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Speed cars hit the assembly Line

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RiverDave

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Cast as stated, and the mounting ears for the arms all have wear sleeves and bolts with proper sized shanks and proprietary nuts so they cant be overtightened to put the suspension in a bind.


If an arm bolt comes loose on a Polaris it starts sawing the tab because the threaded section is too long.

I can vouch for that after having a bolt failure on my ranger..

I am not worried about the toughness of the car.. when I saw them plant the front of the first one into the k rails I was pretty much sold.

I mean they are selling an air cushion for the seat so you don’t hurt your spine.. and they weren’t worried about hurting the car. 😳. Lol these things are built pretty tough..

RD
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Which is why I’m not a fan of all the arguing Jist for the sake of arguing.. things are getting lost (rapidly) in all the bullshit and sifting through all of it is difficult..

I try to listen to the podcasts but freely admit I don’t have time for all of them..

So I go off things I have heard personally from speed, some of what LOF posts when he isn’t arguing & the podcasts when I can.

If RG wasn't lying about having a little over 100 cars done, I probably saw a picture of your first car on the assembly line on his phone Friday night.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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On our Polaris units the arms have a fold spot to save the tabs from being ripped off the frame, it still happens with a hard enough impact. This seems like a strong place to attach the arms to but in a hard enough impact I would think it could still rip the ears off that diff.

This is just my feeling, but it looks like if you broke one of those tabs off, the bulkhead you'll have a host of other problems. Agreed it will be an expensive fix if you manage to do that.

On my Polaris I tried to keep the arms as the weak link for the exact reason you stated, and finding a Polaris suspension arm in a pinch is usually pretty easy. Mine is just a play car obviously, so not really pushing the limits.
 

dirtslinger2

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Which is why I’m not a fan of all the arguing Jist for the sake of arguing.. things are getting lost (rapidly) in all the bullshit and sifting through all of it is difficult..

I try to listen to the podcasts but freely admit I don’t have time for all of them..

So I go off things I have heard personally from speed, some of what LOF posts when he isn’t arguing & the podcasts when I can.

I try to only give information I have first hand, or I have heard first hand from someone that I personally know.
 

monkeyswrench

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Cast as stated, and the mounting ears for the arms all have wear sleeves and bolts with proper sized shanks and proprietary nuts so they cant be overtightened to put the suspension in a bind.

If an arm bolt comes loose on a Polaris it starts sawing the tab because the threaded section is too long. A $300 bolt kit fixes all that though.
I get custom shouldered bolts. Wear sleeves are pretty common on stuff as well...
Proprietary nuts? This makes me a bit curious.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I get custom shouldered bolts. Wear sleeves are pretty common on stuff as well...
Proprietary nuts? This makes me a bit curious.

It’s a nut with a groove that is designed to basically bottom out on the smooth shank. Put another way - the shank fits into the back of the nut. The idea is to be able to zip the car together with an impact and not worry about binding or breaking something in the front end.

Because as you know, if you overtightened a cast aluminum tab on a bulkhead, you’d have a problem.
 

monkeyswrench

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It’s a nut with a groove that is designed to basically bottom out on the smooth shank. Put another way - the shank fits into the back of the nut. The idea is to be able to zip the car together with an impact and not worry about binding or breaking something in the front end.

Because as you know, if you overtightened a cast aluminum tab on a bulkhead, you’d have a problem.
Okay, that makes sense...and a bit more fool proof than the shank having an AN washer to shoulder the stress...where someone may not see the need and not reinstall.
 

ZSTIV

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@LargeOrangeFont
Is this the picture you saw from RG? Cars rolling down the assembly line.
 

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monkeyswrench

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This is when I know I'm a sick fuk...
Seeing the pic of the chassis on the assembly line, first thing in my head is:
"I wonder if I could slip a body over that? Wheel base is a touch long, but tract is good for an early car..."
 

LargeOrangeFont

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This is when I know I'm a sick fuk...
Seeing the pic of the chassis on the assembly line, first thing in my head is:
"I wonder if I could slip a body over that? Wheel base is a touch long, but tract is good for an early car..."

Already been done my friend :)

Just have to add a Ranger VIN or something :)

These are bodies for 2 seat Can Ams.

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Heylam

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Train keeps a rolling all night long……….crash.
 

JD D05

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This is just my feeling, but it looks like if you broke one of those tabs off, the bulkhead you'll have a host of other problems. Agreed it will be an expensive fix if you manage to do that.

On my Polaris I tried to keep the arms as the weak link for the exact reason you stated, and finding a Polaris suspension arm in a pinch is usually pretty easy. Mine is just a play car obviously, so not really pushing the limits.
Upper A arms are designed to fail on our sleds. And the damn things are 25 grand by the time you get what you want and need done to it.
 

grumpy88

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Your on drugs ! The sxs industry is going to shit the bed . The market can't handle 70k sxs with 4k a year insurance . It grew because people could finance 25k and pay 500 a year in insurance . Those days are limited .
Funny thing , there is a whole new thread about this exact thing ! Sucks but writing was on the wall .
 

DLC

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Shit I’m exhausted!

I just read 5 pages of speed thread!

went from trailer hangers, delivery at Sancho to Vin or no Vin financing….

I wonder if the dealers at Sancho have to pay a % of sales to the Fair Complex (venue ) That might be why no cars are sold & delivered at Sancho - dealer would pay that fee….

I know other Venues have a % fee on sales…..
 

outboard_256

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Dirtslinger's pic is more telling, as you can see the opening in the center allowing it to be rosette welded. For those that don't know, rosette welding allows you to attach an area that would normally be left free. Instead of just the perimeter being welded, this more completes the mating of the added piece to the parent metal.

Everyone keeps talking about this new mount with the rosette weld hole that makes it stronger than the one that broke. But don't you actually have to weld the hole to be considered a rosette weld and extra strong? They didn't weld the hole so it didn't actually make it stronger at all. The chassis is already powder coated so they aren't going to go back and weld it. It is also not plugged because you can see the tube inside the hole. Besides being forged, I don't see a big improvement over the one that broke. I am also not impressed with the robot welds from these pics and from the video I saw, it looks like it just does a big tack, then moves a little, then does another one, then moves a little instead of a continuous bead.

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Start around 7:00
 
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monkeyswrench

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Everyone keeps talking about this new mount with the rosette weld hole that makes it stronger than the one that broke. But don't you actually have to weld the hole to be considered a rosette weld and extra strong? They didn't weld the hole so it didn't actually make it stronger at all. The chassis is already powder coated so they aren't going to go back and weld it. It is also not plugged because you can see the tube inside the hole. Besides being forged, I don't see a big improvement over the one that broke. I am also not impressed with the robot welds from these pics and from the video I saw, it looks like it just does a big tack, then moves a little, then does another one, then moves a little instead of a continuous bead.

View attachment 1156546

Start around 7:00
You're correct, enlarged the pic and the window doesn't appear to be welded...so it does negate the idea of rosette welding, if it's not actually done.

I would assume welding would be done previous to powder coat. Obviously, it could be sanded down, welded and the painted if done after.

As for robot welding looking like repeated tacks...pulsed mig is very common with automated welding. It's more of a ramped current than an on/off thing. On long runs, like shown, it keeps the heat build-up down, which in turn keeps warping to a minimum as well as consistency from heat/work hardening.
It also keeps weld spatter down, very limited clean up required.

I'm not one that has a car on order, so no skin in the game so to speak.
 

bentprops

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This is when I know I'm a sick fuk...
Seeing the pic of the chassis on the assembly line, first thing in my head is:
"I wonder if I could slip a body over that? Wheel base is a touch long, but tract is good for an early car..."
Ford ranger prolite body is perfect fit for the diablo.
 

ZSTIV

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Everyone keeps talking about this new mount with the rosette weld hole that makes it stronger than the one that broke. But don't you actually have to weld the hole to be considered a rosette weld and extra strong? They didn't weld the hole so it didn't actually make it stronger at all. The chassis is already powder coated so they aren't going to go back and weld it. It is also not plugged because you can see the tube inside the hole. Besides being forged, I don't see a big improvement over the one that broke. I am also not impressed with the robot welds from these pics and from the video I saw, it looks like it just does a big tack, then moves a little, then does another one, then moves a little instead of a continuous bead.

View attachment 1156546

Start around 7:00
So Robby did state that the turned over was version 4.999. The three that were version 5 (Red/Black, Blue, & Skittles car) were production.
He said the production cars will have that rosette weld in the middle. The inner pivot point may not be a plug but he stated in his video while in Asia the outer pp was a plug that was welded into the frame.
Again this is just info from his live videos and from the SSSS.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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i Was looking At my new turbo R last night and was checking Out the welds, they are actually really really clean looking. I’ll take these welds anyday View attachment 1156570 View attachment 1156571 View attachment 1156572 View attachment 1156573 View attachment 1156574 View attachment 1156575 View attachment 1156576

Honestly looks just a good as the Speed stuff in those same areas. Some of the more complicated welds buried in the car don’t look as clean on either vehicle.

That looks better than RZRs from a few years ago.


Edit: I'm sure no one will say anything about the craptastic single use spring clamps on the coolant lines 🤣🤣
 
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