rear facing/front facing passenger setups

[Flat Broke]

Since this seems to be the home for many things Schiada on this board, and ski-racing is synonymous with Schiada, I figgured this was as good a place as any to post this question. I see in quite a few of the pictures that Racey has posted, the passenger seat looks like it is built so it can be switched between forward facing and an observers seat without much hassle.

Does anyone have pictures of how these setups are mounted? What kinds of slides, hinges, pins or whatever are being used to allow a quick change in the orrientation of the passenger's seat?

I'd like to add this functionality when I do the interior for my Spectra, and it doesn't hurt to start mulling over ideas in my head.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Deleted Account]

The Schiada's I've been in have an Alum plate and threaded bolts coming into the seat. You just unfasten 4 wing nuts, flip the seat and tighten them right back down again. Here's a picture of a seat mount...

 

[Racey]

Your best bet is to make an aluminum plate for each position on the floor like shown above, then move the entire base and seat to either position. this gives you the most ease to switch positions, and also the least chance of water getting under the floors due to exposed holes.

 

[Flat Broke]

Thanks for the quick response. That pic that RiverKid posted from the th400 thread makes sense now. The only down side is the 4 death spikes sticking up from the unused plate. I haven't decided if I'm going with open stainless tube seat bases like what my previous boat had, or if I'll go boxes. Either way, I guess I could put a series of hole patterns in the base that will basically allow fore and aft position changes on the same plate hopefully removing the need for multiple plates or sets of studs. This could also be helpful.

As for the hardware, do people have problems with the wingnuts coming loose? It wouldn't be the end of the world to use nylocs, but ideally, I'd like to have the ability to change the config out on the water without having to open the hatch and get into the toolbox. How bout some of those snazzy cam clamps you can get at Rockler?

They make them up to 5/16 18 bolt size, would 4 of those into .375" plate be adequate for one seat and a 250+lb occupant?

It's a stupid little part of the boat, but it's all the stupid little parts that make the whole thing cool and unique. I got the bug again since I'm spraying gel this weekend if the temps and weather hold.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Deleted Account]

That all goes under the seat. The bracket I had pictured was for a SECOND bucket seal in the rear of that boat (see pic)... Just take the time to get the bolts measured out, spin the seat and make sure it works both ways. Bolt the basedown when it works and you're in business...

Thanks for the quick response. That pic that RiverKid posted from the th400 thread makes sense now. The only down side is the 4 death spikes sticking up from the unused plate. I haven't decided if I'm going with open stainless tube seat bases like what my previous boat had, or if I'll go boxes. Either way, I guess I could put a series of hole patterns in the base that will basically allow fore and aft position changes on the same plate hopefully removing the need for multiple plates or sets of studs. This could also be helpful.

As for the hardware, do people have problems with the wingnuts coming loose? It wouldn't be the end of the world to use nylocs, but ideally, I'd like to have the ability to change the config out on the water without having to open the hatch and get into the toolbox. How bout some of those snazzy cam clamps you can get at Rockler?

They make them up to 5/16 18 bolt size, would 4 of those into .375" plate be adequate for one seat and a 250+lb occupant?

It's a stupid little part of the boat, but it's all the stupid little parts that make the whole thing cool and unique. I got the bug again since I'm spraying gel this weekend if the temps and weather hold.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Flat Broke]

I saw the second plate. The reason I'd be worried about multiple studs is because of the difference in seat location between forward facing (more towards the rear of the boat) and the observer setup(seat more towards the front). If I put my bolt pattern at the outer most portion of the seat to distribute the load best, then I can't do multiple hole patterns in the seat base, thus no fore/aft adjustment. With the seat turned backwards on the same axis that it was mounted forward, the observer's arms/shoulders would probably still be outside my field of vision, meaning I'd still need to look over to see what the observer signaled. If I can move the seat forward (multiple studs on a wider pattern or possibly same studs on a shorter pattern) then the observer would be within my field of view when I'm looking forward.

It's all hypothetical at this juncture as the boat is still upside down on a dolly

Thanks again for the quick response and pic.

Chris

 

[Deleted Account]

You got it.

It takes some measuring but you will figure out a spot that is flush with the driver side facing forward and won't smoke the dash when you flip it... It usually takes about 3 beers to get it right. :beer

 

[Deleted Account]

Hey Racey,

Did you build new seat peds for the SR22 yet?

 

[Racey]

Not yet, i'm still tossing around a few ideas, i don't want to commit to something until i am 100% satisfied with the design.

 

[Roaddogg 4040]

Have you thought about using an adjustable seat base similar to those used in cars and trucks. I have seen them used on Bostrom seats in a GN boat and they worked bitchin...

Steve