WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Trailer step diamond plate?

Eliminator21vdrive

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
1,578
Reaction score
3,040
1602715817845.png


Looking for off the self diamond plate tops for these steps from shadow trailers. I can make them but being lazy and laser cut is sweet. And no shadow has none or no clue even though they have picture on home page.
 

wzuber

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,706
Reaction score
9,210
View attachment 932066

Looking for off the self diamond plate tops for these steps from shadow trailers. I can make them but being lazy and laser cut is sweet. And no shadow has none or no clue even though they have picture on home page.
Maybe redneck trailer supplies. Those appear to be the standard stamped steel steps most everyone uses. Maybe also try www.pacifictrailers.com. However, a circular saw w/carbide tipped blade for alum. And a 2'x4'x1/8" thick sheet of d.plate will provide you at least one set if laid out correctly.
 

4Waters

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2016
Messages
30,590
Reaction score
76,134
Maybe redneck trailer supplies. Those appear to be the standard stamped steel steps most everyone uses. Maybe also try www.pacifictrailers.com. However, a circular saw w/carbide tipped blade for alum. And a 2'x4'x1/8" thick sheet of d.plate will provide you at least one set if laid out correctly.
That's how I did mine
 

DarkHorseRacing

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
4,867
Reaction score
9,462
Don't do it. I've seen two Extreme trailers with diamond plate turn into rust monsters under the plate (the whole step) and the diamond plate eventually falls off. Horrible idea. On mine I pulled the diamond plate off, then ground and sanded the trailer steps and re-primered and re-painted. I did not put the diamond plate back.

If you have to, come up with some standoff mounting system that keeps the plate and the step airgapped. Otherwise just gluing the diamond plate to the step is going to trap water and rust out.
 

shunter2005

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2015
Messages
1,582
Reaction score
1,818
Google up diamond plate. I bought some 5 bar pieces for mine from Shapiro Supply in St. Louis. No one was selling cut pieces at the time. You can get two pieces of .063 x 12x24 or 12x30/36. Pretty cheap and light shipping fees. Also, Metal Supermarkets now carries it, as does Industrial Metal Supply. Both places have stores in CA and AZ.
 

Activated

Deplorable
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
7,167
Reaction score
14,549
I might have to look at the Gator Step. I have the polished fenders and I can’t keep them clean...swirl marks are driving me nuts.
 

Rajobigguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
4,638
Reaction score
10,126
You could get creative with Rino hide or similar bed coating also.
 

Justsomeguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
1,114
Reaction score
1,766
Gator step is brilliant. Glad I scrolled through this thread.
 

HubbaHubbaLife

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 6, 2016
Messages
6,556
Reaction score
8,100
Baot Trailer 3.jpg
Baot Trailer 5.jpg


I dunno... seems like mine just rusted everywhere else but thought these pics might add to conversation....
 

lbhsbz

Putting on the brakes
Joined
Jan 11, 2010
Messages
11,804
Reaction score
28,996
You can likely avoid the rust issue by glueing them down using a bodywork adhesive like 3M panelbond
 

02HoWaRd26

DCBroke
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
11,798
Reaction score
27,900
I’ve got a set of the top pads for tandem axle trailer.
I might have to look at the Gator Step. I have the polished fenders and I can’t keep them clean...swirl marks are driving me nuts.


Idk if you’ve seen the all white Nordic 34 RD posted at Saleen a few months back, but that was a competitive trailer and he hated the yellow. No one could get him in quick enough so that’s exactly what he did, and it looks bad ass
You could get creative with Rino hide or similar bed coating also.
 

Rajobigguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
4,638
Reaction score
10,126
When I get around to cleaning up my trailer, it’s going to get bedliner on the fender tops and all step points. It’s safe , attractive and durable as an old army boot.
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,397
Reaction score
151,474
When I get around to cleaning up my trailer, it’s going to get bedliner on the fender tops and all step points. It’s safe , attractive and durable as an old army boot.

I never like the looks of it which is why I recommended something else, but some people like it.
Honestly the gator step on the tops of the fenders is 50/50 for me.. I usually like those clean
 

Eliminator21vdrive

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
1,578
Reaction score
3,040
I am building ladders on the old man guides so all of this is for looks, polished stainless fenders trailer will be silver metallic with front section carpeted navy blue and navy bunk carpet.
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,397
Reaction score
151,474
I am building ladders on the old man guides so all of this is for looks, polished stainless fenders trailer will be silver metallic with front section carpeted navy blue and navy bunk carpet.

you should seek Gatorstep.. flat surfaces covered in your colors with designs in it.. and it’s not hot and practically indestructible
 

Singleton

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2008
Messages
18,211
Reaction score
23,628
One of the better trailer upgrades I did
 

Attachments

  • ED335576-2175-40D2-85B3-9EE671C9ECC5.jpeg
    ED335576-2175-40D2-85B3-9EE671C9ECC5.jpeg
    104.9 KB · Views: 74
  • 8F0D8FBD-E9AF-4A89-A570-D3326358CDBD.jpeg
    8F0D8FBD-E9AF-4A89-A570-D3326358CDBD.jpeg
    107.9 KB · Views: 78

DarkHorseRacing

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
4,867
Reaction score
9,462
I was thinking of Line-X Body Armor for the next trailer. Might help keep all the rock chips from messing up the paint in the front. I'd just do the body of the trailer with it. I'm debating on doing the fenders or letting them be stainless. I don't really step on mine because the boat overhangs the steps when its on the trailer. But the Gator Step is a good idea for some of the common step areas. I've slipped off enough wet metal trailers in the past.

Since this is a trailer thread, shout out to Ultimate Bunk Boards. Far better than carpet.
 

wzuber

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,706
Reaction score
9,210
I am building ladders on the old man guides so all of this is for looks, polished stainless fenders trailer will be silver metallic with front section carpeted navy blue and navy bunk carpet.
Sounds like a nice build to me. I think either way you go will look great with the gator step being a bit more modern. I hope you'll share pix when done.
 

Riverhound

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2007
Messages
246
Reaction score
522
I pulled the diamond plate and added Gator Step. No more worries about rust or getting the hot foot when stepping on the trailer with bare feet.

609FF139-F750-4E9E-B115-6E7D32591245_1_105_c.jpeg
 

DarkHorseRacing

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
4,867
Reaction score
9,462
View attachment 932295 View attachment 932296

I dunno... seems like mine just rusted everywhere else but thought these pics might add to conversation....

You probably should have a galvanized trailer for your next one. You dunking that in salt?

The good news is Shadow will galvanize and powdercoat a trailer, so even if you rock chip it through the powdercoat, the underlying galvanize should keep it from rusting.
 

HubbaHubbaLife

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 6, 2016
Messages
6,556
Reaction score
8,100
You probably should have a galvanized trailer for your next one. You dunking that in salt?

The good news is Shadow will galvanize and powdercoat a trailer, so even if you rock chip it through the powdercoat, the underlying galvanize should keep it from rusting.
Oh yeah, all salt here.... I use a launch service so this poor thing got ate up. I put everyone onboard and they tow us 200' from storage to ramp.... launch guy simply unclips and gently slides us into water and off we go.... its the easiest launching ever and spoils you for life.... but the trailer gets taken back to storage and sits with salt on it till I return to flush engine and wash everything down and that might be a day or two if I go to Catalina. So these pics simply show the results of salt over 5 years on a tube trailer built in AZ for fresh water use only.
 

ToMorrow44

27 Advantage TCM 800efi
Joined
Sep 2, 2008
Messages
2,740
Reaction score
2,837
Oh yeah, all salt here.... I use a launch service so this poor thing got ate up. I put everyone onboard and they tow us 200' from storage to ramp.... launch guy simply unclips and gently slides us into water and off we go.... its the easiest launching ever and spoils you for life.... but the trailer gets taken back to storage and sits with salt on it till I return to flush engine and wash everything down and that might be a day or two if I go to Catalina. So these pics simply show the results of salt over 5 years on a tube trailer built in AZ for fresh water use only.
Damn I surprised you got 5 years out it..
 

RiverDave

In it to win it
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
123,397
Reaction score
151,474
You probably should have a galvanized trailer for your next one. You dunking that in salt?

The good news is Shadow will galvanize and powdercoat a trailer, so even if you rock chip it through the powdercoat, the underlying galvanize should keep it from rusting.

you don’t want a powder coated trailer.. they tend to fade faster and are difficult to repair
 

DarkHorseRacing

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
4,867
Reaction score
9,462
Well if fade is an issue, can't you just clear coat the powder with a UV blocking layer? I thought fading PC was a thing of the past for most colors. They had gotten better about that. I did hear that if you do metallic you definately have to clear it to keep the metals in the PC from oxidizing.
 

wzuber

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,706
Reaction score
9,210
you don’t want a powder coated trailer.. they tend to fade faster and are difficult to repair
Only truth to your statement regarding fading is if epoxy is used for a top coat outdoors in sunlight etc. Epoxy is a good primer or base coat or used indoors out of direct sunlight. Zinc rich epoxy @ 2-4 mills min thickness is a great primer for steel, alum. Etc.
ALL... paints will fade in time.
Urethane, polyurethane, polyester, polyester TGIC all have excellent fade resistance. They also have superior impact resistance as compared to 2 component liquid paints unless they are designed specifically for just that. Urethane/polyU's will lay down smoothest when correctly applied and cured. As for P.C. touch up it is the same process but a liquid paint must be employed. Color matching is easy and same process as any other paint match. P.C. sands/feathers better than most due to its hardness. It's best to sandblast to a " white blast" condition to benefit completely from the impact resistance qualities of P.C. paint system.
 

Eliminator21vdrive

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
1,578
Reaction score
3,040
Cost just to do fenders? Hopefully way less than $2000 for polished stainless, that’s what Adrenaline wants to put them on my new trailer.
I am not a high roller! I found some budget stainless fenders for $300.00 so profile is not perfect but............... I will post final pics in this "OL" Barge thread.
 

wzuber

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,706
Reaction score
9,210
Well if fade is an issue, can't you just clear coat the powder with a UV blocking layer? I thought fading PC was a thing of the past for most colors. They had gotten better about that. I did hear that if you do metallic you definately have to clear it to keep the metals in the PC from oxidizing.
You can clear over colors/layers however a couple inner coat adhesion becomes an issue. The clear coat has to be applied while the base coat is still hot and not quite cured to get the best chemical adhesion. Paint build thickness can become another potential issue and lose some impact resistance and be prone to chipping more easily. Build thickness provides a greater resistance to potential rust development but at a POTENTIAL trade off. Welding all joints completely wherever possible and coating all assemblies separately to provide a complete wrap of paint protection goes a long way to creating the best paint finish to prevent rust development.
 

02HoWaRd26

DCBroke
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
11,798
Reaction score
27,900
Cost just to do fenders? Hopefully way less than $2000 for polished stainless, that’s what Adrenaline wants to put them on my new trailer.
I have a set for 100$ lol. But i think was like 160) for the set. Total for the 4 steps 2 fenders and the little pads up the ladder was like 330$ priced by square inch.
 
Top