2FORCEFULL
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give it a little time and run the jack up a down a few times.... is it parked on dirt???We tried the Marvel Mystery Oil, Steve. Standby for updates
give it a little time and run the jack up a down a few times.... is it parked on dirt???We tried the Marvel Mystery Oil, Steve. Standby for updates
give it a little time and run the jack up a down a few times.... is it parked on dirt???
Parked on gravel
I've seen this quite a few times, that and using the jacks when the ground was too far out of level... people run the jacks till the tires are off the ground in the rear... never never ever do this as you have no park brake and if it shifts,.. the rams won't go back up...Are you using any leveling mats or wood blocks?
Buddy had issues and it was due to ground shifting. Starting using 6x12 wood blocks under each leg and problem was solved.
We are registered to vote in Montana, have Montana DLs and phone #s.
Nice. Just got back this morning from our road trip to Hamilton and then up to Glacier. The massacre:
The struggle is real.
Thanks for the tip, I ran them up and down three times. Its hard packed gravel road base. I cut boards to set them on, but I am not using them at this point. Angie has a video she will post I am sure. My fluid retention system is working well so far. I appreciate the ideas.give it a little time and run the jack up a down a few times.... is it parked on dirt???
I need to remind myself to also dump the airbags before we set the jacks. I don't intend to lift the vehicle with the jacks. The tire guys wanted to lift it that way, I told them no. Even with #ThisDamnRv being beat on before we owned it, I don't imagine the chassis likes being lifted like this. The full wall slide makes a 30 foot hole in the house box, so I would guess this thing will flex a lot.I've seen this quite a few times, that and using the jacks when the ground was too far out of level... people run the jacks till the tires are off the ground in the rear... never never ever do this as you have no park brake and if it shifts,.. the rams won't go back up...
With the exhaust issue and the exhaust brake, probably tied into the variable geometry turbo assemble sticking again.
I agree completely. I just figure you will probably put some miles on a coach like that, and down the road it may resurface as an issue.Yea, we paid Cummins so much, that I feel they need to make this right.
Sounds like you all are working through the issues.
I had one guy tell me his coach came with every option but a "For Sale" sign, LOL.
Would you give the advice that a buyer should get the RV inspected before the purchase or do you think most of the problems would not have been found that way?
The washer/dryer combo works!! Where is the red dancing emoticon?? LOL
Don't matter, I seem to wrinkle them all up anyway.lol. Clothes come out all wrinkly?
lol. Clothes come out all wrinkly?
I'm sure they would. I only put a washcloth in. We purchased a brand new front loader one time that didn't work. I found out AFTER I started a full load, it filled with water and the door locked. Then it stopped, threw a code and never ran again. Bad computer. Don't buy a frigidaire. Anyway, I didn't want to take that risk again, considering we don't have a lot of clothes with us and who knows when we will be able to find a repair place and/or parts with all the supply chain issues.
I am aware of the wrinkle issue. We have an iron and a small countertop board. But sometimes, it's nice to have it in the coach and not have to use the laundromat for essentials. That is one big benefit to staying in a park, I will admit. You don't have to stay and babysit your clothes.
I've heard when the dry cycle is half done, take them out, shake them out, and put them back in. Haven't had the opportunity to experiment yet, as I just did laundry yesterday.the one thing I miss is a washer and dryer.
in the combo try folding your clothes going in and that may help a bit
Spray 303 aerospace protect all over the front end before a trip makes washing the bugs off a breezeNice. Just got back this morning from our road trip to Hamilton and then up to Glacier. The massacre:
View attachment 1047408
I've got an empty spot there with 50 amp power if you want... beer sounds good,... i drink them for breakfastOh, and Steve?? We owe you a beer when we get to Havasu! No more leaks in the jacks! Not a single drop!!!
Your engine speed advice seems spot on. When we moved to Moab Utah, two weeks ago I changed my driving style to maintain 1800-2000 RPMs and adjust speed with the transmission. This worked very well. I plan to get an engine monitor this winter.Sounds like a helluva time so far. I too am a new RV owner as of April. I've got an even older unit than yours, a 2003 Foretravel U320 38' with a tag axle and the Cummins ISM 450. Here's a few things I'll mention based on what I've read on the thread.
Best of luck. They say RV's are a hobby, and I've found mine to be the same. Upgrades and fixing little stuff, especially due to the age of my rig. Currently installing the Garnet SeeLevel tank monitoring system as the original "Javelina" system was DOA when I bought mine. Also had a water leak that was a combination of a failed one-way check valve in the water fill system combined with a leaking hose reel. Always something to work on.
- The stop engine light can light up for many reasons. I've seen it pulling a long grade with my coach when the coolant temp hit 220*F. That's really not that hot, but apparently Cummins thinks it is. I just backed out of the throttle and slowed down about 10mph, dropped a gear and it started cooling off pretty quickly.
- RPM is your friend. Despite what you might think about diesels, RPM = airflow and airflow is cooling. Let's say it takes 350hp to climb this grade. If you do that in 5th gear at 1400rpm, you're putting however much air through the engine that 1400rpm will move. If you do that in 4th at 1800rpm, now you're moving that much more air through the motor while generating the same amount of power (heat). My ISM redlines at 2100rpm. I normally pull the hills between 1700 and 2000rpm. Anything below 1500rpm starts to lug the motor and make more heat.
- If you have an Allison trans (I'm guessing you do), you can manually select the highest allowable gear on the touchpad. Down arrow changes the max gear allowed, which gives you the ability to hold a gear for RPM. The "mode" button is to switch between performance mode and economy mode. Figure out what mode yours starts up in and what mode you switch to when pushing the button. I understand this can be changed in the programming through the touchpad. In the default mode, floor it from a stop and see if it runs out to redline in each gear or not. If it doesn't, you're probably in economy mode, which will shift early and lug the engine more.
- Maybe check out the Silverleaf VMSpc setup. It connects to the data connector on the coach and will send data to a PC so you can monitor all the temps, clear codes, etc. See my post over here about it: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/converting-a-mci-bus-into-an-rv.225330/post-4226455
- House batteries - those Optimas are likely 55Ah or 75Ah rated. Looking at lead acid batteries (including wet, AGM, etc), the RV style batteries are a much higher output. My coach has 3 x 8D batteries with 255Ah EACH. This means I have 765Ah capacity. You don't want to drain these past about 70% capacity to make them live. That's about 12.2V or so. At 12.2, you need to start charging. An auto-generator start circuit can do this when needed, for you. You may already have one or might be able to add one, depending on what inverter is in your RV.
- Monitoring house batteries - in my RV, there are two cigarette lighter plugs on the dash. One is wired to the house batteries and one is wired to the engine batteries. This is really nice since I can monitor each bank independently from there. I bought these little guys which make it easy to keep an eye on DC battery levels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YS7WMQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hot and cold water ? Its 85 degrees out . Did they wash it with ice water ! That really sucks . Sorry to hear . Any chance of using color matched wrap on the front of the motor home to hide the rock chips instead of clear over the chips ?We are getting the wrap put on the front the first week of Dec and we wanted to get it washed and waxed before that. So before we could do that, Jeff wanted to take the clear bra off of the piece below the windshield. There is no clear bra below this piece, which is a bummer because it is chipped all to hell. However, the piece with the bra removed looks brand new now.
View attachment 1067256
The bad news is that when we had the wash and wax done, our windshield cracked in two places from top to bottom. Hence the name #thisdamnrv
One step forward, two steps back. The detail guy's reply was "Welcome to Havasu." This was Winston Detail, BTW. Would not recommend them. I'm aware windshields crack when they are hot and hit with cold water. They are supposed to know also. That's why they are professionals, right? The wash and wax were fine and average price apparently, but I was pretty pissed about the response. A discount next time would have been kind of nice. Lots of other detailers in town to choose from.
We are getting the wrap put on the front the first week of Dec and we wanted to get it washed and waxed before that. So before we could do that, Jeff wanted to take the clear bra off of the piece below the windshield. There is no clear bra below this piece, which is a bummer because it is chipped all to hell. However, the piece with the bra removed looks brand new now.
View attachment 1067256
The bad news is that when we had the wash and wax done, our windshield cracked in two places from top to bottom. Hence the name #thisdamnrv
One step forward, two steps back. The detail guy's reply was "Welcome to Havasu." This was Winston Detail, BTW. Would not recommend them. I'm aware windshields crack when they are hot and hit with cold water. They are supposed to know also. That's why they are professionals, right? The wash and wax were fine and average price apparently, but I was pretty pissed about the response. A discount next time would have been kind of nice. Lots of other detailers in town to choose from.
We are using a color match. The black had a clear on it already that was several years old (13?). It was soft and scratched with a company sticker on it from the guy who owned it first that I couldn't remove. I'd just get pissed every time I saw it, LOL. The wrap company said it would probably show through after the new wrap was put on.Hot and cold water ? Its 85 degrees out . Did they wash it with ice water ! That really sucks . Sorry to hear . Any chance of using color matched wrap on the front of the motor home to hide the rock chips instead of clear over the chips ?
So was Winston. They came here as well. We will use Detail Spec in the spring before we leave to head to Sedona.Your at the Islander - use Detail Spec. - they come to your spot and are Islander approved
So was Winston. They came here as well. We will use Detail Spec in the spring before we leave to head to Sedona.
I've never had a Class A with a giant windshield, but also never wash my truck windows at the river...how do you clean them without risking this?That is crazy an approved vendor does not realize how to protect windshields from breaking when washing in direct sunlight
Avoid it, or not shock the glass by using warmed waterI've never had a Class A with a giant windshield, but also never wash my truck windows at the river...how do you clean them without risking this?