RV Tires

[jet496]

I have a 2003, 31' C-Class, Winnebago that currently has 16" tire on it (Trazano LT225/75R16 - Radial A/T). I've had my share of blow-outs & thinking this may have something to do with it, plus I load it heavy, big time & haul a boat

QUESTION: Should I with larger tires since it is time to replace them? I'm afraid I may loose power going up steep grades such as the one on I-8 coming back from the river. Right now, I can maintain 40 mph with the pedal to the metal up the steepest part of the grade.

 

[truggyboy]

Were you running "E" load range before? Problem is usually there is not enough room to go bigger(taller) on rv's, you will more then likely have clearance issues.

 

[CampbellCarl]

What load rating tires are you running now and what does each corner of the moho weigh?

Tire failure is almost always caused by overloading and/or under rated and/or low air pressure which causes lower load rating. Kinda confusing but it does make sense.

You MUST load the moho and then weigh each corner to determine the correct air pressure that each tire needs to carry.

 

[rivrrts429]

As said before what are the load range? Hopefully E range.

You also may have inflation issues, how often are you checking them. If you don't have valve stem extensions on the inside dual they often go unchecked because they can be a pain in the ass to get a gauge on. Once you load the MH the inside tire could be rubbing the outside.

Which tires have blown... rears?

If your shopping for a good tire but trying to stay cheap... they don't exist. :skull

With tires I never try to step over a dollar to save a dime. Not saying this is what you're doing, but I just looked at that tire and it wouldn't be my first choice.

I would go with something more like the Firestone or Michelin range E tire. Expensive as fuck but generally 70,000 mile tires within there date codes.

 

[jet496]

1) E load are what I have now.
2) I inflate the tires to exactly what the door sticker says (80 rear - 65 front) before ever taking her out.
3) I don't know the corner weights & I'm not sure where to easily weigh it here in El Cajon after it's loaded. I do load the shit out of it.
4) It's always been a rear tire so far.
5) A lot of my problem is I haul ass (70 plus) across hot desert freeways. Plus I think once I need to adhere to replacing them after 5 years. This last blow out was probably age & is the only tire that the sun hits (it's under a nice big cover).

I was thinking Michelin XPS Ribs which I think are Steel side-walls (my last ones were poly). Money's not an object. Fixing a blow-out on the freeway is dangerous. Any suggestions?

 

[bagged97taco]

Michelin xps ribs are nice with the steel sidewall but expensive. I have a 30' c class and just put 6 bridgestone duravis R500 on it. I load the crap out of mine and pull a boat. They have been much better than my last set of bfg commercial t/a. They don't have a mileage war. But I don't care on my motorhome. They are fairly cheap for what they are. You running lt225/75r16?

 

[OCMerrill]

Michelin xps ribs are nice with the steel sidewall but expensive. I have a 30' c class and just put 6 bridgestone duravis R500 on it. I load the crap out of mine and pull a boat. They have been much better than my last set of bfg commercial t/a. They don't have a mileage war. But I don't care on my motorhome. They are fairly cheap for what they are. You running lt225/75r16?

I have been through 5 tread peels and separations on my 30' C until I ponied up and bought the XPS Ribs. No more drama in the past 6 years. Now I have to switch them off due to age. Sucks as now they are $300 in this/my size. They harshen the ride but are super tough.

 

[CampbellCarl]

1) E load are what I have now.
2) I inflate the tires to exactly what the door sticker says (80 rear - 65 front) before ever taking her out.
3) I don't know the corner weights & I'm not sure where to easily weigh it here in El Cajon after it's loaded. I do load the shit out of it.
4) It's always been a rear tire so far.
5) A lot of my problem is I haul ass (70 plus) across hot desert freeways. Plus I think once I need to adhere to replacing them after 5 years. This last blow out was probably age & is the only tire that the sun hits (it's under a nice big cover).

I was thinking Michelin XPS Ribs which I think are Steel side-walls (my last ones were poly). Money's not an object. Fixing a blow-out on the freeway is dangerous. Any suggestions?

You can't know what tire size, load rating or tire pressure that the moho needs until you know these numbers.................ask a neighbor, google it, run a trucker off the road.....whatever it takes.........find out what the motorhome weighs (by corner).

 

[Enen]

Whatever you do, DO NOT put Goodyear tires on an RV. Seriously.

 

[napanutt]

Whatever you do, DO NOT put Goodyear tires on an RV. Seriously.

More like don't put anything but Michelins on an RV.

 

[Chipster27]

Whatever you do, DO NOT put Goodyear tires on an RV. Seriously.

Why? I have G614s on my TH and they are like steel tracks. Bullet proof. G rated 14 ply. Even the guys at Goodyear were like WTF when they mounted them. Been on there for over 3 years, no wear, never a flat or blow out.


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[Enen]

Why? I have G614s on my TH and they are like steel tracks. Bullet proof. G rated 14 ply. Even the guys at Goodyear were like WTF when they mounted them. Been on there for over 3 years, no wear, never a flat or blow out.


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Very long story short. My kid brother was killed in a car accident two hours after he graduated from ASU, a few years back when a diesel pusher w Goodyear tires crossed the centerline.

Keeping it short, after hiring experts with multiple PHD's. it was determined that Goodyear and Monaco Coach had a situation similar to Firestone and Ford Explorers.

 

[truggyboy]

Whatever you do, DO NOT put Goodyear tires on an RV. Seriously.

I have never had a problem with my Goodyears on my moho.

 

[napanutt]

Why? I have G614s on my TH and they are like steel tracks. Bullet proof. G rated 14 ply. Even the guys at Goodyear were like WTF when they mounted them. Been on there for over 3 years, no wear, never a flat or blow out.


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You're talking about a trailer, right? Not sure what enan was referring to but I'm talking about motorhome tires. I've gathered from more then a few peeps with motorhomes that anything but a Michelin (at least the 22.5 rim sizes) are more apt for failure. I'm not looking forward to replacing mine, hear they're around $500.00 each.

 

[Enen]

You're talking about a trailer, right? Not sure what enan was referring to but I'm talking about motorhome tires. I've gathered from more then a few peeps with motorhomes that anything but a Michelin (at least the 22.5 rim sizes) are more apt for failure. I'm not looking forward to replacing mine, hear they're around $500.00 each.

This!!

 

[Enen]

I have never had a problem with my Goodyears on my moho.

Not yet, but when you do, I hope you are well insured.

 

[jet496]

I'll weigh the four corners before I get new tires (I'm waiting about a month or so). It makes sense to know the load distribution. The RV company I bought it from lifted the rear end quite a bit due to the location of the propane tank behind the rear tires (not between the wheel base) which caused the tank to bottom out on steep dips. That may have caused some load distribution issue as well.

 

[pronstar]

Bridgestone Duravis R250 has a full steel cap. Not totally sure about the other Duravis models, depending on where you look they're either the same as the R250 but a different tread, or are built slightly different. (Bridgestone's website is a joke). I would definitely look to a commercial LT tire, from a name brand.

Also:
XP Rib
BFG Commercial TA
...and the like.


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[Chipster27]

Very long story short. My kid brother was killed in a car accident two hours after he graduated from ASU, a few years back when a diesel pusher w Goodyear tires crossed the centerline.

Keeping it short, after hiring experts with multiple PHD's. it was determined that Goodyear and Monaco Coach had a situation similar to Firestone and Ford Explorers.

Wow, very sorry to hear, what a tragedy for your family. Condolences.


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[2FORCEFULL]

I'll weigh the four corners before I get new tires (I'm waiting about a month or so). It makes sense to know the load distribution. The RV company I bought it from lifted the rear end quite a bit due to the location of the propane tank behind the rear tires (not between the wheel base) which caused the tank to bottom out on steep dips. That may have caused some load distribution issue as well.

that motor home has about enough payload for one fat chick and a bag of groceries...

run it out to the truck stop loaded and towing what you tow:eek

 

[jet496]

Can I get weighed at any truck weighing station on the freeway?

 

[rivermobster]

1) E load are what I have now.
2) I inflate the tires to exactly what the door sticker says (80 rear - 65 front) before ever taking her out.
3) I don't know the corner weights & I'm not sure where to easily weigh it here in El Cajon after it's loaded. I do load the shit out of it.
4) It's always been a rear tire so far.
5) A lot of my problem is I haul ass (70 plus) across hot desert freeways. Plus I think once I need to adhere to replacing them after 5 years. This last blow out was probably age & is the only tire that the sun hits (it's under a nice big cover).

I was thinking Michelin XPS Ribs which I think are Steel side-walls (my last ones were poly). Money's not an object. Fixing a blow-out on the freeway is dangerous. Any suggestions?

Your thinking is correct. I put these same tires on my toyhauler, cause i load the fuck outa it. Havent had an issue since. Michelin tires are the cheapest tire out there, when you compare how much you spend, to how long they will last. :thumbsup

I also agree on the goodyear thing. those tires are totally junk. lexus used em for a few years, and we had constant blowouts with them. only tire worse is the carlisle tire. Get the michelin's and you can relax.

 

[pronstar]

Can I get weighed at any truck weighing station on the freeway?

No, I think you can get a ticket for even pulling in there.

Go to the CAT scales you see at many truck stops. It's super easy.


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[2FORCEFULL]

I always go to the loves, and it's the first thing I do when I get a coach...I never weigh side to side unles I have a lean problem..

 

[LazyLavey]

More like don't put anything but Michelins on an RV.

X2.

When it comes to 16"s on a class C, Michelins are definitely the tire of preference

 

[boatnam2]

I don't think I have ever seen a motorhome with a flat driving to the river, but pretty much see a 5th wheel or boat with a blown out tire and trailer damage ever trip, hell sometimes more than one. Why is that?

 

[pronstar]

I don't think I have ever seen a motorhome with a flat driving to the river, but pretty much see a 5th wheel or boat with a blown out tire and trailer damage ever trip, hell sometimes more than one. Why is that?

Trailer tires aren’t made to carry passengers. It’s printed on the sidewall. This limits the liability of the tire maker, so they’re built to a lower standard compared to tires designed to carry people.

An E-rated passenger vehicle tire weighs considerably more than a comparable trailer tire.


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[2FORCEFULL]

X2.

When it comes to 16"s on a class C, Michelins are definitely the tire of preference

yokohamas are way way better, they don't side wall crack like Michelins,... on class c's I like to change out the 225/75/16's to 235/85/16's... way more load rating, carry the coach way better, and lower the high gear rpms,.. also lets it pull 4th up hills at a lower rpm, the v-10 torque band if about 3200 rpms. so you get in the sweet spot @ 55 mph up hills

some times the 235-85-16 is too tall, so either I take the rear wheel trim off and make the wheel opening bigger,.. or go with 225-85-16's... but they all ways fit the front...another thing I do that makes a major improvement is to change out the front springs to a progressive moog spring...most all class c's are way over sprung in the front,... they put the same springs in the B+ as they do in the 31'r...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Trailer tires aren’t made to carry passengers. It’s printed on the sidewall. This limits the liability of the tire maker, so they’re built to a lower standard compared to tires designed to carry people.

An E-rated passenger vehicle tire weighs considerably more than a comparable trailer tire.


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trailer tires have more rubber on the side wall...

 

[LowRiver2]

I don't think I have ever seen a motorhome with a flat driving to the river, but pretty much see a 5th wheel or boat with a blown out tire and trailer damage ever trip, hell sometimes more than one. Why is that?

I’d say too many trailer owners think because there is tread on the tire they are good vs all the sun damage from not moving for months on end unprotected.
A lot of people are cheap and , or don’t think about changing out tires on trailers like they do on cars,MH’s.
I rarely see a well kept boat or RV trailer with a blow out. Usually the blown tires matched the un waxed fiberglass of what ever is above the tires on said trailer lol.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

I have a 2003, 31' C-Class, Winnebago that currently has 16" tire on it (Trazano LT225/75R16 - Radial A/T). I've had my share of blow-outs & thinking this may have something to do with it, plus I load it heavy, big time & haul a boat

QUESTION: Should I with larger tires since it is time to replace them? I'm afraid I may loose power going up steep grades such as the one on I-8 coming back from the river. Right now, I can maintain 40 mph with the pedal to the metal up the steepest part of the grade.

I know this is an old post, but, for anyone reading,.. there 2 problems with the class C power train,...first the lower hp,.. the class A has the 3 valve 365 hp, and the C's have the lower 305 hp 2 valve,...but the real problem is the trans, which is a problem for both..the 5 and 6 speed trans is really a 4 speed, with od, or as in the 6 speed, 2 od's,..when towing you really don't need 2 od's in the hills,... that brings us to the biggest complaint about the class C's,..the drop to the screaming 3rd or 4th gear....to bypasss that you have to slow to about 3000 rpms @ 40 mph...it'll climb just about anything at that speed....

the trans has no way to click down 1 gear. and any hint of a hill they jump down 2 gears,... most class C owners run down the road at 70 plus, with stock tires, they're about at 2700 rpms, and lower with the E350, E450's have a lower rear gear, with taller tires, you'll be around 22-2300 rpms,... but when yu hit the hills, if you slow to about 55-60 mph you cruise up the hill at 3200-3400 rpms...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

I don't think I have ever seen a motorhome with a flat driving to the river, but pretty much see a 5th wheel or boat with a blown out tire and trailer damage ever trip, hell sometimes more than one. Why is that?

here's the deal,..you can't inflate trailer tires like car tires...and most trailer tires are running at max load...side wall says to run 80 psi for max, and few people make sure that they are at 80 psi before they leave...and never check for tire heat, which is why they blow out.. I either check for heat with the back side of my fingers, or a heat gun,... if I have hot tires , I go up a size or two,.. the other thing is this.....i've followed people pulling trailers,....ever notice that 99% of trailer flats are curb side???? thats because they drive with the trailer tires past the fog line,.. thats where all the nails and junk is... and it's useually the rear left as the front tire throws the nail to the rear

 

[2FORCEFULL]

I got my first rv and boat when I was 17,....50 years latter, i've found MOST the reasons for.."SHIT HAPPENS"

 

[Singleton]

I don't think I have ever seen a motorhome with a flat driving to the river, but pretty much see a 5th wheel or boat with a blown out tire and trailer damage ever trip, hell sometimes more than one. Why is that?

People forget to look at the trailer tires and IMO overload them.

I am anal on my ToyHauler tires. Check air night before any trip, and usually check hub and tire temp every 2 hours or so. I also monitor pressure via the sensors every 20 minutes. My ToyHauler tires were dated 2015, and over the last year, I have slowly replaced 4 of the 7 via Discount Tire certificates. Before I pull it home from Havasu, I will replace the other 3 since they have aged out (I replace every 5 years based on date code) and those 3 still on the trailer look worn out.

The tire temp check has saved me. Pulling home from Superstition (Ca), right before I pulled onto the 8, I checked all the hubs and tires. Average tire temp was 105, but one was reading 140. That tire was replaced before moving again. IMO, that tire was 30 minutes from causing me an issue while driving 60mph on the highway.

 

[pronstar]

trailer tires have more rubber on the side wall...

The sidewalls may be taller depending on what tire your tow vehicle has, but they absolutely are significantly thinner/less rubber. It’s not even a question when you look at them side by side.

Put an equivalent E rated trailer tire next to an E rated truck tire. The trailer tire will weight about half, and the sidewalls absolutely are significantly thinner.

If I let all the air out of the E rated tires on my 1/2 ton truck, the sidewalls will support the weight and will deform a bit but not significantly.

If I do the same on my 2-axle dump trailer that weighs half as much as my truck, with E rated trailer tires, the sidewall is crushed and the wheel is basically sitting in the ground.


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