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Speaking Of Nads

WhatExit?

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Hella bad wipeout on a monster wave.

I've done a lot of body surfing but never on a board. So I'm no expert but it looks to me that he took a bad line and was headed down the wave instead of riding it along the face.
 

monkeyswrench

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Big surf always impresses me. I was never good, but tried like hell. Even as you see that poor guy about to get hammered down, the hammer is a beautiful thing of nature...have to respect it.
 

was thatguy

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Cant imagine.

When I lived in Hawaii many years ago I got pretty good at boogie boarding.
The lifeguards would let me go out in closed conditions with the locals after seeing me for a while.
I would venture to the outside break at Waimea on a small day, but never when the big boy shit was happening.
Generally was a Mokapu regular but got to where I could do most N Shore breaks on “rookie” days...lol.

But one day at Makapu it was closed and only the locals were out. The lifeguards again didn’t stop me from going out. It was easily 8-10’ with an occasional good outside break but still with the typical Mokapu beach crash. Not as bad as Sandy’s, but if you’ve ever been there you know what I mean.

So I get a few good rides, the local boys aren’t denying me since I finally learned how to break instead of go straight down, plus I could do good flips and rolls when cutting out...so they allowed me to hang.
Then I got cocky and tried to reverse halfway down a 10’ face.
Well....
Next thing I k ow I’m on top of the wave. Then I do a 10’ plus free fall onto beach sand, then the mountain of water lands on me.
I took an ambulance ride that day.
Cracked ribs, dislocated shoulder, concussion, and a road rash that would make a Harley crash survivor blush.

And that was just a little Mokapu training wave.
I literally can not imagine what a wave like that one feels like.
If you’ve never had the ocean fall down on you, you have no idea.
It’s like a building in motion crushing you like a bug.

Hawaii Tommy in my 30’s.

I was like Patrick Swayzee in point break.


8F90A8B7-228B-4C7F-BBD0-788597381E59.jpeg
 

CarolynandBob

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Mid 90's was surfing Torrey Pines. Not huge wave, but big for me. Maybe 8 ft. When I fell and went under it pushed me to the bottom. Was not that big of deal, but when I came up I barley got my head out and another one hit me and pushed me back to the bottom. Didn't get very much air when my head was up. About half way up I started to panic a little thinking I wasn't going to make it back up in time. Scared the shit out of me and my wife.

Still surfed after that, but not much.
 
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Desert Whaler

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Seeing Water Patrol on him so fast like that is crazy. . . watching them pull back after the 2nd wave and get right back in after the 3rd was impressive to say the least . . . those dudes were ON IT . . . saved his life for sure.
 

HNL2LHC

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Cant imagine.

When I lived in Hawaii many years ago I got pretty good at boogie boarding.
The lifeguards would let me go out in closed conditions with the locals after seeing me for a while.
I would venture to the outside break at Waimea on a small day, but never when the big boy shit was happening.
Generally was a Mokapu regular but got to where I could do most N Shore breaks on “rookie” days...lol.

But one day at Makapu it was closed and only the locals were out. The lifeguards again didn’t stop me from going out. It was easily 8-10’ with an occasional good outside break but still with the typical Mokapu beach crash. Not as bad as Sandy’s, but if you’ve ever been there you know what I mean.

So I get a few good rides, the local boys aren’t denying me since I finally learned how to break instead of go straight down, plus I could do good flips and rolls when cutting out...so they allowed me to hang.
Then I got cocky and tried to reverse halfway down a 10’ face.
Well....
Next thing I k ow I’m on top of the wave. Then I do a 10’ plus free fall onto beach sand, then the mountain of water lands on me.
I took an ambulance ride that day.
Cracked ribs, dislocated shoulder, concussion, and a road rash that would make a Harley crash survivor blush.

And that was just a little Mokapu training wave.
I literally can not imagine what a wave like that one feels like.
If you’ve never had the ocean fall down on you, you have no idea.
It’s like a building in motion crushing you like a bug.

Hawaii Tommy in my 30’s.

I was like Patrick Swayzee in point break.


View attachment 994156
You told me that you like the water and waves while in Hawaii but you didn’t tell me the ambulance story Tommy. I am with you and others that know the respect for the waters in Hawaii. What I can’t get over is the guys in the 60s that went out when they had huge tanks. To see the guys pushing boards as they bail in the huge sets and the boards fly over in the wind, Then the surfers would have to swim back to the shore. That impresses me.

BTW there was a movie about the big wave surfers and how they trained for the surf. Back in the days they would go out in the water aNd carry rocks under water while walking. This helped them expand their lungs and keep calm und the water as long as they could. Some of those guys can hold their breath for minutes at a time.
 

rrrr

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My youngest brother has titanium in an ankle that was a gift from Mavericks.
 

jesco

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Largest waves I ever surfed was Jan 1988, Huntington Pier. In an hour or so time, the waves went forom big.... TO HOLY FUCKING SHIT BIG!!!! The wave I took in was purely for survival, I was getting gassed out from paddling out farther each set that came in. They just ket coming, and each one bigger and father out. Finally got into a good position and paddled into a left, which was backside for me which I SUCKED at!!! Made the drop, tuned and just road it all the way in. All my buddies were already sitting on shore. We sat there all day and watched the waves get bigger and bigger and eventually taking out the pier... I was a Junior in High School, wish I had an iphone back then to take video/pics, hahahaha. The size, sound, and force of the waves was INSANE!!
 
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