WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

New cav plates in the works

AZLineman

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Been wanting to do this for years and since im crippled for a while fig i would get the project started. Using 3/16” 5052 material and new billet stainless pillow blocks from Phil @ D21 too. It will be a coup weeks before i can touch it again but looking forward to it. Going to do a new exhaust set up too. Stellings big tubes with dry tips. More to come....
 

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Gripside80

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Are you running a bronze bushings with a groove in your pillow blocks for that set screw hole? The ones I see now are just a pressed in PTFE low friction bushing. No set screw. Just curious. I’ll be going down this path soon. Looking good!
 
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AZLineman

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Are you running a bronze bushings with a groove in your pillow blocks for that set screw hole? The ones I see now are just a pressed in PTFE low friction bushing. No set screw. Just curious. I’ll be going down this path soon. Looking good!
My bushings are exactly how you described and my set screws have a bronze tip as well and I got them slightly longer so I will use a stainless nyloc Jam nut to set the depth of the set screw for the slightest bit of resistance against the bronze bushing
 

Gripside80

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Any reason you didn’t go PTFE? Are your plates stainless at aluminum? Looks like you are changing some dimensions (longer pillow blocks) and adding many more more turn buckles. Looking good my friend.
 

AZLineman

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Any reason you didn’t go PTFE? Are your plates stainless at aluminum? Looks like you are changing some dimensions (longer pillow blocks) and adding many more more turn buckles. Looking good my friend.
The brass is strong and was easy to get. Assemble with A lil grease and i always spray all that moving shit With WD before i hit the water anyways. Plates are 3/16” 5052 alum but will have a polished stainless stiffner plate under the feet. I like black plates. Not into shiny shit much. 14 turnbuckles is the plan.
 

lenmann

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Been wanting to do this for years and since im crippled for a while fig i would get the project started. Using 3/16” 5052 material and new billet stainless pillow blocks from Phil @ D21 too. It will be a coup weeks before i can touch it again but looking forward to it. Going to do a new exhaust set up too. Stellings big tubes with dry tips. More to come....

Dooood! That is a serious Wilton Bullet vise there on the left of pic #3. What size is that big 'ol girl? How does she do mounted on the truck wheel?

Cav plates are looking great too!
 

AZLineman

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Thats my buds chassis fab shop down the street. Old 20 inch split rims are superheavy and 8”-1/2” walled black pipe are heavy half. If I remember it’s a 12 inch vice. I’ve been working in that shop on shit for 20 years.
 

AZLineman

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Lil more progress. Billett stainless pillow blocks from Phil @ D21 installed.
 

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AZLineman

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The beast will awaken soon. Lol.
 

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AZLineman

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I am going to swap the Eickert headers to Stellings big tubes with dry tips (just a mist to cool em). Eickerts are fantastic up to about 1000Hp but over that CMI or Stellings big tubes are unparalleled.
 

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AZLineman

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Plates on👍
 

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bagged97taco

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Boat looks good and so does the excursion. I live down the street, was headed out on Sunday and saw the boat, turned around to take a pic. I didn’t see cobby or anyone else or I would have stopped.
 

AZLineman

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Ha. Small world. Lori said someone was looking while we were in the house. Stop by, i am there frequently working on my green nova or Cobbys projects.
 

bagged97taco

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I’ll stop in next time. We were on our way to a family function so didn’t have time. Beautiful boat!
 

sintax

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regarding some of the details...

are you extending the plates further than the old ones? If so, how much, and what considerations went into that?
 

X Hoser

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regarding some of the details...

are you extending the plates further than the old ones? If so, how much, and what considerations went into that?
When I did mine I extended them from 10" to 14". Extended the pillow blocks the same to keep the geometry as close as possible. No real science behind it, just what others had done and it worked good for them. Seemed to work good for me too.
 

sintax

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When I did mine I extended them from 10" to 14". Extended the pillow blocks the same to keep the geometry as close as possible. No real science behind it, just what others had done and it worked good for them. Seemed to work good for me too.

I've always understood it as extending the plates has a good impact on the running surface of the boat, essentially what you're doing by extending them is adjusting the prop placement forward, which can have some direct impact on how the boat handles and carries the bow. I'm not saying the "others" havent done their homework before they made the move, i just was curious if any thought was given to it. I'm far from an old graybeard v-drive wizard, but i'm trying to learn as i go.
 
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X Hoser

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I've always understood it as extending the plates has a good impact on the running surface of the boat, essentially what you're doing by extending them is adjusting the prop placement forward, which can have some direct impact on how the boat handles and carries the bow. I'm not saying the "others" havent done their homework before they made the move, i just was curious if any thought was given to it. I'm far from an old graybeard v-drive wizard, but i'm trying to learn as i go.
FRZNJIM here on the boards who had 3 different 21's had the most input on the size. Another member on here had just completed his so I basically copied what he did, which is what Jim had suggested. It was a learning process for me too and everything you mentioned above is accurate. Strut placement, strut angle, distance motor is from the transom, where the v-drive is mounted, and horsepower were all factors. They all referenced the "balance" of the boat. I also spoke with Stan at Schiada for input. Again, no expertise here I just leaned on those that had experience with setting up the kind of boat I had.
 

spectracular

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How do the plates attach to the bottom of the boat? I am assuming that a 1/4” -ish recess is made in the hull and then the plates are through bolted. If this is the case...is the hull thickened up to account for the recess?
 

AZLineman

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It is slightly. 3/4-1” thick where it bolts thru aylt the recess. 7x5/16” bolts per plate
 

AZLineman

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Definitely lIke the black plates. Looks good.
Thanks. I am a fan of black over bling. 8 coats of VHT satin epoxy. I will powdercoat in the future. I am going to take a scotchbrite pad to the stellings that are going on and will prob shoot them black as well. They are a lil scratched up already.
 

rivergames

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Thanks. I am a fan of black over bling. 8 coats of VHT satin epoxy. I will powdercoat in the future. I am going to take a scotchbrite pad to the stellings that are going on and will prob shoot them black as well. They are a lil scratched up already.
Personally, I wouldn't coat the prop. You want to be able to check and see if small cracks are developing whenever she's pulled out of the water and on the trailer. I'd just scotchbrite and WD40 to clean her up and let her ride. Loosing an ear on the prop typically tears shit up
 

AZLineman

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Personally, I wouldn't coat the prop. You want to be able to check and see if small cracks are developing whenever she's pulled out of the water and on the trailer. I'd just scotchbrite and WD40 to clean her up and let her ride. Loosing an ear on the prop typically tears shit up
Lol. Stellings polished stainless headers. I would never coat a prop either. I do the same, WD and scotchbrite and a magnaflux now and then. I WD rudder and cav hardware too. I have not run a stellings prop in forever nor would I put 1500hp to one. Lol.
 

AZLineman

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I do want a new 2 blade from Shelfo tho.
11-3/4x16
 

rivergames

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Lol. Stellings polished stainless headers. I would never coat a prop either. I do the same, WD and scotchbrite and a magnaflux now and then. I WD rudder and cav hardware too. I have not run a stellings prop in forever nor would I put 1500hp to one. Lol.
Haha I should have picked that up but I'm distracted walking my Rams Rams Stadium project [emoji16]
 

AZLineman

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Haha I should have picked that up but I'm distracted walking my Rams Rams Stadium project [emoji16]

Lol. I gotcha. I hav seen plenty of old props chromed and painted.
 

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Philly

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Beautiful! I would like to see a pic of the whole boat. Awesome colors!
 

motormonkey

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Thanks. I am a fan of black over bling. 8 coats of VHT satin epoxy. I will powdercoat in the future. I am going to take a scotchbrite pad to the stellings that are going on and will prob shoot them black as well. They are a lil scratched up already.
looking good.
I'm with you on the blacked out look. I had a polished everything boat before, what a pain in the ass to keep it shiney.

How do you like the transom blocks, they look nice. I'm going to be doing my transom pretty soon and looking at options.
 

AZLineman

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I luv how the blocks came out. Many peeps do aluminum and if i was starting from a clean slate i may hav as well and done 6 or 7. Utilizing the existing holes I had in the transom and the fact that I wanted to reuse my hex bar Phil at D21 exceeded my expectations with his SS pieces. They are stout AF.
 

AZLineman

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Got the Eickert manifolds off today and the Stellings big tubes on. Still need to do water lines and figure out tips. I can not believe how huge the big tubes are in comparison to the eickerts. Gonna flow like a mf’er!
CBE097AC-2D16-4C61-AC88-30F5CD6DCEA0.jpeg
 

AZLineman

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Up, out or down? Tips are dry but once done i will Inject an bit of water to cool slightly.
 

AZLineman

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Thoughts?
 

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SoCalZero

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I like Up and out. Down might burn gel if too close.
 
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