Water Heater-Yes Another Thread

[Big B Hova]

When the thing ruptures and by the time you find a wrench to shut off the valve at the street, run out to the meter, get the lid off, and wrestle the valve closed you'll probably come to the conclusion it was a bad idea not to put a shutoff valve on the cold water line. That ball valve on the hot water side ain't gonna do anything when there's water going everywhere.



I have eight ball and two check valves on my water heater... Four of the valves are to isolate the check valves so I can clean or repair them without draining the system.

I installed a return line from the farthest fixture and put a small circulator pump on it. A time clock shuts off the pump at night. It's really nice to have instant hot water when turning on the shower.

I sense a little OCD here.... look how well insulated and neat everything is!

 

[Ibeplumbing]

View attachment 458091
No isolation. Just let air out through the faucets.

It is set up correctly with ball on cold inlet

 

[rrrr]

It is set up correctly with ball on cold inlet

It looks like it's on the hot side because of the insulation. But I'm prolly wrong again.

Big B, I am a little OCD when it comes to doing household projects. We remodeled the entire house with just me, my wife, and two laborers. It took 2 1/2 years.

How many people do you know with an attic that looks like this?

.

 

[Big B Hova]

It looks like it's on the hot side because of the insulation. But I'm prolly wrong again.

Big B, I am a little OCD when it comes to doing household projects. We remodeled the entire house with just me, my wife, and two laborers. It took 2 1/2 years.

How many people do you know with an attic that looks like this?

.

That is pretty bad ass. My attic is so small, and im not so small. My roof line is low so my attic is a pain in the ass to crawl around in. I want to insulate both hot and cold becauw the cold water during summer gets burning hot at first sitting in the attic.

 

[TLAW719]

It looks like it's on the hot side because of the insulation. But I'm prolly wrong again.

Big B, I am a little OCD when it comes to doing household projects. We remodeled the entire house with just me, my wife, and two laborers. It took 2 1/2 years.

How many people do you know with an attic that looks like this?

.

This is the first time I've seen a water heater in the Attic

 

[VoodooMedMan]

It is set up correctly with ball on cold inlet

Correct. That's just leftover insulation from the new home build. Both sides had insulation. He cut the copper and installed flex lines.

And I don't have to find a wrench and run to the street either. Ball valve main right under my hose bib which is right out the side garage door next to the heater and maybe 10 feet to the right.

 

[rrrr]

Correct. That's just leftover insulation from the new home build. Both sides had insulation. He cut the copper and installed flex lines.

And I don't have to find a wrench and run to the street either. Ball valve main right under my hose bib which is right out the side garage door next to the heater and maybe 10 feet to the right.

Gotcha. I was just joking around anyway.

That's a lot better than my situation. The meter is in a below ground box and the cover requires a special key that goes into a slot and turns a spring loaded latch. The meter is up against one side of the box and it's really difficult to get a wrench on it.

 

[VoodooMedMan]

Gotcha. I was just joking around anyway.

That's a lot better than my situation. The meter is in a below ground box and the cover requires a special key that goes into a slot and turns a spring loaded latch. The meter is up against one side of the box and it's really difficult to get a wrench on it.

Yeah meters are at the street but just a concrete box. Lift the little cover. Easy Peasy. Just no need to though unless the main line between meter and house gets busted. Ball valve right at the house.

Guess that's why it's so expensive here.

 

[j-bone]

So, what causes these things all at the same time. My development is 13 yrs old and there have been dozens spring leaks in the last year. I hear there are zincs that are designed to last a certain time. Once the zinc is gone the corrosion starts on the heater. Is this true? Engineered obsolescence at its best. If this is true, there should be a way to replace the zincs.

 

[j-bone]

So, what causes these things all at the same time. My development is 13 yrs old and there have been dozens spring leaks in the last year. I hear there are zincs that are designed to last a certain time. Once the zinc is gone the corrosion starts on the heater. Is this true? Engineered obsolescence at its best. If this is true, there should be a way to replace the zincs.

To leak

 

[NicPaus]

So, what causes these things all at the same time. My development is 13 yrs old and there have been dozens spring leaks in the last year. I hear there are zincs that are designed to last a certain time. Once the zinc is gone the corrosion starts on the heater. Is this true? Engineered obsolescence at its best. If this is true, there should be a way to replace the zincs.

You can replace the anode rod.

 

[j-bone]

Is that what wears out causing the heater to corrode and leak.

 

[NicPaus]

Is that what wears out causing the heater to corrode and leak.

It is the zinc rod used to keep other parts from corroding first, I know they change them out at the river or remove them to keep the water heater from stinking.

 

[Ibeplumbing]

If you have a Softener you should change the anode rod every 3 years, or change it to aluminum anode rod and it will last longer. Without a softener the anode will last 5-10 years depending on where you live. Bradford white and AO smith is on the hot nipple and rheem, ruud, ge, most others are a hex head under a plastic cap on top. If it's that style you really need an impact gun to pull and put back easily. You can buy link style anodes from plumbing supply stores. They are the replacement kind that are easy to install. Usually $50 or less for a new rod. They need to be flushed yearly at minimum to make last longer. The standard valves are garbage. Installing a 3/4 nipple and threaded ball valve in place will flush them out great. It's an easy upgrade. If the pressure is over 80 you are going to cut its life down a lot.

 

[riverroyal]

That's why they leak. It is essentially a pressure vessel with flowing water. The typical city water is real harsh, it just eats metal. The tank walls are thin, the seams have just enough automated weld to stop a leak. Over 10 years the corrosion just wins
Plus NO one drains their heaters. This helps remove the deposits. You should actually flush the tank not just drain it. But nobody does this

If you have soft water, do a flush every 6 months and don't over pressurized your house you can get more life out of it. But then the flame element or gas valve will be bad long before, so screw it
Just assume it will need to be replaced every 7 years or every flood.

A water heater in the attic? Recipe for disaster.

 

[VoodooMedMan]

That's why they leak. It is essentially a pressure vessel with flowing water. The typical city water is real harsh, it just eats metal. The tank walls are thin, the seams have just enough automated weld to stop a leak. Over 10 years the corrosion just wins
Plus NO one drains their heaters. This helps remove the deposits. You should actually flush the tank not just drain it. But nobody does this

If you have soft water, do a flush every 6 months and don't over pressurized your house you can get more life out of it. But then the flame element or gas valve will be bad long before, so screw it
Just assume it will need to be replaced every 7 years or every flood.

A water heater in the attic? Recipe for disaster.

So does Bradford have this aluminum anode? The unit replaced was the original and was a Rheem installed in 05. I put in a water softener when I bought the house. So we made it 10 years. House in Havasu same thing. Had a softener from the get go. Brand new house we bought in 04 and sold in 15 so 11 years. Was fine but seems when we were moving out that weekend that I had to reset it a couple times so I'm sure the new owners have replaced by now.

I'd like to make it past 3 years but just leaving them alone even with a softener got me 10 + years.

 

[sergeantmike]

If you have a Softener you should change the anode rod every 3 years, or change it to aluminum anode rod and it will last longer. Without a softener the anode will last 5-10 years depending on where you live. Bradford white and AO smith is on the hot nipple and rheem, ruud, ge, most others are a hex head under a plastic cap on top. If it's that style you really need an impact gun to pull and put back easily. You can buy link style anodes from plumbing supply stores. They are the replacement kind that are easy to install. Usually $50 or less for a new rod. They need to be flushed yearly at minimum to make last longer. The standard valves are garbage. Installing a 3/4 nipple and threaded ball valve in place will flush them out great. It's an easy upgrade. If the pressure is over 80 you are going to cut its life down a lot.

When can you come out to Havasu and flush out a bunch of HWH's and change anodes? Figure you could do what 4 to 6 a day? Long weekend?

 

[Flying_Lavey]

It looks like it's on the hot side because of the insulation. But I'm prolly wrong again.

Big B, I am a little OCD when it comes to doing household projects. We remodeled the entire house with just me, my wife, and two laborers. It took 2 1/2 years.

How many people do you know with an attic that looks like this?

.

Looks like the HVAC is hard piped.... $$$$

 

[rrrr]

Yep, I removed all of the flex runs and installed hard pipe with 2" blanket wrap. The house had a 5 ton A/C with a gas furnace when we bought it. I removed that system and installed 5 and 2 ton heat pumps. The 2 ton serves the master bedroom and bath, and another bedroom we use as a media room.

We can set the tstat for the 2 ton at 72, and the rest of the house at 78. The kWH usage is lower that way.

I also blew in 18" of insulation in the attic, and when we stripped all of the interior walls to rework the electrical and replace the drywall the interior walls were insulated.

We installed 1 3/4" solid core doors in the hallways, master bedroom, and laundry room. That made the house really quiet.

All this cost a lot, but we had a 15 year mortgage. Now the house is paid off and built exactly how we wanted it.

 

[mjc]

So, what causes these things all at the same time. My development is 13 yrs old and there have been dozens spring leaks in the last year. I hear there are zincs that are designed to last a certain time. Once the zinc is gone the corrosion starts on the heater. Is this true? Engineered obsolescence at its best. If this is true, there should be a way to replace the zincs.

I just replaced mine also. I wrote the date to replace the anode in sharpe so hopefully will remember to change it.

 

[sergeantmike]

Why not go tankless when you need to swap one? Never had one and would like the =/- on tank vs. tankless:thumbsup:thumbsdown

 

[Deja_Vu]

My water heater is a Rheem 50 gal unit thats 18 years old.

I've been watching it like a hawk for the last 2 years waiting for any signs of a drip, but it keeps holding strong. :thumbsup

 

[RaceTec]

Mine is going to need to be replaced soon, but I am thinking of going tankless to save room in the garage... Any of you guys have experience with them? Good - Bad?

 

[NicPaus]

Tankless do not work when the power is out. They are also like a computer inside. $200 a hour to work on them. Most plumbers can install but not diagnose and fix.

 

[Ibeplumbing]

When can you come out to Havasu and flush out a bunch of HWH's and change anodes? Figure you could do what 4 to 6 a day? Long weekend?

I could do that. It would probably have to be in February and I'd plan it ahead. I have to work every third weekend so I'd have to schedule a few a day for both days to do it. I wouldn't do it through the company I work for. I couldn't anyways, but I could definitely come out to do that

 

[VoodooMedMan]

Water is scalding hot. Had to turn it down already. Still really hot. No need for instant heaters. Just get one of these and turn it up. You'll only need a little to mix with the cold for some great heat. Can have an NFL team take a shower before the hot water runs out.

 

[Big B Hova]

Water is scalding hot. Had to turn it down already. Still really hot. No need for instant heaters. Just get one of these and turn it up. You'll only need a little to mix with the cold for some great heat. Can have an NFL team take a shower before the hot water runs out.

Which one you go with?

 

[spectracular]

Tankless do not work when the power is out. They are also like a computer inside. $200 a hour to work on them. Most plumbers can install but not diagnose and fix.

I put a tankless in about 7 years ago. We love it. We have high water pressure, so we can run 2 showers full tilt plus kitchen sink and laundry and never have an issue.

Our tankless is about 100' from the main. This meant that the entire gas line in the attic had to be upgraded. Not expensive, but a pain. On top of that, we had to run expensive ss exhaust, and run electric to the unit. Newer models do not require the expensive ss exhaust.

 

[VoodooMedMan]

Which one you go with?

Bradford White. That's why I used him. Same unit as at Fergusons and installed for a minimal charge.

 

[Big B Hova]

Bradford White. That's why I used him. Same unit as at Fergusons and installed for a minimal charge.

Nice. Ya my bradford white is kicking ass too. Super hot water and plenty of it

 

[Chipster27]

I just replaced my water heater on thursday. Bought a 50 gal from Ferguson. $580 out the door for a Bradford White water heater. My plumber said they are the best for your money. The one I replaced was a 12 year old Bradford white. Same thing, rusted out the bottom.

Yea...best for the money. My Bradford-White just shit the bed. Pilot assy and gas valve went south. Oh and the warranty expired 4 months ago. I'll never spend the money on a quality one again. If the life expectancy is 6-8 years I'll just buy a disposable water heater like they sell at Home Depot/Lowes. Planned obsolescence rather than a quality purchase.

 

[NicPaus]

If the life expectancy is 6-8 years I'll just buy a disposable water heater like they sell at Home Depot/Lowes. Planned obsolescence rather than a quality purchase.[/QUOTE]

The Bradford White from the supply house is about the same as hd or lowes. Much better than a junk Whirlpool from Lowes. Rheem from HD can be hit or miss. I like the American water heaters they sell at Hirsch.

 

[Mr. C]

Well shit has gone south all at once again. Dryer died Sunday get the new one today. The oven decided it wanted to try and catch fire Monday night and now on to today's water heater question. It's leaking or spraying out the top heat vent it seems. I have drained it a little a messed with the pressure valve and it stopped leaking for a few hours. If the pressure valve is bad could it possible be leaking into the heat vent or would it only leak out and down the pressure valve. Thanks in advance

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Well shit View attachment 535101 View attachment 535102 has gone south all at once again. Dryer died Sunday get the new one today. The oven decided it wanted to try and catch fire Monday night and now on to today's water heater question. It's leaking or spraying out the top heat vent it seems. I have drained it a little a messed with the pressure valve and it stopped leaking for a few hours. If the pressure valve is bad could it possible be leaking into the heat vent or would it only leak out and down the pressure valve. Thanks in advance

I'd you suspect your TPR Valve is bad.... REPLACE IT NOW!! that's what keeps those from becoming rockets if they get too hot or if there is a weak spot in the vessel. If it is truly leaking from the tank and not from a fitting or a line above the tank, replace the water heater.

 

[Mr. C]

Got lucky for now. Just replaced the nipple for the line in side to the tank. And then of course the pilot sensor went south. But it's all working and not leaking for now. The topper was going out to heat the jacuzzi and the fn pool heater isn't working. I mean seriously I must of really wronged some people cause karma is coming at me right now. FYI. I have the pressure valve on stand by. Lol.

 

[500bbc]

So as I'm reading this yesterday the wife pops in and says no hot water.

I figure EQ valve was bumped somehow but we have heat so I go outside to try and ignite it, no go.
It's a GE purchased at HD. I wait for plumbing supplies to open and I'm informed it's not made by GE double check the fine print on the tank and it's a Rheem.
Talk to Rheem, it's under warranty and they will send parts but they are minimum 24 hours for delivery if lucky so I call my plumber and he gives the name of a parts house, I call and they have the part the woman at Rheem recommends replacing. I take care of business for the day, pick up the part late afternoon and "rush" home in traffic to get it installed before it's dark. Turns out to be one of those pain in the ass multiple tool including mixed in metric shit jobs. Six different wrench/socket sizes, scraper, screw drivers etc. Gets dark and I have to finish up with my personal LED headlight (that deal is great).

Will never buy GE again, all the plumbing supplies stock AO and Bradford White parts.

Wifey happy when she got home.