WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Project Edge Stealth Jet

Fonz69

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So had a couple hours today and got to play in the shop. My red washers from Eddie Marine arrived today so I installed them even though it will all come back apart for powder coating at some point and time I will be able to make sure it’s all test fitted and ready to bag up when the time comes.
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So after seeing the damage I found to the original wiring that ran down the side of the boat I had an idea about using commercial flexible conduit to act as a chase to protect the wires and make it easier in the future to fish extra wires if needed. Here are a few pics of the start of that idea.
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Now I am not 100% sure where the battery and everything will be yet so I might just leave it long until I lock down where it all will be placed but it does sit very nice up inside on the starboard side. Previously it ran down the port side but that has the steering, forward/reverse cable and the wet speedo line so it was getting a little tight. Since I am thinking about setting the battery on the starboard side it made sense also.
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Little mock up of the motor plates that I cut and cleaned up the rough edges a bit. Ordered some more 4x3 angle to make some brackets for the fuel tank, last ones weighed about 10 lbs!! I know I can do better, granted I don’t have a fancy lathe, bridgeport or Cnc just my bandsaw and 1” detail sander but it will be nice when it’s done.

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Now here’s a question for any fiberglass guys, what exactly is the material I am seeing under the top deck? It doesn’t seem to be balsa and looks to be perforated. It’s located around flat areas seeming like it’s to help reinforce for anyone stepping on the deck? Any ideas?
 

Headless hula

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Its called core mat. I believe it acts like a mini core, spacing out the laminations of glass giving the panel more rigidity.

I'm not sure what its actually made of, but comes in rolls and resembles a pig mat like what's used for absorbing oil. John over at recon uses it.
 

footer

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Its called core mat. I believe it acts like a mini core, spacing out the laminations of glass giving the panel more rigidity.

I'm not sure what its actually made of, but comes in rolls and resembles a pig mat like what's used for absorbing oil. John over at recon uses it.
It also helps prevent the glass fibers from "printing" through the gel. That's why you see it on the deck.
 

Fonz69

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So I was able to work a little more in the shop this weekend and even though I was not planning on buying anymore parts the right deal came along for more pump parts I really couldn’t pass up.
Ended up with a new Dominator 9 1/2” bowl that was flowed and worked over by Duane at Hi Techperformance along with a stuffer installed, primeajet and powder coated inside and out.
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Also the HM inducer, shaft and a Dominator stainless AA impeller that was worked on by MPD then indexed by Duane.
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I had to make a tool in order to measure the keel in relation to the shoe bitting edge, nothing fancy but it works nice.
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Checking the shoe ends up at .594
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Added a shim that was .031
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So ended up with .625 which was in the range to start with that Jeff Bennett recommended for my hull and his keel work. (Each boat will be different depending on weight, power, etc.)
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Installed the bowl on the suction and then used the ride plate that came with the intake to help mock up the cradle to the bowl as the one that was on the bowl would not work for my application. I used some cheap transfer buttons you can get at Menards for $10 for a whole set of different sizes.
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Had to cut out a section of the trailer, I have plans to modify the frame to make it easier to work on the pump and intake I guess today was the day I had enough of it being in the way!!
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Started to chop and cut on my section of aluminum channel that I bought to make a ride plate out of. My thought process was it is rigid without needing to drill a bunch of holes to make angle rails on the flat plate that came with the intake. Now I do not have a lathe or Bridgeport so a jigsaw, sawsall, and sander are my hack tools to make this work....
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Now time to attach the cradle to the plate.

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Now time to check the angles on the bottom of the boat.
Referencing the intake and setting 0.0
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Checking the shoe degree of taper, 1 degree
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Next is the starting point for the ride plate at 2 degrees.
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Checking and locating the deepest area of the keel.
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Ended up with .229” up for the shoe bitting edge in relation to the keel. Time will tell where it ends up after I add power and test in the future but now I have a starting point.

I still need to decide if the plate needs to be milled down as it’s about 1/16” wider on each side of the shoe, might taper it out or bite the bullet and take it to a local shop and have it milled down, enough fun for one day.
 

Fonz69

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So I gave a little more attention to the trailer the other day and set the plan in motion I had to be able to tie the back down without going around the pump and still using the trailer without blocking the rear lights. These are Boat Buckle Brand retractable tie downs that have a 1400# break strength each.
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Now time to fill in the frame where I cut the center out of to be able to work on the pump easier and be able to change hardware at a race if needed.
I used the cutoff pieces to make the filler plates.
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A little primer for now.
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Fonz69

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A little more work on the trailer.
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I was not happy to see old 3/4” plywood above the trailer bunks and rusted half falling out lag bolts so I made some aluminum shims and swapped all of the out. The reason for the heights change is the trailer was not original to the boat and the intake fins would not clear the frame crossmember hence the plywood blocking.
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Made a few modifications to my race loader per recommendations from a very reliable source. Welded and cleaned up the edges.
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A little concerned with clearance to the fuel cell and the blower belt as the last motor was blown but not a 14/71 so I am researching distance from the motor plates to the outside edge of the blower belt with an alternator pulley included to make sure it will all clear before I continue making the new fuel cell brackets.
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So I started to mock-up the seats, steering and throttle and was not crazy about the location of the kill switch behind the steering wheel. Not sure what the thought process was there but it would be in the way so I’m looking into moving it to a plate in front of the seat which will also be a location for the chute jacket lanyard, extra switches and the pop off psi gauge. Decisions, decisions....
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Fonz69

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Well I made the seats more stable adding braces across and squared up the passenger side as it was about 1/2” off.
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Trailer is coming together.
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Had some help from the youngest today he was testing out the drivers seat and inspecting the keel and trailer.
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Pulled the kill switch out and the plan is to install it in front of the drivers seat, definitely better then behind the steering wheel.
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Removed the forward reverse shifter handle, my knee is already thanking me!
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Option 1 is between the seats and option 2 is switching to air shift....time will tell but today’s mock-up proved air shift may make more sense to keeping my hands on the wheel.

Now time to figure out battery location, thinking behind the passenger seat, easy access to the battery kill switch and quick removal if needed.

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Fonz69

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Was able to get the kill switch relocated to the new plate below the drivers seat and added the chute jacket lanyard loop next to it.
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Now doing a little brainstorming on how I want to brace the rear of the pump. I’ve seen guys doing all different sorts of things from turnbuckles to standoffs connecting to the bowl. Well my thought is there will be allot of force pulling down on the back of the pump so by adding a brace from the back of the intake and attaching it to the transom it should help the typical cracking from happening right away around the bottom of the intake to the hull. Well at least that’s the thought....
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HAP

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What steering wheel is that? I need one like it...

R,
HAP
 

Fonz69

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Got around to making the studs for the bowl, used some 316 SS all thread. Also double drilled and tapped the exit side for the nozzle extension.
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Made the new fuel tank supports, should be able to clear the blower belt with room to spare.
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Still playing around with battery location, this would make sense as it’s easy to get at for charging and if anything went wrong I could reach the battery disconnect.
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Checking some alignment again with the motor plates after noticing that the stringers do not run parallel with the center of the keel. Since each hull is hand laid I suppose there is always some movement during the layup process. Port side stringer seems to be heading away from keel center but long as the motor to pump alignment is good it’s not that big of an issue.
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HAP

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Picked it up at Eddie Marine
Thanks!! I have their catalogue right here in front of me but after looking at so many on the web I guess I forgot who has what... :)

R,
HAP
 

Fonz69

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Made a couple rear pump supports, they are tied into the transom plates and through the wood in the transom.

Started out with this idea but didn’t like the looks of it from the sides.
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So I ended up notching and back sanding them to overlap and keep the joint to the inside next to the pump.

Countersinking the hardware,
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Those transfer buttons come in handy, you can see them set into the original holes in the race plates.

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Tap with a hammer and you have an accurate mark for your hole.

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A little time on the detail sander and I think we have something.

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Not 100% sure yet but thinking these will be powder coated red to match the race plates, time will tell.
 

rivrrts429

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Interesting idea with the pump bracing.

My only thought is you’re still transferring the load to the transom plates.

Transom plates are a yearly maintenance item for me. They all begin to leak, small or big, at some point from the the load in that area. Having a decent setback and moderate or more power exacerbates the problem.

Did you already have a pump brace inside the boat and tying in both stringers?
 

Fonz69

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Interesting idea with the pump bracing.

My only thought is you’re still transferring the load to the transom plates.

Transom plates are a yearly maintenance item for me. They all begin to leak, small or big, at some point from the the load in that area. Having a decent setback and moderate or more power exacerbates the problem.

Did you already have a pump brace inside the boat and tying in both stringers?

Look back on the thread and you will see the 2 pump braces in the front. One up front on the intake and the other at the front of the suction. The theory here is that the pump is trying to go up in the front and down in the back. Also there is the rocking motion while going over waves trying to force the pump up and down in the hull.

If the plates are sealed up good to start with they usually don’t leak as they are just holding back the water, however I did use the 2 lower holes on each side that go thru the plates the bolts also go through the transom which is where I anticipate to achieve the vertical holding power and stop the pump from wanting to push down in the rear.

Truely only time will tell if they help at all or was just a waste of time, my last 21 daytona didn’t have them and had a setback pump without any cracking or leaks so my hope is all this will do is help.
 

HAP

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Fonz, that is some excellent work! One thing to make it even better would be to try using a 0 flute countersink bit to eliminate the chatter marks. They are the ones with just a hole in the side of the bit. You will be amazed at the difference... I know the frustrations of trying to get the right speed/flutes etc. to minimize chatter. But the 0 flute will never chatter. They just peel that aluminum away like an apple peeler :)
Thanks for sharing your project progress.
R,
HAP
 

Fonz69

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Well I’ve been really busy at work so the boat project has slowed but was able to get a few things done today.
Started by removing the forward reverse shifter that my left leg kept getting jammed into! I picked up a gauge block off plate and it seemed to work great, didn’t really want to drill the bigger hole in the boat but I never plan to put that shifter back in.
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Next up is the plan for still keeping the forward reverse but getting a little creative on how to do it. My plan for the boat does include racing however it will be used on the river as well and having a reverse comes in handy. I am going to setup the reverse bucket with a spring to keep it open all the time and run the cable to a left foot pedal which doubles as a nice foot rest
This way you push the pedal and you get reverse, let off and your back to forward. In theory it should work

Started off with a nice left hand pedal that matches my accelerator that came with the boat.
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I pulled the gauges out today also, that will be another days adventure but I’m leaning toward a gps speedo as I infilled the old pickup in on the transom last fall.
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Cut up some aluminum and am planning to piggyback off the same holes from the right hand side pedal.
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Little heat and pressure it seemed to bend up nice.
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Well it’s a start, all the fasteners are long and whatever I had laying around until I get everything locked in to where it belongs then I will go back and purchase the best fit for each part.
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It gets really tight on the left side under the dash but it seems to fit and feels good for alignment when sitting and holding the wheel.

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Now time to route the cable and figure out a good mount near the top of the pedal to attach it to.
 

Fonz69

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Well I was able to finish up the pedal today.

Did a little shopping at Menards and found this part that will thread unto my existing cable end, figured that since there were holes in the boat already and it was a solid mount then why not try and make it work right?
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Picked up some 5/16” smooth rod and tapped on the hiem joint end that will go to the pedal.

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Installed the new bolts and locking nuts, fun fact some of this tubing was salvaged from an old dock I had .

Will probably end up powder coating it all with the motor mounts to match once the whole build is complete. Also lighten it up a bit with a few relief holes.
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Time to weld up the extension.
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Clears the steering cable by 1/8” at full extension and misses the deck.
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I have to admit I took a seat and imagined flooring it!
 

Fonz69

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So my carbon fiber seat shells arrived and weighed in at 4 lbs each compared to the 23 lbs a piece for the original seats. The local upholstery guru is busy till Jan/Feb so the covers will have to wait for now. If anyone is looking for killer seat shells lookup Rob Ward on FB and he will hook you up!

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Fonz69

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My trim came in this week from Tim and Place Diverter. He made a custom stop and adjustable turnbuckle along with double drilling the HPH housing and upgrading the steering arm fasteners.
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cut up my stainless all thread and made the stud kit to hold it all together.
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The adjustable wedge set from Brian Nelson is next, I’m going to leave it spaced at +1 for now which should give me 1/2 degree down as the low pro intake is a 5 degree and the HPH has a positive 3 1/2 degree built in. I can trim the rest as needed with the diverter or make adjustments on the wedge kit but only testing will tell later what I will need.
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Here is a shot of the stop Tim installed.
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And the adjustable turnbuckle.
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Red 3.125 insert came installed from Place Diverter, it will be a starting point but again leaves adjustability if needed in the nozzle.
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After taking a careful look at the old steering adapter I noticed it had a slight Bend in it and would have messed up the threads in the new Diverter so one more part to order.....
Otherwise the rest looks great.
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Fonz69

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Well just a few more steps closer, picked up the dock paddle from Ron who made my seat shells, and the wife picked me up a nice angle finder to set the ride plate and nozzle with for Christmas!
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Working on a motor deal that could be a real game changer for how fast this boat will go also!
 

Mcob25rg

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Your skills are CRAZY! These are the kind of boats that can’t be bought. If I had to pay you to do all this, it couldn’t be done, and you wouldn’t want to do it for anybody else! By far one of the coolest threads ever posted. Thanks for letting us see/follow along. Love seeing the kids helping!!!
 

Fonz69

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Cool stuff!

So is 2020 the year she gets wet???
It’s looking like 2021 as I promised the wife the house remodel will happen this year, with that remodel I will be adding heat to my shop so that means I can work out there in comfort all winter finishing up the boat!
 

Fonz69

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So the last big part to the jet pump has arrived so now its time to take the pump all apart and get the hand hole machined to accept this Butch Thurlow Big Mouth Valve!

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Just sitting on the pump to check clearance and work on support bracket ideas.
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Fonz69

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So spent a Saturday in the shop taking the pump apart to have the suction machined for the new pop off valve. In the process made the top 2 bowl studs longer as the pop off should clear them now along with drilling and tapping the 4 extra holes in the main bearing housing for the new Jet Away 2.

Figured before I took everything apart I would test out the Christmas present the wife got for me and see how everything was sitting.
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This is what the front cover of the Jetaway looks like removed.
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Checking the bolt size to select the correct drill and tap.
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Using the matching size center punch insert and tap with a hammer to mark the 4 new hole locations.
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After you have them marked then figure out the depth of the existing 4 holes which is about 1 1/4”
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Now I don’t have a fancy Bridgeport mill yet so my craigslist drill press will have to do.
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Tap the holes, I just did these by hand but you could use a drill with the clutch set if you wanted to.
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I made sure to test all the holes and bolt down the JetAway even though the final install requires the main bearing and shaft installed first then checking the clearances you will need to add the appropriate gasket thickness to prevent leaks, but that’s for another day.
I went to remove the psi sensor port plugs and seeing as they have been in there for a few years they did not come out as nice as I would like to see so after fighting with them for a long time I ended up drilling them out and installing a bushing in each one which should make installing the 90 degree connections easier in the future.
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Now something that some may think is not needed or a waste of time I smoothed out the transition on the lip of the wear ring to the suction where it was sticking up, I figured a smooth transition was better then a sharp lip, right or wrong its what made sense to me.
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All apart and ready for the next step, I will probably leave the aluminum parts raw for now and after I get the boat together and get a summer of testing and making changes out of the way I will pull the raw parts off and send them out to powder coat, this way if anything needs to be modified I’m not powder coating things twice!
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Fonz69

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So I got the Pop Off back from the machine shop getting the suction bored out and the cut to fit for the valve.
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Next the valve needs to be ground slightly where each of the 3 bolts will hold it down to the suction, I found a deburing bit that worked well.
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Butch who made the valve sent me 3 hold down clamps anodized to match also. I’m using ARP bolts for now to test it fit but plan on using ARP studs to make the final connection.
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So since each suction is different Butch has preplanned the piston end to be longer so it can be sanded smooth with the surface of the suction. I used a 90 degree air drill and a scuff pad discs to slowly blend the piston to the suction.
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Valve is now ready to go and the pump assembly can finally begin again.
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I used a little red rtv on the face of the main bearing seal in order to help stop any seepage of the gear lube from the jetaway and then tapped it into place.
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Fonz69

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Below is a video to the function testing of the pop off. The air goes in the top and closes the valve then when the unit is activated a quick release valve lets the valve open or air is applied to the lower port to open it also.
 
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MikeSW

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Nice project. Glad to see Jeff still at it. Met him few times in Jack's McClure's shop in CA and when he was with part of Keith's risky business drag boat team
 

Fonz69

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Pop Off function test.
 

Fonz69

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More supplies arrived today so back out to the shop for a few hours.
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I am using studs on the Pop Off the thought being if it needs to be removed it will save the threads on the suction and a stud has better holding power then a bolt.
These are ARP Stainless.
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Test fit again for the valve with the new studs.
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Since I purchased this shaft and bearing assembled from a new race pump I wont have any pictures to share of that procedure but basically you press on the slinger then the bearing, shim to the back of the snap ring and your done. This is a 17-4 stainless shaft that should handle the HP I plan on throwing at it compared to the stock shaft that came in the boat that was already twisted.
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I already installed the seal in the main bearing housing and sealed it to help prevent leaks from the gear lube that is used with the jetaway instead of grease. Just tap the shaft into the suction housing until it seats.
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Now the Jetaway 2 install, this is the upgraded version that was designed to handle more HP then the previous design as more people are building larger motors in jet boats then in years past. I cleaned and lubed the internal components that slide unto the shaft and installed them.
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This is a look inside the jetaway.
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Now you install the jetaway and check the clearance from the housing to the jetaway and determine how thick of a gasket it will take to seal it up properly.
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So I have a .027 gap and add another .005 for crush for a .032 gasket thickness.
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Next I added a little anti-seize so if it ever needs to come off again I don’t strip the suction housing threads.
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Tighten down all 8 fasteners and fill up the jetaway with the provided gear lube until it comes out the other lower port, you need to let it sit for awhile to make sure it gets filled completel. I plan to add a catch can above where the brass plug is installed for now this will allow for fluid expansion when it gets hot.
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Bolted down the suction and installed the inducer impeller.
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Each setup is different but make sure to shim the impeller so you have .025 to .035 clearance to the face of the wear ring, I had some interference issues with the impeller nut actually hitting the bowl tail bushings snap ring to I had to take about .060 off the nut face to make it clear....these pumps are not always bolt together and go especially when they have allot of custom parts added to them.
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This is the newer larger style bowl and uses an O ring so I greased it up and installed the bowl.
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Here is a look down the inside before the custom loaded gets installed.
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Thats about it for todays work.
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Fonz69

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Installed the new ARP bolts for the steering and mounted the Pop Off, I will plan to swap the Pop Off nuts to Nylok nuts later as it might have to come off again before everything is complete.
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HAP

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That is some great work and looks awesome. I would have to devise a more stealthy thrust diverter control to get rid of the way the cable is presented. A nice bell crank with the correct geometry would allow the cable or rod to run straight out of the transom. Just my thinking...

R,
HAP
 

Fonz69

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That is some great work and looks awesome. I would have to devise a more stealthy thrust diverter control to get rid of the way the cable is presented. A nice bell crank with the correct geometry would allow the cable or rod to run straight out of the transom. Just my thinking...

R,
HAP
Some people run air on a shuttle valve so there isn’t a cable, the cable is just loose and I haven’t pushed it back into the boat until I get everything else installed to find the best location for it. Also it needs to make a nice gradual bend or it will hang up. The bell crank is an interesting idea post some pics on how that would work it sounds interesting.
 

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Graphite sprayed the loader and installed it today making sure I used sealant around the fasteners, which are threaded into the suction then nylok nuts on the top for added safety as a loader coming loose would be a very bad day and has been the destruction of some race boats. This is something that needs to be checked each time out.
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So made a bracket to hold the expansion tank idea I had for the jetaway, in the past I have had them start to leak over time and some of that is due to the fluid heating up and expanding. My thought is treat it like a rear end in a car and give it a vent and somewhere for the fluid to go if things overheat.
Right or wrong here it is.
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Was warm enough today to install the race plates and finally install the return spring for the forward reverse pedal.
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I was able to use an existing bolt location for the spring as I will be running the new wiring down the starboard side.
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Race plates installed and sealed up.
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Now time to start planning the transom bulkhead locations, will need bilge pump dumps for the center pod and both sides, water in from pump to psi relief valve then out, water from motor dump, and now air to the pop off and lines to the pump for psi senders.
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Fonz69

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Ok so with a little help from Hass I ordered up the parts and put together my first pneumatic pop off system.
Tony Skagen uses a little air compressor for air vs CO2 which I thought made sense in my application as I plan to run more on the river then race and it would be a bummer to run out of CO2 and end my day on the water.

I can always add a CO2 tank and in about 5 minutes remove the pump and take as I used weather tight connectors.

So there was a mercury ignition kill switch mounted on the dash and I really didn’t like the location so it will be moved in between the seats in the near future but then left a nasty hole in the dash that is now filled with the psi gauge for the pop off system showing how much psi is in the line holding the valve closed.
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Next was to install the purge valve that fills the valve, I cut in a nut on a finish washer to mount on the dash in place of where there was an acc electrical switch.
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Next was the push button on a curly line set in 5/32 size hose, this when pushed causes the quick release air valve that’s tied into the top of the pop off inside the boat to bleed off air quickly and let the pop off open.
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Now time to build a bracket and figure out the pump kit from Summit Racing.
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The transom hold down hooks seemed to make sense to uses to mount the tank to as I am trying to minimize the extra holes in the boat.
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Heat shrink tube and solder connections to make sure it lasts for at least a little while.
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Tank and pump are mounted now time to run the lines through the ENT piping I ran.
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Tried to run the lines neat as possible and found that a little bit of heat shrink helps to hold the lines together.
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So to open the Pop off valve I am using a valve that lets the line breathe through a bonze filter and when the valve is turned it feeds air from the tank to the 1/4” line and forces the pop off open in the event I have to maintain the pop off or clean out debris etc.
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I tested it off a battery and it seems to work great, pump turns on at 90 psi and off at 120 psi. I will finish running the power wires once I figure out exactly where the battery will be located and once the motor is installed.

It might be some time before I post again as the house remodel has begun and that will mean working 5 am to 9 pm each day until its done....cant wait.
 

King295

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Your work is absolutely surgically clean. Wish I had half the talent you have shown. Hurry up and get that house remodel done, we are waiting!
 

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Ok so my seat covers are done so I had to set them in and snap a few pics, even my boys wanted to test them out!

Seat covers were made locally at Les Upholstery by Paul. They are designed to come out if needed and have snaps down low on each side. It’s still chilly here in WI so after they get out in the summer sun they will tighten up.
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So the weather still hasn’t warmed up to start digging a hole for the addition and this covid19 mess has not been making getting the const loan processed so might as well play with the boat this week.

Ordered and installed the new gauges though they are not wired yet the boat looks much better without holes in the dash!

So the new GPS speedometer has an antenna and after opening it up it just so happens it has a built in magnet, I made a countersunk screw and washer setup to plug the hole where the old ignition switch was located and it made a nice spot for the sender.
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RichL

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Hope the antenna has enough exposure in that location for a good read.

Boat looks great by the way.
 

HydroSkreamin

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Hope the antenna has enough exposure in that location for a good read.

Boat looks great by the way.
Mine is under the dash and does just fine but I’ve seen where they need to be on top of the deck.
 
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