Top outboard mounting bolts

[sprintcvx]

Hey church members. I have an older Glastron/Carlson cvx20 sprint. I installed Seastar steering on it a few years ago. I really like the new steering but I have to have the engine almost centered(with in 1/2" either way) or the cylinder will hit the top mount bolts when I lift the engine all the way up to trailer it. Can I turn these bolts around? If so.. Can I reuse these or get new? Is there a torque these should be set at?

 

[ONE-A-DAY]

Will it clear if you cut off the threaded end? And turning them around wold work, i would get new, good quality stainless or grade 8, not worth screwing around with a few bucks considering your engine will fall off if they broke.

 

[DeltaSigBoater]

You should be able to flip the bolts without any issues. However I would check to see what kind of clearances you have on the bracket first... You don't want cause another issue by fixing the current one.

I don't have a clue as to the torque specs. But I do agree with the above: new good quality SS bolts & nuts.

Judging by the 1st picture, the removal might be easier said then done. There's appears to be adhesive or sealant around that washer. It leads me to believe that when the motor was put on, adhesive or sealant was shot through the mounting holes as well in order to keep everything together and watertight.

Grinding it down will probably be the best, cheapest and quickest route.

 

[GETBOATS]

Replace the bolts, nuts and washers, use the factory supplied attaching hardware sold the engine manufacturer.
currently they are in backwards in the pics
use a backing plate if you have room, older boats may be soft inside the transom, so spread out the load
existing bolts look like Johnson/Evinrude
torque them to manufactures specs, Yamaha torque value is 40 ft. Lbs.

DON'T SUBSTITUTE HARDWARE!!

 

[HST4ME]

Get yourself a tube of 5200 and turn them around.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

I'd probably take a cut-off wheel to them first and see what the tolerances are then. Looks like they are about 1/2" longer than necessary.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[138]

ARP makes grade 8+ cant remember but they come in 8 point. They cost a bit but all my outboards have them. Fyi your can order the correct size width in .25 of an inch I think and diffidently turn them around. Buy some aluminum round bar 3"+ bar cut down for big washers or make a fitting plate to even out the weight on the transom.

 

[138]

ARP makes grade 8+ cant remember but they come in 8 point. They cost a bit but all my outboards have them. Fyi your can order the correct size width in .25 of an inch I think and diffidently turn them around. Buy some aluminum round bar 3"+ bar cut down for big washers or make a fitting plate to even out the weight on the transom.

Also 5200 is your enemy and your friend in the long run.

 

[138]

Also 5200 is your enemy and your friend in the long run.

 

[138]

last one that most will never do if you have the room you can double nut all 4/6 of the bolts like I try to do for my outboards.

 

[sprintcvx]

Thank you all for the info. My first thought was to grind/cut them off but the way my boats transom is set up there is very little room to get a grinder or sawzall in there and I figured if the bolts are SS they would be a real bitch to cut off. Someone mentioned they see sealant around the washer and you're correct. I'm fairly certain this engine has never been off this boat, so I was wondering how tough it would be to get the bolts out. I'll give it a try this weekend and report back. New bolts/washers/nuts, tube of 5200 and double nut everything. :thumbsup. Btw the lower mount bolts go from the inside out, that's why I asked the ?. I wasn't sure if they where supposed to be mounted that way or not. I'm a nail bender by trade and defiantly not a mechanic.

 

[HST4ME]

Man some of you guys make mountains out of mole hills lol. That motors been on there for 30 plus years with stock hardware.