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Tales Of A Mercenary Mechanic

monkeyswrench

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That a big black hose had fallen off ? No fuel tank, oil leak ?? Square thingy in bottom of other thingy 😁
No pics of 37 issues yet ;)
That guy said it had been missing and stumbling before " had to be the carb". He went out and bought a new carb for it...500$ for a 2 barrel! Well, it isn't the carb. Wish it were, the problem at hand is the distributor. Like playing Twister to get it out to work on it.
 

Taboma

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No pics of 37 issues yet ;)
That guy said it had been missing and stumbling before " had to be the carb". He went out and bought a new carb for it...500$ for a 2 barrel! Well, it isn't the carb. Wish it were, the problem at hand is the distributor. Like playing Twister to get it out to work on it.
I thought that plate came off the Monkey mover, oh boy, puff puff pass, I mean me of course πŸ˜‚
 

monkeyswrench

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I thought that plate came off the Monkey mover, oh boy, puff puff pass, I mean me of course πŸ˜‚
The good thing for me, with these two projects side by side, one is hardcore metric, the other conversly standard. Lots of tools out, but don't need to go back and forth looking for stuff :p
That, and I sure as hell won't mix parts!
 

monkeyswrench

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Ok, on "hold for parts" on the 37. Looks like a gutted fish, trans is out and have a clutch coming for it. Woohoo...

So, back to Monkey Mover. Got a Napa 1056 filter for the oil, backflushed the radiator and drained the trans. Most of these went well...one raised some questions...
The trans only had a couple tablespoons of oil...oh crap. It was thick, and a little on the pungent side, even for gear oil. I made the executive decision to verify the good, the bad or the ugly. Rather find out the trans is junk here, than after the owner gets it back. So, I pulled the shift linkages, and pulled the trans top...had to take a look.
Surprisingly, the the trans looks great. Synchros look good, gears look good. If I wouldn't have looked, something would have happened. Better safe than sorry.
2020-10-05 23.49.28.jpg

So, flushed it out, fished with a magnet and refilled with fresh gear oil. This was the main reason I hadn't started it yet...was a little worried. So, we move along now. The intake boot is ripped, so need to find something comparable...lawnmower section I guess...
Bumpin' along...
 

monkeyswrench

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Well, this goes in the "MacGuyver" award winner stack...
2020-10-06 08.50.49.jpg

The choke cable must have broken at one point, so it was replaced with a universal. The universal doesn't have a ball reciever. A butt connector was used to mate the old and new together. Never seen that before. Cable swedges and such, sure...but never a stereo connector. Going to have to get creative, but not that creative.
 

lbhsbz

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Well, this goes in the "MacGuyver" award winner stack... View attachment 929449
The choke cable must have broken at one point, so it was replaced with a universal. The universal doesn't have a ball reciever. A butt connector was used to mate the old and new together. Never seen that before. Cable swedges and such, sure...but never a stereo connector. Going to have to get creative, but not that creative.
meh, wire is wire.
 

monkeyswrench

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Well, shit howdy. Parts came for the 37, woohoo! Went to remove the old pilot bearing from the flywheel, and it laughed at me, an evil bitchy laugh at that. The center of the bearing came out, and some ball bearings like birdshot, but race didn't budge. After fiddlefartin' with it for a bit, ended up cutting it almost through with a carbide die grinder bit...in a drill for lower speed...and splitting it with a chisel. Then came the clutch alignment too fiasco...don't know where it is. Ended up stipping an input shaft from another trans I had here.
2020-10-09 00.18.58.jpg

Oh, and for the vast majority of humans under 70...a minor pain in the ass on early Fords, you have to pull the rear axle to pull the trans:mad:
2020-10-09 00.18.18.jpg

More pics and relatively worthless info tomorrow. Think I'm helping a neighbor with a horse shelter again during the daytime...always an adventure!
 

SOCALCRICKETT

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Hey monkey, check your pm, I sent you one earlier

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 

Blue

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Well, this goes in the "MacGuyver" award winner stack... View attachment 929449
The choke cable must have broken at one point, so it was replaced with a universal. The universal doesn't have a ball reciever. A butt connector was used to mate the old and new together. Never seen that before. Cable swedges and such, sure...but never a stereo connector. Going to have to get creative, but not that creative.
Looks it held together and worked for a long time LoL
 

monkeyswrench

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Ok, fired the HiJet...and it sounded like a baby farting in the bathtub...
Carb needs some work, but it was wishful thinking. Repaired a cracked rubber fuel line connection from the tank, and pump is pumping. So off came the carb. First off, wanted to know how expensive a kit was, to know how careful to be. Apparently, damn careful. If the accelerator pump is good, we ain't getting a kit! Stupid money for the pump and three gaskets.
2020-10-20 23.23.36.jpg

First off, I learned what looks like Arram, isn't. This actually says "Aisan"...WTF?!...but I digress.
2020-10-20 23.24.12.jpg

Yup, crap in there. Someone's been here before, maybe a gorilla with an impact driver and crazy glue. It's blown apart, and the main body is soaking in a Berryman's bath. Accelerator pump is good, and I'll probably cut new gaskets. Only one issue.
2020-10-20 23.23.02.jpg

The gorilla got sloppy with the mixture screw, or someone used it as a leverage point. I'll get that sorted out...
Main goal is to have it both run, and not puke gas under the driver's butt. Set the bar high!
 

monkeyswrench

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Metric pain in the ass! Used a pin vice and appropriate drill bits to clear some copper oxide crap from the jetting. Seems the ethanol in the new gas does it to the brass in carbs. Between that, and the sediment, makes some nasty stuff after a year or three
2020-10-21 23.50.06.jpg

The carb kits for these things are about 100$. All they are is an accelerator pump and gaskets. No jets, springs...nothing. Since the pump was good, just made some gaskets. Most of the time was spent cleaning the passages in the carb body and the jets. Probably pop it back on tomorrow and fire the massive 2 cylinders of fury...
 

Shlbyntro

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Metric pain in the ass! Used a pin vice and appropriate drill bits to clear some copper oxide crap from the jetting. Seems the ethanol in the new gas does it to the brass in carbs. Between that, and the sediment, makes some nasty stuff after a year or three View attachment 934242
The carb kits for these things are about 100$. All they are is an accelerator pump and gaskets. No jets, springs...nothing. Since the pump was good, just made some gaskets. Most of the time was spent cleaning the passages in the carb body and the jets. Probably pop it back on tomorrow and fire the massive 2 cylinders of fury...
Isn't that insane?! A carb rebuild kit for a weber/carter/ edlebrock 4bbl is like that as well, and you can buy a whole new carburetor for only $25more. Something just isn't right in that scenario....
 

coolchange

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Okay bear with me here a minute...
I'm sure you guys have collected all your little hole punches that you made for gaskets over the years. I know I have a bunch.
I'm getting the wife a new silhouette decal sticker cutter machine. Been waiting for the new 20-in pro version. It's whiter obviously 20 in. It also comes with heavier duty cutters and optional cutters.
The new machine says it will also cut balsa wood, vinyl, cardboard, in limited thickness.
I think you can see where I'm going with this...
 

monkeyswrench

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Okay bear with me here a minute...
I'm sure you guys have collected all your little hole punches that you made for gaskets over the years. I know I have a bunch.
I'm getting the wife a new silhouette decal sticker cutter machine. Been waiting for the new 20-in pro version. It's whiter obviously 20 in. It also comes with heavier duty cutters and optional cutters.
The new machine says it will also cut balsa wood, vinyl, cardboard, in limited thickness.
I think you can see where I'm going with this...
Wow! In Cali, my buddy's "shop neighbor" cut some gaskets for me with a water jet. It was weird graphite type stuff. He sandwiched the material between two sheets of balsa wood. I don't even know how the plotters work, but if they say it can cut cardboard, it should cut old school paper gaskets. Be quicker than hole punches and X-acto knives.

Redneck tip: leather punches are easily found at craft stores, even Harbor Freight. What also works for holes in gaskets, used shell casings. Handful of different calibers in the top of the tool box, brass or steel. Back the gasket with wood, smack shell with mallet...simple.
 

coolchange

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I'm thinking you could set a flange or bowl etc on a scanner, trace it in the software, then cut. For one it might not pencil out but for multiple s, and then save the file.
 

monkeyswrench

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Well, instead of throwing the carb on, and crossing my fingers, we're in the midst of a couple things. First off, choke cable end. The butt connector did not come apart nicely. Due to the angle from the bracket to the linkage, it had broken very close to the end. I dug through some stuff, and found a ball linkage that had been cut. I shortened it up, drilled the end, and crimped onto the cable. Primitive, but pretty stock in appearance when assembled.
2020-10-23 16.04.11.jpg

Then I decided, "hmmm, wonder if the valves have ever been adjusted?" So, off came the valve cover. Then I decided I'd better clean up the valve cover, so it's ready to drop back on.
2020-10-23 16.03.31.jpg

Going to do a compression check before and after setting valves...only two cylinders, so not too time consuming.

I know, should do the important stuff first. It is Friday though, and sniffing paint fumes is one of the only fringe benefits of wrenching πŸ˜‚
 

lbhsbz

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I'm thinking you could set a flange or bowl etc on a scanner, trace it in the software, then cut. For one it might not pencil out but for multiple s, and then save the file.
Or if you know anyone with a Cricut...there are a few videos out there...it works pretty damn good.

 

monkeyswrench

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Well, last night my wife got home from her wonderful teaching job, and we have issues. She can't wear a mask, but has been told a plexiglass sneeze guard would suffice.
The ones they make are too small...according to them. The other difficulty is they sit on the table...she teaches kinder, a lot of showing kids how to do things.
Improvise:
She does small groups at a u shaped table. So, made a curved base of pvc by heating it with a torch, and bending it around a piece of a 50gal drum.
2020-10-24 22.04.50.jpg

Next I found my clear plexi type stuff, robbed a cheap poster frame from the wifes stuff. I took the front, and cut it in half on the shear. Next, I cut a reciever groove in the base, and cut it in half.
2020-10-24 22.03.47.jpg

Then I cut some uprights, also with slots to hold the plexi.
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Tomorrow I'll see how high off the table she needs it, and cut some legs.
2020-10-24 22.03.17.jpg

Should have been doing Monkey Mover stuff...but the payback's better from wife πŸ˜‚
 

monkeyswrench

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The last week or two has been an absolute flustercluck. I got back to the Monkey on a limited basis. I popped the valve cover to adust the valves. That I thought I should probably pull the front cover and check the timing belt. Timing belt looks to have been replaced and in very good shape. It I wouldn't have looked, it would probably have been bad...Murphy's Law.
2020-11-05 08.06.24.jpg

Had to pull the fan and shroud, here's something for scale.
2020-11-05 08.05.50.jpg

Figured with Az heat and lack of humidity, probably should inspect the 42 year old fan for cracks and such.

...it may snow here this weekend, so also dug out the heater. Tune up and clean up, fired of fine and ready to go. Not pimp forced air and heat out here, but so much better that working outside!
2020-11-05 08.05.23.jpg
 

monkeyswrench

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So, since the weather is a bit of a bitch, switched gears a bit. Motor and most accompanying parts are back together, but driving is a no go anyway. So, to keep things moving forward, I started on the windshield. First off was removal...apparently they didn't think this would ever be needed.
2020-11-09 17.32.22.jpg

The top and sides are made up from one continuous U channel, like a manx type deal. The lower channel is riveted to the upper, and all the way across the cowl. That being the case, it's staying put, and I pulled the upper and windshield glass.
2020-11-09 17.30.47.jpg

When the boss said he wanted it replaced, I hadn't noticed how bad it was. In sunlight, it looked like privacy glass. It's old Lucite, pitted and foggy. I used the old one, and traced it out on a new piece of .220" acrylic.
2020-11-09 17.31.34.jpg

I left the protective film on it while I cut it, and when putting it back in the frame. Hopefully get it put back on tonight. Less chance of damage on the car than on a table...
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It has a slight bow up top, and fairly straight across the bottom. Oddly enough, the acrylic is cut straight on top, and curved at the bottom. So far so good!
 

RiverDave

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Bad ass Kevin! Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!
 

monkeyswrench

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Well, I had to "message" the lower channel. It looks as the extrusions were bend to fit, over someone's knee. It was slightly kinked, making the channel narrow. I wonder if they were a flat deal that was assembled and tweaked to fit the body?
2020-11-09 23.12.54.jpg

It's in the channels, and channels are pinned together. The assembly is attached to the body with some of the old hardware for now. Going to see about some new hardware tomorrow. Also going to replace the riveted joints with screws. Not a fan of the pop rivets, but they'd be easier. It will make it easier on the next guy if it's screwed together.
 

monkeyswrench

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Ok, here is the windshield in all it's glory :p the lower screws which attach the frame to the cowl are #18x3" sheet metal...they don't make those "pretty". Closest available option was cad plated lags, so, nope. I reinstalled the old ones and painted them black. The pop rivits were replaced with #6 sheet metal screws. A little more bulky than rivits, but no hole, and easier to remove for paint. The acrylic is clear, and no distortion to speak of in the curve. Was a little worried about that.
2020-11-10 23.37.52.jpg
 

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Ok, here is the next small dilemma. The top support pieces that were screwed into the B-pillar top have worked loose, and stress cracked the metal. It appears to be 20ga, so not a lot of "meat" to work with.
2020-11-14 16.25.21.jpg

The cap itself is welded in a few spots, and also a sheet screw. Welding the holes and cracks would probably make the metal too hard to flex, become brittle. Installing nutserts or the like would still leave the stresses on 4 points, maybe totaling 1sq inch. I felt the need to distribute it a bit more, and forming an entire cap (x2) may be beyond my ability, or at least 4-20 attempts. Sooo...
2020-11-14 16.24.02.jpg

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I cut some 3/16ths plate slightly larger than the mounting feet in question. There is just about that much room between the cap piece, and the cab back/bulkhead. I drilled and tapped the four mounting holes for 1/4x20 stainless machine screws, as the oval type head fit the recess well.
2020-11-14 16.25.53.jpg

Here you can see the general idea. The plate will rest on top of the bulkhead, beneath the cap. It will then in turn sandwich the weaker metal against the mounting foot. The plate needed to be radiused and shaped to fit inside and against the cap. This was both for fit, as well as limiting wear areas. One is on, the other soon. I'll get some more pics in a bit.
 

monkeyswrench

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Evening update. Got the other side done and on. There had been previous brazing for some repairs before the last paint job it looked. Kind of thinking some of these ideas were not planned to go 40 years. It has though, with fairly minimal issues when you think about it.
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Here's the plate radiused and fit for the cap. Goofy looking, but functional.
2020-11-14 23.45.55.jpg
 

RiverDave

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If I want to take that top cap off and replace or RE chrome.. is that possible wkth the plate underneath?
I thought those top caps are welded on.. or is the back up plate welded to the top cap?
 

OLDRAAT

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First try to buff it. It could be stainless. Rechrome as a last option. Stripping the old chrome may etch the base material.
 

monkeyswrench

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If I want to take that top cap off and replace or RE chrome.. is that possible wkth the plate underneath?
I thought those top caps are welded on.. or is the back up plate welded to the top cap?
The backing plate is pretty much an interference fit. It will get tack welded to the cap, but still had seat backs on at the time of the pics...didn't want to pock mark them. That will also give the top cap more rigidity, as it is welded front, back and outside, but not the inside when it was built.
First try to buff it. It could be stainless. Rechrome as a last option. Stripping the old chrome may etch the base material.
The bases are a pot metal and chrome design. It may be cheaper, in a city full of boat shops, to order new bases. The cost of chrome is out of control.
 

monkeyswrench

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Well shit howdy...
Got the ignition coil on, and did some mild wiring repair due to rodent chewing. I went through the great book of Daihatsu, and found roughly where the timing was supposed to be. For future reference, the Japanese decided to do the timing marks on the flywheel...like a tractor...but then suffed the window down low, under the body and behind the battery box. Not a fan of that logic. I fired it up, all 2 cylinders roared to life. I messed with the carb a bit and let her idle for a little while, trying to warm her up. Well, she started to "smoke"...out the tailpipe, but pretty heavy. I rapped it up, hoping for condensation to clear out of the exhaust...no sir, she wasn't having it. I shut her down, and saw a small leak had developed at the front of the motor. It appeared to be the lower radiator hose. Looking closer, it may be the head gasket:confused: So, kind of worried. This was the first time I had it running long enough to reach any sort of running temp. I'll look at it closer tomorrow, after taking a look at the engine/cylinder head diagrams in the HiJet handbook. Seems really weird to have coolant haze out the tailpipe, and external leakage, but clean oil. The compression was on the low end, but nothing like a blown gasket. When I drained the radiator, it was near empty, and mostly water. The oil showed no sign of moisture when it was drained...

There is a possibility of there being electralysis or porosity in the head casting. It is an aluminum head, and it has an iron block...just like boats, but no sacrificial anode deal. I'm not familiar enough with the head castings themselves to say for sure though. It could be theoretically possible for there to be a coolant passage in close proximity to the exhaust ports, seeping on the port side of the valves. There are always coolant passages around the perimeter of the cylinder.

I'll check for water contamination in the oil tomorrow afternoon. If it's good, I'll do some poking around and figure it out.
 

monkeyswrench

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I have other peoples' crap to get ready for Glamis today, but will get at it this afternoon. Too many of these things still running around 3rd world countries for me to be too worried yet!

Adapt and overcome. It's just another type of motor.
 

RiverDave

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I have other peoples' crap to get ready for Glamis today, but will get at it this afternoon. Too many of these things still running around 3rd world countries for me to be too worried yet!

Adapt and overcome. It's just another type of motor.
you going to glamis?
 

monkeyswrench

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you going to glamis?
Unfortunately not...haven't been in almost 20 years! When my buddies went long travel, I sold my buggy and bought a house. Well, three kids and four houses later...
Still would like to get an old school Sand Cars Unlimited...beam and irs. Wife and I have quads, but kids have outgrown the 50s and 80s...and then quads got stupid expensive, even for beaters. So, we just do the river, for now at least.
I really enjoy this thread. Thank you for sharing.
Glad people seem to like it. I can't add much to the boating part of the website. Some mechanical stuff crosses over, but I have been primarily a wheeled type. I got a late start compared to some here. So, we putter along!
 

monkeyswrench

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We have a victory! After consulting the HiJet handbook, I saw what may be an issue. Last night I popped the valve cover off, and re-torqued the cylinder head. The torque spec is "4-5kg-m" or, for us Americans, 28.9 to 36.2ft-lb. I set the wrench-o-meter at 36, and set them down. For reference, I usually run small blocks closer to 70ftlb! This is a delicate little sewing machine of a motor. I figured it was worth a shot. Most of these era motors run a graphite type gasket with steel fire rings surrounding the cylinder bore. Limited liquid was entering the cylinder...hard to say if any was, as the oil was not contaminated. So, fired it up, and ran it for about 45 minutes. The burnt coolant smell and smoke is gone, and the the constant drip is gone from the front of the head!










At the end of the clip you can see the silica and "stuff" that came out the tailpipe. At roughly 6" off the ground, it managed to get some grit in it from wind I assume. At first I thought it was rust, and some is, but more sand. Little alternator is pushing 14 volts. The temp gauge reads near 3/4 temp, but laser temp at radiator is 160, as is the block temp. So far so good for today's adventure. The carb, as it turns out, is a "smog" type deal with some emissions stuff that is not covered in the book. A little more adjusting to get it perfect, so probably only 25 of it's potential 28hp available. Still good progress I think...was worried last night's efforts may have been in vain. Glad they weren't.
 

Shlbyntro

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The carb, as it turns out, is a "smog" type deal with some emissions stuff that is not covered in the book. A little more adjusting to get it perfect, so probably only 25 of it's potential 28hp available. Still good progress I think...was worried last night's efforts may have been in vain. Glad they weren't.
You should put fuel injection on it. That will solve all your problems πŸ˜‰
 

monkeyswrench

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M.M. update from Friday morning. At 7am, shop temp was 45. Cold start it takes a bit more cranking than I am happy with. I know it needs more choke/fuel adjustment, but not bad. I went about my day, and tried restarting at 4pm. Fired easy, idled no problem. Timing and vacuum advance seem to be spot on as well.

Well, then I packed my duffle bag, cleaned up and had dinner with the family. After dinner, headed out to Cali. Saturday was my friend Bill's funeral. Had a wake of sorts at his store afterwards. Kind of cool, Forest Lawn in Covina has a 63 Caddy hearse. At least it wasn't a new Caddy, this one had style.
This was taken behind the store Saturday night...his and his son's cars.
2020-11-23 07.32.05.jpg

There is an unofficial memorial the 5th. May be worth swinging by if you're a car guy. Auto parts stores are "essential", and a few customers may be bringing their cars down that day, about noon. I'm sure it's just coincidence that people will drag out their cars...
 

monkeyswrench

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Been a rather F'd up few weeks. I've been back and forth to Cali a few times, somewhere in there had Thanksgiving and at least one kid sick....and the F'n schools were closed again (because unionized greedy ass fuktards...)

Slow rollin', but rollin' nonetheless.
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First off, me and my infinite wisdom should have waited to install the windshield. Not wanting to get weld spatter or grinding haze on the new plexiglass, it got covered.
2020-12-13 16.54.29.jpg

This is a close up of the driver's side B-pillar cap. As mentioned above, it is welded in place, as well as screwed. The cap itself appears to be made of 18g, but has been cracked and broken. The new backing plates will take the stress, not the sheet metal. Also, the new plate will tie the cap to the cab/seat back. There have been previous repairs on this area over the years. There is still some brazing visible in the above pic.
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This is spot glaze putty stuff over the welds. A little sanding and a little paint, we'll see how it looks in a while. It has to be better than cracked metal and brass.
 
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