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What would be causing this??

RiverDave

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I would clean real well and then add a grounding strap to each side as stated to keep the anodes working on all, then if that cures the issue next fall strip the rear and recoat all. It’s definitely more common with powdercoat than anodizing, but it’s mostly in the prep. If that is a direct from Eddie color i would honestly look to them and see what they say, they could’ve had a bad batch of powder or possibly no idea about it but just may help you out a little on the recoat. I do know that MIW charges basically 50% to strip and recoat a product. So if steps are 500$ new it’ll be 250$ for the strip and coat, but it is an entailed process, strip polish then recoat.
uf there is an electrolysis problem it will demolish anodizing as well. I have had it happen to me several times in the past and have always had anodizing instead of PC

That all said it being an outboard I’d have a hard time believing the problem is with the boat. I’d bet it’s with where it was parked for some amount of time.
Just clean it off and see what happens next.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Shitty prep job on the powder would be my guess. If you have them re-powdered. Make sure who ever does it does a chemical strip dont let them blast them. If they blast them you will end up with erosion spots that will look like shit. Also request PRISMATIC powder it seems to adhere and hold up the best especially in water.. jmo
 

CobraDave

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I’m glad you started this thread!!!! On my 22 it is doing the same exact thing! It’s pretty hard and can’t be cleaned off. It was making me crazy and I couldn’t figure out why it was there. I was thinking a Ram was leaking and lube was crusting up or towing and it is feom debris kicking up.

So how is it cleaned off and what is the remedy?


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LargeOrangeFont

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I’m glad you started this thread!!!! On my 22 it is doing the same exact thing! It’s pretty hard and can’t be cleaned off. It was making me crazy and I couldn’t figure out why it was there. I was thinking a Ram was leaking and lube was crusting up or towing and it is feom debris kicking up.

So how is it cleaned off and what is the remedy?


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Do you guys have the correct anodes? I believe Magnesium is best for freshwater.
 

CobraDave

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On mine it is mostly on the support brackets of both swim steps.


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SOCALCRICKETT

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2 boats, same era, same problem only one being an outboard and one being a stern, wonder what the common denominator is.

Are both boats DTS controls?

Both boats smartcraft gauges?

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CobraDave

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It’s not powder coated related. It is a hard substance on top of the coating. Anything that might be used to scrub it off is gonna damage the powder coat.


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OldSchoolBoats

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2 boats, same era, same problem only one being an outboard and one being a stern, wonder what the common denominator is.

Are both boats DTS controls?

Both boats smartcraft gauges?

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Mine is DTS.

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SOCALCRICKETT

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My thought is this, if both boats have similar rigging, and are both having corrosion issues but are used on 2 separate waterways it may have something to do with the righing/electronics. I think dave uses his boat on canyon lake right?

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CobraDave

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My thought is this, if both boats have similar rigging, and are both having corrosion issues but are used on 2 separate waterways it may have something to do with the righing/electronics. I think dave uses his boat on canyon lake right?

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The owner SBarry used to have it on Canyon Lake prior to me owning it. I only use it on Havasu. It was present when I got it. It hasn’t really gotten any worse the year I have had it.


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CobraDave

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I also only have a retractable step on one side but the crap is on both sides.


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Carlson-jet

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Without seeing the specs of the materials used , aluminum comes in so many flavors with all having different properties and price points this is all guess work.
It would not surprise me if the top platform was not the same material as the supports. Seeing the tie-down washers corroding just adds to the mystery.
 

HST4ME

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Where ever you see the fuzz, the coating is damaged or porous. Poor materials,improper coating, electrolysis, water quality and if the marina it was kept at had polarity issues all come into play.
 

Boat Doctor

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Clean it off, run a wire from your swim step bracket bolts (looks like you need some on your transom u bolts as well) inside the boat to your drive bracket "bonding" them together. that way your anodes on your drive get bonded to the rest of your metal parts that are touching the water. otherwise everything needs a separate anode.

galvanic corrosion will eat the easiest metal it can find, which is why zinc anodes are used. they're soft (technically releasing their electrons easier than other metals) and sacrificial to prevent corrosion to the good metals you want to keep.
What he said.
 

69hondo

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Joe I had billet steps on my 207 and if the boat stayed in the water for any amount of time I would get the same thing happening. If it came out of the water everyday it didnt get the electrolysis. I just wiped them clean and kept on boating. Clean them up and run it.
 

Tamalewagon

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I didn't know you went back to the outboard Joe. Nice! We're thinking of doing the same thing...back to grassroots. Let's see a photo.
 

OldSchoolBoats

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Whoa! Beauty! I am missing my OB. Thinking about putting the Tamalewagon up for sale this year. Just can't find an open bow low profile OB that fits.
The 25 foot Interceptor with an OB was my other choice. Really good all around boat and a good price point. We really wanted the small deck boat though.

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OldSchoolBoats

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Let me know when you are gonna run it, i can bring a bunch of props.
First 3 on my list are a 25 REV4, 26B1 and 28B1.

I don't know much about what else is out there that works with these. Maybe a 5 blade?

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jetboatperformance

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Was once told a sophisticated electrical tester could show current flow from your boat (metal) to the water ?
 

robby dmax

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I had my steps Re-powder coated by Eddie Marine I would never use them again.. I would use a local guy to me(Andrews powder coating in Canoga Park) if I was to do it again.
 

throttle

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are there any anodes (maybe replace) on the transom? Any other pieces effected?

I would start at Eddie Marine for a refresh on both of those steps and hopefully the new anodes handle the rest.
 

OldSchoolBoats

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Makes all the difference in the world! Mine was way too cramped. The OB is the only way to go on the 22’s, IMO
There is a ton of room. Part of me wishes the L part wasn't there, but it will be very useful when the kids are doing water sports.

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DrunkenSailor

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I would give hill marine a call for the prop. You could afford new lifelines for most of the family with the price difference over the merc cleavers.
 

OldSchoolBoats

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I would give hill marine a call for the prop. You could afford new lifelines for most of the family with the price difference over the merc cleavers.
Definitely won't be running a cleaver since we will be doing a lot of water sports. I have a couple in mind that we are going to try and then I am going to keep 2, maybe 3 props to change out depending on what we are doing that day. Heard from a few people that the 400's like 5 blades. Current prop is a 23 Rev4. Want to try a 25 Rev4 and 26 B1.

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Runs2rch

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Definitely won't be running a cleaver since we will be doing a lot of water sports. I have a couple in mind that we are going to try and then I am going to keep 2, maybe 3 props to change out depending on what we are doing that day. Heard from a few people that the 400's like 5 blades. Current prop is a 23 Rev4. Want to try a 25 Rev4 and 26 B1.

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Mercury max 5 would be the 5 blade to try.
 

Go-Fly

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The second you put two dissimilar metals into the water you start electrolysis. Stray currents will accelerate the problem that already exist. I'd be willing to say 99% of the problems are incorrect bonding and anoides. Mother Nature is going to move metal from one spot to another. You either direct it or let her take it from you.
 

02HoWaRd26

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It’s not powder coated related. It is a hard substance on top of the coating. Anything that might be used to scrub it off is gonna damage the powder coat.


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If you’re near San Diego area I’d suggest trying the SC-14 (from Scott at FireETC) clean it binds to the material rather than attacking it would be the best bet imho. I use on my engine compartment as well on my buggy and it’s the first and only thing I’ve found that cleans, however does not affect what you’re using it on “ie anodize on shocks and boat parts etc”
7B604FD5-5409-434A-94F1-E77CB643C336.jpeg

Boss actually just got me some today 😁
 

02HoWaRd26

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Definitely won't be running a cleaver since we will be doing a lot of water sports. I have a couple in mind that we are going to try and then I am going to keep 2, maybe 3 props to change out depending on what we are doing that day. Heard from a few people that the 400's like 5 blades. Current prop is a 23 Rev4. Want to try a 25 Rev4 and 26 B1.

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If i recall correctly you are near the beach city’s, may be worth a shot to go talk to Auggie at Cutting Edge about some wheels. I know he was out playing with some ob’s last time he was in Havasu and has all different size and shape props 4&5 blade I’d be willing to bet with a cash deposit he’d let you take two or three with you for a weekend. But if you do please pm me lol i am needing one picked up and one taken back to him lol.
 
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