Spectra skag

[NAFLASH]

OK heres a tough question for you guy's. Does anyone know where to get the skag that mounts in front of the pumps on a Spectra 20? V drives had the same one. I cant find any info or even a generic one. Also what is going rate to completely go through a 12jc?

-Zach

 

[Flat Broke]

Glenwood should be able to hook you up with the skag/turning fin that you need.

As for the pump freshen, it's too hard to give a generic price because it will largely depend on what the condition of the impeller and wear ring are in.

I've always had good luck using Jack McClure at Marine Performance Desgins (MPD) in Costa Mesa. http://home.pacbell.net/jmcclure/ There are other guys that can rebuild pumps, but if I was going to pay anyone to work on my pump it would be Jack.

Chris

 

[NAFLASH]

pump is done. needs an impeller and wear ring. I took the bowl off and it needs a complete overhaul. On a side note, can i have it powdercoated?

 

[jetboatperformance]

pump is done. needs an impeller and wear ring. I took the bowl off and it needs a complete overhaul. On a side note, can i have it powdercoated?

Call if we can help you , solid tech help and customer service,you wont beat the pricing , all parts in stock and ready to ship , BTW not a huge fan of re-powder coating jet drive parts Tom

 

[RiverDave]

Give Tom a call on the parts.. He is a site sponsor, and I'd like to see him get some sales out of his advertising.

RD

 

[NAFLASH]

Ok sounds good, When I say powdercoating the jet, I mean just the bowl, suction housing and intake...Outside only! I tried for 3 hours last night to get that nut off of the pump shaft that holds the impeller on, I cannot for the life of me get it off.

 

[RiverDave]

Ok sounds good, When I say powdercoating the jet, I mean just the bowl, suction housing and intake...Outside only! I tried for 3 hours last night to get that nut off of the pump shaft that holds the impeller on, I cannot for the life of me get it off.

Look at the wisdom section about penetrating oil..

I'd call Danny at DCM for the skeg.. Glenwood has several and you might end up with a random dealio.. Danny's got the right part # for the ones that Howard was using on the custom cruisers etc.

RD

 

[NAFLASH]

You are just a fountain of knowledge Dave. Thanks again. I should've asked him when I bought it from him.

 

[paradise]

You are just a fountain of knowledge Dave. Thanks again. I should've asked him when I bought it from him.

One of the benefits of being as old as dave. :champagne: All that knowledge LOL
________
Angelina jolie pics

 

[NAFLASH]

Yea, now try remembering the rest, haha.

 

[Flat Broke]

Powdercoating pump parts isnt rocket science (I'm actually waiting on a batch of non boat parts to cure as I type this). You need to know how to prep the parts by getting them to offgas BEFORE you coat/cure them. An experienced shop like Embee Coatings can get the results you want.

 

[NAFLASH]

My buddy powdercoats for a living. I was asking because he would do it for free. However I wasnt sure how it would hold up under water. he will sandblast and chemical wash the outside then shoot the powder and bake it. just like everything else he does.

 

[Flat Broke]

DON'T sandblast the parts. They are cast aluminum and then hard anodized from the factory. If you sandblast the parts, you'll loose the layer of ano which is a great corrosion inhibitor; and in the process could open the surface up so that it poc marks like crazy.

I'm not knocking your buddy, but powdercoating thousands of production parts day in/day out does not exclusively imply knowledge of the metalurgy/composition of the parts you're coating. Cast aluminum parts will often have voids and air pockets beneath the surface. Because the aluminum cools quicker than steel, often times gases get trapped in the part as the outer layer cools off sealing them in. When you powdercoat the part, you usually heat the part to 400*F or so depending on the powder. This can be enough to cause some of those gasses to expand and force their way out through the porous casting. As they reach the surface two things can happen. At the least, you'll get bubbles or poc marks in your finish. At the worst, you can get poc marks in the structure of your parts.

As I said in my previous post, it's not rocket science. That being said, I wouldn't trust a rather large and expensive set of cast aluminum pieces to someone who isn't familiar with shooting these type of parts. I know of multiple guys who have had pump parts done at Embee with excellent results. I've also done pumps for myself and my brother, but to be honest, I'd charge you more than what they would because I really don't like dealing with PCing parts for other people.

If you still want your buddy to do it, that's cool, but have an understanding with him regarding who pays for what if your castings don't come out right, or get poc marked.

Chris

 

[jetboatperformance]

NA the reason we frown on the powder coatings is the potential for "spoiling" critical machine surfaces from lack of precision masking and more importantly casting distortion requireing remachining , Even inasmuch as we are across the parking lot from a quality powder coater we still elect to strip and repaint our Jet drive parts and components when necessary with high quality epoxy enamels . We have built and service hundreds of jets a year for close to 20 years and have always found this a succesfull practice. Btw we also dont bead blast for similar reasons (not withstanding contamination) and have found aircraft strippers to work well to remove the outer layers of the original coatings Tom

btw almost all bowl/drive castings can be slightly porous, some process's will actualy remove the lime depostis in the porosities , I seen this appear as tiny bubbles in the outer surfaces

 

[NAFLASH]

I understand what you guys are saying totally. I now know why the pump is green underneath the white paint too! Ill probably just strip the paint off and paint it with an enamel paint.

 

[RiverDave]

You are just a fountain of knowledge Dave. Thanks again. I should've asked him when I bought it from him.

LOL...

One of the benefits of being as old as dave. :champagne: All that knowledge LOL

I don't know about knowledge, but I know all the right people that have the knowledge.. To me that's better then having the knowledge. Because it allows me to sit on my lazy ass more often then not.

RD

 

[NAFLASH]

So I got the nut off. Now the impeller wont budge. I know its pressed on and I have a puller. It just takes chunks out of the impeller as tighten it. They arent threaded right?

 

[Devilman]

So I got the nut off. Now the impeller wont budge. I know its pressed on and I have a puller. It just takes chunks out of the impeller as tighten it. They arent threaded right?

If you are asking about the impeller being threaded on on the shaft, pretty sure that its not, but may take a special puller to get the job done.... I'm not even certain if they are pressed on. I know there is a woodruff(?) key that keeps the impeller in position on the shaft & have heard of them getting boogered up, making it difficult to remove the impeller.

I've read where some people get their pumps apart with little or no trouble at all while some fight it every step of the way. Hope yours is not one of those. I'm sure one of these guys will come in & give you a better/more detailed view of the situation though. Good luck with it. :thumbsup

 

[Flat Broke]

What kind of puller are you using? If you're using the puller that Mike at Rex sells, there's no way you should be pulling chunks out of the groove on the back of the impeller. If you're using a standard gear/pulley puller with claws, you're going to need to find a way to secure a band (a good size hose clamp might work) around the claws to keep them seated in the groove. Honestly, if you think you'll be working on the pump again, I'd buy the Rex puller. It works great, and is a solid piece.

As stated, apply heat to the impeller to see if that helps. If that is a no go, support the suction housing so the bearing is pointing down, and use a good penetrating oil like pb blaster etc on the shaft/impeller meeting point. Soak it good, and give it a try in a day or so.

FWIW, I haven't come upon an impeller I couldn't pull with the rex puller and a little heat.

I almost forgot to answer your other questions: No the impeller isn't threaded onto the shaft, nor is it pressed. The problem you are having is due to a galvanic reaction between the aluminum impeller and the stainless shaft.

Chris

 

[NAFLASH]

Im using a three arm generic puller modified to fit it. I used a hose clamp to keep it tight but it just pulled out. Ill try again tonight.

 

[NAFLASH]

Got the impeller out. It has a metal wear ring, is this correct? Not really sure how to get it out...

 

[Devilman]

Cool, glad to see you are making progress with it. Wear ring, man I have no idea.

You may give Tom @ JetBoat Perf. a buzz. I know he has been very helpful towards me, along with many others, in the past with advice, tips, etc. over the phone...

 

[Flat Broke]

A metal wear ring is normal. There will be a ring of plastic between the wear ring and the suction housing. This part is called the insulator. The easiest way I've found to pull wear rings is to melt the insulator (don't overheat the casting too much) which will basically allow the wear ring to fall right out.

Before you start doing any of this, if you have any precision measuring tools, it might be a good idea to measure the gap between the impeller and the wear ring (use feeler gauges for this) and the I.D. of the wear ring itself. This will give you an idea of where you stand clearance wise. Impellers don't automatically come with wear rings, and if yours isn't out of spec, don't bother removing it. From here on in, you'll want a good idea of the clearances invloved, the wear ring type you want to use, as well as the composition (which will partially be determined by the material of the next impeller you install). You don't want to "cook book" the steps from here on in because of the interdependencies of the parts.

There is some very basic information on wear ring diameters etc in the Rex online catalog http://www.rexmar.com/page117.html. Before you buy anything else, you might want think about the HP level's your planing on running with the new setup to make sure you buy strong enough parts, and that the metalurgy between the wear ring and your proposed impeller installation isn't problematic.

Hope that helps,
Chris

 

[NAFLASH]

The impeller is trashed. Im not sure on the clearances of the wear ring but I would bet this pump has never been takin apart. Especially if im replacing everything else anyway. I'm going with a 460. D0VE block and heads. Probably around .30 over. Ported heads. 9:1 comp. RV cam. RPM air gap intake and a 750 Demon carb. Probably 400-450hp.