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Tips needed- OSB on garage interior walls

SixD9R

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Hello,
Just planning ahead a little. I'm going to cover the interior walls of my toy garage with OSB and was wondering if anyone has any installation tips? The garage is 30 X 40 exterior dim's with 2 X 6 X 10' high walls stick framing. I already have it wired up and the walls are insulated with R-19 batts.

I'm pretty good at carpentry so this is not a challenging project for me but specifically I'm trying to decide if I should glue it to the walls like drywall and also what type of screws would be best? Drywall screws will rust over time so I'm leaning toward coated deck screws or something similar. Any thoughts?

One last question is, I would like to just leave the OSB bare/ unpainted but I'm also wondering if I should put a clear preservative or sealer on it so it doesn't absorb dirt or moisture over time?
 

wsuwrhr

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First off....lets see the garage, that is exactly the size I want to build.
 

cpdad93

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I did my last one with osb, we hung with gold screws set right flush and painted it white. you could see the ring of the screw but barely. Being interior we butted the seams right together and there seemed to be no expansion problems. Oh and we just barely eased the edge with sand paper. We set it up about 1/2" off of the curb, and trimmed it so it was not touching concrete. If you have a monolithic slab, it may be sloped, so you may have to adjust for that
 

SixD9R

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First off....lets see the garage, that is exactly the size I want to build.
Boom- you guys are brutal lol. Here's a pic of the exterior. Since this pic rain gutters are installed, exterior lighting and receptacles are in. I don't have any good ones of the inside at the moment. Just recently, we drywalled the ceiling so the interior walls are next.
It's 40' wide in the pic and 30' deep. One could make all sorts of arguments that the space would have been better used if it was configured differently. My plan was the right 2 bays would be for the boat and Mustang while the left bay would be the working bay. Note there is some extra space on the left side of the 3rd bay. The garage also has its own 200 amp service completely independent from our house.
I have 4 acres of wooded land but little of it is level and if I would have put the garage anywhere else it would have meant more driveway to build, more fill dirt to level the spot and more trees to rip out so the location and configuration was the best overall fit for my needs.

IMG_1829.JPG
 

SixD9R

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I did my last one with osb, we hung with gold screws set right flush and painted it white. you could see the ring of the screw but barely. Being interior we butted the seams right together and there seemed to be no expansion problems. Oh and we just barely eased the edge with sand paper. We set it up about 1/2" off of the curb, and trimmed it so it was not touching concrete. If you have a monolithic slab, it may be sloped, so you may have to adjust for that
Thanks- here is Pa. most people build with a concrete footer and foundation of either block or poured in place concrete to get below the frost level. My concrete floor is inside the 8" block foundation. The walls are set on top of the foundation. On the top of the block there is a 2X8 pressure treated sill plate and the walls are on top of that. Since the walls are 6" thick but the sill plate is 7.5" I was planning to set the OSB on top of the sill plate since it's the bottom of the wall, is level and provides a nice ledge to start with. Sorry if that's not completely clear. I can run out and take a quick pick if that helps.
 

wsuwrhr

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One word...

Bad Ass.

Boom- you guys are brutal lol. Here's a pic of the exterior. Since this pic rain gutters are installed, exterior lighting and receptacles are in. I don't have any good ones of the inside at the moment. Just recently, we drywalled the ceiling so the interior walls are next.
It's 40' wide in the pic and 30' deep. One could make all sorts of arguments that the space would have been better used if it was configured differently. My plan was the right 2 bays would be for the boat and Mustang while the left bay would be the working bay. Note there is some extra space on the left side of the 3rd bay. The garage also has its own 200 amp service completely independent from our house.
I have 4 acres of wooded land but little of it is level and if I would have put the garage anywhere else it would have meant more driveway to build, more fill dirt to level the spot and more trees to rip out so the location and configuration was the best overall fit for my needs.
 

monkeyswrench

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About a year ago we did my neighbor's shop building with osb. It's a 40x60, metal building and did walls and ceiling. We counter sunk a ton of screws, covered with caulk and filled seams as well. We finished it off with white paint. Depending on moisture in your area though, I would suggest sealing the inside and bottom edge of the lower portion.

Good looking garage!
 

NicPaus

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Use 4x10 sheer panel OSB no glue just gray coated 1 5/8" screws. Use a sealer on bottom of them up 4" each side and edge. Set on sill plate. Screws every 12" . Spray it with the clear sealer once hung. I would leave a 1/8 expansion gap or just use 1/2 reg ply sheer.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Assuming this was permitted, even if not, I would assume the shear is met on the exterior? So I guess my question at that point would be, why OSB on the interior? Any cutting, grinding, sparks, ect, sheetrock would be much more forgiving, not to mention, less likely to catch on fire.. just curious?
 

hallett21

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Why not 1/2 struc 1 and just nail it? Screws would take longer.

Is the idea so that you can mount stuff in the future?


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DLC

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Wow great looking garage! If you’re going to use it as a shop, the plain wood, unpainted, won’t reflect light and will seem darker inside.

I would also go with 4x10 sheets so you can get plate to plate and no middle seam.

Do you have any inside pics?
 

SixD9R

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Use 4x10 sheer panel OSB no glue just gray coated 1 5/8" screws. Use a sealer on bottom of them up 4" each side and edge. Set on sill plate. Screws every 12" . Spray it with the clear sealer once hung. I would leave a 1/8 expansion gap or just use 1/2 reg ply sheer.
Hi sorry for the delay getting back to the thread I started. I’m not sure what you mean by “shear panel” do you mean sheet as in sheet of plywood (or OSB)?
Also I didn’t know 4x10 panels of anything other than drywall are available, can you elaborate?
Thanks for the help!
 

SixD9R

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Assuming this was permitted, even if not, I would assume the shear is met on the exterior? So I guess my question at that point would be, why OSB on the interior? Any cutting, grinding, sparks, ect, sheetrock would be much more forgiving, not to mention, less likely to catch on fire.. just curious?
Yes I don’t need to add anything to the interior walls from a structural perspective, only code requirement is to cover any electrical lines that are lower than 8’ from the floor.
My building permit is actually expired so there will be no more inspections.
One reason why I’m leaning towards OSB is no spackling plus it’s actually cheaper than drywall. A friend of mine has a similar garage also with drywall on the ceiling and OSB on the walls and I actually like the way it looks. He has plenty of LED lights so it’s plenty bright in there. I also have 7 windows so I get some natural light.
As far as sparks hitting the walls go, I think that would probably make a mess out of painted drywall as well?
 

SixD9R

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Why not 1/2 struc 1 and just nail it? Screws would take longer.

Is the idea so that you can mount stuff in the future?


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I’m sorry I’m not sure you mean but 1/2” structural?
I realize that OSB is only marginally better to nail something to so I really don’t plan to fasten anything without going into a stud.
Maybe I’m wrong but I think I can run screws in with my deck and drywall screw gun just as fast as nails? Plus, have a ton of coated rust resistant choices.
 

SixD9R

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Hi guys I’m really sorry for taking so long getting back to this thread, work and personal life have been flat out crazy. Actually I’m on vacation in Florida at the moment. Here’s a few pics of the garage interior. Please excuse the mess, after I got done hanging the ceiling drywall I literally threw everything back inside. Also, it’s going to stay somewhat unorganized until I get the inside walls finished and then I’ll get some more storage racks and finally get this thing in good shape.
 

NicPaus

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Hi sorry for the delay getting back to the thread I started. I’m not sure what you mean by “shear panel” do you mean sheet as in sheet of plywood (or OSB)?
Also I didn’t know 4x10 panels of anything other than drywall are available, can you elaborate?
Thanks for the help!

Yes a 4x10 osb sheet to eliminate a horizontal seam. They are available at any lumber yard or my local Home Depot Carrys them. Most should.
 

SixD9R

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Yes a 4x10 osb sheet to eliminate a horizontal seam. They are available at any lumber yard or my local Home Depot Carrys them. Most should.
Wow I didn’t know that, I will definitely check that out. My original plan was to use 10’ drywall sheets hung vertically to eliminate butt joints so 10’ OSB would be similar.
 

Justfishing

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Hello,
Just planning ahead a little. I'm going to cover the interior walls of my toy garage with OSB and was wondering if anyone has any installation tips? The garage is 30 X 40 exterior dim's with 2 X 6 X 10' high walls stick framing. I already have it wired up and the walls are insulated with R-19 batts.

I'm pretty good at carpentry so this is not a challenging project for me but specifically I'm trying to decide if I should glue it to the walls like drywall and also what type of screws would be best? Drywall screws will rust over time so I'm leaning toward coated deck screws or something similar. Any thoughts?

One last question is, I would like to just leave the OSB bare/ unpainted but I'm also wondering if I should put a clear preservative or sealer on it so it doesn't absorb dirt or moisture over time?
Coated deck screws would be a good option. Drywall screws are brittle and you would likely break a bunch.

What are you doing for air sealing. Taped and mudded drywall is a pretty good air seal. The joints of osb not so much. Air sealing plays a huge roll in how effective insulation performs. It is also has a huge impact on moisture management.

Poly sheeting if detailed can be an air barrier but the problem is it is a vapor barrier. Most times you need a vapor retarder and not a barrier. House wraps are a retarder that lets water vapor through.

The details of not planning can com back to bite you.
 

SixD9R

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Coated deck screws would be a good option. Drywall screws are brittle and you would likely break a bunch.

What are you doing for air sealing. Taped and mudded drywall is a pretty good air seal. The joints of osb not so much. Air sealing plays a huge roll in how effective insulation performs. It is also has a huge impact on moisture management.

Poly sheeting if detailed can be an air barrier but the problem is it is a vapor barrier. Most times you need a vapor retarder and not a barrier. House wraps are a retarder that lets water vapor through.

The details of not planning can com back to bite you.
Yes I’m glad you brought that up because I was thinking about that as well. I really don’t have a good answer, if I can get 10’ sheets of OSB and hang them vertically maybe the joints would be tight enough since they will share a common stud? If hanging horizontally then yea I probably need to put something else up to control moisture. So you are thinking house wrap would be better than plastic sheets?
Thanks!
 

Justfishing

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Go to greenbuildingadvisors.com and ask about it. They will help with your climate zone.
 

DirtyWhiteDog

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You can get 10' plywood as well from a lumber yard. OSB will flake some peices after a while, but easy to repaint any areas that do. Just use painter's caulk, as little as possible, to seal the edges. Clear stain and sealer actually looks pretty cool on OSB.
I might have missed where you are, the IRC has online maps for climate zones. No plastic in warm dry areas.
 

SixD9R

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Thanks again for all the thoughts on this guys I’ll follow up on your suggestions.
Currently on vacation in Florida but the garage and my home is in eastern Pa.
Funny thing, it’s actually hotter in Pa right now than Florida.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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If OSB is what you're going with the 10' sheets vertical would be the best way to go.. OSB has a smooth and a rough side, rough side usually goes out(most of the time rough side has vertical 16" lines and horizontal 24" lines). If it was me, I would do the smooth side out. It wont soak up as much paint and also less likely to flake over time. Jmo..

And you want at least 1/16" - 1/8" gap between each sheet for swelling or else you will get raised seams over time.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Why would you drywall the ceiling and not the walls? Seems your doing most yourself, so if it’s a cost thing, hang the drywall, then later tape and and texture then later paint, with a gloss paint, gloss paint cause mess wipes right off. I redid mine two years ago in gloss and can’t for the life of me dugout why they aren’t all done that way to begin with. Get grease on it? Wipe it with windex! Got finger prints? Wipe with windex!
And sparks against the drywall aren’t half as bad as against plywood.

A drywall garage just always looks finished where a wood garage is always a “when are you going to finish it?” look
 

SixD9R

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All fair points indeed. Still a little undecided I guess. I was originally planning to drywall the whole garage but my buddies place has drywall ceiling and OSB walls and I think it looks good. Some of the comments are making me think about going back to drywall walls.
Thanks!
 
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