New Home Const

[28Eliminator]

I thought it might be interesting to Document the construction of a complete home from start to finish. There are enough in the construction industry on here that it should be fun to see the comments regarding the different construction techniques, habits, and hassles that most of us all go through during the process.

With that, a little info about the home;

5436 Sq Ft Including guest house
1063 Sq Ft 4 car Garage
Slab on Grade Const
Single story
Stucco finish,Tile roof

This home will have a nice Pool, courtyard fireplace, and a laundry list of high end options.

Pad with outside forms set


Underground plumbing is installed prior to trench, and finish forming.







Anyone want to know why we didn't trench first

Backfilled and compaction test done

 

[NicPaus]

You import all the sand or is that how it is? Imagine to soft to trench ahead. I just got off the phone with soils engineer myself. Start diggin thursday for 2 new ground ups:champagne:. Will start a similar thread. Both will have basements and be constructed with ICF's.

 

[rivermobster]

Awesome. This is gonna be a kick azz thread!

I have a question though...

How come no new homes are built with raised foundations? Cost? Codes, or what?

Thanks in advance.

 

[28Eliminator]

You import all the sand or is that how it is? Imagine to soft to trench ahead. I just got off the phone with soils engineer myself. Start diggin thursday for 2 new ground ups:champagne:. Will start a similar thread. Both will have basements and be constructed with ICF's.

The sand is all native. This project is in the Coachella Valley (Indian Wells).., and the whole valley is a giant sandbox. 90% compaction just sitting there

Actually this stuff trenches nice. The reason were trenching this house afterwards is because of the low pad height. All pads (625) on the project were originally graded per a master plan, and must be built at such. We planted all the vacant pads (approx300) with grass and irrigated them, for appearance reasons (our upper class homeowners don't like dirt ). When someone buys a lot and pics a plan, we then have to scrape the grass off and remove the irrigation to build the house (of course). Well.... when we scraped the grass off, we had to go down about 6" to get it all out, leaving the pad too low.

It's just easier to set the boards, and trench after by hand. Our Concrete contractors choice.

ICF's are an emerging building technique that fascinates me. Never worked with them, but researched them to some degree. Very efficient and easy to work with. That would be a great thread :thumbsup

 

[28Eliminator]

Nice project! :thumbsup


Not to jack the thread, I'll remove the pix after Nic takes a look.

My brother is building a house in Blythe and is using ICF's. If you have any questions I believe he would be willing to speak with you.

Nice house :thumbsup

 

[28Eliminator]

Awesome. This is gonna be a kick azz thread!

I have a question though...

How come no new homes are built with raised foundations? Cost? Codes, or what?

Thanks in advance.

Some are. For this Demographic location (Desert), Slab on grade homes are the easiest, and most cost effective way to do it. Especially when your developing an entire project like this one. Each of the lots (Pads) are designed for a specific sized home, and graded Level (Ideal for Slab on Grade const).

Raised foundations are ideal for cold weather, or sloped lot conditions, or anywhere that drainage could be an issue. I spent 25 years building homes on raised foundations, and at the time, couldn't fathom the idea of building a home on a slab...LOL, funny how things change.

 

[NicPaus]

Nice project! :thumbsup


Not to jack the thread, I'll remove the pix after Nic takes a look.

My brother is building a house in Blythe and is using ICF's. If you have any questions I believe he would be willing to speak with you.

House looks great I will start another thread so we dont side track this one. Always like to see how others build.

 

[NicPaus]

The sand is all native. This project is in the Coachella Valley (Indian Wells).., and the whole valley is a giant sandbox. 90% compaction just sitting there

Actually this stuff trenches nice. The reason were trenching this house afterwards is because of the low pad height. All pads (625) on the project were originally graded per a master plan, and must be built at such. We planted all the vacant pads (approx300) with grass and irrigated them, for appearance reasons (our upper class homeowners don't like dirt ). When someone buys a lot and pics a plan, we then have to scrape the grass off and remove the irrigation to build the house (of course). Well.... when we scraped the grass off, we had to go down about 6" to get it all out, leaving the pad too low.

It's just easier to set the boards, and trench after by hand. Our Concrete contractors choice.

ICF's are an emerging building technique that fascinates me. Never worked with them, but researched them to some degree. Very efficient and easy to work with. That would be a great thread :thumbsup

Makes sense alot easier for concrete guy's.This will be my second project with ICF's. Last one was so much easier than I expected. I went to a seminar on how to install. Had the sales rep come check it before I poured. In the midwest ICFs are huge do to the weather. Here are weather is never extreme so not a huge factor in choice. Using it to bring down build costs as they will be sold. Know the sales rep fo ARXX and have friends with pumps and trucks. My Framer gave up on life when the market crashed the numbers come out lower with ICF's

 

[rlemn8r]

Where's this home being built at??

 

[28Eliminator]

Where's this home being built at??

Indian wells Ca. The project is Toscana Country Club. We (Sunrise Company) develop high end Country Club communities all over the western US. The Homes in this project start at 1 mil and go up to over 3 mil (not including Lot, or membership fee). We have 2 PGA Championship, Jack Nicklaus designed golf courses, a 40,000 sq ft club house, and a 50,000 sq ft spa.

http://new.toscanacc.com/

 

[rlemn8r]

Indian wells Ca. The project is Toscana Country Club. We (Sunrise Company) develop high end Country Club communities all over the western US. The Homes in this project start at 1 mil and go up to over 3 mil (not including Lot, or membership fee). We have 2 PGA Championship, Jack Nicklaus designed golf courses, a 40,000 sq ft club house, and a 50,000 sq ft spa.

http://new.toscanacc.com/

Do you live out here in the desert or just working out here..

 

[28Eliminator]

Do you live out here in the desert or just working out here..

I live in north la Quinta. You?

 

[rlemn8r]

I live in north la Quinta. You?

Yea I live in cathedral city.. Small world..

 

[28Eliminator]

Moving along this week. A few pics.

All footings have been dug, Vapor barrier layed down, and 3" sand on top.





This is one of the column footings for steel posts at the rear of the home. The 2 columns will hold up a 34' long 8"x10" steel Beam for a trellis. Each column footing is 5' deep with a plate (actually a template now) which is installed 3/4 of the way down. The post's will be installed after the base concrete is poured (up to the template), and encased in concrete the rest of the way up when we pour the slab.




This will be their view out the back



Tomorrow, Post tension cables :thumbsup

 

[kevnmcd]

Nice view!

 

[RitcheyRch]

Going to enjoy watching this thread.

 

[28Eliminator]

Steel and post tension cables being installed. They're dragging ass a little, but must be complete by Monday afternoon. I have to have to coordinate 3 different inspectors for 4 different inspections, prior to the Friday scheduled pour date.....Pain in the Ass







Steel post bases got inspected (Blessed) and poured today. Post will be delivered and installed on Tuesday.



1/2 hour and it's Beer Thirty :thumbsup

 

[speen]

What do you guys build per square foot complete turnkey.

 

[BIG JOHNSON]

You need to buy some Milgards from me.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

 

[28Eliminator]

What do you guys build per square foot complete turnkey.

Our standard homes vary between about $200 - $275 sq ft depending on Model and Elevation.

This home will be around $360 sq ft.

 

[Wheeler]

I have a friend that's a drywall contractor in your area.

Neil Jarrett Drywall
760-485-1759

 

[28Eliminator]

Steel post's are installed. Hopefully I did all the measurements correct and they're at the right height





Soils engineer inspection - :thumbsup
Structural engineer inspection - :thumbsup
Building dept drive by - :thumbsup :bowdown::bowdown:

Steel and cables are all installed and passed inspections. Today I walked with the Plumber, electrician and Framer and chk and double check all measurements and locations, strong wall jigs, sheer wall bolts and straps, hold downs etc..

Unlike a conventional slab, A Post-Tension slab cannot be cut or altered without very expensive X-ray's of the area before cutting to locate the cables first. The cables will be pulled to apprx 35,000 lbs of tension on them, but not until the concrete get's to a certain tensil strength (usually about a week after pour, or 2000psi). If you were to hit a cable while cutting a slab, they explode, and are very dangerous. So everything needs to be in the right spot








Pour tomorrow @ 7am :thumbsup

 

[28Eliminator]

Here's a few pics of the pour yesterday


Double shot

Footings first

Max reach about 90' (just enough)

Main House

Guest House


Took 171 yds of concrete. Today they are grinding the slab (high spots),at least they're supposed to be.. I may run over there and check later Monday we'll be pouring the Garage slabs.

 

[28Eliminator]

I have a friend that's a drywall contractor in your area.

Neil Jarrett Drywall
760-485-1759

Sorry, I didn't reply earlier, I missed this somehow..

All of our Trades are currently Contracted for the project, renewed yearly, and they each have exclusive rights to all of the houses that will eventually be built (sort of). Were just building fancy production homes Beside, I have very little involvement in that part of it. That's all done by our purchasing dept :grumble:

I'll keep his #, I do get calls from HO's looking for different trades.

Dave

 

[copterzach]

Our standard homes vary between about $200 - $275 sq ft depending on Model and Elevation.

This home will be around $360 sq ft.

HOLY CRAP!!!!!

My house was $77 a square foot and its only 4200 sq ft

 

[djunkie]

My 900sq ft house is feeling really small right now.


Sent from my iPhone paid for with Union money.

 

[copterzach]

I just can't wrap my mind around $360 a sq foot!!

 

[djunkie]

I just can't wrap my mind around $360 a sq foot!!

I've gotten a couple quotes to add onto my house and they were around $300 a sq. ft. If I ever do it I may be subbing some of it out and my dad and I will do the finish work. Only way I'll be able to afford it.


Sent from my iPhone paid for with Union money.

 

[copterzach]

Like I said mine was $77 a sq ft.
I paid $34,000 for 13 acres, $12,000 for underground electricty and $82,000 for my shop. I am in a small subdivision. There are 15, 5-13 acre lots. It is a restricted subdivision with a home owners association. I am not sure that I am at $360 a sq ft with land and improvements!!:skull:skull

 

[NicPaus]

I just can't wrap my mind around $360 a sq foot!!

Thats the going rate on the hill for high end custom and goes up from there. I build in the ghetto next door and try to keep my costs around $55-75 a ft on flip houses and spec houses. Next build hoping to keep it at $50 with the economy being so fucked.

You have a nice house. house building costs are always cheaper in other states. Costs here are alot more. I figured this one would be alot less but I have never built post tension and we have not seen the finish yet.

 

[whiteworks]

I just can't wrap my mind around $360 a sq foot!!

A buddy of mine builds out in big horn in the palm springs area, start at $900 sq.ft. heres a link.
http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5604

 

[28Eliminator]

I just can't wrap my mind around $360 a sq foot!!

LOL!! welcome to California . In addition to the escalated cost of doing business in this wonderful state , these homes are actually pretty well appointed, for production homes.

For example;
Hand pounded copper Kitchen sink - $5200
Stone Tile ILO Baseboard throughout - approx $25,000
Flooring contract is well over $100,000
Plumbing fixtures approx $60,000

Conc and Framing Contracts combined, a little under $200,000.

When I built my first home in 1984 it cost me $39 sq ft

Your home is beautiful, Nice work :thumbsup

Thats the going rate on the hill for high end custom and goes up from there. I build in the ghetto next door and try to keep my costs around $55-75 a ft on flip houses and spec houses. Next build hoping to keep it at $50 with the economy being so fucked.

You have a nice house. house building costs are always cheaper in other states. Costs here are alot more. I figured this one would be alot less but I have never built post tension and we have not seen the finish yet.

The PT slab increased the cost of the slab approx $8000. Stay tuned for the finishes. Some of them are pretty nice :thumbsup If I manage to keep this house on Schedule we should be done Nov 7th

A buddy of mine builds out in big horn in the palm springs area, start at $900 sq.ft. heres a link.
http://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5604

That house is Beautiful :thumbsup. There is some pretty insane, off the hook homes up there in Big Horn... Must be some of the 1%rs

 

[28Eliminator]

We had to wait until today to Tension the cables in the slab, due to the fact that the cables are integral with the Garage slabs, which were just poured on Monday.

The concrete that we spec for our homes is 4000 psi mix, even though 3000psi is all that is spec'd by the engineer. The conc must meet 2000psi before we can tension the cables, which usually happens within 3 or 4 day's. It was tested on Tuesday, and was at 2140psi, so we were good to go.

The Tensioning process is less then exciting, but a few footnotes are;

Cable tension needs to be 35 kips (35,000 lbs)

Cables are pulled to apprx 55 kips initially, when the tensioner releases the cable, it slips a little before the keepers grab it, leaving it at around the desired 35 kips.

Each cable is marked prior to being pulled, then measured after the pull to verify the desired and required elongation spec. For example the 122' cables were spec'd to elongate 9 3/8". Some shorter 36' cables were spec'd at 4 1/4".

The engineer is present for the whole process, and verifies the elongation spec's for each cable.

Here's a quick and very exciting video I took

http://youtu.be/c2aleOP8vgw

 

[28Eliminator]

Steel Trellis Beam installed this morning :thumbsup









Rough grading was done today as well, so now finally ready to Frame. Snapping Lines tomorrow morning.

 

[BigQ]

We had to wait until today to Tension the cables in the slab, due to the fact that the cables are integral with the Garage slabs, which were just poured on Monday.

The concrete that we spec for our homes is 4000 psi mix, even though 3000psi is all that is spec'd by the engineer. The conc must meet 2000psi before we can tension the cables, which usually happens within 3 or 4 day's. It was tested on Tuesday, and was at 2140psi, so we were good to go.

The Tensioning process is less then exciting, but a few footnotes are;

Cable tension needs to be 35 kips (35,000 lbs)

Cables are pulled to apprx 55 kips initially, when the tensioner releases the cable, it slips a little before the keepers grab it, leaving it at around the desired 35 kips.

Each cable is marked prior to being pulled, then measured after the pull to verify the desired and required elongation spec. For example the 122' cables were spec'd to elongate 9 3/8". Some shorter 36' cables were spec'd at 4 1/4".

The engineer is present for the whole process, and verifies the elongation spec's for each cable.

Here's a quick and very exciting video I took

http://youtu.be/c2aleOP8vgw

Maybe i missed it in a prior post , but what do the cables do for the structure? I assume it is replacing the steel bars for some reason?

 

[kevnmcd]

Maybe i missed it in a prior post , but what do the cables do for the structure? I assume it is replacing the steel bars for some reason?

Strength and controls differential settlement in the cracks, I believe.

 

[28Eliminator]

Maybe i missed it in a prior post , but what do the cables do for the structure? I assume it is replacing the steel bars for some reason?

Strength and controls differential settlement in the cracks, I believe.

Yes, and Yes.

I'm no engineer, but here's the way I understand it

An Engineer once told me that a typical "slab on Grade" (Monolithic) slab, is in 2 parts. The perimeter and bearing wall footings, Bond beam footings, Grade beams etc are the structural part of the foundation, and that the Slab in between is basically there only to keep you from walking on dirt, and has no real structural value to the house.

A PT slab, as we have done here, makes the slab an integral part of the foundation, and now has structural value, by holding the entire slab in Tension. The cables additionally act as Rebar or WWM to control cracking, like you would used in a traditional Slab.

Concrete is going to crack no matter what you do. There is no way to stop it, but you can control it by cutting in control joints, forcing the concrete to crack where you want. In a PT slab, we cannot cut control joints because of the risk of hitting a cable

 

[RUNNINHOTRACING163.1]

Yes, and Yes.

I'm no engineer, but here's the way I understand it

An Engineer once told me that a typical "slab on Grade" (Monolithic) slab, is in 2 parts. The perimeter and bearing wall footings, Bond beam footings, Grade beams etc are the structural part of the foundation, and that the Slab in between is basically there only to keep you from walking on dirt, and has no real structural value to the house.

A PT slab, as we have done here, makes the slab an integral part of the foundation, and now has structural value, by holding the entire slab in Tension. The cables additionally act as Rebar or WWM to control cracking, like you would used in a traditional Slab.

Concrete is going to crack no matter what you do. There is no way to stop it, but you can control it by cutting in control joints, forcing the concrete to crack where you want. In a PT slab, we cannot cut control joints because of the risk of hitting a cable

sure looks like footings & slap were done in 1 solid pour - the garage floor










ROCK ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ITS A SKATER NATION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:drnkfr

 

[28Eliminator]

sure looks like footings & slap were done in 1 solid pour - the garage floor









ROCK ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ITS A SKATER NATION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:drnkfr

It was one pour (Monolithic). Now that I read my post, I guess I should have worded it differently... My Bad :bash:

 

[ConcreteDr]

PT is great the concept, was originally a boom to the hi rise industry
PT reduces the required amount of conventional reinforcing ( rebar)
so you can use thinner sections and less concrete so your able to maximize hight/floor ratio, you need engineers that are familiar with the process
or the SHTF , its here to stay , in residential construction it does reduce cracking significantly and does provide a more sound structure in case of a seismic event....

I have followed this thread nice work here ..........

 

[28Eliminator]

Sorry I've been slackin... Been very busy. Did I mention I have 7 other houses going on at the same time :grumble:

Been standing walls, and they're moving along pretty good. I went over all the options and changes with the foreman, and of course he blew off about half of them... so now he'll be spending Monday fixing them

X Beam...



Below shows how some of the walls are double framed. Actually most of them. It's done merely for Architectural reasons, like niches, recessed walls and windows, etc..



Below, ooops. As many times as we go over things, something gets missed. These straps are in the wrong place, and have to be moved down the wall about 3'. No worries, there's a "fix" for that.

Service side of the house.. It's 126' long



Below shows one of the PT cables, after it has been pulled and cut off.

Looking at the Guest House from the main entry

We left out the walls for the Portico Entry so we can drive the Petty Bone through to get to the main house to load roof sheeting. I'm stilla little skeptical of this plan


Plumb and line beginning of the week, Trusses up by the end of the week.

 

[28Eliminator]

For those of you who are interested..

Here is one of the web based sales flyers for the house were doing. The elevation is the "A", or "Early california". At least you can see what the basic floor plan is, as well as the exterior elevation.

View attachment 923Web.pdf

 

[28Eliminator]

Sheer panel is all up, as well as the trusses.


We had to build up blocks to protect the foundation from the weight of the Petti-Bone. Since this house is land locked, there is no access down the side of the property for something this big, this was the only way to get the trusses and roof sheeting to the biggest part of the main house.

The next 2 pics show the markings on the truss tails. Trusses come as a big engineered jig saw puzzle these day's, and on the close up you can see the stamping showing their location.



Courtyard view looking at the entry way from the Portico.

Rear elevation

View out of the Living room

Truss blocks.... Anyone wonder what the point of this is?

 

[RUNNINHOTRACING163.1]

Sheer panel is all up, as well as the trusses.

View attachment 184269
We had to build up blocks to protect the foundation from the weight of the Petti-Bone. Since this house is land locked, there is no access down the side of the property for something this big, this was the only way to get the trusses and roof sheeting to the biggest part of the main house.
View attachment 184270
The next 2 pics show the markings on the truss tails. Trusses come as a big engineered jig saw puzzle these day's, and on the close up you can see the stamping showing their location.
View attachment 184271

View attachment 184272
Courtyard view looking at the entry way from the Portico.
View attachment 184273
Rear elevation
View attachment 184274
View out of the Living room
View attachment 184275
Truss blocks.... Anyone wonder what the point of this is?
View attachment 184276

making some nice progress :thumbsup








ROCK ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ITS A SKATER NATION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:drnkfr

 

[.boatpoor]

Sheer panel is all up, as well as the trusses.

View attachment 184269
We had to build up blocks to protect the foundation from the weight of the Petti-Bone. Since this house is land locked, there is no access down the side of the property for something this big, this was the only way to get the trusses and roof sheeting to the biggest part of the main house.
View attachment 184270
The next 2 pics show the markings on the truss tails. Trusses come as a big engineered jig saw puzzle these day's, and on the close up you can see the stamping showing their location.
View attachment 184271

View attachment 184272
Courtyard view looking at the entry way from the Portico.
View attachment 184273
Rear elevation
View attachment 184274
View out of the Living room
View attachment 184275
Truss blocks.... Anyone wonder what the point of this is?
View attachment 184276

so the truss"es don"t twist under load and to tie the roof together?

 

[28Eliminator]

making some nice progress :thumbsup








ROCK ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ITS A SKATER NATION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:drnkfr

Were actually about a week ahead :thumbsup, but that's going to come to a screeching halt shortly. This house has a lot of shit going on :grumble:

 

[28Eliminator]

so the truss"es don"t twist under load and to tie the roof together?

They are actually used to transfer lateral loads from/to adjacent walls, drag struts, etc.

And again, I'm no engineer, but this is how I understand it;

In a nut shell, If you have a bearing wall that is cut up full of windows and doors, and is unable to meet lateral engineering specs, you can use an adjacent (in this case), roof diaphragm to gain the required rigidity, by transferring that load to the roof from the wall. The plywood blocks in between the trusses, create a "sheer wall" of sorts, making it a solid membrane. There are straps and hardware, as well as special nailing (down through the roof ply into the blocks), that combined create what the engineer is looking for as far as strength.

In the picture, going to the right hand side is the top of the wall that I'm referring to. I'll take some more pics of it with the straps on it, and it will make a little more sense.

 

[TeamGreene]

Sheer panel is all up, as well as the trusses.

View attachment 184269
We had to build up blocks to protect the foundation from the weight of the Petti-Bone. Since this house is land locked, there is no access down the side of the property for something this big, this was the only way to get the trusses and roof sheeting to the biggest part of the main house.
View attachment 184270
The next 2 pics show the markings on the truss tails. Trusses come as a big engineered jig saw puzzle these day's, and on the close up you can see the stamping showing their location.
View attachment 184271

View attachment 184272
Courtyard view looking at the entry way from the Portico.
View attachment 184273
Rear elevation
View attachment 184274
View out of the Living room
View attachment 184275
Truss blocks.... Anyone wonder what the point of this is?
View attachment 184276

Shear transfer

 

[28Eliminator]

Well, it's been a while since I updated this... Started 2 more houses, and have 3 more to start by the beginning of May :champagne: I sure hope this little "Flurry" were having keeps rolling..

Trying to catch up..

Entry Portico (from Front) done. No longer an alley way for the petti bone


Roof sheeted




Coil strap is an engineers favorite piece of hardware I think. They like to use it everywhere. This particular application is for tieing together the truss blocks on the top.




A look down on the courtyard


4x10 Garage door opener backing :thumbsup


Here's a pic of the bottom side of the Truss Block (mentioned earlier, and in previous post), so you can get a little better idea of what it's doing. In the bottom right of the pic, you can see where the coil strapping is disappearing, going onto the top of the wall. It goes back on the wall a distance determined by the engineer. An identical coilstrap is nailed down on top of the roof sheeting (shown above) through to the top of these blocks.

 

[28Eliminator]

Rear trellis is finished. Heres a couple progress pics

Each 6x6 is hung with "Knife Plate" type hangers, which are basically concealed when finished. The Beam end is drilled to go over the Bolts welded on the beam, with the washer and nut recessed down inside. The hole is then filled with an epoxy so water can't sit inside of the wood.


Knife plate hangers.


Finished


The slots and holes for the knife plates are filled with Bondo, and brushed so it looks like a re-sawn finish to match the wood texture.