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Progress on the Rayson craft

stupidbaker57

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I'm getting there. The deck has been painted with faux mahogany finish. Next I'll be laying down some rolex gold flake where the yellow paint is now. It should be on the trailer next week waiting for the engine paint job 001.jpg paint job 002.jpg
 

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Deangang

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Looks great lets see more pix and info :thumbsup
 

waterhorse

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I'm interested in the faux mahogany, I've thought about doing this. Are you using paint / shades and then clear coat?
Looks good. :thumbup:
 

stupidbaker57

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I'm interested in the faux mahogany, I've thought about doing this. Are you using paint / shades and then clear coat?
Looks good. :thumbup:

I used a product from Old Masters. It is a 2 step process in which you lay down a first coat of base color, then you apply the glaze with a brush. I didn't like the base color for mahogany since it would make the color too red. Instead I used the yellow in the pictures. It is also the base color for the flake. The grain effect comes from using a brush or tools to get the design of grain you want. I used the graining tool and didn't like the "boards" look. Just using a dry brush and streaking it in the direction that you want the grain to be in looked better to me. There's a number of vids on you tube to show you how. After the flake gets laid, I'll be clearing it all.
 

stupidbaker57

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The last two pictures were my first attempt. The wood design I was going with wouldn't look right to me, so I did it over.
 

stupidbaker57

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You still looking for a good prop?

Yes I am. I still haven't worked out a dia/pitch yet. The engine looks like it will have 450/475 HP at 6000. The shaft angle is 12 with 15 gears. I already have a 12/15 3 blader that came with the boat. I was going to run it for a test and go from there.
 

franger

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I replied on your prop thread with pics and info of my prop.
 

stupidbaker57

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I replied on your prop thread with pics and info of my prop.

I'll keep you in mind. I am looking for a 3 blader, but with the price, if yours will work out with my combo, then I'll be calling.
 

Rickybobby

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Nice boat, and I am intrigued by your faux woodgrain process. I know where a full on resto is underway on a similar boat. I will see if I can get some pic's to use as a comparison. Very nice work.
 

franger

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I'll keep you in mind. I am looking for a 3 blader, but with the price, if yours will work out with my combo, then I'll be calling.

Prop sold last week, whatever prop you get, 2 or 3 blade go with a steel and not chromed, it weakens them ..... do yourself a favor, call Harold Kindsvater he built Stellings props for Jack Davidson (Sanger Boats) he owned and built Menkens Props for YEARS and currently ownes and makes Radice Propellers ....... he is a wealth of info 559-299-2328
 

Slippery

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Very cool Rayson - I'm glad you saved it.

Just a couple things that nobody has mentioned yet, or if they have I haven't seen it:

A down pedal is really nice to have & the time to think about that if budget allows is before the boat is all put together.

More important - does the boat have a prop release ? I have a 62 Howard with a warm 468 BBC that doesn't have one - I don't believe anyone makes one for a parallel drive - I make sure if I'm doing anything but pulling skiers or just cruising I'm wearing a live vest. Without a shaft release your boat is going to want to hook under sudden deceleration ...too fast and at best you're going swimming....if the motor shuts off while you're really airing it out? Find some video of vintage drag racing and you'll see what I mean...

Don't forget a kill switch and throttle return springs on the carb.

Last - damn I hate to bring this up 'cause I know someone is going to give me a hard time over it....your motor is going to sit farther aft because of the back seat ...make sure there is a check ball in the bilge pump line...I had an intermittent leak I couldn't find that was driving me batshit nuts..how can it leak but not leak all the time? .it got so bad we yanked the motor, filled the hull up with a hose, drank beer & watched for leaks. Nothin. Nothin? WTF? Put the motor back in - still had a leak..turned out when the fuel tanks were full or when i was leaning over the transom looking for where the water was coming in the stern was low enough that the bilge outlet submerged and water was back flowing through the line and the bilge pump. It's pretty funny now...

Speaking of leaks...if you're running a tranny be really careful backing up or you'll sink & make sure you're not in reverse when you take off.. a tranny I believe will function as a prop release but check to be sure.

Have Fun...I wish I had the talent & the time to do what you're doing..

s
 

stupidbaker57

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paint job in clear 007.jpg paint job in clear.jpg paint job in clear 004.jpg I just finished the final coat of clear. In week or so I'll be putting it on the trailer and stat re-rigging it. The engine is comming along at the machine shop also. As for a down pedal,,,,,well,,,I built one. It will get powdercoated before installing.
 

fmo24

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Wow. Boat is looking good. I showed a couple people and they thought your deck was would. They were amazed it was paint.
 

stupidbaker57

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Wow. Boat is looking good. I showed a couple people and they thought your deck was would. They were amazed it was paint.

Not to get of topic, but I see you're in Lake Havasu. I built a Harley trike that ended up there and the new owner was trying to sell it for around 7K. I wonder if it's even been seen. It was a 86 Harley sporty that was built to a true trike (no training wheels). It had the traditional sporty tank and was painted pearl pink on the tank and 3 fenders. It was built for m GF, but she'd rather ride on back of mine. (damn)
 

coolchange

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Seriously nice job on the wood deck. About that down pedal, have you had any experience with cavatation hdwr before? Imagine if you were to mount the lever solidly, and jump on the pedal has hard as you could, thats the kind of loads that pedal see's on a regular basis.
<<<< As you can see, I'll be following your project!
 

stupidbaker57

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Seriously nice job on the wood deck. About that down pedal, have you had any experience with cavatation hdwr before? Imagine if you were to mount the lever solidly, and jump on the pedal has hard as you could, thats the kind of loads that pedal see's on a regular basis.
<<<< As you can see, I'll be following your project!

The long rod from the transom to the down pedal runs right past the cavitation lever which only holds the plate at a preset postion. The boat is not going racing. I don't expect to use the pedal alot.
 

stupidbaker57

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down pedal 002.jpg Here's a shot of the down pedal I designed and built. I put the seat in and tried it out and it seemes to work very good, considering that I spent 2 days and less than 2 bucks on it. I'll powder coat the parts tommorrow and start on the steering cables. down pedal 001.jpg Like I've may have stated before,,,,,I'm not looking for a show boat, altho I would like to have one, I am building this to use and abuse. I've added up my slips for this "project" and came out under $3500, and that includes the purchuse price of the boat, motor, and trailer.
 

stupidbaker57

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shotgun 046.jpg

I got the boat out yesterday and getting ready to put all the shinny stuff on. Next is gas tanks that I built. The engine will be going back together this coming week. The trailer will be much later.
 

RiverDave

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That is coming out pretty freakin sweet!! Especially for 3500? Damn!

RD
 

Sharp Shooter

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Without a shaft release your boat is going to want to hook under sudden deceleration ...too fast and at best you're going swimming....

Not necessarily...I agree that everyone should utilize a prop release but I've driven and owned boats without prop releases and none of them wanted to "hook" under decel... Just sayin.

Good luck with the Rayson stupidbaker57. :)
 
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