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What would you do? Chevrolet Silverado

yz450mm

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Anyone have a good mechanic in the Irvine area, so I can get a second opinion?
I think your best move is to go get your truck and get it to your house, then go from there. Pull the dipstick, let us know what you see. Drain the oil, pull the oil filter, cut it in half and again let us know what you see.

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Subadvantage

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Engine replacement cost you ask?? I just paid $7,200 to have the dealer slap in a new GM 5.3 motor into my 2013 Suburban (lots of freeway miles). Not my first choice, but I just replaced the trans 6 months prior. Now I have a completely new drivetrain. Good news...………..the engine comes with a 100,000 mile, no time limit warranty, includes parts AND labor (as does the GM trans, but for 5 years only).
 

Looking Glass

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Engine replacement cost you ask?? I just paid $7,200 to have the dealer slap in a new GM 5.3 motor into my 2013 Suburban (lots of freeway miles). Not my first choice, but I just replaced the trans 6 months prior. Now I have a completely new drivetrain. Good news...………..the engine comes with a 100,000 mile, no time limit warranty, includes parts AND labor (as does the GM trans, but for 5 years only).

Compared to a New $70,000.00 + Suburban shoould feel just fine.
 

02HoWaRd26

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In California i think doing a swap is a little more work because emissions, but if it was me I’d go buy a new short block, 1500-1800$ then a cam and try finding some 243 or 799 heads then toss it together. Then get it tuned, you’ll make an easy 375-410hp which really just equates decent mpg once you stop enjoying the extra power.
But I’m sure your heads and top end are gtg so still a fresh short block then have existing heads cleaned up you should be ok with the smog nazi’s
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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I’m a bean counter, there is no way I’d have the time or the skill to do this stuff myself. Oil change, fine. Dropping in a new engine? No way in hell.
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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Engine replacement cost you ask?? I just paid $7,200 to have the dealer slap in a new GM 5.3 motor into my 2013 Suburban (lots of freeway miles). Not my first choice, but I just replaced the trans 6 months prior. Now I have a completely new drivetrain. Good news...………..the engine comes with a 100,000 mile, no time limit warranty, includes parts AND labor (as does the GM trans, but for 5 years only).
Ouch. I don’t even think my truck is worth $7k, running....
 

Ricks raft

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As said. Normally Ls motors should be good for at least 200k. Even with lifter noise they usually keep going.
On my 07 6.0 at about 225k oil pressure started fluctuating at cruising speed, at 235k started having low oil pressure when cold first start, rev up then ok. Replaced oil pick up, oil pump, timing chain. Under $100 In parts. About 3-4 hrs. At 247k now going strong.

Edit: I've always ran synthetic oil, with pan off bottom end looked like new. No sludge, not even discolored, couldnt see any difference from old to new timing chain and gears.
 
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Backlash

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Give these guys a call and see what they can do for you if you decide to swap motors. I haven't personally dealt with them, but plan to in the future for one of my trucks. I screenshot the ad some time ago but they are still advertising on CL.

Screenshot_20181023-114157_Chrome.jpg
 

rush1

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LS engines are famous for the o ring on the oil pick up tube splitting and suckling air giving you low oil pressure, the oring comes in the fell pro oil pan gasket kit for 30 bucks, that's all that's wrong with the engine I guarantee it, I would be amazed if the engine was bad I've never seen an LS go bad at that low of milage
 

rush1

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Rebuild it, delete the AFM DOD bullshit, TSP cam, heads, long tubes, and a tune, 450 hp and you’ll be in love with your truck again. I actually posted something about this last night as as a delete and cam swap will prevent what probably caused your premature failure. Been following a guy on Instagram and thinking about doing this to my 14. Anyone on the boards here have a recommendation on this type of work
Big bore on the board here does it
 

Carlson-jet

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I'm cheap. New oil pump, cam, lifters and have the Injectors rebuilt or replaced while it is down.
Should buy 50 to 75k. miles +.
Pulling a main cap and a few rod caps will let you know the rest of the story before any more money is spent.
 

Boozer

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There’s lot of great advice in this thread.

If you’re happy with your truck and see yourself driving it for years to come a second opinion wouldn’t hurt. If you you can get it fixed for a price you consider reasonable why not go that route? I’m not sure what a new motor costs but I know a 2008 Silverado in good condition with a crap ton of miles can still fetch over $10K.

If the numbers don’t pencil out it might be worth buying something cheap to run around in temporarily and wait for the current crisis to pan out. There are insane deals being offered on new trucks right now and we’re only a few weeks into this thing. I think it’s safe to assume those deals aren’t going anywhere anytime soon and will likely get better before they are gone.


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Xtrmwakeboarder

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OP where are you located?
Irvine, CA

@Bigbore500r any suggestions on where to take this thing?

If the economy was still cranking I’d move on to something with 4WD, but it’s not, and for the first time in my life I’m worried about my job. We aren’t hurting yet, but a company won’t last if we go on a total lockdown and we can’t ship product. Before this ordeal we were house shopping, and the plan was to get into a house and get settled before I pulled the trigger on a truck in a few years. We had the same plan for my wife’s car, but she totaled it so we had to move up the timeframe for her.
 

ChiliPepperGarage

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Irvine, CA

@Bigbore500r any suggestions on where to take this thing?

If the economy was still cranking I’d move on to something with 4WD, but it’s not, and for the first time in my life I’m worried about my job. We aren’t hurting yet, but a company won’t last if we go on a total lockdown and we can’t ship product. Before this ordeal we were house shopping, and the plan was to get into a house and get settled before I pulled the trigger on a truck in a few years. We had the same plan for my wife’s car, but she totaled it so we had to move up the timeframe for her.

This thread cracks me up. So many RDPers talk about living debt free or how they want to pay down as much as possible then turn around and recommend that you get yourself into $40K+ worth of debt on a depreciating asset.
You're smart to think conservatively, especially now.
 

JM21

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Big bore on the board here does it

Are people doing this in California and passing smog? I have an 07 Silverado with a 5.3 and 230k miles. I want to do exactly this but can’t even get the parts shipped to this fucking state let alone pass smog when its done.


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Backlash

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Too bad you dont know anyone with an AZ mailing address! 😉 I'm waiting to see what the experts say about this exact topic too.
 

JM21

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I have a Utah address I can use?


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Bigbore500r

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Irvine, CA

@Bigbore500r any suggestions on where to take this thing?

If the economy was still cranking I’d move on to something with 4WD, but it’s not, and for the first time in my life I’m worried about my job. We aren’t hurting yet, but a company won’t last if we go on a total lockdown and we can’t ship product. Before this ordeal we were house shopping, and the plan was to get into a house and get settled before I pulled the trigger on a truck in a few years. We had the same plan for my wife’s car, but she totaled it so we had to move up the timeframe for her.

Call me, I’ll PM you my number
 

mjc

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I have a Utah address I can use?


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DMV form 256a statement of facts. Tell them it is located out of state and doesn't need smog. As long as you don't get a ticket in it you are good. I did one of my trucks for 20 years that way.
 

rush1

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Are people doing this in California and passing smog? I have an 07 Silverado with a 5.3 and 230k miles. I want to do exactly this but can’t even get the parts shipped to this fucking state let alone pass smog when its done.


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As far as I know yes ,as long as you don't have a check engine light on and all of the computer monitor are off you'll pass smog
 

Rsqfxr

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I had a friends yukon, same deal low oil light but zero noise, verified with a pressure gauge low oil pressure at the sensor, 05’s did not have the screen, dropped the pan anyway and did the o-ring, same, decided to get oil pressure at the filter, pressure was good, shit ended up being a cam bearing slid over, replaced engine with a used one from a wrecking yard, some of these issues are weird, my personal yukon with the 6.0 has like 300k on it


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Xtrmwakeboarder

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Big thanks to the RDP family on this one. I spoke to Bigbore on the phone, and he was extremely helpful. I really appreciate all the help from everyone.

Plan of attack is as follows:
1. I've ordered a sample test kit to send to Blackstone labs
2. Concurrently, I will drive the truck to another mechanic to confirm the diagnosis
3. The first mechanic came back with $7,268 for an engine with 90k miles on it and $8,312 for a reman. I can do better, but if it's anywhere near that I'll figure out a way to unload this thing.
4. I've started searching for used/reliable transportation I could pay cash for or something new that has a small payment. It won't be what I was looking at before all of this, but it will have to hold me over for a few years. "CPO GX460, late model Tacoma, maybe even a....... Subaru Outback"

Thanks all!

David
 

Mcob25rg

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You can replace and have a better rig for less than 1 years payment - won’t be a baller, but the sleep quality is AWESOME
 

pronstar

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3. The first mechanic came back with $7,268 for an engine with 90k miles on it and $8,312 for a reman. I can do better, but if it's anywhere near that I'll figure out a way to unload this thing.

Let’s see...that takeout motor with 90k on it can be had for less than a grand, but let’s round it up to $1k.

That means he wants $6200 in labor to do the swap.

Did you sleep with his girl or something?
That’s insane!


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ChumpChange

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So the engine is garbage but how about the rest of the truck? Worth keeping?
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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Let’s see...that takeout motor with 90k on it can be had for less than a grand, but let’s round it up to $1k.

That means he wants $6200 in labor to do the swap.

Did you sleep with his girl or something?
That’s insane!


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Lmao no. Maybe they’re trying to make up the lost business. It’s Irvine and most people just pay what they’re invoiced.
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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So the engine is garbage but how about the rest of the truck? Worth keeping?
Yep. It’s in good condition. That’s what blows my mind about this. Ran into a guy that had the exact same truck and it was beat to shit...but had well over 200k miles on it. Luck of the draw.
 

robby dmax

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Have you called around to any of the chevy dealers to check yourself on the Pricing of the motor new vs Remanufactured
You may also have them check on the price from the performance catalog on a brand new 5.3!
I put in a 5.3ho from the catalog in a few years back and it was cheaper than a Remanufactured and it was new and it came with all new sensors and a brand new water pump.
Doesn’t come with the 3year 100 Thousand mile warranty it only comes with a two-year 50,000 did it in the driveway done in a weekend.
I would shop all the dealers and see who wants to sell
 

Bigbore500r

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Big thanks to the RDP family on this one. I spoke to Bigbore on the phone, and he was extremely helpful. I really appreciate all the help from everyone.

Plan of attack is as follows:
1. I've ordered a sample test kit to send to Blackstone labs
2. Concurrently, I will drive the truck to another mechanic to confirm the diagnosis
3. The first mechanic came back with $7,268 for an engine with 90k miles on it and $8,312 for a reman. I can do better, but if it's anywhere near that I'll figure out a way to unload this thing.
4. I've started searching for used/reliable transportation I could pay cash for or something new that has a small payment. It won't be what I was looking at before all of this, but it will have to hold me over for a few years. "CPO GX460, late model Tacoma, maybe even a....... Subaru Outback"

Thanks all!

David
Hold on...don’t drive it around without oil pressure! Tow it if needed!
 

Universal Elements

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I wouldn’t let anyone in that repair center touch my vehicles. You are correct, people in Irvine just pay whatever they are told and never even question it. Plus, the rent that most businesses pay is Astronomical so they have to pass it along. I do all my own repairs. But, if you want a decent & honest people who won’t rip you off, call Ramiro or Junior and tell them what’s going on. Look them up on Yelp or Google.

Ortega's Auto Repair

2911 Oak St, Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 979-2971

ortegasautorepair.com
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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I wouldn’t let anyone in that repair center touch my vehicles. You are correct, people in Irvine just pay whatever they are told and never even question it. Plus, the rent that most businesses pay is Astronomical so they have to pass it along. I do all my own repairs. But, if you want a decent & honest people who won’t rip you off, call Ramiro or Junior and tell them what’s going on. Look them up on Yelp or Google.

Ortega's Auto Repair

2911 Oak St, Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 979-2971

ortegasautorepair.com
Thanks for the reference. I already dropped it off, but if I don’t like what I see then I give them a ring.
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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So, I picked up the truck at lunch and drove it 300’ to the other garage. Oil pressure was fine, and the dash wasn’t screaming at me other than a check engine light.

I pulled my records and it looks like I did the Oil pressure sending unit a year ago, and the Cam Position Sensor in October. I’ll have to check back on total elapsed miles. I guess I mixed those repairs up. When looking at the paperwork, the mech did note if the oil pressure sending unit didn’t work there was something wrong with the engine, so I have to take back not being notified.

I spoke to the owner of the shop, and he said he could do an engine for $4,500. I questioned it since I was quoted $7,200-$8,300 the day before from his guys and he changed it to $5kish....

I shot a vid with my phone, not very good, but I can’t hear ticking.
 

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Instigator

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I would have a Mechanical Gauge put in a tee to verify what the oil pressure actually is and compare it to whatever source is telling you that the oil pressure is low. Could be nothing more than a small electrical problem with a wire shorting out and giving a false reading. I just went through this very thing on my brothers car.
3 different shops quoted him anywhere from 4500.00 to 6000.00 to rebuild or replace the engine.
The actual fix cost less than $ 1.00 after I found a rubbed wire harness that was shorting out when it got hot due to A/C condensation drain or wet from rain.
Like most things in life, don't believe what everyone tells you until you can know for sure yourself. Mechanical gauges usually don't lie which is why I would use both at the same source and compare them to each other.
You might just be surprised what you find out but at least you will know for sure whether it actually has low oil pressure or not.
Just my 2 cents.
 

Carrera205

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I had a 2010 Silverado with a 5.3 that had a ticking noise.Drove it to Parker and the oil pressure went to zero a mile from the house.A friend was coming the next day and brought me his car trailer. It had 163k miles .Same situation what do I do? Took it to Brothers auto In Ontario and first thing they said was the 5.3 s had bad cams and as they flatten out they the put a hole thru the bottom of the lifters hence the oil pressure problem .I went ahead and had them rebuild it for $3500 and drove it another 30k miles. Then the radiator went bad and since I drive to the river all the time and I didn’t trust it any longer I bought a new one! I still have the old one and was just getting ready to sell when theCorona crap hit. I like the new one but I don’t like the payment! Tough decision
I had a 2010 go out on me as well on the way home from havasu. Lost a lifter and destroyed the cam. These were the AFM motors so and were known for it.
 

Bigbore500r

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Here is what we discussed

His previous mechanic had already done the oil sending unit and also replaced the problematic screen that is below the sending unit, which gets clogged and blocks the lifters from getting oil, and also causes the sending unit to show a loss of oil pressure. Apparently the mechanic is saying the screen is clogged again, with metal. If so, that would indicate that something in the motor is coming apart. To verify, i told him to drain a little oil and send it to blackstone labs for a UOA (Used Oil Analysis). They will confirm or deny if there is metal in the oil, and if there is , they will be able to tell you what type it is, and what componet(s) it is likely to have come from.

If the UOA from blackstone comes back "clean", here was the plan
  1. Check screen again and make sure it is clean.
  2. Drop oil pan and change oil pump and o-ring.
It is not abnormal to lose an oil pump on these high mileage 5.3's, and it is a pretty easy fix, especially in a 2wd pickup. My friend's truck just lost one at 208,000 miles. Same symptoms as OP. New oil pump has him back on the road.

It may not be dead....it may just need some investigating, by a mechanic who isn't eyeing his bottom line as your best interest! Its easy to sell somebody a crate motor with 30-50% markup and 8 hours of labor.... :mad:
 

Bigbore500r

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I would have a Mechanical Gauge put in a tee to verify what the oil pressure actually is and compare it to whatever source is telling you that the oil pressure is low. Could be nothing more than a small electrical problem with a wire shorting out and giving a false reading. I just went through this very thing on my brothers car.
3 different shops quoted him anywhere from 4500.00 to 6000.00 to rebuild or replace the engine.
The actual fix cost less than $ 1.00 after I found a rubbed wire harness that was shorting out when it got hot due to A/C condensation drain or wet from rain.
Like most things in life, don't believe what everyone tells you until you can know for sure yourself. Mechanical gauges usually don't lie which is why I would use both at the same source and compare them to each other.
You might just be surprised what you find out but at least you will know for sure whether it actually has low oil pressure or not.
Just my 2 cents.
This is also an excellent idea. Mechanical gauge #1 before you go any further, verify it actually has low oil pressure! They sell a 16mm mechanical gauge adapter with O-ring seal that replaces the sending unit behind the intake, it is available from summit for $12.00 from Autometer
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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Mechanic 2 took a look

1. Does not have any ticking or knocking, which means it's getting some oil
2. Replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor for free
3. The mechanical gauge shows low oil pressure, down to 5psi at times
4. The screen below the sensor did not look clogged up as stated by the previous mechanic
5. No mention of metal shavings in the oil

Unfortunately, he doesn't go any further than this so I'm taking it to his recommended shop a few miles away. They will drop the oil pan, check the pump, o-ring, etc.
 

lbhsbz

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Mechanic 2 took a look

1. Does not have any ticking or knocking, which means it's getting some oil
2. Replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor for free
3. The mechanical gauge shows low oil pressure, down to 5psi at times
4. The screen below the sensor did not look clogged up as stated by the previous mechanic
5. No mention of metal shavings in the oil

Unfortunately, he doesn't go any further than this so I'm taking it to his recommended shop a few miles away. They will drop the oil pan, check the pump, o-ring, etc.

Fuck...is this shop #3 now? Just tow it to my place in Long Beach....I'll diagnose it and fix it without sending you down the road again. If it needs an engine, $1000 labor plus parts. CV special rate. Seems as if you've found a bunch of primadona shops that are scared to commit to an incompetent diagnosis.
 

Bigbore500r

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Mechanic 2 took a look

1. Does not have any ticking or knocking, which means it's getting some oil
2. Replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor for free
3. The mechanical gauge shows low oil pressure, down to 5psi at times
4. The screen below the sensor did not look clogged up as stated by the previous mechanic
5. No mention of metal shavings in the oil

Unfortunately, he doesn't go any further than this so I'm taking it to his recommended shop a few miles away. They will drop the oil pan, check the pump, o-ring, etc.

Automatically have them install a new pump and O-ring. Less than $100 of parts. Since the front timing cover has to come off, do a $45 timing chain while your in there......it’s only 3 bolts and you have the oil pump out of the way already during R&R.
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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Fuck...is this shop #3 now? Just tow it to my place in Long Beach....I'll diagnose it and fix it without sending you down the road again. If it needs an engine, $1000 labor plus parts. CV special rate. Seems as if you've found a bunch of primadona shops that are scared to commit to an incompetent diagnosis.
LOL yes. It's a good thing I am working from home for the foreseeable future.
 

Xtrmwakeboarder

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Automatically have them install a new pump and O-ring. Less than $100 of parts. Since the front timing cover has to come off, do a $45 timing chain while your in there......it’s only 3 bolts and you have the oil pump out of the way already during R&R.
Roger that. Will do
 

BajaMike

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Those GM trucks, from the years Obama took over GM, have small engines that don’t last long. My 2001 Chev 2500 HD crew cab with the 6.0 has almost 300k miles, original engine, does not leak or burn a drop of oil.

good deals on the new trucks...but they are still Obama Trucks, and won’t last.
 

lbhsbz

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Automatically have them install a new pump and O-ring. Less than $100 of parts. Since the front timing cover has to come off, do a $45 timing chain while your in there......it’s only 3 bolts and you have the oil pump out of the way already during R&R.
Those GM trucks, from the years Obama took over GM, have small engines that don’t last long. My 2001 Chev 2500 HD crew cab with the 6.0 has almost 300k miles, original engine, does not leak or burn a drop of oil.

good deals on the new trucks...but they are still Obama Trucks, and won’t last.
Obama had nothing to do with GM’s incompetence.... even though I disliked the guy.
I have the same shitbox 6.0 gasser in my truck that I just spent way to much time fixing oil leaks on....and fuck that engineer who decided to bolt the vent to the top most stud on the bellhousing. I’ll fight him.
 

Bigbore500r

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Obama had nothing to do with GM’s incompetence.... even though I disliked the guy.
I have the same shitbox 6.0 gasser in my truck that I just spent way to much time fixing oil leaks on....and fuck that engineer who decided to bolt the vent to the top most stud on the bellhousing. I’ll fight him.
How many miles on your shitbox 6.0? lots of 300k motors out there, some running turbos ;)
 
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