WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

RV work recommendations--LA/OC area

Hallett_Whacker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
1,176
Reaction score
1,655
Has anyone here had the decals on their coach redone (I'm considering this, but it's not very likely I'll do it). If so by whom and around how much?

Next, I have a small leak in the trim/seal of the top of my windshield (this one's a must fix). Recommendations?

I own a Damon Outlaw--37 feet.

Thanks in advance.
 

wsuwrhr

The Masheenest
Joined
Dec 20, 2007
Messages
35,634
Reaction score
23,838
Id have long thought about doing this to ours. Dates the coach and the fuckin islander wont let me in.
 

HBCraig

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
8,875
Reaction score
11,035
My dad replaced his with paint/gel coat

Fairway Ford does good work. DO NOT USE Ferace automotive. Terrible work and they dont guve a shit
 

Hallett_Whacker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
1,176
Reaction score
1,655
My dad replaced his with paint/gel coat

Fairway Ford does good work. DO NOT USE Ferace automotive. Terrible work and they dont guve a shit
Can you give me a ballpark figure of what it cost?
 

HBCraig

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
8,875
Reaction score
11,035
I think he paid about $2500

That was the can portion and one side that was faded from the sun.
 

Shrub Lurker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Messages
961
Reaction score
837
IMG_4974.JPG
IMG_4975.JPG
IMG_4976.JPG
IMG_4977.JPG
Have you thought of doing at least part of the work yourself?
I have a vinyl sign guy that can reproduce stripes from a digital image and supply or supply and install. I think most plotter equipped vinyl guys can do this.
Now for the hard, I mean easy part:
Stripe removal. I bought one of these MDX pneumatic eraser tools. Uses a giant tire type wheel. I have done a couple small jobs with this plus three 3" stripes that went all the way around a 33' itasca. This took a little over a wheel per stripe. The better the condition of the stripe, the easier they come off. If they look like alligator skin, removal will be more difficult. The trick is to go really slow. It works really well to "erase" competing boat shops lettering on customers trailers too.
This model also comes in a 110 volt electric which I would suggest as the pneumatic uses a lot of air.
Both are expensive but a lot cheaper than paying some RV shop $150 ish an hour.
The tan wheel on the tool used to look like the new red one in the plastic. These are consumable.
I use this 3M adhesive remover for what ever may remain which is no longer available in California but is on the internet.

A good mobile windshield guy should be able to take care of your leak. Three of the last three Rv s I have had had windshield leaks that were cured by setting back the rubber moldings and pumping the void with his urathane windshield sealant in the leaking area.
This last one on our newest Southwind, had us both stumped.
The rain was coming in from the BOTTOM. But only when it rained hard (like the last two months).
It would fill the fiberglass dash area between the shield and defroster vents with up to an inch of water with no signs of drips from above.
Turned out the leak was in the lower left corner . Rubber molding would fill up with water and then siphon up through the bonding tape filling the dash from the bottom!
A google search on RV windshield leaks shows a plethora of issues.
I guess some Winnebago products rust out at the top.
RVs are all junk IMO, some are worse than others !
 
Last edited:

LowVoltSD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Messages
88
Reaction score
57
I am looking to get the same thing done on our new to us 31’ motorhome. I just had the roof resealed by Russ who was recommended on here by a few different people. He did an awesome job and comes to you. I believe he is in Ontario but came to my house in Ramona which is a haul. He also said he would remove all the old decals and buff the motorhome for a good price. He said it was a 2 day job to remove all the decals and buff the entire motorhome. I am in the process of finding a place to redo the decals now.
upload_2019-2-17_8-53-19.jpeg
 

gqchris

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
8,332
Reaction score
13,184
I did it on my old coach. Paid a guy. Was 2k. Took him and his crew 3 days and who knows how many man hours. Shit is very hard work if the decals are cracked like mentioned. It sure did update the coach though.
 
Last edited:

Meaney77

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
7,558
Reaction score
8,064
My Mom had her graphics all removed and replaced by these guys. Coach turned out okay, it has sat outside and uncovered its entire life so there was quite a bit of oxidation as well. We had hoped for a better outcome than what we got. If we had to do it all over again, I would look at getting it wrapped, I think she paid around $2500 and I think we could have had it wrapped for around the same price. Just my 2 cents.

http://accentstripes.com/
 

Bigbore500r

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
17,471
Reaction score
35,554
I'm in the same boat....just bought a 2007 35' motorhome, nice rig but decals are hammered. Got a quote to wrap it for $4500, lowest quote I could get so far. Decal removal, buff and replacement is around 3k from the places I checked. Wrapping it seems to be the best solution as it will look brand new for years to come, and seems like it will last longer than decals.
 

Hallett_Whacker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
1,176
Reaction score
1,655
View attachment 728178 View attachment 728177 View attachment 728176 View attachment 728175 Have you thought of doing at least part of the work yourself?
I have a vinyl sign guy that can reproduce stripes from a digital image and supply or supply and install. I think most plotter equipped vinyl guys can do this.
Now for the hard, I mean easy part:
Stripe removal. I bought one of these MDX pneumatic eraser tools. Uses a giant tire type wheel. I have done a couple small jobs with this plus three 3" stripes that went all the way around a 33' itasca. This took a little over a wheel per stripe. The better the condition of the stripe, the easier they come off. If they look like alligator skin, removal will be more difficult. The trick is to go really slow. It works really well to "erase" competing boat shops lettering on customers trailers too.
This model also comes in a 110 volt electric which I would suggest as the pneumatic uses a lot of air.
Both are expensive but a lot cheaper than paying some RV shop $150 ish an hour.
The tan wheel on the tool used to look like the new red one in the plastic. These are consumable.
I use this 3M adhesive remover for what ever may remain which is no longer available in California but is on the internet.

A good mobile windshield guy should be able to take care of your leak. Three of the last three Rv s I have had had windshield leaks that were cured by setting back the rubber moldings and pumping the void with his urathane windshield sealant in the leaking area.
This last one on our newest Southwind, had us both stumped.
The rain was coming in from the BOTTOM. But only when it rained hard (like the last two months).
It would fill the fiberglass dash area between the shield and defroster vents with up to an inch of water with no signs of drips from above.
Turned out the leak was in the lower left corner . Rubber molding would fill up with water and then siphon up through the bonding tape filling the dash from the bottom!
A google search on RV windshield leaks shows a plethora of issues.
I guess some Winnebago products rust out at the top.
RVs are all junk IMO, some are worse than others !
PM me your window guy's info please.
 
Top