Rzr drive belts

[Ziggy]

OEM, Gates or ?
Reading some rzr forums and like anything else, everybody has an ass.
Some comments say oem failures leave tons of strands vs a gates failure leaving chunks....as well as clutch sheaves wear varies between them.
What say our rdp experts? Lol

 

[bagged97taco]

Just put a gates on my non turbo. I’ll let you know how well it works.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I run the Gates Carbon. It will live a long happy life if you keep it under 60 in the washes. You can get up to 60-65, you just can't hold it there for minutes at a time. The belt will get too hot, start to slip, and then disintegrate. No sheave wear from stock or Gates belts that I have seen.

The Gates literally eject from the exhaust port in the clutch housing when they go. Very little to no cleanup. The belt is changed before everyone in your group can stop, get out of their car and get a beer.

The OE belt.. well we had to pull a secondary clutch off the trans once to get the cords out of it. Usually they are not that bad though.

If you have a windshield and you start to get a wiff of burnt rubber, Yes that is yore belt, and it is on it last legs. If you don't have a windshield, you probably wont smell it.

 

[DWC]

I run the Gates Carbon. It will live a long happy life if you keep it under 60 in the washes. You can get up to 60-65, you just can't hold it there for minutes at a time. The belt will get too hot, start to slip, and then disintegrate. No sheave wear from stock or Gates belts that I have seen.

The Gates literally eject from the exhaust port in the clutch housing when they go. Very little to no cleanup. The belt is changed before everyone in your group can stop, get out of their car and get a beer.

The OE belt.. well we had to pull a secondary clutch off the trans once to get the cords out of it. Usually they are not that bad though.

If you have a windshield and you start to get a wiff of burnt rubber, Yes that is yore belt, and it is on it last legs. If you don't have a windshield, you probably wont smell it.

Thought the smell thing was BS. My niece always claimed she could smell their razors belt right before it went.
Take it easy during break in. Cruise speeds only. No lead foot for a little while or it’ll be a short life for the belt. Think of belts like impellers. Annual service is better than on the trail replacement.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Thought the smell thing was BS. My niece always claimed she could smell their razors belt right before it went.
Take it easy during break in. Cruise speeds only. No lead foot for a little while or it’ll be a short life for the belt. Think of belts like impellers. Annual service is better than on the trail replacement.

I think the dial in is to actually go pre-season your new spare belt. Put on a fresh belt, go on a gentle ride and break it in, then pull it off.

Run your current belt till it pops (or you just want to change it), swap it out with your pre-seasoned belt and hammer down. That way if you are on the trail you don't have to bother with break in. That is why my belt broke on the Alamo trip. It broke on the Poker Run 6 weeks before and I really didn't break it the replacement properly.

The X3s and Turbo RZRs are simply better with belt durability than the 1000 RZR.

 

[HB2Havasu]

I've run the Gates Carbon belts on my 2015 XP1K4 for about the last 5 years. They last approximately 50%-75% of the life of the OEM Belts. Like others have said when the OEM Belts shit the bed it's a chore to evacuate all the strand remnants. (Usually involves a razor knife) The Gates Belts are a pretty easy cleanup, but as mentioned above they don't last as long, so there isn't much in real cost savings. I'm trying the Hunterworks Belt for the first time this weekend. They are the same price as the Gates Belts. I've been hearing some really good things about them and they come with a 1 year warranty so you can't lose!

 

[Ziggy]

Thanks for the comments guys.
Read some like the Hunterworks belt too. Not sure what the pros/cons are that one.
Sounds like Gates is a good choice for off highway and perhaps less so if you have to take road any distance at speed??.
Is it advisable to vary throttle if on the street with either of the belts?
Mine has an oem belt on it but no clue of its age, looks good. They gave me another oe belt as a spare but it looks to have a worn spot, like the clutch spun in one place on it.
.
Also, is there a preferred clutch pry tool or are any of the amazon/ebay offerings good enough? Still don't have that item.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Thanks for the comments guys.
Read some like the Hunterworks belt too. Not sure what the pros/cons are that one.
Sounds like Gates is a good choice for off highway and perhaps less so if you have to take road any distance at speed??.
Is it advisable to vary throttle if on the street with either of the belts?
Mine has an oem belt on it but no clue of its age, looks good. They gave me another oe belt as a spare but it looks to have a worn spot, like the clutch spun in one place on it.
.
Also, is there a preferred clutch pry tool or are any of the amazon/ebay offerings good enough? Still don't have that item.

The car will go 55 MPH without worry on the highway with any belt. There is more load on the belt in the dirt. But if you are really zinging on the road for a long time, give it a bit of a break and vary the throttle a bit. The harder you push the gas the more belt heat.

A broken belt really isn’t anything to fear or worry about if you are prepared.

As for tools, this kit for $30 will work perfectly. The black cylindrical tool releases the secondary clutch, the flexible driver letS you get all the clutch cover bolts off easily.You’d only need the 8mm and 10mm sockets in the kit to change the belt.

UNIGT Belt Changing Tool with Clutch Cover Removal Tool Kit Compatible with Polaris XP/RZR XP4 1000/RZR S 900 - Combo Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YK9ZF2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_fBGaGbBW7TTXG

Additionally, have a pair of mechanics gloves, a box cutter with a sharp blade, and a green scotch brite pad in the car. If you blow a belt on the trail, just use the scotch brite pad to scuff up the clutch surfaces a bit.

Make yourself a cocktail, watch a YouTube video on how to change a RZR 1000 belt, then go try it for yourself at home in the garage.

Aside from any cleanup you may need to do, a belt change is a 10 minute job with that tool kit.

 

[Ziggy]

I did a test run to see the belt change process sans the actual belt change. 8mm is all I used. 10mm is just to move the air hose, I just bent it up.

 

[DLC]

On my can am I added a belt temp gauge, not sure if they have or need them for the rzr, if my belt gets above 175/180 I watch it and cool it down. I’ve heard that upwards to 190-200 is hot.

 

[DLC]

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I did a test run to see the belt change process sans the actual belt change. 8mm is all I used. 10mm is just to move the air hose, I just bent it up.

Yep, in a real belt change you may want the tube out of the way, but the 8mm is the only required size.

 

[LowRiver2]

On my can am I added a belt temp gauge, not sure if they have or need them for the rzr, if my belt gets above 175/180 I watch it and cool it down. I’ve heard that upwards to 190-200 is hot.

Which temp gauge did you go with ?
I’m thinking about the rugged routes one that puts the temp display on my lowrance gps.

 

[DLC]

I built my car in 2018 so I went with razor back, it works well although it cuts out and goes blank at times. At night the light is very bright and I have to cover it with a towel as it messes up the night vision.

 

[shockwave714]

Hunterworks

 

[AZmike]

I use the OEM. There's a guy in my neighborhood, his name escapes me at the moment but he races desert for Polaris. I hit him about belts and his claim is the OEM stands up to most abuse in his situation. He mentioned testing several other brands but always get the best result with OEM. Me personally I've only used OEM and have never had any issues on my turbo xp4 .

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Which temp gauge did you go with ?
I’m thinking about the rugged routes one that puts the temp display on my lowrance gps.

If doing it today go with Rugged Routes, or AIM belt temp gauge if you want a standalone gauge.

I did a RR install, it was really easy to install and configure on the Lowrance.

 

[Ziggy]

I use the OEM. There's a guy in my neighborhood, his name escapes me at the moment but he races desert for Polaris. I hit him about belts and his claim is the OEM stands up to most abuse in his situation. He mentioned testing several other brands but always get the best result with OEM. Me personally I've only used OEM and have never had any issues on my turbo xp4 .

I'm still trying to figure out what is considered "abuse" on the belts. High speed and rpm or if frequent stop n go, hill climbing torque sorta stuff.??
My CVT knowledge is somewhat limited.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I'm still trying to figure out what is considered "abuse" on the belts. High speed and rpm or if frequent stop n go, hill climbing torque sorta stuff.??
My CVT knowledge is somewhat limited.

High speed, high load, for long periods of time. Sand for instance is harder on belts.

Also, use low gear if you are going to be under 20 MPH for an extended period of time, on a technical or rocky trail for instance. Use low gear if you are loading or unloading from a trailer or doing a 3, 5 or 10 point turn.

Remember the belt IS the clutch, so trying to creep along at 2 MPH isn’t great for it. If you have to do it, use low gear.

In Havasu there is really not enough low speed stuff to hurt the belt. If you were trying to rock crawl the thing all the time, it wouldn’t be good for the belt long term. Repetitive Stoping and starting is not really a concern, just get it moving up to 5 MPH or faster.

 

[Bpracing1127]

I have the rugged route belt temp. 600 miles on it so far and works great. I know when I am pushing the car too hard, above 180 and I’ll slow down and let it cool

 

[DLC]

I'm still trying to figure out what is considered "abuse" on the belts. High speed and rpm or if frequent stop n go, hill climbing torque sorta stuff.??
My CVT knowledge is somewhat limited.

I would say ABUSE would be pushing the car to fast in sandy wash board washes, keeping one speed say down the 95 for 20 minute, you’ll know.

average running around town and some little crawling up some canyons shouldn’t hurt it. just make sure you know how to change it And have the tolls with in the car at all times, for just in case

 

[DWC]

Remember the belt IS the clutch, so trying to creep along at 2 MPH isn’t great for it. If you have to do it, use low gear.

In Havasu there is really not enough low speed stuff to hurt the belt. If you were trying to rock crawl the thing all the time, it wouldn’t be good for the belt long term. Repetitive Stoping and starting is not really a concern, just get it moving up to 5 MPH or faster.

This^^^^
@Ziggy. The team at Just Money have some old example belts. Crawling with the belt not fully engaged scores the belt and then it’s just a matter of time running at speed. Either engage or don’t was their advice. Slipping it while stopped on an uphill light is a bad idea..

 

[LowRiver2]

If you see little “happy face smiles” on the side of the belt, tattle tale it’s going to go.
also taking cover off and blowing dust out after every trip is a good way to keep minor sand, rocks from eating away at the belt as well.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Did a preemptive belt change today 10 miles into a 45 mile ride. It was feeling lazy to respond and I could smell the belt. Car feels like it has another 15 HP now and the belt is seasoned and ready to go.

I had about 750 miles on this $80 Gates Carbon belt.

 

[AZmike]

I'm still trying to figure out what is considered "abuse" on the belts. High speed and rpm or if frequent stop n go, hill climbing torque sorta stuff.??
My CVT knowledge is somewhat limited.

I have the same thought. I personally think slow moving, rock crawling would be the worst thing for a belt. I can also see the sand riding and constantly spinning paddles or even worse dirt tires in sand being a major belt abuser.

 

[TPC]

Change mine annually or every 800 miles.

$150 - $170 a pop makes most people hesitate but it's the way to go.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Change mine annually or every 800 miles.

$150 - $170 a pop makes most people hesitate but it's the way to go.

Those Can Ams can grenade the clutch cover sometimes when the belt goes from what I have seen.

 

[Ladsm]

I am at about 2600 miles on my stock belt. I am gonna run it till 3K miles and then change it with another Polaris Belt

 

[HB2Havasu]

I've run the Gates Carbon belts on my 2015 XP1K4 for about the last 5 years. They last approximately 50%-75% of the life of the OEM Belts. Like others have said when the OEM Belts shit the bed it's a chore to evacuate all the strand remnants. (Usually involves a razor knife) The Gates Belts are a pretty easy cleanup, but as mentioned above they don't last as long, so there isn't much in real cost savings. I'm trying the Hunterworks Belt for the first time this weekend. They are the same price as the Gates Belts. I've been hearing some really good things about them and they come with a 1 year warranty so you can't lose!

Ran the Hunterworks Belt for around 150 miles last weekend with zero issues and a big Thumbs Up!

 

[87_stoker]

OEM is my choice. I change it every season and keep the old as a spare. I also run a desertcraft belt blower on my turbo s and the hottest I see is in glamis and it is only 140 degrees

 

[Ziggy]

Guy who has worked on my Rzr used to race for Hunterworks and highly recommended their belts based on how much abuse he put them through racing. He said HW or OEM belts best choice.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Guy who has worked on my Rzr used to race for Hunterworks and highly recommended their belts based on how much abuse he put them through racing. He said HW or OEM belts best choice.

I’d agree if we are talking “best” belt. From what I hear, I’d throw the Evo belt in that category too. But carry a knife of some kind

But a spare belt of any make is better than no spare .

 

[DLC]

Just make sure you know how to change it on the side of the road /trail. Do it once in the garage so you know what to expect. ALWAYS bring tools to swap out the belt even if it’s just to get fuel topped off.

if the belt pops your dead!

 

[nuthead]

I just picked up a 2021 RZR turbo S Velocity, How long or how many miles are you guys doing to brake in belts?

 

[Bpracing1127]

I just picked up a 2021 RZR turbo S Velocity, How long or how many miles are you guys doing to brake in belts?

I usually do 25-50 miles to break them in.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I just picked up a 2021 RZR turbo S Velocity, How long or how many miles are you guys doing to brake in belts?

I think we had @jbird at a solid 10 miles before we made him follow us up a steep hill in the sand

 

[jbird]

Lol. Yup, it was either keep up with the group or be left lost in the dark.

Still running that same belt, I believe it just hit 1,600 miles.