WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

WATTS = VOLTS X AMPS ????

2FORCEFULL

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here's the trailer so far... adding 300watt 24v solar today... bought just the shell and added windows, cabinetts , roof vents and lights....
bought the cabinetts off ebay, then cut them to fit the v nose...fits 2 rzr xp1000's

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mjc

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your deal is way different than mine...I go from vegas…. to bullhead, bout 100 miles... when I get there, I have a brand new house that has a garage with 50 amp power... so if I don't wanna go in the house, I can stay out in the van with ac on shore power..next, I go to havasu… there I have a house with an rv pad.. I have the house rented out... but not the rv pad, i'm building a new house next door to there, in fact, they are framing it while I type this.. when I go there to check on the build... I can plug the van in for a short stay.... or just go there in the big rv with 2 ac's...I have no intentions of getting into "it's a van life" and try'n to live in a match box,.. intentions are to be able to bring food from home...stop where ever I want and have lunch or dinner... take a nap, or sleep over nite...I added the micro wave as it was only 59 bucks, and it makes the build more complete.. yester day I ran it a couple minutes off the inverter..didn't seem to affect anything... but, probley never get used much... but there if needed..the bed is the big plus... almost king size, and I can sleep there with out dropping the table...or drop the table if my wife is with me and need more room..but.. we both have plenty of room with the table up,... the mother in law pole in the middle keeps everyone on their own side
Ain't nobody framing over there. wood piles but that is it.
 

mjc

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Flying_Lavey

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How about one of these for ac ?
I'm quiet a bit suspect of their claimed BTU/Hr rating. I have a sneaking suspicion that they are stating the power consumption rating and not the cooling rating (there's quiet a bit of energy loss in the compression of the refrigerant, hence why the condenser coils are a good bit larger than the evaporator coils).

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

rush1

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I'm quiet a bit suspect of their claimed BTU/Hr rating. I have a sneaking suspicion that they are stating the power consumption rating and not the cooling rating (there's quiet a bit of energy loss in the compression of the refrigerant, hence why the condenser coils are a good bit larger than the evaporator coils).

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I'd love to be able to play with one just to see what it can actually do.
 

2FORCEFULL

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update.... Roof a/c showed up,...but the inside part is out of stock..I ordered one from a differant place that say's they have one...
 

2FORCEFULL

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so behind the curtain on pic 2 is microwave. toaster,and coffee maker...



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2FORCEFULL

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I'd love to be able to play with one just to see what it can actually do.

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Question:
what is power requirement at start up?
Answer:
rated current 1-8A, max 10A
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 30, 2019

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Question:
"air conditioner is available as an outdoor or indoor unit" Does outdoor unit come with enclosure to protect from rain?
Answer:
there is no enclosure, also indoor and outdoor unit are in one set
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 30, 2019

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Question:
What size area will this unit cool (cubic feet)?
Answer:
This 12V air conditioner can cool up to 2 cubic meters of space, and the best effect is 1 cubic meter.
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 23, 2019

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Question:
Is there a control system IE: way to turn the unit on and off and thermostat? If not what options would you suggest for controlling this?
Answer:
There is no on/off switch and thermostat, you can purchase according to the drive board diragram
There are four ways to control compressor speed,
1. Potentiometer Speed control(already has) … see more
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 5, 2019
 

2FORCEFULL

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so in real time.... it will cool about a cubic yard in havasu 3'x3' x3'high...
 

2FORCEFULL

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not that anyone cAREs... but , I went out to the cargo tralier @ 11 am,...it has the 300 watt 24v solar panel... it was pulling 7.1 amps, of coarse to get to the 7-8 amps needed to run ac you would need 10 panels...but...7 amps is still handy... should get the battery topped off
 

2FORCEFULL

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Ain't nobody framing over there. wood piles but that is it.
3 man crew, one sick and the other took a week off cause it was too hot....any walls standing yet???
 

Wheeler

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not that anyone cAREs... but , I went out to the cargo tralier @ 11 am,...it has the 300 watt 24v solar panel... it was pulling 7.1 amps, of coarse to get to the 7-8 amps needed to run ac you would need 10 panels...but...7 amps is still handy... should get the battery topped off
If it makes you feel any better Steve. I care. :)
 

Taboma

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If it makes you feel any better Steve. I care. :)
I'd probably care more if I understood what I may or may not care about 🤔 😂 In the last episode I thought we were figuring out if his 200AH battery had enough pop to wind up his new AC. Now we're in a cargo trailer with a 300W 24v solar panel powering something, somewhere off something, that's drawing 7 amps at who knows what voltage 😵
OK, no worries I'll check in later for the cliff notes 👍
 

Wheeler

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One 300 watt 24v panel took up the whole roof
Just out of curiosity, what are the dimensions of the panel?

Do the panels increase size in proportion as the wattage and voltage increase?

I have about 48 12v/120w panels I need to set in place when I finish roofing and wondered if I could make better use of the space with newer style panels.
 

Wheeler

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I'd probably care more if I understood what I may or may not care about 🤔 😂 In the last episode I thought we were figuring out if his 200AH battery had enough pop to wind up his new AC. Now we're in a cargo trailer with a 300W 24v solar panel powering something, somewhere off something, that's drawing 7 amps at who knows what voltage 😵
OK, no worries I'll check in later for the cliff notes 👍
You must be new here. 😁
 

Taboma

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Just out of curiosity, what are the dimensions of the panel?

Do the panels increase size in proportion as the wattage and voltage increase?

I have about 48 12v/120w panels I need to set in place when I finish roofing and wondered if I could make better use of the space with newer style panels.
You mean using 18 of the 320W panels for the same output ? I suppose that depends on if you already own the panels, your battery storage capacity, your inverter size and how much room you have.
OR if you want to add more 320w panels in the space you have. I'm guessing this is for off grid.

The real question is, will it start and run Steve's new AC ? 🤔
 

BasilHayden

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Just out of curiosity, what are the dimensions of the panel?

Do the panels increase size in proportion as the wattage and voltage increase?

I have about 48 12v/120w panels I need to set in place when I finish roofing and wondered if I could make better use of the space with newer style panels.
Price is right on the 48 old panels, but yes you would be better off finding newer panels with better output and voltage. I heard there is a guy in LHC selling some take offs for pretty cheap, otherwise PM me and I could probly send you in the right direction.

Also I am highly circumspect of Steve's panel, I have never heard of a 300w, 24v panel, but who knows, might be a RV specific panel. I am using 320w, 40v panels in my RV/Trailer kits but I am using a pricy inverter/charger that lets me run up to 100 or even 150v and then charge and or invert at 12/24/48 volt as I choose. Currently race trailer are run with 4 standard type 24 batteries in series/parallel sp I have both 12v and 24v taps, this lets me keep the house 12v systems already in the trailers but I charge and invert at 24v which is much more efficient. If I had 8 batteries I would do 12/48 for even more power.

With my current system in our race trailer we run a 13kw AC pretty much all day non stop at the track, around 6pm I need to pay attention as it will finally pull the voltage down due to loss of PV input but I love no longer worrying about fuel for the genset or having to turn the AC on and off. We also randomly have the air compressor running, lights, fridge etc running at the same time. I always forget, I used 8 old 220w panels on this trailer, just because there were a bunch in the yard from take offs. Its the 40 so we had the space. If I used modern 320-240w panels I would have 50% more recovery power.

Honestly its expensive to do it right, and not sure how deep the market would be, but when your sponsor is in the business..., I finally decided I should throw some panels up on the rigs.
 

2FORCEFULL

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I'd probably care more if I understood what I may or may not care about 🤔 😂 In the last episode I thought we were figuring out if his 200AH battery had enough pop to wind up his new AC. Now we're in a cargo trailer with a 300W 24v solar panel powering something, somewhere off something, that's drawing 7 amps at who knows what voltage 😵
OK, no worries I'll check in later for the cliff notes 👍
you just have to read the thread to understand,... I said I was adding a 300watt 24v solar panel to my cargo trailer i was building... the solar is going through a 12v 30 amp controller and down to a 12v battery... from the battery there is a 1000 watt inverter... the solar was producing 7.1 amps of charge....
 

2FORCEFULL

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Just out of curiosity, what are the dimensions of the panel?

Do the panels increase size in proportion as the wattage and voltage increase?

I have about 48 12v/120w panels I need to set in place when I finish roofing and wondered if I could make better use of the space with newer style panels.
I think 39'' x 70''
 

2FORCEFULL

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You mean using 18 of the 320W panels for the same output ? I suppose that depends on if you already own the panels, your battery storage capacity, your inverter size and how much room you have.
OR if you want to add more 320w panels in the space you have. I'm guessing this is for off grid.

The real question is, will it start and run Steve's new AC ? 🤔
my ac won't be a problem, I have 30 amp shore power, and a 2500 watt westinghouse 52 DB gen they say it's quieter than a honda, and it only weighs 50 lbs vs the 118 lb honda..
 

2FORCEFULL

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Price is right on the 48 old panels, but yes you would be better off finding newer panels with better output and voltage. I heard there is a guy in LHC selling some take offs for pretty cheap, otherwise PM me and I could probly send you in the right direction.

Also I am highly circumspect of Steve's panel, I have never heard of a 300w, 24v panel, but who knows, might be a RV specific panel. I am using 320w, 40v panels in my RV/Trailer kits but I am using a pricy inverter/charger that lets me run up to 100 or even 150v and then charge and or invert at 12/24/48 volt as I choose. Currently race trailer are run with 4 standard type 24 batteries in series/parallel sp I have both 12v and 24v taps, this lets me keep the house 12v systems already in the trailers but I charge and invert at 24v which is much more efficient. If I had 8 batteries I would do 12/48 for even more power.

With my current system in our race trailer we run a 13kw AC pretty much all day non stop at the track, around 6pm I need to pay attention as it will finally pull the voltage down due to loss of PV input but I love no longer worrying about fuel for the genset or having to turn the AC on and off. We also randomly have the air compressor running, lights, fridge etc running at the same time. I always forget, I used 8 old 220w panels on this trailer, just because there were a bunch in the yard from take offs. Its the 40 so we had the space. If I used modern 320-240w panels I would have 50% more recovery power.

Honestly its expensive to do it right, and not sure how deep the market would be, but when your sponsor is in the business..., I finally decided I should throw some panels up on the rigs.
I know for fact that my panels aren't 12v, but they could be higher than 24v???? how I got started on this deal...movolts.com... he put the panel on my van, one on the cargo trailer,and one on my motor home... the motor home was pre wired with a controller... the solar didn't work on my rv,.... called go power and when I told him the dimensions of the panel he said, it will never work because my controller was a 12v and the solar panel was a 24v or more..
 

2FORCEFULL

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also what ive learned about the little gens,... the honda 2200 watt is a 1800 watt gen with 2200 watt surge..the westing house igen 2500 is a 2200 watt with 2500 watt peak.... it use's less gas, quieter, and will power more,and only 8lbs more....the next step up for honda jumps to 118 lbs...

my idea here is this...once i get the rest of my ac parts I can try it to see how long it will run off battery /inverter power,.. the math says it will,.... but for how long is question.. but,.. I have shore power, and if there's no where to plug in and absolutely need ac to take a nap... i have the gen....the idea of the stealth camper van is to be able to make it on survival mode....


my wife calls it a cramper with no crapper...so not true...

there is a cabinet with a porta potty... emergency use only, and never has been used..
but..lets say it's raining like a mo fo, and you ate chinesse buffet for lunch...

anyway...got a gorge foreman grill, toaster, micro wave, fridge,coffee maker, propane bb/q, out side table and chairs, inside dinette and queen size bed..tv with dvd and free tv antenna .. roof ac, shore power, 300 watt solar, gel 200 amp hr battery, 3000 watt inverter,,, 17 k tow hitch,.. with a rated 9,900 tow capacity, 6.0 chevy that gets 18 mpg......am I missing any thing....


no body makes anything like this so I had to build my own..
 

Wheeler

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Price is right on the 48 old panels, but yes you would be better off finding newer panels with better output and voltage. I heard there is a guy in LHC selling some take offs for pretty cheap, otherwise PM me and I could probly send you in the right direction.
Thanks for the response. My question about the new vs. old was only a question to satisfy my curiosity. I'm sure that I will have questions when I finally get around to finishing the roof and transferring panels.

I plan on selling the property at some point and if the existing panels test ok I'll use them. If they don't I'll be installing the same model, Kyocera KC-120, as I have 48 or fifty some odd number of 'em in boxes.

Thanks again!

Some of the existing panels.
IMG_3156.jpeg


some of the new

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Taboma

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LOL, probably right. It is an old unit that is definately not effecient, but still pumps out cold air so I havent bothered to upgrade it.
I wasn't sure if you'd forgotten a decimal point or BTU, but didn't think 2 x grp 24 would run 108 amps for long. 😂

Have you guys found a favorite tye-wrap brand and or material that holds up well in the solar environment ? I know that just black UV rated isn't adequate, as it's not so much UV as it seems to be heat making them brittle.
 

Uncle Dave

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I know for fact that my panels aren't 12v, but they could be higher than 24v???? how I got started on this deal...movolts.com... he put the panel on my van, one on the cargo trailer,and one on my motor home... the motor home was pre wired with a controller... the solar didn't work on my rv,.... called go power and when I told him the dimensions of the panel he said, it will never work because my controller was a 12v and the solar panel was a 24v or more..
Yes they can be. Lot of "24V" panels actually operate at higher than 24V and are outside the range of standard 24V controllers.

Look at the voltage on this renology 300. It's closer to 32V.


Take a look at something like a morningstar sun saver. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-mppt/
 

BasilHayden

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I wasn't sure if you'd forgotten a decimal point or BTU, but didn't think 2 x grp 24 would run 108 amps for long. 😂

Have you guys found a favorite tye-wrap brand and or material that holds up well in the solar environment ? I know that just black UV rated isn't adequate, as it's not so much UV as it seems to be heat making them brittle.
On commercial jobs we will use stainless zip ties, where we need dc wire management. On our residential work the wire management is part of our microinverter solution and as such zip ties are mostly avoided, we do occasionally need them and we have been using a very heavy duty black UV, they seem to be holding up well.

The shit work we see when doing service for abandoned customers is frankly criminal. Lucky if they even use wire connectors much less utilize wire management. Its why we try to stress that the install is equally important to the equipment chosen, when someone is focused soley on price per watt I can gaurantee you they will get screwed by a substandard install using crap equipment, but they saved 1k over that guy who was stressing quality. I no longer feel bad charging those for our time to repair, lets just say their hook up wasnt looking so good anymore.
 

mesquito_creek

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Yes they can be. Lot of "24V" panels actually operate at higher than 24V and are outside the range of standard 24V controllers.

Look at the voltage on this renology 300. It's closer to 32V.


Take a look at something like a morningstar sun saver. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-mppt/
I have used 2 of the morningstar controllers recently. One on my camping truck and one on my boat. I am somewhat confused on the 24V panel with a 12V controller also? Not only does that not work in my mind unless it is a 24v12v controller that you can configure to your battery voltage., but you also have to make sure your controller has more AMPs available than the output of the panel.

On my truck I run a single 100w 18v 5.5 amp panel with a 6amp 12v morningstar controller.
On my boat I have a single 120w 18v 7 amp panel with the ability to add a second panel, so I have a morningstar 12v 20 amp controller on that set up.
 

Uncle Dave

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I have used 2 of the morningstar controllers recently. One on my camping truck and one on my boat. I am somewhat confused on the 24V panel with a 12V controller also? Not only does that not work in my mind unless it is a 24v12v controller that you can configure to your battery voltage., but you also have to make sure your controller has more AMPs available than the output of the panel.

On my truck I run a single 100w 18v 5.5 amp panel with a 6amp 12v morningstar controller.
On my boat I have a single 120w 18v 7 amp panel with the ability to add a second panel, so I have a morningstar 12v 20 amp controller on that set up.

The little morningstars are really awesome. I've inadvertently over volted them and still never had a problem.

I looked at the base level go power (most likely the one included) and it only handles 28V so Im guessing thats 2FF's issue.


UD
 

Taboma

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On commercial jobs we will use stainless zip ties, where we need dc wire management. On our residential work the wire management is part of our microinverter solution and as such zip ties are mostly avoided, we do occasionally need them and we have been using a very heavy duty black UV, they seem to be holding up well.

The shit work we see when doing service for abandoned customers is frankly criminal. Lucky if they even use wire connectors much less utilize wire management. Its why we try to stress that the install is equally important to the equipment chosen, when someone is focused soley on price per watt I can gaurantee you they will get screwed by a substandard install using crap equipment, but they saved 1k over that guy who was stressing quality. I no longer feel bad charging those for our time to repair, lets just say their hook up wasnt looking so good anymore.
Thanks !!
Reason I asked, I have a neighbor who's system is 10 years old (Same age as mine), he's noticed of late he's finding broken tye wraps on the ground occasionally. I've checked a few and they're extremely brittle. Since they're really not in direct sunlight (Mostly shaded by the panels), I can only assume it's more the heat and or heat-cold-heat swings. Noticing a few of mine had popped, I started checking solar web sites for solutions. Noticed several types with various types of plastics, all claiming extreme UV, but some they claim are more heat and chemical resistant as well. Also noticed the stainless and various clips available. Was curious if stainless was being used with aluminum track and channel, being dissimilar metals, or these expensive ones on the solar site were worth the $$.
I posed the question to my son who's an EC in Ventura Co. he's doing quite a few gens and batt backups, but hasn't jumped into the solar market. He checked with a few guys in the business and their response was mostly --- Just black UV tye wraps, like the broken ones at my neighbors.
But I don't know of many plastics that will hold up to 10 years of a roof top environment, if they're under stress. I'd think less initial tension would allow them to last longer.
So more than likely the jobs you're cleaning up later. 😁
 

BasilHayden

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also what ive learned about the little gens,... the honda 2200 watt is a 1800 watt gen with 2200 watt surge..the westing house igen 2500 is a 2200 watt with 2500 watt peak.... it use's less gas, quieter, and will power more,and only 8lbs more....the next step up for honda jumps to 118 lbs...

my idea here is this...once i get the rest of my ac parts I can try it to see how long it will run off battery /inverter power,.. the math says it will,.... but for how long is question.. but,.. I have shore power, and if there's no where to plug in and absolutely need ac to take a nap... i have the gen....the idea of the stealth camper van is to be able to make it on survival mode....


my wife calls it a cramper with no crapper...so not true...

there is a cabinet with a porta potty... emergency use only, and never has been used..
but..lets say it's raining like a mo fo, and you ate chinesse buffet for lunch...

anyway...got a gorge foreman grill, toaster, micro wave, fridge,coffee maker, propane bb/q, out side table and chairs, inside dinette and queen size bed..tv with dvd and free tv antenna .. roof ac, shore power, 300 watt solar, gel 200 amp hr battery, 3000 watt inverter,,, 17 k tow hitch,.. with a rated 9,900 tow capacity, 6.0 chevy that gets 18 mpg......am I missing any thing....


no body makes anything like this so I had to build my own..
So, now they we threadjacked the ad, is this on the market yet? :p
 

rush1

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  • 0
    votes
Question:
what is power requirement at start up?
Answer:
rated current 1-8A, max 10A
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 30, 2019

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    votes
Question:
"air conditioner is available as an outdoor or indoor unit" Does outdoor unit come with enclosure to protect from rain?
Answer:
there is no enclosure, also indoor and outdoor unit are in one set
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 30, 2019

  • 0
    votes
Question:
What size area will this unit cool (cubic feet)?
Answer:
This 12V air conditioner can cool up to 2 cubic meters of space, and the best effect is 1 cubic meter.
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 23, 2019

  • 0
    votes
Question:
Is there a control system IE: way to turn the unit on and off and thermostat? If not what options would you suggest for controlling this?
Answer:
There is no on/off switch and thermostat, you can purchase according to the drive board diragram
There are four ways to control compressor speed,
1. Potentiometer Speed control(already has) … see more
By usfenghezhan SELLER on July 5, 2019
Sounds like a worthless piece of shit, I wonder what they even manufacture it for?
 

lbhsbz

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Not having read the whole thread...what about a double stack of panels that fold up...they won’t work on the road, but when arrive at a destination, unfold them and the second set acts as an awning too. Double the square footage, double the power.
 

2FORCEFULL

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Top line is correct, except the last item should be Amps = Watts divided by Volts

I believe your conclusion is correct: with the A/C unit drawing 11.7 amps at 120 volts, you will be somewhere around 130 amps at 12 volts through the inverter. The 200 amp-hour battery will not be adequate.
so a 120v tv that pulls 45 watts.....= 0.37 amps???... correct???
 

2FORCEFULL

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The little morningstars are really awesome. I've inadvertently over volted them and still never had a problem.

I looked at the base level go power (most likely the one included) and it only handles 28V so Im guessing thats 2FF's issue.


UD
my go power that came with the rv was 12v only... wouldn't work at all for 24v...
 

2FORCEFULL

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So, now they we threadjacked the ad, is this on the market yet? :p
no, but I did buy a little camper to place on job sites...today, bout 115 outside, I took a nap in it high noon,...with the ac on low I had to have covers.... on high I was freezing...you can feel the air blowing on you in the queensize bed..


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2FORCEFULL

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also... I'm going round and round with the "12V STORE" I order from them a roof ac,.... the ac comes in two parts,... roof unit and the inside mounting parts,... you have to order for a duct system, or with out....the roof part showed up,... but not the inside part,...few days go by and they said that the inside part was back ordered...when I bought it they said in stock,.. ship in 3 days.... well,... not the case... they just drop ship from a big supply house...so,.. I waited,.... then they said,.... we can't get the in side half, so we refunded 89 bucks..... wtf......so then I find out that no one else has the parts and they are obsolete ,... so I say,... come get it all and give all my money back....crickets....... so time goes by,... and I call my credit card company... and do a charge back... so today they email me this..." has it been installed?"... im sure there is some verbage they have that if it's installed, no returns.... well, you can't install it, there no bolts, instructions,.. or controlls.... this came shipped by truck, taped to a pallet.....pissed....
 
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