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Water pressure regulators/dumps

Blackmagic94

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Do I need one for my jet botë? Where to purchase.

blower is finally getting installed
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scottchbrite

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This^^^^ or I’ve seen some people adapt a residential water regulator too, but it looks like shit.
 

Bigbore500r

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Hit up @jetboatperformance he knows how to set it up right and has a pressure relief setup he stocks / builds that can be plumbed in proper. Gate valves restrict flow, what you want to do is regulate pressure. Not real expensive either.
 

jetboatperformance

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Water goes thru a jet like shit thru a goose with no "dwell time" and the true temp to monitor is the oil temp on jet boats , the water should free flow from the jet thru the engine with maybe a lever ball valve at the jet if desired ( the lever valve is also a good "fail safe" if a line ever comes off the engine )
 

mash on it

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Like Tom said, and to add, about 50° warmer than the lake/river water.

Dan'l
 

GRADS

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Just go to Home Depot and go to the garden section and get an irrigation gate valve....thats how most jet boaters do it.😂
 

Bigbore500r

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Water goes thru a jet like shit thru a goose with no "dwell time" and the true temp to monitor is the oil temp on jet boats , the water should free flow from the jet thru the engine with maybe a lever ball valve at the jet if desired ( the lever valve is also a good "fail safe" if a line ever comes off the engine )
What about the pressure relief setup? You did a LS swap mount kit and pump rebuild for a buddies boat, and put together a relief valve assembly that would divert excess water thru a dump port above a certian PSI. This was used with wet jacketed exhaust manifolds with elbows and tails exiting thru transom
 

mash on it

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What about the pressure relief setup? You did a LS swap mount kit and pump rebuild for a buddies boat, and put together a relief valve assembly that would divert excess water thru a dump port above a certian PSI. This was used with wet jacketed exhaust manifolds with elbows and tails exiting thru transom

Just the tiniest grain of sand can upset a pressure regulator. And the 500hp+ water pump becomes useless.
I was amazed at the amount of sand a 454 gets in the water jackets in a season. All the river at Bullhead city and lake Mohave.

Grads idea is actually right for once. (Did I just say that?)

Dan'l
 

Carlson-jet

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Temp gauge and 1/2" ball valve plumbed up to the driver seat and back to the motor. Seemed to work well for many guys I know running Big HP. I Just use a ball valve and monitor the temp gauge.
 

lbhsbz

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I've always ran a -08 line into the engine and a -10 out of the engine. Hard to build pressure ever if the over board line is larger than the inlet line.

Exactly, because math. Make the dumps bigger than the inlets and all is well.
 

HALLETT BOY

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What about actually running a raw water pump from the jet pump to the engine ? The raw water pump would regulate the flow .
 

Bigbore500r

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Just the tiniest grain of sand can upset a pressure regulator. And the 500hp+ water pump becomes useless.
I was amazed at the amount of sand a 454 gets in the water jackets in a season. All the river at Bullhead city and lake Mohave.

Grads idea is actually right for once. (Did I just say that?)

Dan'l
Just the tiniest grain of sand can upset a pressure regulator. And the 500hp+ water pump becomes useless.
I was amazed at the amount of sand a 454 gets in the water jackets in a season. All the river at Bullhead city and lake Mohave.

Grads idea is actually right for once. (Did I just say that?)

Dan'l
I’ll wait for @jetboatperformance to respond. They recommended, sold and built the pressure regulator setup that for my friends jet. At one time that was his preferred method
 

Blackmagic94

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I don’t have a t stat. I have the inlet and outlet coming into the oem water pump holes with no mechanical water pump.

When we pulled the intake on the old setup the intake gasket was starting to push water and coolant together. So I think the new drive probably upped the pressure
 

Bigbore500r

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I don’t have a t stat. I have the inlet and outlet coming into the oem water pump holes with no mechanical water pump.

When we pulled the intake on the old setup the intake gasket was starting to push water and coolant together. So I think the new drive probably upped the pressure
That was the reasoning behind the pressure regulator. Interested to see what Tom says
 

Blackmagic94

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And new problem. Carb stacks don’t clear. And linkage hits blower dual carb adapter
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wzuber

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Diagrams please or pics
It's very simple/basic..plumb from the lowest entry point in the eng. Typically the water pump ports @ the timing cover area (unless you want to get fancy and go into the expansion plug holes @ the back/side of the block and out the thermostat housing ) up out the highest exit point (thermostat hsg) typically 1 exit line out to the headers/exhaust and the other out the transome or my personal preference out the side of the hull next to the drivers seat where i can feel it anytime i want to discerne if I need to back off the loud pedal or keep floggin it till it screams uncle. Haha
I only use ball valves, 1 on entry and exit to control the flow to insure complete block filling..no hot spots in the heads etc. from lack of water flow. The handle on the ball valve shows you what your ball/flow position is at a glance. Gate valves suck, get stuck easily and you have no idea if the opening has been changed from your normal/preferred setting position. I like this honeywell pressure reg. valve. Has a dial to set the pressure to what you want, very simple & reliable once you balance your system to your preferred oper. Temps and how hard you run your boat.
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Blackmagic94

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Yeah gonna run spacers for that.

Who sells fiberglass dragster scoops with dual carb trays. I’m only finding single trays
 

wzuber

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Yeah gonna run spacers for that.

Who sells fiberglass dragster scoops with dual carb trays. I’m only finding single trays

1)Cut that useless portion off.
2) you buy a blank tray and cut your own holes as the carb. centers vary so much on diff. intakes.
3) are you running an oil cooler?
 

wzuber

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No oil cooler
it would be a real good idea. with the egt's of the blower, elevated rpms and eng. loads and all the oil will get pretty hot especially if you run very hard for longer durations. A sandwich adapter at the oil filter boss to a cooler is simple and cheap insurance. Your basic 2" x 12" cooler from eddie marine or other favorite parts supplier is sufficient. As has been mentioned already, monitoring your oil temps is as or more important (and more accurate) than water temps. Do you have a bilge area bulkhead forward of the eng/crank pully?
 

wzuber

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strike eddie marine, they got nothing. Look up cp performance, they have a 3" x 16" that has h.p. ratings in your neighborhood.
 

wzuber

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Another option would be a block mounted Dan Olsen oil cooler if your using motor plates and not a 3 pt. mount system.
welp...scratch that, I just looked at your 1st. post pic. and see your still running a low grade 3 pt. mount...good luck with that. You've exceeded the power limits of that system. I hope it doesn't bite you or a passenger, It can be deadly.
 

motormonkey

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I've run the -08 to -10 dump also.

On the carbs cut linkage on bottom or short spacers. You can try to find a inline adapter as it might be cheaper if you don't have the fuel lines and sideways linkage yet
 

wzuber

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I've run the -08 to -10 dump also.

On the carbs cut linkage on bottom or short spacers. You can try to find a inline adapter as it might be cheaper if you don't have the fuel lines and sideways linkage yet
In line adapter such as a cast kuhl adapter?
 

was thatguy

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There is more than one way to skin this cat. I’ll show you how I do it. It works for me, others opinions may vary, and all the theories I’ve seen posted have merit in one way or another.
After nearly sinking my first jet boat many years ago I realized that the water system is primarily THE most overlooked system of most OT header jet boats.
That sort of dictates a lot of my water system, valve placements, hardlines etc.
My goals are engine temp, pressure regulation, header water control, and don’t spring any leaks...!
So here we go. My transom plate is currently off after impeller and ring inspection after inadvertently dredging turtle cove the other day! Lol.
I hardline off the pump to my water psi regulator/ dump. It’s set at 12 lb.+- and is basically a pop off that dumps overboard.
Some guys have told me that the pressure dump should be on the exit side to hold water psi, but that scares me and I won’t do it.
The hardline then runs along the stringer forward to a point near the front of the engine.
It tees off there, #10 braided hose to the engine block inlet yoke, #6 braided header water line to the helm where it goes through a 4 position header valve control, then #6 braided back to the Basset spring, T, and braided line to the header hard lines. I forget what size pills I have in the header fittings.
This allows me to manually control header water even before the Basset spring.
Generally I idle around with the lever at the off position, and cruise with it at the 1/4 or 1/2 position. As soon as I come off throttle I kill that shit. If your engine is cammed primarily for that blower set up, with water inversion (centerline) a secondary concern, I HIGHLY recommend a means to manually shut off the headers.
My water exit at the T housing has the Grads recommended Home Depot gate valve.
This is how I control the flow and engine temp. I NEVER restrict water in, only water out. This is also why I run my 12 lb pop off/ dump at the pump. It’s a balance. I can restrict the flow out without worry of pushing gaskets.

So when I got this done initially I drove the boat with the exit wide open. As was expected I built no engine heat. So I started shutting the T housing gate valve about a turn at a time until I could get the engine to run at a consistent heat over 150 or so.
Then zip tied the handle so it won’t move
You’ll see that my exit is rubber hose but that’s being changed as soon as my roll of hose shows up from Summit!

So I have NO rubber hose or clamps on the pressure side of any component to sink the boat with, I have a valve at virtually every point for shutting in in case of emergency. (Remember, if that blower coughs and you kick a head gasket, cylinder, or compromise your block water jacket or any part of the water conduit it is a DIRECT line in from the lake...)

I can regulate water flow through the engine and effectively regulate temp without fear of pushing gasket, and I can control header water from my seat and prevent off throttle water inversion.
ALL of these things have happened to me before in previous boats. Hydraulic’d a corner off of a vintage 454 block due to inversion, almost sank it, blew a rubber hose off at the pump once, almost sank it, etc etc.

Now...what are you going to about a rail kit??
Josh and Tom (JBP) made mine, they also did the pump intake reset, and plate and shoe mods.



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