mjc
Retired Neighbor
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- Jan 3, 2008
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Yep there are walls up.should be looking like a stick forest today...
Yep there are walls up.should be looking like a stick forest today...
also... I'm going round and round with the "12V STORE" I order from them a roof ac,.... the ac comes in two parts,... roof unit and the inside mounting parts,... you have to order for a duct system, or with out....the roof part showed up,... but not the inside part,...few days go by and they said that the inside part was back ordered...when I bought it they said in stock,.. ship in 3 days.... well,... not the case... they just drop ship from a big supply house...so,.. I waited,.... then they said,.... we can't get the in side half, so we refunded 89 bucks..... wtf......so then I find out that no one else has the parts and they are obsolete ,... so I say,... come get it all and give all my money back....crickets....... so time goes by,... and I call my credit card company... and do a charge back... so today they email me this..." has it been installed?"... im sure there is some verbage they have that if it's installed, no returns.... well, you can't install it, there no bolts, instructions,.. or controlls.... this came shipped by truck, taped to a pallet.....pissed....
You also have the start up Amps when the unit first kicks on . A company makes a capacitor for rv ac’s that reduces that and you can run one rv ac off of a Honda 2,000 gen. It’s about 250$ for it
.... but if you are staying over night,,you'll need the gen or shore power...still wanna find out how the new class b' are doing it for 8-10hrs on 200 amp battery????
I'm thinking the coleman cub 9000 btu must have some kind of soft start built in because when you go fromfan to A/C there is no differance, in fact I put my clamp on tester to see if the compressor was even coming on,.... same when it cycled ,... no noteable differance in sound...all in all... very very happy with the results..I can go to a job site, or camp ground, or just pull over where ever......self contained Van down by the river....lolYou also have the start up Amps when the unit first kicks on . A company makes a capacitor for rv ac’s that reduces that and you can run one rv ac off of a Honda 2,000 gen. It’s about 250$ for it
That’s will be nice I did a amp Check on a panel one day because there were some issues , with both airs on and maybe a fewI'm thinking the coleman cub 9000 btu must have some kind of soft start built in because when you go fromfan to A/C there is no differance, in fact I put my clamp on tester to see if the compressor was even coming on,.... same when it cycled ,... no noteable differance in sound...all in all... very very happy with the results..I can go to a job site, or camp ground, or just pull over where ever......self contained Van down by the river....lol
also wanna add... no startup problem with my a/c... but it is only 9000 btu... when I turned on the A/C the fan didn't even come on with the 3000 watt converter...so for it to go 1 hour,... must have been pulling an average of 10 amps..or less... still had 60% battery when the first beeper went off.. it'll shut off at 10.8 volts
warning beeper goes off at 60% 11.8 voltsIf you're running the battery down to 10.8 volts, that's 100% discharged. Repeatedly allowing the battery to reach that state of discharge will have an extreme effect on its lifespan.
The typical discharge voltage allowed for 12 volt deep cycle batteries that provides the most discharge-charge cycles is 60%.
You'll be fortunate if you get 40-50 cycles out of it before it fails.
my battery says 750 50% discharge cyclesIf you're running the battery down to 10.8 volts, that's 100% discharged. Repeatedly allowing the battery to reach that state of discharge will have an extreme effect on its lifespan.
The typical discharge voltage allowed for 12 volt deep cycle batteries that provides the most discharge-charge cycles is 60%.
You'll be fortunate if you get 40-50 cycles out of it before it fails.
my battery says 750 50% discharge cycles
YES!!!!, I've learned from him...This dude has all the info you will ever need on solar, chargers, batteries, cables, inverters, converters, controller's etc. I've spent hours watching him do live testing and tear stuff apart. Can't recommend him enough. He will teach you the correct load calcs, AC draw with live testing etc
https://m.youtube.com/c/WillProwse/videos?disable_polymer=true&itct=CBIQ8JMBGAEiEwiP4LPL2fzqAhVHt8QKHYm5BnI=
NO, when they test them the run them on load.. ,drain the fluids , and ship...if one sets on the shelf and they didn't drain the carb bowl they get gummed up and won't run.... I ran a bunch of lucus through it and it runs fine... ran it for 2 hrs yesterday with the A/C on low... the bed was @ 62 degrees with the temp set to max,.. another cool thing is you can reach right up and turn controls... only difference running on high was about 100 watts... 1490 on low and 1590 on high... that's at full load 115 degrees outside..So you were sold a used generator?
RENOGY DEEP CYCLE HYBRID GEL BATTERY 12V 100AH | |
---|---|
Nominal Voltage: 12V | Rated Capacity:100Ah@20hr-rate to 10.5V @ 25°C / 77°F |
Reference Capacity:C3: 74.4Ah;C5: 83.5Ah;C10: 95.0Ah;C20: 100.0Ah | Float Charging Voltage:13.6V~13.8V (25°C / 77°F);Temperature Compensation: -18mV/°C |
Cycle Use Voltage:14.2V~14.4V (25°C / 77°F);Temperature Compensation: -24mV/°C | Equalization Voltage:14.2V (25°C / 77°F) |
Max Discharge Current:1000A (5 seconds) | Max Charge Current:30A |
Normal Operating Temperature:77°F±9°F / 25°C±5°C | Operating Temperature Rangeischarge: -4°F~140°F / -20°C~60°C;Charge: 32°F~122°F / 0°C~50°C |
Storage Temperature Range:-4°F~140°F / -20°C~60°C | Self Discharge Rate:≤3% per month at 25°C / 77°F |
Terminal Bolt Size:M8 x 1.25 x 16 mm | Internal Resistance:Approx. 6.0mΩ |
Container Material:ABS | Weight:63.9 lb. / 29 kg |
Dimension:12.9 x 6.8 x 8.7 inch / 328 x 172 x 220 mm | Recommended Terminal Torque:88.5-106.2 inch·lb / 10-12 N·m |
NO,.... I have the one 200ah battery...You have 2 of these in parallel right Steve?
IF so better be careful hooking them up to an alternator - the max charge rate on these is fairly low lower than a high amp alternator.
AN alterator driven separate charger like a ctek 250 would be a good idea.
This also acts as an isolator so you wouldnt need to buy that and integrates as an mppt charger with solar up to X volts- you may be over.
RENOGY DEEP CYCLE HYBRID GEL BATTERY 12V 100AH Nominal Voltage: 12V Rated Capacity:100Ah@20hr-rate to 10.5V @ 25°C / 77°F Reference Capacity:C3: 74.4Ah;C5: 83.5Ah;C10: 95.0Ah;C20: 100.0Ah Float Charging Voltage:13.6V~13.8V (25°C / 77°F);Temperature Compensation: -18mV/°C Cycle Use Voltage:14.2V~14.4V (25°C / 77°F);Temperature Compensation: -24mV/°C Equalization Voltage:14.2V (25°C / 77°F) Max Discharge Current:1000A (5 seconds) Max Charge Current:30A Normal Operating Temperature:77°F±9°F / 25°C±5°C Operating Temperature Rangeischarge: -4°F~140°F / -20°C~60°C;Charge: 32°F~122°F / 0°C~50°C Storage Temperature Range:-4°F~140°F / -20°C~60°C Self Discharge Rate:≤3% per month at 25°C / 77°F Terminal Bolt Size:M8 x 1.25 x 16 mm Internal Resistance:Approx. 6.0mΩ Container Material:ABS Weight:63.9 lb. / 29 kg Dimension:12.9 x 6.8 x 8.7 inch / 328 x 172 x 220 mm Recommended Terminal Torque:88.5-106.2 inch·lb / 10-12 N·m
I'm doing the "The idle for power scheme is one way to keep continuous power flowing, but you have to look at what you actually put out at idle as far as amps go, and without a hairpin type alternator or fast idle kit it's usually deminimis. There will be a curve on the kit that shows you what you'll get at idle.
Some other things to consider about that scheme.
1 hour of idling is more or less equivalent to 33 miles of driving. (based on Fords study of government service vehicles)
Without airflow under the vehicle the cat and exhaust are going to create and trap ton of heat - that will xfer to the interior to some degree negating some cooling.
Depending on the year of the vehicle if it uses a Direct injection system idling will foul the oil with fuel at a much faster than a typical drive will, and the OLM will signal an oil change at around 3K (with a nights worth of idling being about 240 of those miles). IF one is going to do this frequently Id suggest an oil analysis regimen, or at min follow the severe service schedule even with synthetic oil.
Thanks for sharing your tribulations with us Steve.
Dave
interesting,,,...how many amps can you charge a reg. lead acid car battery???Got it - almost the same exact result paralleling the 2x100AH batts- 60 AH max charge.
This isolator will pass 140 amps at (probably 13.6 volts) through it which is great for a 4 batt bank, but too much for your single battery
You can only charge that battery at 60 amps - you'll likely cook it at the charge rate the alternator can put out.
How many amps is your alternator at freeway speed?
Id guess your alternator is closer to 100 than 60 amps.
UD
interesting,,,...how many amps can you charge a reg. lead acid car battery???
a 200 ah battery, considered dead @ 100 amps,... or 10.8???? is not gonna draw 200 amps of charge, I don't think...Depends on the battery chemistry and construction - each manufacturer has a defined rate of charge/discharge
This charge and discharge rate is whats known as the "C" rate by many manufacturers, its safe to assume the charge and discharge rate are about equal.
Odyssey AGMs have an extremely low internal resistance and can allow bulk charging at the same amperage as the face value of the battery - you can slam 80% of the amps back into them quickly without an overheat.
I'm thinking this...............a 200 amp alt... will take a 200 amp draw.... a low battery will not ever ask for 200 amps...I think the 60 amps is the max the battery will pull...
I personaly don't know what is right...but.. here's the way I was taught... It's not the amps that will kill it, it's the volts... charge with over 14 volts and it'll kill the battery, thats what the controller is for..as far as amps,... the max amps of 60 is the max amps it will accept, anything over it won't absorb so it's just a waist....Depends on the battery chemistry and construction - each manufacturer has a defined rate of charge/discharge
This charge and discharge rate is whats known as the "C" rate by many manufacturers, its safe to assume the charge and discharge rate are about equal.
Odyssey AGMs have an extremely low internal resistance and can allow bulk charging at the same amperage as the face value of the battery - you can slam 80% of the amps back into them quickly without an overheat.
first off, Thanks for all your posts!!!.. I've learned from you through the years.... your post raises yet another question...voltage regulator..... if your battery is not dead... the alt charges at a lower rate... if you ac is not on, the alt produces less amps.... the alt doesn't put out any amps with out an amp draw...Heres how this was explained to me- FWIW
The battery isnt "pulling" when its taking a charge- the alternator is pushing. Its like a battery charger with a fixed output at say 1700 RPM
Your starter battery doesnt consistently drain down as far and as such doenst often require deep bulk cycle charges bouncing between 80-95%
IF you wanted that battery to live the longest possible life you'd charge it with as low an amperage as you can get away with between discharges - that creates less internal heat and off gassing, but with a 100 Amp alternator you are charging at max or above max rate every cycle.
dedicated chargers have multiple stages (and temp sensors) and taper the amp output based on voltage as the voltage gets closer to max they taper downward - your (anyones) alternator has one charge rate when driving down the freeway- full bore.
Your setup will for sure work I think based on what Ive seen though that you are going to end up cooking your battery early..
UD
NO,.... I have the one 200ah battery...
Battery Specifications
12V 200AH Deep Cycle Hybrid GEL Battery
now, according to their specs I can go 10.8 volts , 750 times or more..."?????
- Rated Capacity: 200Ah@20hr-rate to 10.8V @ 25℃ / 77℉
- Reference Capacity: C3: 148.5Ah/C5: 167.0Ah/C10: 190.0Ah/C20: 200.0Ah
- Float Charging Voltage: 13.6V~13.8V 77℉ -Temperature Compensation: -18mV/℃
- Cycle Use Voltage: 14.2V~14.4V 77℉ -Temperature Compensation: -24mV/℃
- Equalization Voltage: 14.2V 77℉
- Max Discharge Current: 2000A (5 seconds)
- Max Charge Current: 60A
- Operating Temperature Range: Discharge: -4℉~140℉/ Charge: 32℉~122℉
- Storage Temperature Range: -4℉~140℉
- Self Discharge Rate: ≤3% per month at 77℉
I personaly don't know what is right...but.. here's the way I was taught... It's not the amps that will kill it, it's the volts... charge with over 14 volts and it'll kill the battery, thats what the controller is for..as far as amps,... the max amps of 60 is the max amps it will accept, anything over it won't absorb so it's just a waist....
like I said, I don't know,... but having fun learning all I caan before I die.... might need to know on the other side..
As your load increases, your realized capacity decreases. This means if you discharged that same 100 AH battery by a 100 amp load, it will not give you one hour of runtime.
I personaly don't know what is right...but.. here's the way I was taught... It's not the amps that will kill it, it's the volts... charge with over 14 volts and it'll kill the battery, thats what the controller is for..as far as amps,... the max amps of 60 is the max amps it will accept, anything over it won't absorb so it's just a waist....
like I said, I don't know,... but having fun learning all I caan before I die.... might need to know on the other side..
IF you wanted that battery to live the longest possible life you'd charge it with as low an amperage as you can get away with between discharges - that creates less internal heat and off gassing, but with a 100 Amp alternator you are charging at max or above max rate every cycle.
here's a concern of mine with no definite answer,... here's the deal.. on my rv,... I have a reg lead acid battery for the chassis...I have a 200 ah gel for the coach.... I have 300 watt solar hooked to the coach battery....I tow a trailer... with another 300 watt solar feeding a single rv deep cycle battery,...
before putting the solar and the trailer battery, I had a 12v wire coming from the coach battery's to power the trailer....when I added the trailer solar and battery, I disconnected the 12v wire that hooked the trailer to coach power... so now,... the trailer is stand alone..... my question is this,... what if I hooked the wire back up,... this would end up making a battery bank with different battery's... and end up with two solar systems,... correct???
so I say the wire has to stay disconected....Correct????.. the idea would be that going down the road the alt would charge the trailer battery,...
Any batteries that are tied together should be of the same type/size and same state of charge. Also, alternators are not battery chargers...they are designed to supply power to support a load using the battery as a buffer. You'd do better to run a charger off the genset for the house batteries, along with the solar, and keep the alternator for the chassis battery.
This is incorrect. Automotive deep cycle type battery initial recharge rates should be a percentage (usually 10-20%) of its Ah capacity, and the current will taper off as the state of charge increases. The typical electronically controlled charger accomplishes this automatically.
Using a vehicle alternator to recharge a battery that is subject to repeated discharges and a moderate depth of discharge will result in a less than optimum battery life, but it's not a significant difference.
The battery will be recharged at the maximum voltage output of the alternator, about 14.8 volts, not the current capacity (in this case 100 amps) of the alternator. An alternator will produce its maximum rated amperage output only if the load demands it, but at a voltage that is the maximum value established by its voltage regulator. Although batteries do have a self limiting amount of current acceptance, constant voltage charging automatically reduces the charge current as the battery reaches full charge.
Steve mentioned his understanding that amperage, not voltage, is the determining factor in reducing battery life. In fact, both are intertwined and inseparable. When the DC charging voltage is increased, so does the charge amperage. This is different than the properties of AC systems, where voltage remains constant as the load, expressed in amps, is increased or decreased.
Deep cycle lead acid and AGM batteries should ideally be recharged in a three step process that automatically reduces the charge voltage and current as a function of time. Electronically controlled step chargers properly perform this function.
This chart shows the relationship between voltage and amperage in battery charging. The chart also illustrates both the amperage, volts per cell (VPC) charge rates, and the desired time at each charging stage. which will produce a 100% charge and the longest life for the battery.
Regardless of the manner used to recharge the battery, excessive heat and off gassing will not be an issue as long as the battery hasn't been discharged an extreme amount. In those instances, because of the higher current involved, the battery temperature should be monitored during the initial charge stage.
pretty sure that's the way it is on the RV, ,when plugged in or gen running,...it gets it's charge through the power converter.....on the RV there is a BIN, that isolates the house from chassis battery's I think... the BIN allows for the chassis to be charged, then when in float ,charge the house battery'sAny batteries that are tied together should be of the same type/size and same state of charge. Also, alternators are not battery chargers...they are designed to supply power to support a load using the battery as a buffer. You'd do better to run a charger off the genset for the house batteries, along with the solar, and keep the alternator for the chassis battery.
Damn,... wish you were close by so I could show you the first ,what I though after buying was way over kill...Here's my last setup
It has an onan 8K for main power and when you need massive amps (dog grooming vans are horrific)
An outback 2000 inverter with built in charger and 2 pc 1800's carries you through when you dont need AC and a high power dryer.
Just had a guy lose his deposit - dropped 10K to hold it a month and 2 weeks ago and can't get a loan.
Bummed for him- bummed for me.
UD
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