive1]

I can’t figure out what’s gonna on with this thing. Time to bring in the pros.

Coincidentally I am headed to LA tomorrow so I am dropping it off at Teague.

Hopefully they can figure it out.

Teague will sort it out. [emoji106]

What block is it? Just wondering.


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[ArizonaKevin]

Teague will sort it out. [emoji106]

What block is it? Just wondering.


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I believe he said Dart m

 

[DaveC]

Dart Big M with Brodix heads

It looks nice at least

Teague will sort it out. [emoji106]

What block is it? Just wondering.


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[Outdrive1]

Dart Big M with Brodix heads

It looks nice at least

I’m sure it will be fine.


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[DaveC]

Oh sure. After I spend another $8 grand to fix it.

I’m sure it will be fine.


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[DaveC]

FML. I thought this was gonna be easy like a head gasket. Nope

The final verdict was two bad exhaust valves and two dead cylinders. We don’t have a cause yet since they are tearing down the motor now.

I will get more info soon.

This ought to be interesting

 

[jbird]

Damn it! I hope for some good news for you.

 

[lake p.a.l.]

So very sorry to hear this news for you & your family.

 

[Meaney77]

Sux to hear... Not trying to stir the pot or anything but now that you know what is wrong with it have you contacted the builder and informed him of the findings? Maybe you both can come to a common ground on repair costs?

 

[DaveC]

That is my next step. I am going to throw some more money at it and get it fixed now. I got in line at Teague last month so they are going full speed on it now. Just insert cash.

The plan is to get Teague to fix it, so god forbid, I can use it for once. This is my second full summer without a functional boat. We had to cancel all our lake camping trips, YET AGAIN!. So needless to say I am tired of this B.S.

With some luck I can hopefully get it repaired soon, barring any unforeseen, additional problems. Although I don't anticipate any more problems a few thousand dollars couldn't fix.

Then once it is fixed and paid for I will approach the prior builder and see what he says about it. Hopefully we can work something out.

 

[shueman]

Sux buddy

 

[DaveC]

Just talked to them. The exhaust valve seats are all beat to death. So leaky exhaust valves causing water reversion. All cylinder bores are toast from water washing down the cylinders.

It will need a full rebuild. Sounds like most parts are salvageable which is good.

Summer is over. Time to get out the sand toys and bikes.

 

[n2otoofast4u]

If there is any upside to this, at least you know when you get it back you will be good to go!

 

[DaveC]

All I can do at this point is look at the bright side. And booze helps.

That and wallow in the fact that I was getting 80 MPH out of 6 cylinders. Not too shabby. LOL

If there is any upside to this, at least you know when you get it back you will be good to go!

 

[DaveC]

I am a big enough person to admit when I made a mistake. So I will say it, I messed this up. I should have pulled the plug on this motor deal last year (2017). I could have installed a production motor and been on the lake not only last summer but also this summer.

What was stopping me from doing so was the deposit that I gave for the motor and being afraid that I would not get that back. Well now I am not so worried about that anymore having more than spent that amount (and counting) in unexpected build costs and bullshit that could have been avoided altogether .

I was talking to EB last month when I was visiting and we could have added the Merc 600SCI very easily in 2017 and that would have more than accomplished what I was trying to do with little difficulty and cost what I have spent so far to date.

Fast forward to today and I have now spent about what it would have cost to install the 600 SCI in the first place. (plus the whipple upgrade of course ) For a bit more I could have done the Teague 825/SCX. Either way I would be better off in the long run with those options.

The whole idea from the beginning was to put a non-supercharged engine that ran well but was going to be easier on a drive than a S/C motor. But now I see that I allowed this one requirement to affect my better judgement and should not have done so.

Initially the 600 SCI was always an upgrade with additional cost from my setup and I discussed it with EB when I first starting building the boat. Now that I see I have more than paid for a 600 SCI it has become readily apparent that is what I should have done from the beginning.

The bottom line is that I should have thought it through some more from the beginning and when things starting not going my way last year I should have made some abrupt changes.

Hindsight is 20/20 though. Should have, could have, would have.....

 

[Gelcoater]

I am a big enough person to admit when I made a mistake. So I will say it, I messed this up. I should have pulled the plug on this motor deal last year (2017). I could have installed a production motor and been on the lake not only last summer but also this summer.

What was stopping me from doing so was the deposit that I gave for the motor and being afraid that I would not get that back. Well now I am not so worried about that anymore having more than spent that amount (and counting) in unexpected build costs and bullshit that could have been avoided altogether .

I was talking to EB last month when I was visiting and we could have added the Merc 600SCI very easily in 2017 and that would have more than accomplished what I was trying to do with little difficulty and cost what I have spent so far to date.

Fast forward to today and I have now spent about what it would have cost to install the 600 SCI in the first place. (plus the whipple upgrade of course ) For a bit more I could have done the Teague 825/SCX. Either way I would be better off in the long run with those options.

The whole idea from the beginning was to put a non-supercharged engine that ran well but was going to be easier on a drive than a S/C motor. But now I see that I allowed this one requirement to affect my better judgement and should not have done so.

Initially the 600 SCI was always an upgrade with additional cost from my setup and I discussed it with EB when I first starting building the boat. Now that I see I have more than paid for a 600 SCI it has become readily apparent that is what I should have done from the beginning.

The bottom line is that I should have thought it through some more from the beginning and when things starting not going my way last year I should have made some abrupt changes.

Hindsight is 20/20 though. Should have, could have, would have.....

Hindsight is always 20/20, Dave.
Shoulda, coulda...got a couple 400 whackers

 

[lake p.a.l.]

Dave, sorry u r going thru all of this. Sure hope Teague can get u up and going without breaking the bank.

 

[DaveC]

What makes it worse is Bob and Gary tried to make me a deal last year on that orange and black 28 with the twin 400’s.

It would have been more than a 27 but it would have been a sweetheart of a deal on a bigger badder boat.

It’s was even Giant colors but instead I got Dodger colors. Lol

FML

It would have cost a bit more to get the 400’s on the 27 but it would have been worth it considering their performance numbers. No one has ever fought to go slower

Hindsight is always 20/20, Dave.
Shoulda, coulda...got a couple 400 whackers

The bank is already broke. A full rebuilt isn’t gonna be cheap

Dave, sorry u r going thru all of this. Sure hope Teague can get u up and going without breaking the bank.

 

[renodaytona]

Sucks you have had wasted summers with no boat due to these issues. Should have some sense of relief knowing that Teague will get you taken care of and 2019 will be a year of boating with no issues or worries.

 

[RCDave]

How's the engine coming along?

 

[DaveC]

Nothing new. They had to start over so had to wait for parts. (Pistons)

I hear the long block is coming along. Hopefully hear something soon

I pretty much gave up on this year already. We have some warm weekends left but the weather will turn soon.

I think I will be early for next year

 

[RCDave]

Nothing new. They had to start over so had to wait for parts. (Pistons)

I hear the long block is coming along. Hopefully hear something soon

I pretty much gave up on this year already. We have some warm weekends left but the weather will turn soon.

I think I will be early for next year

Dahm. Tough gig to deal with. Hope it all comes together soon

 

[DaveC]

I was told yesterday the motor is finished and was run on a stand. The motor checks out and will be re-installed.

Hopefully we will be back in business soon.

 

[RCDave]

I was told yesterday the motor is finished and was run on a stand. The motor checks out and will be re-installed.

Hopefully we will be back in business soon.

AWESOME. Sounds like Teague rolled out the red carpet and treating you top notch.

 

[jbird]

I was told yesterday the motor is finished and was run on a stand. The motor checks out and will be re-installed.

Hopefully we will be back in business soon.

Best thing I’ve read on your thread to date!

 

[AFTERSHOCK RACING+]

that's good to hear

 

[n2otoofast4u]

I was told yesterday the motor is finished and was run on a stand. The motor checks out and will be re-installed.

Hopefully we will be back in business soon.

Thats good to read!! I bet its even better for you to type!! Best boating just started in my opinion!!! Get some hours on that thing!!

 

[renodaytona]

Great news!

 

[28Eliminator]

I was told yesterday the motor is finished and was run on a stand. The motor checks out and will be re-installed.

Hopefully we will be back in business soon.

So what was the issue with it?


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[Outdrive1]

So what was the issue with it?


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X2


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[DaveC]

Not sure. I haven’t talked to them in a month. I will discuss it when I pick it up.

Last I heard it ingested water through the combustion chamber. It had bad exhaust valves and washed down cylinders. Maybe head gasket or head bolts or valves. Not sure. It needed a ring and valve job with new pistons.

I am quite frankly pissed about the whole thing so I didn’t want to talk about it anymore. I just told them to fix it and document everything.

I have been too busy at work so I can pay for this mess. Not much I can do other than work so why bother. Makes me mad thinking about it. If I wasn't for being so busy at work I would really be up shit creek without a paddle.

Why am I so pissed? Well because in the end I will have to pay for this entire mess myself (again) and it wasn’t even my fault.

 

[DaveC]

Good news.

Motor is in the boat and running. They moved fast once the engine was re-assembled and long-blocked.

I heard there was a lake test today. Hopefully I will get some prop data also which would be nice because I was struggling with that before the incident.

We shall see soon.

You know its refreshing when someone that you paid good money to does something when they promise to do it AND in a timely manner.

 

[RCDave]

Awesome. Teague's consistent reputation as a top notch shop is well founded!

 

[Outdrive1]

Bad exhaust valves would more than likely give you reversion. And just keep compounding the problem the harder you ran it. Sorry to hear that. Glad you are getting it all resolved finally.


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