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Trailer Fabrication question

Discussion in 'Trailers' started by Ultra912, Nov 30, 2016.

  1. Ultra912

    Ultra912 Well-Known Member

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    My 19' Charger is proving to be a bitch to pull out of the water due to difficulty getting it to align and sit on the bunks correctly. The side of the hull doesn't fit close to fender well sides so the hull moves when pulling out of the water.
    Question: Where can I have a vertical bar with a roller or cushion fabricated on each side to keep the hull located correctly when pulling out of the water so I don't have to hold it in place while the trailer moves forward? IMG_1399.jpg
    IMG_1397.jpg
     
  2. spectra3279

    spectra3279 Vaginamoney broke

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    Try not backing the trailer in so far. I know that's not what you asked but........
     
    AzGeo and Headless hula like this.
  3. Headless hula

    Headless hula Well-Known Member

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    Mine will do the same if i'm too far back in the water. I'll back up till i can't see the tops of the fenders, then pull ahead till I see around 4 inches of the tops. When all of the bunks get wet, the boat slides up easier.
     
  4. Ultra912

    Ultra912 Well-Known Member

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    My cat deck just powers on like railroad tracks but this is a light deep vee with low bunks and I'm not comfortable powering on due to the lack of a bumper stop on the front.
     
  5. Ultra912

    Ultra912 Well-Known Member

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    I'll give that a shot. Never thought about getting the bunks wet then pulling forward. My cat hull sits right up against the fender well carpet which keeps it right in place but there's 6-8 inches between the hull and fenders on this one.
     
  6. Headless hula

    Headless hula Well-Known Member

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    I don't "power on". At all. Here that's not cool, as the concrete ramps very often stop and "powering on" washes a HUGE hole. It's not an acceptable thing in these parts. My boat simply slides on, and stops probably a foot or two from the winch. A few turns, and I'm gone.
     
  7. Melloyellovector

    Melloyellovector Well-Known Member

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    Typically the vertical bars with carpet are spaced same as your trailer fenders. Ones with rollers are very rarely on your type of boat/trailer. Either way those bars are more used for when traveling for keeping the boat from hopping sideways over the fenders. They will not hold it in place while taking out of water anymore than fenders. Plus many guys get confident pulling boat onto trailer with the verticals, it only takes one wrong swipe to gouge the fuk out of your gel coat. By the time your realize it's made bad contact you've got a 3-10ft scratch down the side of boat. If you float it on, back the trailer in to wet the bunks, pull forward a bit more than you do currently and winch it up. If still ends up sideways it's a small enough boat bounce that shit over on bunks once out of the water. Or better yet get a helper to hold the boat while the other pulls you out.:)
     
  8. Ouderkirk

    Ouderkirk Well-Known Member

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    In my experience, I won't put the fenders more than 2" under water, depending on how steep the ramp is. Most places in my neck of the woods prohibit "power loading" and expect you to crank it up with the winch. Mine is a float on type (competitive), and the 2" over the fenders rule has served me well no matter where I go, and with the variety of boats that I've owned over the years.
     
  9. wzuber

    wzuber Well-Known Member

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    Doing as others have mentioned with trailer depth should help significantly. Should you still feel the desire to add the guides they are very simple to fabricate. Its a little difficult to tell exactly how they would need to be placed on the trailer but it appears they would likely mount to the surface of the rear step/deck surface or possibly thru-bolt to the rear cross member near the tail light. For the surface mount a 5"sq., 1/4" thick plate would be sufficient for attachment. The rest will be the same regardless of mount style, that being 2" sq. tube, 3/16" wall thickness (aka 9 gauge), weld cap tube as necessary, grind flush/clean, weld short tabs or thru-bolt thru tube to attach carpeted 2"x6" guide. The gap between hull and carpeted guide can be as little as 1/2" if you like and will mount correctly. They could also be made to be removable too if you would like that option but that is a little more extensive of a process but unreasonable by any means. This is a basic explanation of what should work well for your application. Any decent weld/fab shop should be able to fabricate what you need. Shoot me a pm if you would like me to help you more specifically with your situation.

    lol...oops. just looked back and realized the date of the original post... my bad. Note to self...notice OP date when clicking on unfamiliar posts.. maybe my response can be useful to somebody else some day?
     

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