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Re-install interior, anything needed on bolts and screws?

BigQ

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Not sure where to put this question, but since there was no "general" in the tech section i'll ask here.

I removed all the seats and panels from my interior for cleaning and overall curiosity of the build. Anyway, most of the parts are just screwed down to the wood floor and fiberglass panels; should I use any silicon or sealant on the threads when I put them back in?

On a side note I was a little surprised at the rigging on the 2000 eliminator, not much more then the last Commander I had. At least all the wood appears to be treated or glassed, so it is definitively more of a solid build.
 
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Phebus

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I wouldn't use any silicon or sealant, but I would use nylock nuts.
 

Ultra26 # 1

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I would dip all screws going into wood in marine resin.
 

BigQ

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I wouldn't use any silicon or sealant, but I would use nylock nuts.
No way to put a nut on the other side while going into the floor.

I always thought Eliminator and higher end boats did this withe the rub-rail install, but they just used SS wood screws.
 

Rvrluvr

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Anti seize. The stainless will get hot and freeze the nut to the bolt
 

Phebus

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No way to put a nut on the other side while going into the floor.

I always thought Eliminator and higher end boats did this withe the rub-rail install, but they just used SS wood screws.
Then they are not bolted, but screwed.
I would ensure that the screw takes a good bite and tightens well. If not, I would go to the next step in size.
 

BigQ

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Then they are not bolted, but screwed.
I would ensure that the screw takes a good bite and tightens well. If not, I would go to the next step in size.
Good point i fixed my words, thanks. :thumbsup
 

ace one

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I have seen many different ways of installing seats and side panels etc. Most of the mfg's basically use zinc plated hardware as in lag bolts, fender washers and regular old hex nuts. I would recommend the use of stainless steel lag bolts or screws and stainless washers if you are going into a floor (be careful sometimes the bottom of the boat is just under or part of the interior floor and you can easily put a screw or lag bolt through the bottom of your boat) The side panels should be just fine with zinc hardware. If you are putting the seats in to stay for a long period then a bit of sealant is a good idea, resin or marine silicone etc. Be careful because the sealant can act as a lubricate and make the lag or screw strip out much easier...side panels that have studs I just use a large fender washer and a regular hex nut but then I double nut them, tighten the second nut just lightly so it will come free in the future. There are other ways of securing seats to the floor in a case that you would be removing them often. There are threaded inserts that can be set into your floor and then you would secure the seat or seat base with a standard stainless hex head machine screw (or regular bolt) that can be removed several times and still hold tight...............sometimes what you find behind the panels or under the seat is a bit scary.......even from the best of Mfg's

Good luck with your project :eek:uttahere::eek:uttahere:
 

454Rocket

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I just completely gutted my Eliminator interior to fix the rattle loose issue and was shocked at the BS I found...

I through bolted EVERYTHING with stainless bolts and locking nuts. I replaced the floor last season and added access covers to that end. And that is the ONLY way your interior will stay-put long term.

There is now at least $500 worth of stainless in the interior alone... the reason why it wasn't done at the factory
 
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PokerRun388

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Big, Glad to see that your cleaning up and updating your 25. That boat really needed a great home (TLC) and your the man for that...

Glad to see your taking the time/money/effort to clean up some things!!

you know in 2000, they were building so many boats, they just knocked em out so quickly, mayb thats why the rigging wasn't dcb quality..
 

NicPaus

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you know in 2000, they were building so many boats, they just knocked em out so quickly, mayb thats why the rigging wasn't dcb quality..[/QUOTE]

X-2 my 2000 Ultra was drywall screws and no nylocks and no heat shrink electrical connectors floors and ski lockers not glassed. Wandered why everything was rattling like all hell and my electric was haywire. Had OC boat repair dedo the floor and ski lockers and Rerigged it myself and no rattles and no electric issues. 95 Ultra I sold last year was no comparison on rigging. Built solid and no issues.
 

BigQ

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Big, Glad to see that your cleaning up and updating your 25. That boat really needed a great home (TLC) and your the man for that...

Glad to see your taking the time/money/effort to clean up some things!!

you know in 2000, they were building so many boats, they just knocked em out so quickly, mayb thats why the rigging wasn't dcb quality..
Could be, but they were still claiming a premium price. At least I didnt find any beer cans behind the panels like I did in the "New" Commander:D.
 

BigQ

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I have seen many different ways of installing seats and side panels etc. Most of the mfg's basically use zinc plated hardware as in lag bolts, fender washers and regular old hex nuts. I would recommend the use of stainless steel lag bolts or screws and stainless washers if you are going into a floor (be careful sometimes the bottom of the boat is just under or part of the interior floor and you can easily put a screw or lag bolt through the bottom of your boat) The side panels should be just fine with zinc hardware. If you are putting the seats in to stay for a long period then a bit of sealant is a good idea, resin or marine silicone etc. Be careful because the sealant can act as a lubricate and make the lag or screw strip out much easier...side panels that have studs I just use a large fender washer and a regular hex nut but then I double nut them, tighten the second nut just lightly so it will come free in the future. There are other ways of securing seats to the floor in a case that you would be removing them often. There are threaded inserts that can be set into your floor and then you would secure the seat or seat base with a standard stainless hex head machine screw (or regular bolt) that can be removed several times and still hold tight...............sometimes what you find behind the panels or under the seat is a bit scary.......even from the best of Mfg's

Good luck with your project :eek:uttahere::eek:uttahere:
The threaded inserts are a great idea and i think i will use those wherever i can't through bolt.:thumbsup
 

plaster dave

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Big, Glad to see that your cleaning up and updating your 25. That boat really needed a great home (TLC) and your the man for that...

Glad to see your taking the time/money/effort to clean up some things!!

you know in 2000, they were building so many boats, they just knocked em out so quickly, mayb thats why the rigging wasn't dcb quality..
you know in 2000, they were building so many boats, they just knocked em out so quickly, mayb thats why the rigging wasn't dcb quality..
X-2 my 2000 Ultra was drywall screws and no nylocks and no heat shrink electrical connectors floors and ski lockers not glassed. Wandered why everything was rattling like all hell and my electric was haywire. Had OC boat repair dedo the floor and ski lockers and Rerigged it myself and no rattles and no electric issues. 95 Ultra I sold last year was no comparison on rigging. Built solid and no issues.[/QUOTE]

That is BS. I have a 2000 Howard cat and not one problem with the rigging or interior.
 

miniboatfan

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Just a side note, if you're going to use antisieze/neverseez, be sure you use the proper type for the metal you're coating. I am not sure which is which but I know there are metalergic conflicts with the various metals which can defeat the whole objective. I'm sure you are aware it can be bought in copper, zinc, etc and they are more or less the same price, just read the container for applicability. Love your approach of doing it right, i have had a ton of helpful hints from RD web.

Good luck and best,

Dave - miniboatfan
 
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