Weatherproof electrical connection question

[LargeOrangeFont]

I want to replace the outdoor halogen 120V floodlights on my trailer with LED units.

The trailer has a weatherproof junction on it now that goes to a knuckle mount flood light.

Junction looks like this. The knuckle light mount is threaded into it.

I am going to an LED flood light like this. What can I do to weatherproof the junction? Is there a fitting I can screw into the junction that has a seal or gasket or something on it that I could pass the power wires through?

 

[Daytona47]

That’s a meyers hub in your picture that is not going to work you need a SO type connector. 1/2 should fit that nicely. You will screw the so chord connector into your outdoor rated bell box and feed wire through connector till snug. A little silicone won’t hurt either.

 

[Daytona47]

Same concept. This was some led’s we installed at a Walmart in Santa Clarita. 1/2 chord connector does the trick.

 

[hallett21]

Can you post a photo of existing?

Meyers hub isn’t a normal connection for what you’re describing. Unless I’m reading it wrong


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[Taboma]

Yes, what Daytona47 recommended. And since the existing WP box cover is threaded and because the SO cord connector isn't directional, you won't need the lock-nut.

 

[Taboma]

Can you post a photo of existing?

Meyers hub isn’t a normal connection for what you’re describing. Unless I’m reading it wrong


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Wonder if he's using a Klein non-contact tester ?

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Can you post a photo of existing?

Meyers hub isn’t a normal connection for what you’re describing. Unless I’m reading it wrong

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Existing floodlight. That fitting goes right into an electrical box that is on the inside of the trailer. I want to now just pass wires through that fitting and want a way to seal them up. I will mount the floodlight to the recessed bucket.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

That’s a meyers hub in your picture that is not going to work you need a SO type connector. 1/2 should fit that nicely. You will screw the so chord connector into your outdoor rated bell box and feed wire through connector till snug. A little silicone won’t hurt either. View attachment 1016871

This looks like what I need.

 

[BigAl96]

Not sure if it will work for your situation, but check out the neutrik connectors. They are locking and removable. They are really made for speakers but with an led flood it may have a small enough current draw that they would work

 

[Taboma]

This looks like what I need.

Just google CGB cord connector, you want to size the grommet for the size (Diameter) cord you're using. What I can't tell from your pic, does that Myers hub go through a knock out in the J-box inside ? If so, cool, just remove the fixture and leave the Myers hub, screw the CGB connector into that hub and you're good to go. You can get the CGB cord connects at Home Depot.

Once you cut the existing fixture wires loose in the J-box, (I'm assuming you can access it from inside) --- remove the bolt at the fixture knuckle, pull a bit of slack then you can pull the fixture out of the hole and spin the stem out of the Myers hub -- unless it's just easier to remove the lock nut and the hub to remove the fixture ??

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Just google CGB cord connector, you want to size the grommet for the size (Diameter) cord you're using. What I can't tell from your pic, does that Myers hub go through a knock out in the J-box inside ? If so, cool, just remove the fixture and leave the Myers hub, screw the CGB connector into that hub and you're good to go. You can get the CGB cord connects at Home Depot.

Once you cut the existing fixture wires loose in the J-box, (I'm assuming you can access it from inside) --- remove the bolt at the fixture knuckle, pull a bit of slack then you can pull the fixture out of the hole and spin the stem out of the Myers hub -- unless it's just easier to remove the lock nut and the hub to remove the fixture ??

Yea the hub goes through directly into the box inside which I have access to. I have already had the light off and put it back in because I was test fitting some other LED lights.

So when I get the lights I should measure the OD of the power cable and get a CGB with the appropriate ID to match the cord or will it just seal around the cord the more I tighten it?

I was getting some lumber earlier at Home Depot and picked up something similar but still would not be watertight. I will go back and look for the CGB style connector.

 

[Taboma]

Yea the hub goes through directly into the box inside which I have access to. I have already had the light off and put it back in because I was test fitting some other LED lights.

So when I get the lights I should measure the OD of the power cable and get a CGB with the appropriate ID to match the cord or will it just seal around the cord the more I tighten it?

I was getting some lumber earlier at Home Depot and picked up something similar but still would not be watertight. I will go back and look for the CGB style connector.

Here's the only one I can find they stock at Home Depot ---
1/2 in. ACC Non-Metallic Strain Relief Cord Connector
by Halex


Yes, as you tighten the gland it contracts and seals around the cord --- in theory, but typical with HD, they don't mention the cord diameter. Of course at the point it pass through the gland, you wouldn't be the first to wrap a few layers of vinyl electrical tape to built it up a bit if needed. Lowes doesn't seem to have squat, so unless you've to an electrical wholesale in the area, HD might be your best shot. I see Amazon has some Crouse Hinds CGB connectors, friggin $ 18 -20 a connector --- OUCH.
For that project, I'd head back to HD and call it good.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Here's the only one I can find they stock at Home Depot ---
1/2 in. ACC Non-Metallic Strain Relief Cord Connector
by Halex


Yes, as you tighten the gland it contracts and seals around the cord --- in theory, but typical with HD, they don't mention the cord diameter. Of course at the point it pass through the gland, you wouldn't be the first to wrap a few layers of vinyl electrical tape to built it up a bit if needed. Lowes doesn't seem to have squat, so unless you've to an electrical wholesale in the area, HD might be your best shot. I see Amazon has some Crouse Hinds CGB connectors, friggin $ 18 -20 a connector --- OUCH.
For that project, I'd head back to HD and call it good.

This was what I found at HD. I didn’t do an exhaustive search though. It was $2.65 each. I was thinking of passing the wire through and packing the gap in the fitting with Water Weld and calling it good. It would be water tight and weatherproof forever. The pass through ID on this fitting is giant though, so I wanted to try to find something else.

If like to find the “right” fitting so I’ll try again.

 

[Taboma]

This was what I found at HD. I didn’t do an exhaustive search though. It was $2.65 each. I was thinking of passing the wire through and packing the gap in the fitting with Water Weld and calling it good. It would be water tight and weatherproof forever. The pass through ID on this fitting is giant though, so I wanted to try to find something else.

If like to find the “right” fitting so I’ll try again.


View attachment 1017238

That fitting isn't for cords, it's for liquid-tite flexible conduit. The one I recommended is for round cords and will probably work fine.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

That fitting isn't for cords, it's for liquid-tite flexible conduit. The one I recommended is for round cords and will probably work fine.

That what I figured. Thanks for the guidance.

 

[hallett21]

Look up Westgate LED fixtures. The have a 1/2” threaded knuckle. We normally install them in outdoor boxes with 1/2” threaded kos.

The Meyers hub you showed is the same 1/2” size. This would just be an easy swap rather than having to go find parts.

They make 12v or 120v


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[hallett21]

Westgate Lighting LED Flood Light with Knuckle Mount - Security Floodlight Fixture for Outdoor Yard Landscape Garden Lights - Safety Floodlights - UL Listed (50 Watt 5000K Cool White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0187RU7JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5E3D55717TBVX5S9DRZG


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[LargeOrangeFont]

Westgate Lighting LED Flood Light with Knuckle Mount - Security Floodlight Fixture for Outdoor Yard Landscape Garden Lights - Safety Floodlights - UL Listed (50 Watt 5000K Cool White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0187RU7JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5E3D55717TBVX5S9DRZG


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I just looked at their knuckle mount floodlights, and they have the same issue as the knuckle mount LED I already tried. The knuckle is on the bottom, and does not fit into my recessed mounting bucket. Notice that on my current light the knuckle mount is on the back of the light. I have not been able to find an LED with the knuckle mount on the back.

 

[hallett21]

I just looked at their knuckle mount floodlights, and they have the same issue as the knuckle mount LED I already tried. The knuckle is on the bottom, and does not fit into my recessed mounting bucket. Notice that on my current light the knuckle mount is on the back of the light. I have not been able to find an LED with the knuckle mount on the back.

I’m assuming you ideally want to flush out with the edge?

Or are you saying into couldn’t spin them in/out?


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[LargeOrangeFont]

I’m assuming you ideally want to flush out with the edge?

Or are you saying into couldn’t spin them in/out?


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They don’t fit in the bucket. They are too tall and I can’t aim them at the ground because of the extra height.

 

[hallett21]

They don’t fit in the bucket. They are too tall and I can’t aim them at the ground because of the extra height.

Buy a new trailer







[emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]


Go with the further up suggestions and get a rain tight SO cord connector. Any electrical place should stock them. Or Amazon


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[LargeOrangeFont]

Buy a new trailer







[emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]


Go with the further up suggestions and get a rain tight SO cord connector. Any electrical place should stock them. Or Amazon


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I like the trailer, plus I just verified I could get my race car into it today.

Those halogens just use so much power, the LEDs will allow me to cook food and leave the lights on when using my generator LOL.

 

[rrrr]

Your current light is installed in a recessed box with a Meyer's hub, and it conforms to a NEMA 3 standard for damp locations. Rainwater would have to soak the inside of the recessed box and travel vertically through the hub to introduce water into the junction box. Obviously that can't happen.

You're asking for a "weatherproof" connector, which is not necessary. It just needs to conform to NEMA 3 standards, which will, according to the NEC, "provide a degree of protection with respect to harmful effects on the equipment due to the ingress of water (rain, sleet, snow)."

Don't overthink it.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Your current light is installed in a recessed box with a Meyer's hub, and it conforms to a NEMA 3 standard for damp locations. Rainwater would have to soak the inside of the recessed box and travel vertically through the hub to introduce water into the junction box. Obviously that can't happen.

You're asking for a "watertight" connector, which is not necessary. It just needs to confirm to NEMA 3 standard, which will, according to the NEC, "provide a degree of protection with respect to harmful effects on the equipment due to the ingress of water (rain, sleet, snow)."

Don't overthink it.

Agreed 100% I just figured there had to be an easily obtainable fitting to do what I want lol.

I’m not going to spend $18 a fitting though. I’ll just fill the Meyer’s hub with water weld Or epoxy, drill it out, and pass the wire through.

 

[hallett21]

Your current light is installed in a recessed box with a Meyer's hub, and it conforms to a NEMA 3 standard for damp locations. Rainwater would have to soak the inside of the recessed box and travel vertically through the hub to introduce water into the junction box. Obviously that can't happen.

You're asking for a "weatherproof" connector, which is not necessary. It just needs to confirm to NEMA 3 standard, which will, according to the NEC, "provide a degree of protection with respect to harmful effects on the equipment due to the ingress of water (rain, sleet, snow)."

Don't overthink it.

Pressure washer may find its way lol


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[LargeOrangeFont]

Pressure washer may find its way lol


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Challenge accepted.

 

[rrrr]

Pressure washer may find its way lol


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NEMA 3 doesn't contemplate nitwits with pressure washers.

 

[hallett21]

Not sure on the wire diameter but I bet these work if you’re worried

Cable Gland 1/2 Npt,Nylon Plastic Connectors with Lock Nut and Gaskets IP68 Waterproof Adjustable 6-12mm Cord Gland,UL Approved (12 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9ZTF1...abc_DE6NPB6KZXKRBENHWA7F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


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[Taboma]

Not sure on the wire diameter but I bet these work if you’re worried

Cable Gland 1/2 Npt,Nylon Plastic Connectors with Lock Nut and Gaskets IP68 Waterproof Adjustable 6-12mm Cord Gland,UL Approved (12 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9ZTF1...abc_DE6NPB6KZXKRBENHWA7F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


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But wait, imagine this, he could return to Home Depot, receive a credit for the liquid-tite fitting he purchased earlier, buy the strain relief CGB they carry, and call it good.

OR maybe if he added a street elbow and a short nipple with a coupling, he could raise the Westgate and get enough angle to illuminate the ground ?? Assuming the pigtails are long enough.

I see no reason this thread can't run another two pages is we put our heads together

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

But wait, imagine this, he could return to Home Depot, receive a credit for the liquid-tite fitting he purchased earlier, buy the strain relief CGB they carry, and call it good.

OR maybe if he added a street elbow and a short nipple with a coupling, he could raise the Westgate and get enough angle to illuminate the ground ?? Assuming the pigtails are long enough.

I see no reason this thread can't run another two pages is we put our heads together

No the westgate wont fit unless it is protruding out of the side of the trailer, which is a non starter.

I gotta go to HD again today anyway. I’ll see if they have it. If not, thanks @hallett21 those will work, the wire is between 1/4” and 1/2”.

We can certainly drag this out!

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

This is the exact setup im doing. These LED lights arrived today.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Perhaps we can stretch this out further..

The 1/2” gland nuts arrived via Amazon yesterday. Really nice piece, with a sealing O ring on the outside flange. I finally got this all done this morning. Came out fantastic and it was really easy with these fittings. These 50w LEDs are plenty bright.

 

[Taboma]

Perhaps we can stretch this out further..

The 1/2” gland nuts arrived via Amazon yesterday. Really nice piece, with a sealing O ring on the outside flange. I finally got this all done this morning. Came out fantastic and it was really easy with these fittings. These 50w LEDs are plenty bright.

View attachment 1019019 View attachment 1019020 View attachment 1019021 View attachment 1019022 View attachment 1019023

Looks great

 

[highvoltagehands]

Thats a nice clean install LOF. LED light technology is king of the mountain right now and hopefully it’s a UL listed unit. If its not a UL listed unit, it’s durability is a crap shoot and most don’t last anywhere near their rated life. I’ve replaced multiple recess light LED lamps rated for 25K hours after just 5 years and have had 2 outdoor LED motion detector fixtures from costco go bad after just a couple of years. Now I check for UL listing if i want problem free equipment That lasts.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Amazona has plenty on replacement LED bulbs for the standard 500 watt halogen. Just a FYI for anybody in these same shoes again later.

Shit, I think they make an LED replacement bulb for all types now-a-days

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[fishing fool]

Lets see it on....

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Thats a nice clean install LOF. LED light technology is king of the mountain right now and hopefully it’s a UL listed unit. If its not a UL listed unit, it’s durability is a crap shoot and most don’t last anywhere near their rated life. I’ve replaced multiple recess light LED lamps rated for 25K hours after just 5 years and have had 2 outdoor LED motion detector fixtures from costco go bad after just a couple of years. Now I check for UL listing if i want problem free equipment That lasts.

Thanks. These seem to be UL listed. I’m buying another pair to have as a spare. The reviews on these were pretty good, but some people did have problems. They are cheap enough and will be very easy to swap if one went bad.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Amazona has plenty on replacement LED bulbs for the standard 500 watt halogen. Just a FYI for anybody in these same shoes again later.

Shit, I think they make an LED replacement bulb for all types now-a-days

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I thought about that but the guys at Universal said they had better luck with this style of light.

 

[Taboma]

Thats a nice clean install LOF. LED light technology is king of the mountain right now and hopefully it’s a UL listed unit. If its not a UL listed unit, it’s durability is a crap shoot and most don’t last anywhere near their rated life. I’ve replaced multiple recess light LED lamps rated for 25K hours after just 5 years and have had 2 outdoor LED motion detector fixtures from costco go bad after just a couple of years. Now I check for UL listing if i want problem free equipment That lasts.

Are you judging a fixture's quality based on the company's willingness or ability to spend the money to obtain a UL safety listing ?
What about an ETL Listing vs UL ?
I've honestly never actually considered one of the various "listings" as a quality rating, only in regards to safety. I've noticed some of the less expensive brands sold by Home Depot only carry a FCC listing, some ETL, and some UL or several.
I'm sure Amazon sells a shit-ton that carry no listing of any kind. I know they carry a lot that use the same product images and only the company name changes.
What, you climbing out of your truck and moonlighting ?

 

[highvoltagehands]

Are you judging a fixture's quality based on the company's willingness or ability to spend the money to obtain a UL safety listing ?
What about an ETL Listing vs UL ?
I've honestly never actually considered one of the various "listings" as a quality rating, only in regards to safety. I've noticed some of the less expensive brands sold by Home Depot only carry a FCC listing, some ETL, and some UL or several.
I'm sure Amazon sells a shit-ton that carry no listing of any kind. I know they carry a lot that use the same product images and only the company name changes.
What, you climbing out of your truck and moonlighting ?

Hey Taboma,
I’m pretty sure you know all this but I’ll throw it out there anyway. UL is a safety certification and safety and quality go hand and hand As it takes and certain level of quality to be safe. Thats not to say a good product has be UL listed, but A company that builds good quality safe products and invests the time and money to have that product UL listed will use that UL listing to differentiate it’s products from lesser quality/less safe products. ETL listing is good but it‘s UK owned and not the level of UL. ETL doesn’t develop testing standards, they use UL‘s and other companies testing standards. I think FCC certifies things with radio/audio waves. Amazon sells some great products, but also sells a ton of shit products. Not every thing needs to be UL tested and to some quality doesn’t matter just low cost which is fine for them.
My personal experience was 10 years ago I bought a bunch of 25k hr rated LED lamps for my recess lights. After about 5 years some of the lamps started failing in hallways and bathrooms, and by 10 years all had been replaced. I noticed none of my kitchen lamps which were different had failed, so I looked at packages of unused lamps and kitchen lamps were UL listed and other were not. I replaced my outside motion detector twice in 5-6 year period then bought UL listed fixture and still works almost 10 years later. So now I look for UL listing on things that can start fires.
And no I’m not moonlighting lol, The only reason I mentioned UL was LOF mounted a light on his trailer thats going take a lot of abuse running down the road Those fixtures need to be a higher quality to last And so he did good.

 

[Taboma]

Hey Taboma,
I’m pretty sure you know all this but I’ll throw it out there anyway. UL is a safety certification and safety and quality go hand and hand As it takes and certain level of quality to be safe. Thats not to say a good product has be UL listed, but A company that builds good quality safe products and invests the time and money to have that product UL listed will use that UL listing to differentiate it’s products from lesser quality/less safe products. ETL listing is good but it‘s UK owned and not the level of UL. ETL doesn’t develop testing standards, they use UL‘s and other companies testing standards. I think FCC certifies things with radio/audio waves. Amazon sells some great products, but also sells a ton of shit products. Not every thing needs to be UL tested and to some quality doesn’t matter just low cost which is fine for them.
My personal experience was 10 years ago I bought a bunch of 25k hr rated LED lamps for my recess lights. After about 5 years some of the lamps started failing in hallways and bathrooms, and by 10 years all had been replaced. I noticed none of my kitchen lamps which were different had failed, so I looked at packages of unused lamps and kitchen lamps were UL listed and other were not. I replaced my outside motion detector twice in 5-6 year period then bought UL listed fixture and still works almost 10 years later. So now I look for UL listing on things that can start fires.
And no I’m not moonlighting lol, The only reason I mentioned UL was LOF mounted a light on his trailer thats going take a lot of abuse running down the road Those fixtures need to be a higher quality to last And so he did good.

You could have just responded with a "Yes" And for the record, I certainly agree with your logic.

My son "The Contractor" calls ole retired dad and amuses me with stories and pictures of the amazing things they're doing with LEDs and shares the stories of quirks and WTF's even the best LEDS can cause.

You'd listed so many LEDs you were swapping out, I'd just assumed you were picking up some beer bucks from the neighbors --- Opps

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Lets see it on....

I will take a pic tonight. Bringing the trailer back to storage tomorrow.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Lets see it on....

These lights are perfect. Plenty bright to work on a car or hang out at camp. I’m glad I didn’t go with any more wattage for these LEDs.

And now that I have the trailer dialed in and mostly cleaned up, here are a couple of the inside with the lights on

 

[highvoltagehands]

Thats a pretty sweet, clean looking unit.

 

[LHC Kirby]

These lights are perfect. Plenty bright to work on a car or hang out at camp. I’m glad I didn’t go with any more wattage for these LEDs.
And now that I have the trailer dialed in and mostly cleaned up, here are a couple of the inside with the lights on

Do you loan it out like Dave loans his trailer .... asking for a friend

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Thats a pretty sweet, clean looking unit.

Thanks. The guy set it up as a camping trailer for use with Jeep.. but never even put the Jeep in it or camped in it. He used it for his RZR and kid’s dirt bikes. I figure it will work well for the car racing I do, and for day trips to the desert or camping where there are bath/shower facilities (many racetracks and state parks).

Main reason for wanting the LED external lights is so that I could cook with my electric Blackstone (or use a power tool, etc.) while keeping the lights on with my 2000 watt generator. The old halogens would eat up half my generator capacity.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Do you loan it out like Dave loans his trailer .... asking for a friend

Somehow I misplaced the sign out sheet..