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Retractable Transom Tiedowns ??

LazyLavey

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Anybody use them?

Do the work?

Do they last?

Are they strong enough?

Seems the mounting plate and only 1 bolt is awfully lightweight for the potential tug on it..

I believe WestMarine has 2 brands
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Rsqfxr

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I have the boat buckle mini, and am happy with them, I’ve had them for about 3 years with no issues


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mjc

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I had a set when I went th o the dam dam run and had to cut one off in the prep lane when it failed. Went back to regular straps no problems since.
 

Webuildcustom

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I put them on my trailer. I wouldnt be concerned about using them. It would take one insane impact to shear the mounting bolt or break the tab. I'd guess the strap itself would be the weakest link in the setup. I didn't care much for the single shear mounting tab everyone uses
I did see some potential for it to bend rather easily. I made my own brackets that attach at 2 sections each. I also made them longer allowing them to reach up onto the bunk up rights to act as a small guesset as well. 20181223_184042.jpg
 

Brobee

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They came factory on my Boatmate trailer which is who MB uses. They work really well and were a nice change from my old boat. They retract away clean and feel sturdy. I would recommend them.


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rickym20

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Picked up a set of the boat buckle ones and So far I love them. Reading reviews on this brand was the bolt that is provided can be a pain sometimes to tighten.
I ended just picking up a couple different style lock nuts and used them. From the reviews the lock nut is the issue on the one they provided.
 

LazyLavey

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Thinking of tapping the trailer and bolting. Don't want to bolt completely through the tube with a nut exposed on the other side

Any thoughts?
 
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pwerwagn

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Thinking of tapping the trailer and bolting. Don't want to bolt through the tube with a nut exposed not the other side

Any thoughts?
All depends what you are tapping into. That was my plan too, but the area on my competitive trailer that I wanted to tap thru measured to be ~12ga (a touch over 1/10th). So I ended up using a nut.
 

Webuildcustom

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It probably isnt thick enough for that large of a bolt You could drill through the one wall and then drill some large drain holes on the bottom and fish a nut up inside the channel I would not drill through both walls and try to through bolt it either without installing a crush sleeve between the 2 walls
 

DEROOSTER

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IMG_1351.JPG


just as webuildcustom said, drill straight through, weld in a crush sleeve and your good to go. They are great. Very clean and strong.
 

LazyLavey

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View attachment 756501

just as webuildcustom said, drill straight through, weld in a crush sleeve and your good to go. They are great. Very clean and strong.
Very clean

Unfortunately I have no steps or other means to conceal the protruding bolt end and nut

Bolting into the inner tube and fish a nut into the tube through a drain hole may be my only option...??..

ANy other thoughts are always welcome
 

02HoWaRd26

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Don’t forget you don’t want the bot or the trailer to be the weak link. I have the single shear tab with single bolt, and always use mine. They work perfectly just like that and I’d be real if you guys are that worried about breaking a bolt you should probably drive slower with a trailer.....
 

ONE-A-DAY

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If you flip the trailer the straps really are not going to come into play, and actually the straps would be the least of your concerns at that point. Straps keep you legal and keep tunnels from moving around left or right on the flat bunks.
 

outboard_256

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Very clean

Unfortunately I have no steps or other means to conceal the protruding bolt end and nut

Bolting into the inner tube and fish a nut into the tube through a drain hole may be my only option...??..

ANy other thoughts are always welcome
maybe a nutcert?
 

LazyLavey

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Well DUH!!!

I can access the inner tube through the tail light hole.......

Thanks for the suggestions !!

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