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Place diverters, educate me

mash on it

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It was stated by @mash on it. I was asking for clarification as to what he was trying to convey as I didn't want to ASSume incorrectly as I can sometimes do.
The pump, a panther, was converted by JBP. (And American Turbine bowl, I believe) It's all new, except the intake housing, meaning the center line of the pump and bowl will be correct, knowing who did the work, That's all.

Dan'l
 

wzuber

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I would recommend a flat plate with no fins hanging down. Their doing virtually nothing beneficial
 

wzuber

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The pump, a panther, was converted by JBP. (And American Turbine bowl, I believe) It's all new, except the intake housing, meaning the center line of the pump and bowl will be correct, knowing who did the work, That's all.

Dan'l
oh..ok thx..
 

mash on it

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I would recommend a flat plate with no fins hanging down. Their doing virtually nothing beneficial
The panther pump doesn't have fins on the intake, like a Berkeley or Jacuzzi pump.

The fins on the ride plate is all it has. This is done quite a bit in comp jet botës.

Panther did this too, on the stock axial flow pumps. I'd keep it, or upgrade it, keeping fins on it.

Ditch pump degenerate.
Dan'l
 

wzuber

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Costs to correct bottom conditions would start at about $500.00 for the most minimal and go up from there on a fully de-rigged boat. Eng., interior, fuel etc removed from hull so it can be flipped over to work on. Done as I described significantly more than the base amount...$3-$4k would be expected.
 

wzuber

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fins it is then. haha so it's really slippery when in a turn and airiates/looses suction......hey look..there goes skippy...
 

brgrcru

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I would take off the rudder. I find it useless .
just a good front and back motion docking and trailering with forward reverse handle.

100% take off those two stiffeners on bottom of ride plate. and flip up on the top side or get rid of them.
usually top speed, is one or two clicks from middle. if its a manual diverter.
 

Carlson-jet

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I did find trim all the way down was smoothest in rough water like a normal out drive
Trim down is also the fastest way to get the bow to roll over on takeoff. Once it's rolled over, an adjustment to neutral position for good water conditions.

Looking good. :cool:
 

jetboatperformance

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The pump, a panther, was converted by JBP. (And American Turbine bowl, I believe) It's all new, except the intake housing, meaning the center line of the pump and bowl will be correct, knowing who did the work, That's all.

Dan'l
The XLerator Panther conversion and The AT version are both our concept/and design , AT built there version , with our agreement according to our basic plans utilizing their parts , our conversion is entirely built from parts we make here at our shop in Atascadero (except the thrust bearing) ... our 17 4 shaft, our billet parts and adapters, our JBP sportsman bowl , our Impellers etc
 

gqchris

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Get rid of the rudder. All they do is get Stuck in the Sand and jam you up. Never made a difference on any of my boats.

As you know, small gas blasts to steer at idle speeds. Great looking float!

And and most of my boats cruised great about 3-4 clicks up from bottom on Diverter. Big roost is only for pictures:)
 

HOOTER SLED-

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The panther pump doesn't have fins on the intake, like a Berkeley or Jacuzzi pump.

The fins on the ride plate is all it has. This is done quite a bit in comp jet botës.

Panther did this too, on the stock axial flow pumps. I'd keep it, or upgrade it, keeping fins on it.

Ditch pump degenerate.
Dan'l
My Panther has fins on the intake
 

Carlson-jet

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4.4 mph per gps increase in speed at the same lake. But with about 150 lbs more on the boat in people vs the other time


Dropped 650 rpm while going faster as well
I think it's cool you are documenting and are aware of the changes.
The lower rpms means you increased efficiency at the pump. That's a good thing.
Nice pics. :cool:

I want to Compliment JBP as well for all the hard work and research in getting this program going. That didn't happen with just a few phone calls. It was real work.;)
 

Blackmagic94

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I think it's cool you are documenting and are aware of the changes.
The lower rpms means you increased efficiency at the pump. That's a good thing.
Nice pics. :cool:

I want to Compliment JBP as well for all the hard work and research in getting this program going. That didn't happen with just a few phone calls. It was real work.;)[/QUOTE


Tom was great and had an open line to my mechanic and myself for help along the way even outside of business hours. I would not hesitate to do business with him again.
 

lantz

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This is just a seat of the pants response: I've got a 93 21' open bow commander with a carbed 454, berkley set back jet and hydraulic place diverter. Nothing blue printed. A lot of leaking parts, and it has seen some beaching and maybe sucking of sand. I've got a rudder that catches on the beach. Reverse works better if it is trimmed all the way down. When I lose the diverter pump, cut hydraulic lines, or use cheap parts on the nozzle and they break because I need to throw it into reverse while coming in hot and they snap, reverse control is gone. I always leave from a dead stop trimmed all the way down, and then go to one of two positions: 1 -- there is a point where the steering cable frees up a little but the boat won't porpoise no matter where people are loaded (you don't have this problem); When there is no one in the front, I can trim up so the side wash moves from where my hand is on the forward/reverse handle to my elbow, and this seems to be where the boat rides right. At the unloaded sweet spot it rides about 200rpm less than the full down trim. When I have 4 people in the front, trim doesn't matter past the point where the steering cable is slightly bound up. Little kids love it when you push it all the way up and wag it.
 

Carlson-jet

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This is just a seat of the pants response: I've got a 93 21' open bow commander with a carbed 454, berkley set back jet and hydraulic place diverter. Nothing blue printed. A lot of leaking parts, and it has seen some beaching and maybe sucking of sand. I've got a rudder that catches on the beach. Reverse works better if it is trimmed all the way down. When I lose the diverter pump, cut hydraulic lines, or use cheap parts on the nozzle and they break because I need to throw it into reverse while coming in hot and they snap, reverse control is gone. I always leave from a dead stop trimmed all the way down, and then go to one of two positions: 1 -- there is a point where the steering cable frees up a little but the boat won't porpoise no matter where people are loaded (you don't have this problem); When there is no one in the front, I can trim up so the side wash moves from where my hand is on the forward/reverse handle to my elbow, and this seems to be where the boat rides right. At the unloaded sweet spot it rides about 200rpm less than the full down trim. When I have 4 people in the front, trim doesn't matter past the point where the steering cable is slightly bound up. Little kids love it when you push it all the way up and wag it.
I actually read this 4 times. o_O
This one of the few posts that focked up a good buzz. :rolleyes:
 

floatn turd

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Hi,
The single biggest performance gain you can achieve for that particular hull & motor combo can be seen below.

No need to thank me.
I'm just glad to help out a fellow Jet boater.















Pour this.......
ci-white-claw-ruby-grapefruit-hard-seltzer-0d22dcf9909dd2a3.jpeg




Into this......
fuel-cap-with-chain.jpg





And receive the Power of this!
pfaff_engine_1200HP_marine.png
 

nowski

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Place Diverters, educate me. Tim and Scott know their shit...
 

wzuber

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Place Diverters, educate me. Tim and Scott know their shit...
your soooo late to the party it was over last month. haha maybe start at the beginning and try again. lol
 

FreeBird236

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I think it's cool you are documenting and are aware of the changes.
The lower rpms means you increased efficiency at the pump. That's a good thing.
Nice pics. :cool:

I want to Compliment JBP as well for all the hard work and research in getting this program going. That didn't happen with just a few phone calls. It was real work.;)
I had a good friend who used the JBP conversion in an 78 Tahiti and it worked extremely well, he's no longer with us, but his daughter has already had the boat out.:cool:
 
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Blackmagic94

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The boat tracks straight now that the rudder was removed and Tom sent me his race ride plate that has deeper fins and straight, the old ride plate had some broken welds and was not true to the hull which may have been one issue with that


So far the boat has gone 70.8 at 5100 rpm on an AA trim, Im considering if a droop snoop would benift this hull
 
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