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OBD2 scanners

Yellowboat

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any recommendations for a good OBD2 scanner that doesn't break the bank.

My crappy $40 one finally bit the dust.
 

Waffles

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I've had this one for about 6 years now....works well with the torque app
Screenshot_20180715-122404.jpeg


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sintax

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I like these Foxwell NT510 scanners, they are more than a ODB2/CAN scanner. They let you tap into manufacturer specific functions and systems that a normal scanner doesnt have access to. For example, on my BMW I can code a new battery, I can reset service intervals, I can actuate almost anything on the CAN bus so if I want to replace the fuel filter, I can do that and run the fuel pump to purge the air out of the system without starting the car.

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesal...-with-one-fre-car-brand-software-and-obd.html
 

HPBoats83

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I was looking at the auto meter DashLink.


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185EZ

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I also have the BAFX bluetooth scanner
Amazon had a deal for $14
I use it with Torque lite(free for us cheap bastards) or you can pay for the pro version
Put certain gauges on your phone and view real time data.
Torque-Pro.png
 

rivrbrat

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I also have the BAFX bluetooth scanner
Amazon had a deal for $14
I use it with Torque lite(free for us cheap bastards) or you can pay for the pro version
Put certain gauges on your phone and view real time data.
Torque-Pro.png


I have saved a bunch of people from last minute trip ruins using this after failed dashes.
 

ToMorrow44

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I like these Foxwell NT510 scanners, they are more than a ODB2/CAN scanner. They let you tap into manufacturer specific functions and systems that a normal scanner doesnt have access to. For example, on my BMW I can code a new battery, I can reset service intervals, I can actuate almost anything on the CAN bus so if I want to replace the fuel filter, I can do that and run the fuel pump to purge the air out of the system without starting the car.

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesal...-with-one-fre-car-brand-software-and-obd.html
Can that go into the ABS system too? And perform tests like actuating the ABS module to bleed the brakes?
 

rivermobster

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I like these Foxwell NT510 scanners, they are more than a ODB2/CAN scanner. They let you tap into manufacturer specific functions and systems that a normal scanner doesnt have access to. For example, on my BMW I can code a new battery, I can reset service intervals, I can actuate almost anything on the CAN bus so if I want to replace the fuel filter, I can do that and run the fuel pump to purge the air out of the system without starting the car.

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesal...-with-one-fre-car-brand-software-and-obd.html

Do you know if it will do rear brake pads too?
 

LASINC

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This one has always worked for me. It tells me what the code means so that I don't have to look it up.
cp9125.png
 

Slats

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I tried a bunch of scanners on my 7.3 diesel. Most of them don't work on the engine. If you want to look at the abs you can. But it won't communicate with the processor.
 

lbhsbz

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Will it pull codes out of my IDM in my 7.3l diesel.

I'm not sure.

If you're anywhere near long beach, you could bring your truck by and we can try. I have Ford, GM, and Toyota software in my Foxwell scanner. I also have a Modis, AutoEnginuity, and a Launch CRP129...something will read it.
 

rivermobster

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From what I understand it'll retract the rear brakes on cars with electronic parking brakes if thats what you're asking.

That's exactly what I'm asking. I had to send my friends ML to another shop to get it done, cause we didn't have late enough software to do it. Maybe I'll have her buy one of those for her car. Thanks!
 

sintax

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That's exactly what I'm asking. I had to send my friends ML to another shop to get it done, cause we didn't have late enough software to do it. Maybe I'll have her buy one of those for her car. Thanks!

So if you go on foxwell's website for the tool, and they have some documents that break out what exactly they can do on specific make / models. Keep in mind you DO need to buy a specific vehicle pack for each make since they're different softwares. I know you work with a shop, and I think this tool has maybe a limit on how many makes you can load via USB. It might not be the ideal tool for your situation if you're hitting a lot of makes.
 

lbhsbz

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Like all bootleg stolen software chinese scanners, there are going to be glitches and holes in the coverage. I've had my Foxwell NT510 for a bit over a year now and dealing with the company for support is bit troublesome. I've found a bunch of bugs...Example, when I try to plug it into my 2002 Silverado and have it auto-detect the VIN and vehicle info, it fails the operation and there is a click noise from my radio while the clock resets to 1:00. GM trucks are historically tough to auto-detect with aftermarket tools...but their response to my inquiry was "scanner is for car, not truck". Whatever, it works OK if I enter all the info manually. It freezes up on occasion, typically when trying to monitor something, which makes it somewhat useless sometimes, but I've done GM crank relearns, ABS automated bleeds on both Toyota and GM, used a bunch of bi-directional actuations on GM, Ford, and Toyota. It's my go too tool....I'll grab something else if the Foxwell can't give me what I need.

Keep in mind, the purchase price of the tool only includes enhanced software for one manufacturer...others are $60 each I think, and you can only have up to 4 on the NT510. Updates are free IIRC. The software and licencing is a bit clunky but if I can figure it out, anyone can.
 

rivermobster

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So if you go on foxwell's website for the tool, and they have some documents that break out what exactly they can do on specific make / models. Keep in mind you DO need to buy a specific vehicle pack for each make since they're different softwares. I know you work with a shop, and I think this tool has maybe a limit on how many makes you can load via USB. It might not be the ideal tool for your situation if you're hitting a lot of makes.

We have a Snap-On scanner for shop duty. Snap-On wants $3k for the latest upgrade. We don't do enough late model cars to warrant spending that kind of money at this point in time. No doubt someday we will have to.

This would just be something I would have my friend buy for her ML BlueTec. Just to reset the service interval was a Total pain in the azz and I had to send her car to a friends shop to have the rear pads replaced, since he had the software for her car. I felt 80 bucks was more than fair, but it also would have paid for half of this scanner. :)

Thanks for all your input. I will check it out. :thumbup:
 

lbhsbz

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We have a Snap-On scanner for shop duty. Snap-On wants $3k for the latest upgrade. We don't do enough late model cars to warrant spending that kind of money at this point in time. No doubt someday we will have to.

This would just be something I would have my friend buy for her ML BlueTec. Just to reset the service interval was a Total pain in the azz and I had to send her car to a friends shop to have the rear pads replaced, since he had the software for her car. I felt 80 bucks was more than fair, but it also would have paid for half of this scanner. :)

Thanks for all your input. I will check it out. :thumbup:

If you're looking for something to supplement what you've got for occasional use, I have an autoEnginuity that I'm looking to unload...it's a laptop based tool, updates are a couple hundred bucks, and you can load every manufacturer on it....I'll sell it (without the laptop) for $250. It's updated to 2015, but I'm not sure it has the Euro package...Euro package would be $200 or so (check their website).
 

rivermobster

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If you're looking for something to supplement what you've got for occasional use, I have an autoEnginuity that I'm looking to unload...it's a laptop based tool, updates are a couple hundred bucks, and you can load every manufacturer on it....I'll sell it (without the laptop) for $250. It's updated to 2015, but I'm not sure it has the Euro package...Euro package would be $200 or so (check their website).

Thank you. At the shop, I don't work on anything newer than 1974. AND I have an OTC scanner for my personal cars.

After working on check engine lights at the dealers for 30+ years, I stay as far away from scanners as I can! :D
 

SBMech

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Don't waste a dime on any of the aftermarket tools that are from china IMO. They all are just copied shit from china that has many glitches and holes in the port.

Snap-On, MAC, Matco all suck ass too. Rip off to the max. Launch sucks too. Way too much money for half assed programming. I have used almost every tool out there, from the giant cabinets of the Bosch KTS 100 (it has it's own microfishe reader!) and the KTS 250, to the "Hammer", and on through the series to the KTS 320, and the laptop based KTS 520. I have 3 Snap-On tools and 2 Launch, and have used other various Matco and Mac tools (all OTC and Launch copies). I have played with Star Tec and OSS/ISTA as well.

The best tool I have seen out there right now (for the price and abilitys for an aftermarket tool) is the Autel MaxiSys MS900 Series. It's made by the engineer who created the AutoLogic tool. Full bi-directional control of all systems enabled with it. Every manufacturer. Hands down the best tool I have used professionally, provides factory level diagnostics for all makes.

It's a little steep to buy into at 3200 ish but it's half that (around 1300) for just the tool without the passthrough box.

The cheap shit is ok to read codes, but for any real diagnosis on modern can bus systems etc, a real good tool is essential.
 
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ToMorrow44

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Don't waste a dime on any of the aftermarket tools that are from china IMO. They all are just copied shit from china that has many glitches and holes in the port.

Snap-On, MAC, Matco all suck ass too. Rip off to the max. Launch sucks too. Way too much money for half assed programming. I have used almost every tool out there, from the giant cabinets of the Bosch KTS 100 (it has it's own microfishe reader!) and the KTS 250, to the "Hammer", and on through the series to the KTS 320, and the laptop based KTS 520. I have 3 Snap-On tools and 2 Launch, and have used other various Matco and Mac tools (all OTC and Launch copies). I have played with Star Tec and OSS/ISTA as well.

The best tool I have seen out there right now (for the price and abilitys for an aftermarket tool) is the Autel MaxiSys MS900 Series. It's made by the engineer who created the AutoLogic tool. Full bi-directional control of all systems enabled with it. Every manufacturer. Hands down the best tool I have used professionally, provides factory level diagnostics for all makes.

It's a little steep to buy into at 3200 ish but it's half that (around 1300) for just the tool without the passthrough box.

The cheap shit is ok to read codes, but for any real diagnosis on modern can bus systems etc, a real good tool is essential.
My dad has the Autel as well. Really cool tool, there is a little learning curve to figure out all its features. But it can basically read anything on the car, including random stuff like pulling the door code combinatin from Fords and such.
 

MillerTime

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Don't waste a dime on any of the aftermarket tools that are from china IMO. They all are just copied shit from china that has many glitches and holes in the port.

Snap-On, MAC, Matco all suck ass too. Rip off to the max. Launch sucks too. Way too much money for half assed programming. I have used almost every tool out there, from the giant cabinets of the Bosch KTS 100 (it has it's own microfishe reader!) and the KTS 250, to the "Hammer", and on through the series to the KTS 320, and the laptop based KTS 520. I have 3 Snap-On tools and 2 Launch, and have used other various Matco and Mac tools (all OTC and Launch copies). I have played with Star Tec and OSS/ISTA as well.

The best tool I have seen out there right now (for the price and abilitys for an aftermarket tool) is the Autel MaxiSys MS900 Series. It's made by the engineer who created the AutoLogic tool. Full bi-directional control of all systems enabled with it. Every manufacturer. Hands down the best tool I have used professionally, provides factory level diagnostics for all makes.

It's a little steep to buy into at 3200 ish but it's half that (around 1300) for just the tool without the passthrough box.

The cheap shit is ok to read codes, but for any real diagnosis on modern can bus systems etc, a real good tool is essential.
I have the snap on solus ultra or whatever its called. I like it. Switched to snap on from otc a few years ago autel was still newer on the market then so i passed. I think i will probably get the autel in the next couple months tho because i feel that it will be more efficient emailing pre and post scans instead of having to plug into a computer with shop stream. I love the trouble shooter that the snap on scanners have. Wasn't impressed that much with the new Apollo8 they came out with though. Not a big enough improvement over what i have to upgrade. Autel is supposed to have a newer better scanner coming out real soon.
I like to get one of these cheap little scanners to do little stuff with, but it sounds like i would probably be pretty disappointed in them.
 

SBMech

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I have the snap on solus ultra or whatever its called. I like it. Switched to snap on from otc a few years ago autel was still newer on the market then so i passed. I think i will probably get the autel in the next couple months tho because i feel that it will be more efficient emailing pre and post scans instead of having to plug into a computer with shop stream. I love the trouble shooter that the snap on scanners have. Wasn't impressed that much with the new Apollo8 they came out with though. Not a big enough improvement over what i have to upgrade. Autel is supposed to have a newer better scanner coming out real soon.
I like to get one of these cheap little scanners to do little stuff with, but it sounds like i would probably be pretty disappointed in them.

Nothing is as fun as plugging in your tool to check the dynamic headlights on a Porsche or VW (for example) only to find out the software did not make the port...

After multiple e-mails to support about the various issues (does not matter what tool, most of them have terrible support) it's always "it will be in the next update"....it never happens.
 

MillerTime

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Nothing is as fun as plugging in your tool to check the dynamic headlights on a Porsche or VW (for example) only to find out the software did not make the port...

After multiple e-mails to support about the various issues (does not matter what tool, most of them have terrible support) it's always "it will be in the next update"....it never happens.
In not very knowledgeable on those two. Here in Edmond, OK, We get a lot of asian, Mercedes, bmw and domestics. Its weird how certain parts of town vary in the makes we get. We are starting to see a few more vw's but still not many.
We are body shop, so we do more of the stuff that is wreck related than drivability type stuff. I dont do any programming or flash stuff other than the bi-directional things you can do with the scanners. Luckily we have a mobile mechanical company that we get to do that stuff, the 1234yf handling and any other mechanical stuff that we dont feel comfortable doing. They do enough to make it affordable to have the different oe softwares and subscriptions, we work on to big a variety for it to be cost effective for us at this time.
 

SBMech

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In not very knowledgeable on those two. Here in Edmond, OK, We get a lot of asian, Mercedes, bmw and domestics. Its weird how certain parts of town vary in the makes we get. We are starting to see a few more vw's but still not many.
We are body shop, so we do more of the stuff that is wreck related than drivability type stuff. I dont do any programming or flash stuff other than the bi-directional things you can do with the scanners. Luckily we have a mobile mechanical company that we get to do that stuff, the 1234yf handling and any other mechanical stuff that we dont feel comfortable doing. They do enough to make it affordable to have the different oe softwares and subscriptions, we work on to big a variety for it to be cost effective for us at this time.

Hehe it was more a wanking about how much money you spend on overpriced diagnostic tools that never live up to the promises made by the manufacturer. :D
 

MillerTime

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Hehe it was more a wanking about how much money you spend on overpriced diagnostic tools that never live up to the promises made by the manufacturer. :D
Well....."the $4,000 one won't do that but the newly updated $7500 one might do a few things a little better, but if you get this scope one it will do this, that the $7500 wont do.......you should just get the $10-12k one".

Im thinking a guy with experience and skills and a basic diag tool, will do more than the average guy with the fanciest new diag tool. But, you have to have the tools to interface these days, its getting " fun" ! :) But, theres more money and oportunity for those that will learn it and stick with it. I personally cant keep up with it all, but i know who to call, most of the time!

Sorry OP, wish i had a good answer on the little scanners, but i dont have a solid solution to the big ones, and there's far less of them i think.
 

lbhsbz

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Don't waste a dime on any of the aftermarket tools that are from china IMO. They all are just copied shit from china that has many glitches and holes in the port.

Snap-On, MAC, Matco all suck ass too. Rip off to the max. Launch sucks too. Way too much money for half assed programming. I have used almost every tool out there, from the giant cabinets of the Bosch KTS 100 (it has it's own microfishe reader!) and the KTS 250, to the "Hammer", and on through the series to the KTS 320, and the laptop based KTS 520. I have 3 Snap-On tools and 2 Launch, and have used other various Matco and Mac tools (all OTC and Launch copies). I have played with Star Tec and OSS/ISTA as well.

The best tool I have seen out there right now (for the price and abilitys for an aftermarket tool) is the Autel MaxiSys MS900 Series. It's made by the engineer who created the AutoLogic tool. Full bi-directional control of all systems enabled with it. Every manufacturer. Hands down the best tool I have used professionally, provides factory level diagnostics for all makes.

It's a little steep to buy into at 3200 ish but it's half that (around 1300) for just the tool without the passthrough box.

The cheap shit is ok to read codes, but for any real diagnosis on modern can bus systems etc, a real good tool is essential.

I’m typically on your side...but in the same breath, you said avoid the Chinese tools and get an Autel.
 

highvoltagehands

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Don't waste a dime on any of the aftermarket tools that are from china IMO. They all are just copied shit from china that has many glitches and holes in the port.
The best tool I have seen out there right now (for the price and abilitys for an aftermarket tool) is the Autel MaxiSys MS900 Series. It's made by the engineer who created the AutoLogic tool. Full bi-directional control of all systems enabled with it. Every manufacturer. Hands down the best tool I have used professionally, provides factory level diagnostics for all makes.
The cheap shit is ok to read codes, but for any real diagnosis on modern can bus systems etc, a real good tool is essential.

Is there a unit under $250 that you or others would recommend for "Harry the Homeowner Mechanic" who wants to check code and reset a simple check engine light, or ABS, TPMS lights & maybe reset/reboot touch screen stereo or navigation display when it acts up? It would be need to be compatible with these vehicles:
2017 Ram 3500 diesel, 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0 gas, 2012 Chrysler 300 SRT8 w/6.4L Hemi.
The Autel AL & ML Series, Innova, and Bluedriver seem to have good Amazon reviews, any opinions or advice???
Thanks Hud
Screen Shot 2018-08-29 at 3.09.53 AM.png
 

SBMech

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Is there a unit under $250 that you or others would recommend for "Harry the Homeowner Mechanic" who wants to check code and reset a simple check engine light, or ABS, TPMS lights & maybe reset/reboot touch screen stereo or navigation display when it acts up? It would be need to be compatible with these vehicles:
2017 Ram 3500 diesel, 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0 gas, 2012 Chrysler 300 SRT8 w/6.4L Hemi.
The Autel AL & ML Series, Innova, and Bluedriver seem to have good Amazon reviews, any opinions or advice???
Thanks Hud
View attachment 677803

Make sure you read the access list on what ever you choose, like I said, I prefer the Autel tools atm.
 

SBMech

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I’m typically on your side...but in the same breath, you said avoid the Chinese tools and get an Autel.

Haha I knew you were going to bust me on that!

Lets just say it is much better engineered and supported than any of the rest?

Truth is EVERY scan tool is made in Asia somewhere atm. But you knew that...;)
 

lbhsbz

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Is there a unit under $250 that you or others would recommend for "Harry the Homeowner Mechanic" who wants to check code and reset a simple check engine light, or ABS, TPMS lights & maybe reset/reboot touch screen stereo or navigation display when it acts up? It would be need to be compatible with these vehicles:
2017 Ram 3500 diesel, 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0 gas, 2012 Chrysler 300 SRT8 w/6.4L Hemi.
The Autel AL & ML Series, Innova, and Bluedriver seem to have good Amazon reviews, any opinions or advice???
Thanks Hud
View attachment 677803

Foxwell NT510 is the most capable tool I've owned in that price range.
 

rivermobster

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Well....."the $4,000 one won't do that but the newly updated $7500 one might do a few things a little better, but if you get this scope one it will do this, that the $7500 wont do.......you should just get the $10-12k one".

Im thinking a guy with experience and skills and a basic diag tool, will do more than the average guy with the fanciest new diag tool. But, you have to have the tools to interface these days, its getting " fun" ! :) But, theres more money and oportunity for those that will learn it and stick with it. I personally cant keep up with it all, but i know who to call, most of the time!

Sorry OP, wish i had a good answer on the little scanners, but i don't have a solid solution to the big ones, and there's far less of them i think.

Boom. There it is right there!

The codes and such will tell you what is wrong, but as a tech, you still have to figure out WHY that reading is wrong! Most people think you plug in a scanner, and it tells you what to fix. Nothing could be further from the truth...

It takes someone with a Strong electrical background to be able to properly diagnose codes. Sure you can Google the code, make and model of the vehicle and maybe get lucky that someone already had the Exact same problem you do, but that is not always the case.

Solid quality tools will help, but you have to be able to interpret what the tool is telling you, and you have to know how to use that tool.

Have an intermittent problem??? Holy shit, good luck with that!!! There is nothing a tech enjoys doing more than diagnosing and intermittent issue with a check engine light on a late model car. Most guys would rather poke their own eyes out...

Good mechanics with solid backgrounds will always be in demand.
 

lbhsbz

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Boom. There it is right there!

The codes and such will tell you what is wrong, but as a tech, you still have to figure out WHY that reading is wrong! Most people think you plug in a scanner, and it tells you what to fix. Nothing could be further from the truth...

It takes someone with a Strong electrical background to be able to properly diagnose codes. Sure you can Google the code, make and model of the vehicle and maybe get lucky that someone already had the Exact same problem you do, but that is not always the case.

Solid quality tools will help, but you have to be able to interpret what the tool is telling you, and you have to know how to use that tool.

Have an intermittent problem??? Holy shit, good luck with that!!! There is nothing a tech enjoys doing more than diagnosing and intermittent issue with a check engine light on a late model car. Most guys would rather poke their own eyes out...

Good mechanics with solid backgrounds will always be in demand.

This. A scanner is of very limited value without an understanding of the system you're working on and good service information. Alldata offers a 1 year subscription for 1 vehicle for something like $25...well worth it.

Intermittents are fun. I had a friend with an old '96 camry that had been to half the shops in town because occasionally it would die and wouldn't restart, or maybe it would. I was able to get it to act up repeatedly and did some quick checks with my old Vantage to determine that it was shutting down the injectors sometimes. I read up on the ignition system and learned that if the ignition feedback was lost, it shuts down fueling, to save the cats. Why was spark going away. I hooked up my 4 channel scope monitoring CMP, CKP, IgF and IgT every night after work for about a week...just sat there drinking beer watching the screen....then it quit. I hit pause and backed up the screen and saw IgT go away first. Opened up the ECM and found a burned coil driver. Swiped one out of another old toyota ECM I happened to have from a car I parted out and soldered it in...problem solved. Over $1000 were paid to shops that didn't take the time to understand what was happening or understand how the system works, and no progress was made...They all had way better tooling than me.
 

rivermobster

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This. A scanner is of very limited value without an understanding of the system you're working on and good service information. Alldata offers a 1 year subscription for 1 vehicle for something like $25...well worth it.

Intermittents are fun. I had a friend with an old '96 camry that had been to half the shops in town because occasionally it would die and wouldn't restart, or maybe it would. I was able to get it to act up repeatedly and did some quick checks with my old Vantage to determine that it was shutting down the injectors sometimes. I read up on the ignition system and learned that if the ignition feedback was lost, it shuts down fueling, to save the cats. Why was spark going away. I hooked up my 4 channel scope monitoring CMP, CKP, IgF and IgT every night after work for about a week...just sat there drinking beer watching the screen....then it quit. I hit pause and backed up the screen and saw IgT go away first. Opened up the ECM and found a burned coil driver. Swiped one out of another old toyota ECM I happened to have from a car I parted out and soldered it in...problem solved. Over $1000 were paid to shops that didn't take the time to understand what was happening or understand how the system works, and no progress was made...They all had way better tooling than me.

I have time to kill waiting on parts, and you will appreciate this...

The RX300 had just come out and I was a shop foreman for Lexus. Some of the cars were coming back with the engine light on, evap code stored in memory.

No faults found. No leaks found. Every system passes it's test. Code cleared, car handed back. Customer was back the next week.

Same checks, Same results. Absolutely nothing wrong found. They eventually bought the car back and the District Rep and I were were both stumped. But now I had time to dig into the car...

We knew it was an evap problem, so I dialed in on that system. I had the breakout box monitoring Everything in that system. The box had a few LED's I could dial into anything that i wanted. I dialed em on on the evap valves, and stated driving the car home. Glendale to Glendora. Lots of time to watch what the system was doing.

So one Cold morning, I'm driving to work across Sierra Madre, early, no traffic, and see both the evap valves switch closed at the same time. FUCK! I freeze, keep my foot on the gas pedal right where it was and I don't move a muscle. I'm watching the valves as they switch back to normal, and the fucking check engine light comes on. SCORE!!!!

Long story short? The computer would run a check on the evap system, ONLY after a cold start, with a steady driving situation in place. If you were in stop and go traffic, the computer would not run this test. (That's why some cars would have this problem , and some cars would not, it just depended on the customers driving conditions).

What was happening on a cold start, was that the fuel in the tank would cool off overnight, and the valve to let the air in the tank would stick closed. The tank would then go into vacuum. When the computer did the test in the morning, and saw the reading too low (due to the vacumm in the tank) it threw and evap system code! The tank sensor was not designed to check that low of a vacuum, so it just knew something was wrong, but had no idea what was wrong. The readings were out of range completely.

We put a separate one way vent on the tank, and no more check engine light cold. The district rep and I were the heros for figuring out this problem. Toyota updated the valve, did a recall, and we all moved on to bigger and better things.

It was sheer dumb luck that we found this. No publication anywhere documented the tests and parmators that would trigger them. I just happened to be in the right place at the right time, and the watching the right evap functions.

Good times! lol
 

SBMech

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It was sheer dumb luck that we found this.

Not true at all, you took an educated guess based upon the codes and how the system works, and why it was trying to do what it did, AND you were monitoring the most likely suspects.

No luck there, just solid diagnostics.

Persistance will trump talent every time. :D
 

rivermobster

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Not true at all, you took an educated guess based upon the codes and how the system works, and why it was trying to do what it did, AND you were monitoring the most likely suspects.

No luck there, just solid diagnostics.

Persistance will trump talent every time. :D

Ha! Absolutely!

I will never be the guy that throws in the towel. I don't care how long it takes me, eventually I Will figure it out! LoL
 

Tueysep

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I think it just support diagnsotic engine code with price $40.
If you want to do ABS system diagnsotic and bleed. Launch CRP429C is right tool.
81skGG57ZjL._SL1500_.jpg
 

Kachina26

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Is there a unit under $250 that you or others would recommend for "Harry the Homeowner Mechanic" who wants to check code and reset a simple check engine light, or ABS, TPMS lights & maybe reset/reboot touch screen stereo or navigation display when it acts up? It would be need to be compatible with these vehicles:
2017 Ram 3500 diesel, 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0 gas, 2012 Chrysler 300 SRT8 w/6.4L Hemi.
The Autel AL & ML Series, Innova, and Bluedriver seem to have good Amazon reviews, any opinions or advice???
Thanks Hud
View attachment 677803
I was looking at that second one. Was hoping to get feedback from someone on it.
 

ka0tyk

Warlock Performance Boats Merchandise Connections
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That's exactly what I'm asking. I had to send my friends ML to another shop to get it done, cause we didn't have late enough software to do it. Maybe I'll have her buy one of those for her car. Thanks!

you're going to want carly for a mercedes, bmw, etc... it'll pull manufacturer codes, coding, odbii, srs, airbags, parking brake, etc. the adapter is like $60 and the software is $59 a year android only.

51189005_10156380808144833_1437320507937521664_o.jpg


50900052_10156380808224833_4479622323900514304_o.jpg


50973577_10156380808389833_4619461837673463808_o.jpg
 

Flying_Lavey

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I just bought a Bosch plug in scanner from O'Reily's on Friday for $107. So far I really like it. It'll do standard codes and ABS as well as live readings. For that price, I figure I can't really go too wrong.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
 

rivermobster

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you're going to want carly for a mercedes, bmw, etc... it'll pull manufacturer codes, coding, odbii, srs, airbags, parking brake, etc. the adapter is like $60 and the software is $59 a year android only.

51189005_10156380808144833_1437320507937521664_o.jpg


50900052_10156380808224833_4479622323900514304_o.jpg


50973577_10156380808389833_4619461837673463808_o.jpg

The shop broke down and upgraded our Snap On scanner/software last month.

But...

It will probably be outdated by the next time she needs brakes.

:rolleyes::p
 

185EZ

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I just need one that will shut down a check engine light long enough to get me through a smog check. I reset it with my reader, but it comes back on immediately. Car is a home depot runner and isn't worth enough to put a lot of money into to fix the actual problem. When it dies, it's going straight to the junk yard.
I think they know if the code has been cancelled and it needs to be over 3 days prior to pass?
 

Mototrig

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I also have the BAFX bluetooth scanner
Amazon had a deal for $14
I use it with Torque lite(free for us cheap bastards) or you can pay for the pro version
Put certain gauges on your phone and view real time data.
Torque-Pro.png
You beat me to it.
X2 for Torque Pro. It can read live data and read codes / clear codes
 

rivermobster

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I just need one that will shut down a check engine light long enough to get me through a smog check. I reset it with my reader, but it comes back on immediately. Car is a home depot runner and isn't worth enough to put a lot of money into to fix the actual problem. When it dies, it's going straight to the junk yard.

I hate to tell you this, but that is NOT going to happen...

When you clear the codes, you also clear the monitors as well. It can sometimes take days for the monitors to reset. The first thing they check is weather the monitors are set, or not.

If it comes back on, Google the code and year, make and model of the car. You could very easily find a fix for whatever problem you have there.

:)
 

SBMech

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I just need one that will shut down a check engine light long enough to get me through a smog check. I reset it with my reader, but it comes back on immediately. Car is a home depot runner and isn't worth enough to put a lot of money into to fix the actual problem. When it dies, it's going straight to the junk yard.

That is not how it works, if your tool can read and reset codes, and they come back immediately, then you have a hard code, it needs to be repaired.

You can sneak by on an evap monitor if you can get the rest of the monitors set, but for ignition/fuel etc a hard code setting that fast means you have to actually fix it.

Post up the year/make/model and build date along with the code. We can try to help you out.
 

Mr. C

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2007, Chevy Trailblazer, 4.2L. It's throwing a P0017 code. Thus far, I have replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor with no luck in clearing the code
OCV ???
What causes the P0017 code?
  • The valve timing is out of position from a timing chain jumped out of position.

  • There are oil flow problems to the phaser from incorrect oil viscosity or partly clogged passages.

  • The oil control valve (OCV) has a restriction in the OCV filter.

  • There is an exhaust timing gear problem with phaser causing camshaft misalignment.
 
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