Stripped set screw, broken easyout

[PDQH20]

UFP 9.75" 5x4.5" lugs discs brake hub and rotor with stainless set screw. Is it toast or can it reasonably be saved?

What say the master machinists?

 

[rvrrun]

I'd say for the amount of time you'll spend removing it, replacing it would be the way to go.

A ton of heat is going to be the best bet now, if you can get the EZ out out of there.

 

[Yellowboat]

Edm

 

[Racey]

I have literally never had an easy out work on anything except something that was finger tight, i don't even bother with them any more. Now you are screwed though, a left handed drill bit would have been a much better bet, but they don't work to well going into an easy out....

Heat it up to where it sizzles water and drop it into a coffee can of 50% AFT and 50% Acetone, and do it outside, away from any source of ignition as it will boil and the vapor that comes off is INCREDIBLY combustable.

Then go to work with a left hand drill.

That being said, the rotor is probably cheaper than going through all of that.

 

[4Waters]

Get one of these, problem solved.

 

[fishing fool]

Is the setscrew for oil death hubs?
If so leave it and put grease

 

[CoolCruzin]

If Set screw is for oil plug ( weld ) and drill a new one

 

[redone76]

I’ve gotten lucky a few times shattering the broken easy out with a punch and then clear out the shards. Resume attacking it with a left handed drill bit


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[LargeOrangeFont]

I have literally never had an easy out work on anything except something that was finger tight, i don't even bother with them any more. Now you are screwed though, a left handed drill bit would have been a much better bet, but they don't work to well going into an easy out....

Heat it up to where it sizzles water and drop it into a coffee can of 50% AFT and 50% Acetone, and do it outside, away from any source of ignition as it will boil and the vapor that comes off is INCREDIBLY combustable.

Then go to work with a left hand drill.

That being said, the rotor is probably cheaper than going through all of that.

I just had this same conversation with my Dad last week. I’ve never had one work either.

 

[wsuwrhr]

I’ve gotten lucky a few times shattering the broken easy out with a punch and then clear out the shards. Resume attacking it with a left handed drill bit

Attacking. Noted.

 

[wsuwrhr]

It would be easy to get out with a carbide endmill, providing the tool extension wasn't so long.

Where are you located?

View attachment 650145

UFP 9.75" 5x4.5" lugs discs brake hub and rotor with stainless set screw. Is it toast or can it reasonably be saved?

What say the master machinists?

 

[Rajobigguy]

It wont get a broken ez-out removed but for those that dont have success with extractors this is the only set you should ever use.


Straight-Flute Extractor, Drill Bit, and Drill Bushing Sets

The extractors in this set are matched with the right drill bit sizes as well as bushings to help you drill a centered hole into the broken part. The straight-flute shape provides the tightest fit and the most contact but also causes the most expansion. Insert directly into pipe or drill a hole in a fitting. Tap the extractor in with a hammer and turn. The part will back out without damaging the threads around it.

For Screw
No. of Extractors
Included Thread Dia. Size For Pipe
Size Overall Lg. Turns
With Material No. of Drill
Bits Included Drill Bit Size No. of Drill
Bushings Included Container Type Each
For Right-Hand and Left-Hand Threads
Right-Hand High-Speed Steel Drill Bits
5 0.24"-0.56" 1/4"-9/16" (M6-M14) __ 2 3/8"-3 3/4" Wrench Steel 5 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 11/32" 10 Plastic Case 2565A2 $104.60
14 0.24"-1" 1/4"-1" (M6-M24) 1/8-1 2 3/8"-4 3/4" Wrench Steel 9 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 11/32", 7/16", 1/2", 5/8" 40 Plastic Case 2565A1 534.35

 

[RiverDave]

I'm happy reading this thread.. LOL

I always figured I was a fucking idiot, because I've literally NEVER been successful with an EZ OUT.. LOL I normally will drill em, or I'll take a small punch and back them out that way.

RD

 

[wsuwrhr]

The extractor is a tapered tool anyway. Are you able to get something in from the inside to push it out?

I am in Upland, If you are local to me, bring it by, Ill give it a once over.

Brian

 

[wsuwrhr]

Ezouts suck anyway, there are cases they do work, but they usually end up broke off in the hole.

Brian

I'm happy reading this thread.. LOL

I always figured I was a fucking idiot, because I've literally NEVER been successful with an EZ OUT.. LOL I normally will drill em, or I'll take a small punch and back them out that way.

RD

 

[dryhoze1]

Ezout ... definitely the wrong name for those fu***ng things

 

[PDQH20]

It would be easy to get out with a carbide endmill, providing the tool extension wasn't so long.

Where are you located?

Located in North OC

 

[PDQH20]

It wont get a broken ez-out removed but for those that dont have success with extractors this is the only set you should ever use.


Straight-Flute Extractor, Drill Bit, and Drill Bushing Sets

The extractors in this set are matched with the right drill bit sizes as well as bushings to help you drill a centered hole into the broken part. The straight-flute shape provides the tightest fit and the most contact but also causes the most expansion. Insert directly into pipe or drill a hole in a fitting. Tap the extractor in with a hammer and turn. The part will back out without damaging the threads around it.

For Screw
No. of Extractors
Included Thread Dia. Size For Pipe
Size Overall Lg. Turns
With Material No. of Drill
Bits Included Drill Bit Size No. of Drill
Bushings Included Container Type Each
For Right-Hand and Left-Hand Threads
Right-Hand High-Speed Steel Drill Bits
5 0.24"-0.56" 1/4"-9/16" (M6-M14) __ 2 3/8"-3 3/4" Wrench Steel 5 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 11/32" 10 Plastic Case 2565A2 $104.60
14 0.24"-1" 1/4"-1" (M6-M24) 1/8-1 2 3/8"-4 3/4" Wrench Steel 9 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 11/32", 7/16", 1/2", 5/8" 40 Plastic Case 2565A1 534.35

That's very cool.

 

[PDQH20]

I'd say for the amount of time you'll spend removing it, replacing it would be the way to go.

A ton of heat is going to be the best bet now, if you can get the EZ out out of there.

I thought about applying heat but then thought that heating one spot might make the rotor subject to fracturing. That would not be good for anyone.

Thinking now after all of the great input, of installing new rotors with Vault caps and be done with it for a while.

Thank you all for your advice!

 

[Icky]

Try the hammer and pin method as mentioned, it typically will shatter after some good hits. Gonna need to chase the threads with a tap when you're done getting the set screw out

 

[spectra3279]

Try the hammer and pin method as mentioned, it typically will shatter after some good hits. Gonna need to chase the threads with a tap when you're done getting the set screw out

Wear safety glasses. Those ezouts explode when they shatter

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[Outdrive1]

Man I wouldn’t waste my time with it. Just buy a new hub and be done with it. They aren’t a fortune compared to the time you have into it.

Second thought if you’re dead set on winning at this point, is the hub still on the trailer? Why not remove it and see if the pipe plug is sticking through the other side? If so you can heat it up and grab it with pliers and back it out. If it backs out at all you can use a screw driver on the other side and try to turn it. I have better luck with screw drivers on broken bolts then any thing else. Just tap it until it has a groove, push hard as fuck and turn.


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[lbhsbz]

I've posted this before and I'll post it again....

Use your fucking brain.

If a bolt...call it 3/8" diameter...or 0.375" broke when trying to remove it....what the hell is going through anyone's head when they feel that a tool, of necessarily lesser diameter, won't break when trying to remove the same broken fastener?

Broken bolt removal 101....or 100.5 for those that have already thought EZ-outs were a good idea.

Understand why the bolt broke....there are 2 failure modes...tension or seizure. If the bolt failed becuase it went past it's elastic state, into the plastic state and broke while overtightening...there is very little thread tension unless you were using a really shitty bolt, and an EZ-out will work...but so will a left hand drill, which renders EZ-outs obsolete.

If the bolt is rusted / seized in place...such that it breaks off when attempting to loosen using the bolt head...the threads are now one with the hole. There is no way an EZ-out will work. Our choices in this situation are either un-bond the bolt threads from the hole threads..which requires impacts, heats, penetrating oil, or a combination of these, or mechanical removal (drill it out).

 

[whipple charged]

For Future reference..
Use a Dremel tool and 953 bit(s)..
Takes forever but it works..
Done it a few times when I have broken ez-out inside hole i drilled in bolt..

 

[welldigger00]

If I have a tough broken bolt like this, I usually use the welder. Build up a bead on top of the bolt head, without welding it to the bolt hole, high enough to have it flush with a washer that you place over the built up bead. Then weld the washer to the bead. Then weld a nut onto the washer. Now you have something to get a wrench on. On bigger bolts, even ones broke off down in the hole, I’ve used a stick welding electrode called Extractaloy. It has a proprietary flux that won’t stick to the threads of the hole. This is my go to every time.


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[nowski]

Inexpensive parts buy a new one, expensive parts try this place...

http://brokentap.com/

 

[HALLETT BOY]

I’m pretty sure that fill plug is a pipe thread , it’s probably in there very snug . By the time you break more easy-outs , taps etc , you’ll be time and money ahead to buy a new hub .

 

[Big Chorizo]

With all the time invested trying to get it out I would just opt for a new hub as well. $52.00 at Pacific Trailer.

https://www.pacifictrailers.com/pro...fp-db-35-9-75-zinc-plated-5-on-4-5-3-7k-41019

 

[boatdoc55]

Inexpensive parts buy a new one, expensive parts try this place...

http://brokentap.com/

Well I'll be damned, Jerry's is still there. They pulled my ass out of the fire many times back in the day!!! Good for them.

 

[PDQH20]

With all the time invested trying to get it out I would just opt for a new hub as well. $52.00 at Pacific Trailer.

https://www.pacifictrailers.com/pro...fp-db-35-9-75-zinc-plated-5-on-4-5-3-7k-41019

Thanks, Big. Pacific Trailers has been my fall-back plan. It's tough for me to jump to replacement if I can fix it. At the price though, how much time and effort you can afford to invest? Been trying to get hold of their parts dept to verify stock all day. Will try again tomorrow.

 

[Universal Elements]

Thanks, Big. Pacific Trailers has been my fall-back plan. It's tough for me to jump to replacement if I can fix it. At the price though, how much time and effort you can afford to invest? Been trying to get hold of their parts dept to verify stock all day. Will try again tomorrow.

This place (Dycorp USA Inc) is closer to you and probably cheaper. Your time is money. Keep the old one for a spare to use in emergencies.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tra...afari#istate=lrl:iv&rlimm=6721094449516955305

 

[REVENGE 97]

etrailer.com

 

[PDQH20]

This place (Dycorp USA Inc) is closer to you and probably cheaper. Your time is money. Keep the old one for a spare to use in emergencies.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tra...afari#istate=lrl:iv&rlimm=6721094449516955305

Good info. Didn't know about these guys but I do now.

Ended up going to Shadow Trailers in Cypress. Steve hooked me up with a replacement and called UFP to ensure that the new rotor would fit my axle, caliper and wheels. Super nice and helpful folks over there.

Having the fenders and steps replaced there in the next couple of weeks.

 

[ka0tyk]

ah ez outs, gotta love em.