Project: 240 Hallett engine rebuild

[85RiverRAT]

Dropped the boat off at GT Performance this afternoon.

I want to periodically update the progress in this thread. As things happen, you all in the river community can check in on the restoration.

We are having the engine and drive rebuilt.

1995 502 MAG, Bravo 3 just past the 500 hour mark. She's been running a little "cranky" the past few seasons.

The plan is to clean up everything, typical machine work, a few speed parts, CMI headers, cam, etc.
looking to land in the 500-550 hp range.

GT is going to look the boat over and, we should start disassembly in a week or two.

We are super stoked to have this done, and to run with fresh power for the 2013 season. Stay Tuned!!!:thumbup:

 

[BMABITY]

Thanks for sharing, threads like these always give some good information. :thumbup:

 

[YoPengo]

Subscribed.

<<<240 owner with a 502 mag.


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[Lunatic Fringe]

Are you staying with the Bravo 3 drive?

 

[Hallett270act]

I subscribed too. Be sure to post up pics. Congratulations!


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[RiverDave]

Dropped the boat off at GT Performance this afternoon.

I want to periodically update the progress in this thread. As things happen, you all in the river community can check in on the restoration.

We are having the engine and drive rebuilt.

1995 502 MAG, Bravo 3 just past the 500 hour mark. She's been running a little "cranky" the past few seasons.

The plan is to clean up everything, typical machine work, a few speed parts, CMI headers, cam, etc.
looking to land in the 500-550 hp range.

GT is going to look the boat over and, we should start disassembly in a week or two.

We are super stoked to have this done, and to run with fresh power for the 2013 season. Stay Tuned!!!:thumbup:

Will you be upgrading the B3 into an XR B3?

RD

 

[B---S---]

<<<< 1992 240s closed deck stock merc 502 carb owner

 

[85RiverRAT]

Are you staying with the Bravo 3 drive?

RD, asked the same question.

Right now we are staying with the stock Bravo 3. We don't chase DCB's up and down the lake so we feel like we can Hot Rod the engine a little and still run the Bravo 3. (BTW. M-41 looks awesome)

We spent alot of time looking at the forums, and blogs. There are guys putting alot of power through stock drives. We were talking with another 240 owner this summer. He is running a 540, 600HP through a stock bravo 1, no problems.

GT advised, that we can add the power and still be okay on the drive. The bravo 3 has been great to us for 13 years, so we will just see how it goes for now.

The way the bravo three handles around the docks, pulls skiers and boarders, and the economy are bigger items in our book than gaining at the top end with a newer series Bravo 3 or Bravo 1 swap. we don't spend a ton of time at WOT.

 

[PVHCA]

The drive should be ok, just don't hammer it from a dead start and don't sky the boat. All good!!

Good luck with the new build!!

 

[85RiverRAT]

RD, asked the same question.

Right now we are staying with the stock Bravo 3. We don't chase DCB's up and down the lake so we feel like we can Hot Rod the engine a little and still run the Bravo 3. (BTW. M-41 looks awesome)

We spent alot of time looking at the forums, and blogs. There are guys putting alot of power through stock drives. We were talking with another 240 owner this summer. He is running a 540, 600HP through a stock bravo 1, no problems.

GT advised, that we can add the power and still be okay on the drive. The bravo 3 has been great to us for 13 years, so we will just see how it goes for now.

The way the bravo three handles around the docks, pulls skiers and boarders, and the economy are bigger items in our book than gaining at the top end with a newer series Bravo 3 or Bravo 1 swap. we don't spend a ton of time at WOT.

So here is another twist on this.

We can't install a new (Swept back) Bravo XR upper onto our 1995 transom assembly. We would have to have the new Mercury Magnum transom assembly installed, to run with a new XR Upper. I did alot of research on the subject. I forget the exact cut off in the Serial Numbers, but either way, our transom assembly/outdrive is about 2 generations to old, to be compatible with new equipment. The whole thing needs to be replaced to run a newer outdrive.

New transom assembly runs $1,700, This is the inner and outer transom plates, rear motor mount, trim cylinders, and gimbal bearing support as a complete assembly.
New Bravo XR Upper runs $3,500-5,000
New Bravo 3 XR or 1 XR Lower runs $3,500-5,000

So, quick math, a new drive is in the ballpark of $8,700-$11,700, plus installation cost. We are anticipating spending $3,000-$4,000 on a complete rebuild of our current drive. So the savings is hard to pass on. The inner replacement parts are still in good supply for the most part, so the old Bravo 3 will be good to go.

 

[Hammer]

My father has had 3 Blower motors in his 1990 240s stock bravo 1 outdrive , only thing he's done is put a nose cone on it and external steering. Right now it has a blown 540. I'd assume its around 100HP and hasn't had any issues with the drive , motor has been in it for a good 5 years. As PVHCA stated, don't hammer it out of the hole and ease into WOT and it should be ok.

 

[Lunatic Fringe]

I didn't doubt the B3 would hold up, your not that heavy and not running crazy HP, I just wondered about prop selection and availability for the higher pitch you will need.
As long as you don't have to go past 30P it should be a great set-up.:thumbsup

 

[JBS]

My father has had 3 Blower motors in his 1990 240s stock bravo 1 outdrive , only thing he's done is put a nose cone on it and external steering. Right now it has a blown 540. I'd assume its around 100HP and hasn't had any issues with the drive , motor has been in it for a good 5 years. As PVHCA stated, don't hammer it out of the hole and ease into WOT and it should be ok.

No need for your Vest in that boat

 

[Hammer]

No need for your Vest in that boat

Nope, it hasn't seen the water in 2+ years unfortunately, hoping to change that this year, highly unlikely though

 

[Cole Trickle]

No need for your Vest in that boat

lol....over the head

 

[djunkie]

lol....over the head

:thumbsup


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[Hammer]

lol....over the head

Who me ? I'm confused , fill me In please

 

[djunkie]

Who me ? I'm confused , fill me In please

Your dads blown 540 makes about 1/6th the power my naturally aspirated 496 makes.


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[Hammer]

Your dads blown 540 makes about 1/6th the power my naturally aspirated 496 makes.


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Probably , I dunno if it even fire..

 

[djunkie]

Probably , I dunno if it even fire..

Go back and re read post 11 ya big dummy.

 

[Hammer]

Go back and re read post 11 ya big dummy.

Doh !!!

 

[Hammer]

Ill be quiet now, carry on don't mind me....

 

[85RiverRAT]

Okay Fellas,

Here are some before pictures. This is a pretty "run of the mill" 502 Mag. We took great care of it, but wear and tear of a fun well used boat seemed to finally catch up. :cool I also took some dash board pictures because I maybe putting some new gauges in, to both update the look of the interior and to keep tabs on the new POWER!!

 

[85RiverRAT]

I didn't doubt the B3 would hold up, your not that heavy and not running crazy HP, I just wondered about prop selection and availability for the higher pitch you will need.
As long as you don't have to go past 30P it should be a great set-up.:thumbsup

True and True. So, we have run a set of 3x3 28P Steel Props from Mercury all along. Top Speed was 65MPH near redline.

Hill Propellers in Santa Ana, has a custom line called Signature Propellers. We talked to them about this project, they are going to come out with a 30P set.
They are selling their "FOUR x 4" Bravo III and Volvo Penta props. Both fore and aft props have 4 propeller blades. It looks like a death machine with EIGHT blades. With the extra horsepower and torque coming with the rebuild they think the 30's would be a good match.

For now we are going to get 28's tuned up and cleaned up to start with. If the performance is hurting we will look at a these 30P Props. The few blogs out there seem to show nice results.

 

[85RiverRAT]

Dropped the boat off at GT Performance this afternoon.

I want to periodically update the progress in this thread. As things happen, you all in the river community can check in on the restoration.

We are having the engine and drive rebuilt.

1995 502 MAG, Bravo 3 just past the 500 hour mark. She's been running a little "cranky" the past few seasons.

The plan is to clean up everything, typical machine work, a few speed parts, CMI headers, cam, etc.
looking to land in the 500-550 hp range.

GT is going to look the boat over and, we should start disassembly in a week or two.

We are super stoked to have this done, and to run with fresh power for the 2013 season. Stay Tuned!!!:thumbup:

**UPDATE February 03, 2013**

The quote is finally settled. We were out at GT yesterday, and put down a deposit to have the work started. They will start pulling the motor next week.

Here is a run down on the engine work. We are paying for DYNO tuning, so I will report back with HP and Torque #'s, and video if I can get it.

- .030" Cylinder Bore, so we will have a 4.5" Bore for 509 CUBE's.
- Port and Polish the heads
- Port match the intake runners
- New camshaft. (no specs. yet, but something similar to a 500EFI, 525EFI on duration, LSA, and Valve Lift)
- New full Roller Valve train. the stock 1995's are flat tappet cams and lifters so this will be cool.
- IMCO Powerflow manifolds with Polished SS S-pipe. The CMI's Sport Tubes, would have needed custom tail pipes and it blew our budget a little.
- New Fuel system. Aeromotive Electric pump, billet filter and pressure regulator, with a return line to the tank. The VST and Mechanical lift pump are being ditched.
- New Gear sets, bellows, gimbal bearing, shafts and seals for the Bravo III.

The rest of the job is typical R&R on the motor.
- Starter
- Belts
- Water pump(s)
- Alternator Rebuild
- Bunch of MISC items that are just in need of repair or replacement.
- Props are being tuned up at Hill Propellers.
- New Gauges are going to have to be the next project.

The job is underway.:thumbsup Looking around 6 weeks to have the boat back.

There was a ton of serious boats and killer toys sitting around the lot, a bunch of Hallett's too, makes us feel cool sticking our 240 into the mix.

Here is a picture of our Hallett. Tied up in Dry Rock Creek at Powell.

 

[Wombat]

No need for your Vest in that boat

I think that one flew well over the head.

 

[OCMerrill]

What work will be done to the fuel injection system?

 

[85RiverRAT]

What work will be done to the fuel injection system?

It will use the stock fuel rail, GT is going to "clean and flow" all the fuel injectors. There is a new flame arrestor being added to the throttle body. I think any ECU and EFI system changes/adjustments will be done when they run the engine on the DYNO. The tuning session should get it running with the new camshaft.

The biggest thing for the fuel system is getting rid of the VST, and upgrading to a newer electric pump. All the wiring and the computer are staying the same.

 

[OCMerrill]

It will use the stock fuel rail, GT is going to "clean and flow" all the fuel injectors. There is a new flame arrestor being added to the throttle body. I think any ECU and EFI system changes/adjustments will be done when they run the engine on the DYNO. The tuning session should get it running with the new camshaft.

The biggest thing for the fuel system is getting rid of the VST, and upgrading to a newer electric pump. All the wiring and the computer are staying the same.

Sounds great. What a cool build and thanks for sharing it. Weather people reply or not just know folks are reading it.:thumbsup

 

[Hallett270act]

**UPDATE February 03, 2013**

The quote is finally settled. We were out at GT yesterday, and put down a deposit to have the work started. They will start pulling the motor next week.

Here is a run down on the engine work. We are paying for DYNO tuning, so I will report back with HP and Torque #'s, and video if I can get it.

- .030" Cylinder Bore, so we will have a 4.5" Bore for 509 CUBE's.
- Port and Polish the heads
- Port match the intake runners
- New camshaft. (no specs. yet, but something similar to a 500EFI, 525EFI on duration, LSA, and Valve Lift)
- New full Roller Valve train. the stock 1995's are flat tappet cams and lifters so this will be cool.
- IMCO Powerflow manifolds with Polished SS S-pipe. The CMI's Sport Tubes, would have needed custom tail pipes and it blew our budget a little.
- New Fuel system. Aeromotive Electric pump, billet filter and pressure regulator, with a return line to the tank. The VST and Mechanical lift pump are being ditched.
- New Gear sets, bellows, gimbal bearing, shafts and seals for the Bravo III.

The rest of the job is typical R&R on the motor.
- Starter
- Belts
- Water pump(s)
- Alternator Rebuild
- Bunch of MISC items that are just in need of repair or replacement.
- Props are being tuned up at Hill Propellers.
- New Gauges are going to have to be the next project.

The job is underway.:thumbsup Looking around 6 weeks to have the boat back.

There was a ton of serious boats and killer toys sitting around the lot, a bunch of Hallett's too, makes us feel cool sticking our 240 into the mix.

Here is a picture of our Hallett. Tied up in Dry Rock Creek at Powell.

View attachment 248214

Nice looking Hallett! Good luck with the build.


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[Lunatic Fringe]

True and True. So, we have run a set of 3x3 28P Steel Props from Mercury all along. Top Speed was 65MPH near redline.

Hill Propellers in Santa Ana, has a custom line called Signature Propellers. We talked to them about this project, they are going to come out with a 30P set.
They are selling their "FOUR x 4" Bravo III and Volvo Penta props. Both fore and aft props have 4 propeller blades. It looks like a death machine with EIGHT blades. With the extra horsepower and torque coming with the rebuild they think the 30's would be a good match.

For now we are going to get 28's tuned up and cleaned up to start with. If the performance is hurting we will look at a these 30P Props. The few blogs out there seem to show nice results.
View attachment 244828

That's an impressive set there.
I'll be curious to hear how they work out.
I just assumed stepping up from 28 to 30 would not be enough with the HP gains you are looking at but twin 4 blades could be the ticket.:thumbsup
Keep the pics and info coming. This is WAY more interesting than some of the tabloid stuff being posted.

 

[85RiverRAT]

Nice looking Hallett! Good luck with the build.


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Thanks! I'll keep the updates coming as things happen.

 

[Paul65k]

Sounds great. What a cool build and thanks for sharing it. Weather people reply or not just know folks are reading it.:thumbsup

Yup spot on.....keep the pics and info coming.......looks really cool:thumbsup

 

[Trash]

It will use the stock fuel rail, GT is going to "clean and flow" all the fuel injectors. There is a new flame arrestor being added to the throttle body. I think any ECU and EFI system changes/adjustments will be done when they run the engine on the DYNO. The tuning session should get it running with the new camshaft.

The biggest thing for the fuel system is getting rid of the VST, and upgrading to a newer electric pump. All the wiring and the computer are staying the same.

Do you know what size and brand the injectors are now? I'm curious because this is similar to a project I did.

Are you going to get baseline numbers (A/F ratio, HP / TQ) on the first run with a stock tune before remapping?

Is your controller a MEFI-1, 2 or 3?

Looking forward to the results. Good luck.

 

[85RiverRAT]

Do you know what size and brand the injectors are now? I'm curious because this is similar to a project I did.

Are you going to get baseline numbers (A/F ratio, HP / TQ) on the first run with a stock tune before remapping?

Is your controller a MEFI-1, 2 or 3?

Looking forward to the results. Good luck.

I know the least about this part of my motor so, I don't really know what the plan is. We are relying on GT to sort it out, is the short version.

Anytime I have seen a new engine on the DYNO, 1st run sets the rings and initial timing, 2nd run starts chasing the A/F ratio, and timing curves like you said. "Go For Broke" on the later runs for the Peak Power #'s.
I am in the dark on the re-flash capability of the early MEFI systems. I know it can be done, and we're not really anticipating having to change to a MEFI-3 or MEFI-4.

I did some diggin' just now. Looks like 1995 Merc motors have the MEFI-1 ECU with (GM 93 Software).

For fuel injectors looks like it is a Rochester (Delphi) 37-45 LB injector (805225A 1 Injector Assembly; found this on a number of sites). It seems to have been on number of small and big block motors. GT said nothing about needing to step up to a larger size. If we were supercharging the engine this may have come into play.

Neither the Fuel Injectors or the ECU have been touched in 18 years, whatever Merc installed is whats on the motor now.

Thanks for the posts everyone!

 

[Trash]

I know the least about this part of my motor so, I don't really know what the plan is. We are relying on GT to sort it out, is the short version.

Anytime I have seen a new engine on the DYNO, 1st run sets the rings and initial timing, 2nd run starts chasing the A/F ratio, and timing curves like you said. "Go For Broke" on the later runs for the Peak Power #'s.
I am in the dark on the re-flash capability of the early MEFI systems. I know it can be done, and we're not really anticipating having to change to a MEFI-3 or MEFI-4.

I did some diggin' just now. Looks like 1995 Merc motors have the MEFI-1 ECU with (GM 93 Software).

For fuel injectors looks like it is a Rochester (Delphi) 37-45 LB injector (805225A 1 Injector Assembly; found this on a number of sites). It seems to have been on number of small and big block motors. GT said nothing about needing to step up to a larger size. If we were supercharging the engine this may have come into play.

Neither the Fuel Injectors or the ECU have been touched in 18 years, whatever Merc installed is whats on the motor now.

Thanks for the posts everyone!

I'm running a MEFI 1 on a 1995 SBC motor, so that's what I suspected you had but they rapidly switched to MEFI-2 (rare) and MEFI-3 stuff shortly after that.

My stock Merc injectors were 24lb Keihin units (Honda injectors).

FWIW, my MEFI controller was NOT password protected. I was able to download and save the stock tune.

Again I wish you the best of luck and look forward to hearing/seeing more of the results.

 

[85RiverRAT]

Just a picture from last Saturday.

Sitting in the lot at GT Performance. The guys covered it up good with plastic over the canvas cover, they even put some poles in the boat to keep the water running off. I really appreciated it :thumbup:. It rained pretty good a couple of weeks ago.

The boat has always been double covered or stored indoors. I think it stayed dry through the rain.

 

[Andy B.]

I would like to have mine done, my buddy is getting his done at Skull Marine in Boulder city. Any recomondations, I don't have the ability to remove motor so it has to be a FULL SERVICE place.:thumbsup

 

[85RiverRAT]

I'm running a MEFI 1 on a 1995 SBC motor, so that's what I suspected you had but they rapidly switched to MEFI-2 (rare) and MEFI-3 stuff shortly after that.

My stock Merc injectors were 24lb Keihin units (Honda injectors).

FWIW, my MEFI controller was NOT password protected. I was able to download and save the stock tune.

Again I wish you the best of luck and look forward to hearing/seeing more of the results.

Thanks, and that is interesting, I didn't come across any Keihin injectors. At first glance, IMO, the stock 502 injector looks to have enough "range" to still be okay for the higher horsepower. I think boosted applications would warrant new injectors for this motor.

There is an OffshoreOnly thread about the MEFI controllers. This guy with a 27 Fountain, same 502 engine that we have, he went on for PAGES about the tuner, wiring, programming etc. I think it became either an obsession or his inner demon, maybe both.

The only time I have seen a connection point on this engine was when the mechanic at Savage Marine in Havasu showed us the hook up cable. It was a one wire deal. I assume GT would have a reader, and whatever cable is needed to download the stock program and reflash the controller to set up a new tune.

 

[85RiverRAT]

I would like to have mine done, my buddy is getting his done at Skull Marine in Boulder city. Any recomondations, I don't have the ability to remove motor so it has to be a FULL SERVICE place.:thumbsup

I'm not sure what shops are around Vegas or Henderson. We were looking mostly in the Southern California area. A lot of the other shops that pop-up in searches are east of the Colorado River. We feel lucky, for us GT is 45 mins from the house.

Most shops that are Mercury Certified or Ilmor Certified, will know enough about doing custom work. Reputation goes a long way. There were some no-name places we looked into and we turned away, because it was to foreign.
Big names are the places like Boost Power (Newbury Park), Teague Custom Marine (Valencia), GT Performance (Upland) , ECM (San Diego). I found a CBM Motorsports (Rancho Cucamonga). Lots of neat stuff on the CBM Site, I'm sure the sand sport people know this shop but not a lot of history with the performance marine industry. Try to stay away from automotive shops, is a golden rule, everyone will tell you that, marine engines are a whole different animal, to make them last, for example the Hot Rod, and Muscle Car shops. A 500 HP street/strip motor is not the same in a Boat. Just gotta do your homework.

 

[85RiverRAT]

*UPDATE February 11, 2013*

Picked the props up today. They look pretty sweet, the polished finish is amazing. These were brushed/satin finished before the tune up. Thanks Hill Propellers. Enjoy. :thumbsup

 

[Trash]

I would like to have mine done, my buddy is getting his done at Skull Marine in Boulder city. Any recomondations, I don't have the ability to remove motor so it has to be a FULL SERVICE place.:thumbsup

I don't have any recommendations in your area, however, I was able to pull my motor solo with a little engineering. It was daunting at first but turned out to be pretty easy. Save around $2k pulling, tearing down and reinstalling the motor myself.

Build or rent a gantry, get a chain fall and hoist away. When I pulled my motor I started around 0900 and by 1400 the motor was out, on a stand and in the garage. This was completely solo and included a lunch break, nose picking etc.

 

[Trash]

Thanks, and that is interesting, I didn't come across any Keihin injectors. At first glance, IMO, the stock 502 injector looks to have enough "range" to still be okay for the higher horsepower. I think boosted applications would warrant new injectors for this motor.

There is an OffshoreOnly thread about the MEFI controllers. This guy with a 27 Fountain, same 502 engine that we have, he went on for PAGES about the tuner, wiring, programming etc. I think it became either an obsession or his inner demon, maybe both.

The only time I have seen a connection point on this engine was when the mechanic at Savage Marine in Havasu showed us the hook up cable. It was a one wire deal. I assume GT would have a reader, and whatever cable is needed to download the stock program and reflash the controller to set up a new tune.

From the limited data I've gathered they only used the Keihin injector on the small blocks and for a limited time frame. If you know the injectors flow rating you can calculate the HP the injector will carry at 80% duty cycle. I had 24 lb injectors which were good through roughly 310-320 crank HP at 80% DC. I was gunning for more than that and upped the injector to a 42# unit (RC Engineering in Torrance). This gave me lots of head room but I can still control the idle.

To connect to the MEFI unit there is a DLC (data link connector) connection underneath the flip cover that holds much of the electronics on your motor. This is the connector you use to hook up a code reader, jumper to set base timing or flash the ECM if using software like MEFIBurn. Not sure what GT is using for the tuning but it would be via the DLC. I did all my own tuning. Lots of fun...seriously.

Looking forward to seeing more of your project.

 

[C-2]

I don't have any recommendations in your area, however, I was able to pull my motor solo with a little engineering. It was daunting at first but turned out to be pretty easy. Save around $2k pulling, tearing down and reinstalling the motor myself.

Build or rent a gantry, get a chain fall and hoist away. When I pulled my motor I started around 0900 and by 1400 the motor was out, on a stand and in the garage. This was completely solo and included a lunch break, nose picking etc.

We somewhat did the same, WSUWHR came over and devised a plan to build a rig in my garage rafters, and we actually lifted my 210 off its trailer so I could get it repainted. Standard, K&B tract home, with a hoist and straps.

I yanked the motor with a cherry picker.

 

[Andy B.]

Thanks for the info. Can't wait to see the numbers on your new motor, btw nice boat!

 

[Trash]

We somewhat did the same, WSUWHR came over and devised a plan to build a rig in my garage rafters, and we actually lifted my 210 off its trailer so I could get it repainted. Standard, K&B tract home, with a hoist and straps.

I yanked the motor with a cherry picker.

I would have gone the cherry picker route but that wouldn't reach high enough. Took a 12 ft high gantry in my application but I had room in my side yard. $120 in lumber and parts and another $50 or so for a 1 ton chain fall.

 

[Racey]

I would like to have mine done, my buddy is getting his done at Skull Marine in Boulder city. Any recomondations, I don't have the ability to remove motor so it has to be a FULL SERVICE place.:thumbsup

First off i would avoid skull marine at ALL COSTS, i don't want to start any public shop bashing, so take this as just a friendly recommendation, my personal & professional opinion would be to go somewhere else. If you want details you can PM me.


If you are looking for a motor freshen up in Boulder/Henderson/Vegas i would recommend 2 shops, Dunsmore, or the Miller's at All Seasons Marine. Both are great shops, honest, I'd trust either of those guys with the keys to my shop and anything else i owned. They do excellent work in those areas.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

:thumbsupthumbsup

 

[Andy B.]

:thumbsupthumbsup

That settles it, GT is to long of a drive or maybe wait a year and save the extra money and pull the motor myself. I'll get Dixie 6 to help me next winter, did you hear that Walt!!

 

[RiverDave]

I'm not sure what shops are around Vegas or Henderson. We were looking mostly in the Southern California area. A lot of the other shops that pop-up in searches are east of the Colorado River. We feel lucky, for us GT is 45 mins from the house.

Most shops that are Mercury Certified or Ilmor Certified, will know enough about doing custom work. Reputation goes a long way. There were some no-name places we looked into and we turned away, because it was to foreign.
Big names are the places like Boost Power (Newbury Park), Teague Custom Marine (Valencia), GT Performance (Upland) , ECM (San Diego). I found a CBM Motorsports (Rancho Cucamonga). Lots of neat stuff on the CBM Site, I'm sure the sand sport people know this shop but not a lot of history with the performance marine industry. Try to stay away from automotive shops, is a golden rule, everyone will tell you that, marine engines are a whole different animal, to make them last, for example the Hot Rod, and Muscle Car shops. A 500 HP street/strip motor is not the same in a Boat. Just gotta do your homework.

CBM does more offroad and street stuff I thought?

RD