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Starting issue 1993 200 L XFI outboard

boatsnhoes

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Black max that is fuel injected - today was a bad day for me…I had to get towed. The engine ran great first 15 mins then it died and I got it started for about another 30 seconds and died again. From that point the engine turns over but won’t fire - seems like a fuel issue. Any suggestions?
 

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Shlbyntro

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Almost guaranteed to be bad fuel or the vst fuel pump. If you want to try a little diag'ing put a fresh primer bulb assembly on it with fresh gas and a fresh fuel filter and pump by hand while trying to start. I do believe these units do still have a shraeder valve to test fuel pressure with. You should be looking for about 34 psi give or take. Ethanol has been killing these older fuel injection units left and right. It has also caused delam of the inner lining on some types of fuel line. Good luck
 

boatsnhoes

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Almost guaranteed to be bad fuel or the vst fuel pump. If you want to try a little diag'ing put a fresh primer bulb assembly on it with fresh gas and a fresh fuel filter and pump by hand while trying to start. I do believe these units do still have a shraeder valve to test fuel pressure with. You should be looking for about 34 psi give or take. Ethanol has been killing these older fuel injection units left and right. It has also caused delam of the inner lining on some types of fuel line. Good luck
Thank you this is very helpful. I have heard a lot about the ethanol problem! Do you think it’s a good idea to change out all fuel lines etc with new ones? They all look original to me.
 

Shlbyntro

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Yes. Regardless of what the source issue is, your going to want to at least change everything between the gas tank and the motor.

I've seen many of the older quick disconnects for the fuel lines at the cowling get worn out and not pass fuel or leak air into the system as well thats also worth checking out.
 

boatsnhoes

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Yes. Regardless of what the source issue is, your going to want to at least change everything between the gas tank and the motor.

I've seen many of the older quick disconnects for the fuel lines at the cowling get worn out and not pass fuel or leak air into the system as well thats also worth checking out.
Yes that’s what I planning on doing, as you can see from the pictures almost everything looks original. The fuel like looks kinked but that’s at trailered height of the engine I need to drop it down and see if it flattens out, if not that could be the issue which goes back to changing all the lines.
 

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jones performance

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if your bulb is soft and squshy then its sucking air somehwere before it. the fuel psi shrader is above your high psi pump, area of red arrow, theres also a screen filter in the housing there. the box is the high psi pump. i just had the high psi pump fail and leak at the wire terminals on my 200xri. lucky it didnt catch fire as the boat still ran but not at any rpm above 4k. since the pump failed i now have a high rpm cutout issue, all my lines are original so im going to replace them to see if that cures the issue. the only other thing i could have going on is a wire thats questionable since the cutout acts like losing ignition for a split second.
 

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boatsnhoes

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if your bulb is soft and squshy then its sucking air somehwere before it. the fuel psi shrader is above your high psi pump, area of red arrow, theres also a screen filter in the housing there. the box is the high psi pump. i just had the high psi pump fail and leak at the wire terminals on my 200xri. lucky it didnt catch fire as the boat still ran but not at any rpm above 4k. since the pump failed i now have a high rpm cutout issue, all my lines are original so im going to replace them to see if that cures the issue. the only other thing i could have going on is a wire thats questionable since the cutout acts like losing ignition for a split second.
Yes, it is very soft and squishy. Unfortunately I have been busy at work so I haven’t had a chance to look at it but I will update when I do.
Maybe the computer is stopping at 4K rpm?
 

jones performance

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Yes, it is very soft and squishy. Unfortunately I have been busy at work so I haven’t had a chance to look at it but I will update when I do.
Maybe the computer is stopping at 4K rpm?
it ran to 6500 before the fuel pump leaked.
 

boatsnhoes

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So I believe I figured out my problem…I bypassed the fuel tanks all the way to the primer bulb where I put the hose in gas can and boat ran perfect!

My question is I was thinking of adding a fuel pump with low pressure regulator to help move the fuel along to the engine and also removed the tank fuel diverter (see picture) and running both tanks at same time. Anyone have experience with adding the fuel
Pump and is it a good idea?
 

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Shlbyntro

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The engine will never draw from both tanks evenly.
One will be sucked dry while the other just sits mostly full. Keep some form of a switching valve. Check and clean/replace antisyphon valves. Replace fuel lines as needed. Probably a good time to rebuild/replace at least the low pressure diaphram fuel pump(s). If there's fuel stains around the valve then replace it too.
 
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Backlash

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Here is how my current setup is on our 19' Daytona with a 2.5 liter 200hp Merc. Two fuel tanks, each one down in the outside sponsons. Both tanks are plumbed to a manual valve with a single outlet in the center of the boat. The outlet line on the manual valve feeds a fuel water separator. From there, it goes up to the primer bulb, then to the motor. Seems to work fine, at least for the 10 minutes we've run it. No electric fuel pump on this setup.

On my 19' Howard with a 235 Johnson, this boat had a single belly tank which fed to an electric fuel pump, then to the fuel water separator, then to the motor. There was no regulator or return line on that setup. I never ran the boat because I bought it as a project. The motor did fire over, so.....

For what its worth, my plan was to duplicate this same setup on the Howard, but run Aeromotive filters and a pump, regulator, return line and fuel water separator. That was the original plan, but let's see what I end up doing when it comes time to hang the motor back on.

I know some of the guys with thirsty 2.5's run fuel pumps on theirs, so they would be the best to ask. I'm just sharing what little I know with you in hopes of helping out. 😉
 

boatsnhoes

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Here is how my current setup is on our 19' Daytona with a 2.5 liter 200hp Merc. Two fuel tanks, each one down in the outside sponsons. Both tanks are plumbed to a manual valve with a single outlet in the center of the boat. The outlet line on the manual valve feeds a fuel water separator. From there, it goes up to the primer bulb, then to the motor. Seems to work fine, at least for the 10 minutes we've run it. No electric fuel pump on this setup.

On my 19' Howard with a 235 Johnson, this boat had a single belly tank which fed to an electric fuel pump, then to the fuel water separator, then to the motor. There was no regulator or return line on that setup. I never ran the boat because I bought it as a project. The motor did fire over, so.....

For what its worth, my plan was to duplicate this same setup on the Howard, but run Aeromotive filters and a pump, regulator, return line and fuel water separator. That was the original plan, but let's see what I end up doing when it comes time to hang the motor back on.

I know some of the guys with thirsty 2.5's run fuel pumps on theirs, so they would be the best to ask. I'm just sharing what little I know with you in hopes of helping out. 😉
Thanks. We ended up deleting the fuel selector, running both tanks to the fuel/water separator, then to small max 5psi fuel pump, then to the engine. It’s been pumping gas via both tanks pretty even the first few runs and my dads Schiada was rigged this (which is why we tried this method). I love to see your arrangement when you do get the motor back on! Here’s the setup in pics before sinching some of the wiring down…
 

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boatsnhoes

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The engine will never draw from both tanks evenly.
One will be sucked dry while the other just sits mostly full. Keep some form of a switching valve. Check and clean/replace antisyphon valves. Replace fuel lines as needed. Probably a good time to rebuild/replace at least the low pressure diaphram fuel pump(s). If there's fuel stains around the valve then replace it too.
We have been out a few times and gas has pumped pretty even based off filling up for the next run. But definitely need to replace the antisyphon valves - we replaced ALL fuel lines. Where the diaphragm fuel pump? Thanks for your help!
 

Shlbyntro

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It/they are mounted on the motor itself. If memory serves me, you have 2 on your engine and they should look something like this
Screenshot_20210824-173347_Google.jpg
 
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