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Schiada 10er Barn Find - Update

Outdrive1

Outdrive1 Marine Sales https://www.outdrive1.com/
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Picked up this Nissan 40 NS40D today for $950. 150 in all 3 cylinders. Looks and runs like a brand new motor. Looked up the motor and it says the motor weighs about 150 online. I think I saw one of these on a 10' that was for sale a while back. Can anyone confirm if someone has used this motor on a Schiada 10?? If so please let me know who has it. Got a couple questions on how they set it up to get it to plane just right.
It's the same motor as the Tohatsu. The three cylinder has plenty of torque to get on plane. It's almost too heavy though. I hope you got a 15" mid not a 20. Put the prop shaft about an inch below the bottom.
 

sir.woody

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It's the same motor as the Tohatsu. The three cylinder has plenty of torque to get on plane. It's almost too heavy though. I hope you got a 15" mid not a 20. Put the prop shaft about an inch below the bottom.
I believe it's the 15in shaft I did a quick measurement and that's right about where it was.
 

b.y.o.t tundra

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Yes that motor is a drop in replacement for the tohatsu motor very nice motor!! Can't wait to see this finished!!
 

GGames

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I sold mine that had the Nissan 3 Banger.... you may need to add a little weight under the bow... I had my gas tank and a 50lb salt bag to help it sit better in the water. I you have any questions PM me. I got mine up to 45.5 ... seems to be the fastest so far.. way faster than Marks 45.3 :D

Suggestions:
1. I also swapped out my battery that was behind the seat for a smaller Oddesy motorcycle battery... saved a lot of weight in the back.

2. I should have got a stand off bracket that had trim. You don't need a jack plate... just trim... that was the next thing I was going to do before I sold it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CMC-PT-35-Tilt-and-Trim-Plate-New-in-Box-/302313192384?epid=1923774490&hash=item4663453bc0:m:mdJ5g9o1maNodPD50hcDYUg&vxp=mtr

3. Smart tabs... they really helped out... easier than added more switched and weight to the transom... these are super light. install about 1/4" higher than level to bottom of floor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nauticus-SX9510-40-Smart-Tab-SX-Composite-Trim-Tabs-9-5-X-10-/331579081192?epid=1322151345&hash=item4d33a741e8:g:Q0gAAOSwj0NUdmta&vxp=mtr

4. This Ron hill Prop worked very well with this motor. Make sure you get the through hub exhaust. and it looks badass.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Signature-5-Blade-Cleaver-Propeller-for-Tohatsu-40-50-HP-F18R5R-116-/152454621279?hash=item237f00e85f:g:FtUAAOSwH3NXnmXD&vxp=mtr
Mini AZZ.jpg
MINI 45mph.JPG
 

sir.woody

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I sold mine that had the Nissan 3 Banger.... you may need to add a little weight under the bow... I had my gas tank and a 50lb salt bag to help it sit better in the water. I you have any questions PM me. I got mine up to 45.5 ... seems to be the fastest so far.. way faster than Marks 45.3 :D

Suggestions:
1. I also swapped out my battery that was behind the seat for a smaller Oddesy motorcycle battery... saved a lot of weight in the back.

2. I should have got a stand off bracket that had trim. You don't need a jack plate... just trim... that was the next thing I was going to do before I sold it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CMC-PT-35-Tilt-and-Trim-Plate-New-in-Box-/302313192384?epid=1923774490&hash=item4663453bc0:m:mdJ5g9o1maNodPD50hcDYUg&vxp=mtr

3. Smart tabs... they really helped out... easier than added more switched and weight to the transom... these are super light. install about 1/4" higher than level to bottom of floor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nauticus-SX9510-40-Smart-Tab-SX-Composite-Trim-Tabs-9-5-X-10-/331579081192?epid=1322151345&hash=item4d33a741e8:g:Q0gAAOSwj0NUdmta&vxp=mtr

4. This Ron hill Prop worked very well with this motor. Make sure you get the through hub exhaust. and it looks badass.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Signature-5-Blade-Cleaver-Propeller-for-Tohatsu-40-50-HP-F18R5R-116-/152454621279?hash=item237f00e85f:g:FtUAAOSwH3NXnmXD&vxp=mtr
View attachment 586131
View attachment 586132
Yeah I'm putting the gas tank in front! And possibly locating the battery in the front. I love that prop, I am going to HAVE to do that! Thanks for all the info!
 

Riverbound

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I sold mine that had the Nissan 3 Banger.... you may need to add a little weight under the bow... I had my gas tank and a 50lb salt bag to help it sit better in the water. I you have any questions PM me. I got mine up to 45.5 ... seems to be the fastest so far.. way faster than Marks 45.3 :D

Suggestions:
1. I also swapped out my battery that was behind the seat for a smaller Oddesy motorcycle battery... saved a lot of weight in the back.

2. I should have got a stand off bracket that had trim. You don't need a jack plate... just trim... that was the next thing I was going to do before I sold it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CMC-PT-35-Tilt-and-Trim-Plate-New-in-Box-/302313192384?epid=1923774490&hash=item4663453bc0:m:mdJ5g9o1maNodPD50hcDYUg&vxp=mtr

3. Smart tabs... they really helped out... easier than added more switched and weight to the transom... these are super light. install about 1/4" higher than level to bottom of floor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nauticus-SX9510-40-Smart-Tab-SX-Composite-Trim-Tabs-9-5-X-10-/331579081192?epid=1322151345&hash=item4d33a741e8:g:Q0gAAOSwj0NUdmta&vxp=mtr

4. This Ron hill Prop worked very well with this motor. Make sure you get the through hub exhaust. and it looks badass.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Signature-5-Blade-Cleaver-Propeller-for-Tohatsu-40-50-HP-F18R5R-116-/152454621279?hash=item237f00e85f:g:FtUAAOSwH3NXnmXD&vxp=mtr
View attachment 586131
View attachment 586132
Wonder how that prop and tabs would work on a 12 with a 50
 

sir.woody

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I have not been able to work on the boat for awhile. Never got very far on it before I got super busy with life. Anyways the girlfriend decided to take a trip to Ireland with her sisters for two weeks and I finally got some time to work on this thing. I got some good news and possible bad news.

Good News: THE FLOOR IS FINALLY OUT!!!!!
Couple things I learned was someone had redone a section of the floor on this thing and added in more layers of fiberglass to only the middle section of the boat. So it had one section of flooring that was 1/2" plywood and two smaller sections in the front and rear of the original 1/4" floor. I believe the owner of the boat before the guy I got it from was the one to do it. The job looked really cheap to me but I am no expert i just think I could have done a better job.

Bad News: As I got the floor out near the transom I found another possible huge problem. The transom section that sat below the original floor was not protected by fiberglass and was exposed to some or maybe a lot of moisture. So its very possible that I might have to put a new transom in it. Going to run it down to my guy over at Hannemann Fiberglass who has years of experience to take a look at it very soon. Also noticed that above the original floor someone might have added in a section over the transom to make it stronger but Im not 100% sure.

Huge Question!
Can anyone tell me if that is the original transom design?

IF ANYONE HAS ANY INPUT ON IDEAS, TIPS, TRICKS FOR DOING STRINGERS, TRANSOMS, GELCOAT, OR ANY GOOD INFO ILL TAKE IT.


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rivergames

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Minis don't have the greatest bottoms. I would replace prior to rebuild. Otherwise you will be grinding bad cracks in the bottom after you completely restore.

I had Islander do the glass work on my mini floor. I beat the shit outta mine and she holds up without 0 issues.
 

CycloneRacing

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That bottom and floor design looks exactly how mine was except in allot better condition.
My sub-floor, stringer and transom were all rotten. I replaced all of them myself. It truly sucked and I wish I had the $$$$ to have someone do it for me. I was told by Lee that before I put the sub-floor back in to that I need to lay down more glass on the bottom/floor of the boat to give it some strength. This is very important as the original bottom of the boat was roughly an 1/8" thick. I did that then re-glasses the new sub floor in it.
Also, to get to the transom better we cut the well out and will re-glass that in later.
Is the boat still in so-cal? I can stop by and show you what I had to do to mine if you want. Or you can come look at mine as I am just in Long Beach.
 

sir.woody

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That bottom and floor design looks exactly how mine was except in allot better condition.
My sub-floor, stringer and transom were all rotten. I replaced all of them myself. It truly sucked and I wish I had the $$$$ to have someone do it for me. I was told by Lee that before I put the sub-floor back in to that I need to lay down more glass on the bottom/floor of the boat to give it some strength. This is very important as the original bottom of the boat was roughly an 1/8" thick. I did that then re-glasses the new sub floor in it.
Also, to get to the transom better we cut the well out and will re-glass that in later.
Is the boat still in so-cal? I can stop by and show you what I had to do to mine if you want. Or you can come look at mine as I am just in Long Beach.
Yeah I will be thickening but that bottom. That’s the main reason I decided to tear out the floor. I’m trying to do most of the work myself and So far so good. It’s my first time doing anything like this so I would really appreciate that. Probably be good for me to take a look at yours. I go to LB all the time so I would like to take a look at it.


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