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Who is the member that is a Gear Vendor dealer?

PaPaG

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Hello, looking into a gear vendor now that I have a specific rig I want to ad it to. I thought it was bonesfab but I cannot seem to find the posts where the member mentions that they are a vendor.. Any thoughts?
 

mash on it

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Post #20

Dan'l
 

PaPaG

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That was me. What are you looking for?
Hello Bonesfab, you and I spoke a while ago, I sold the original truck I wanted to put one on and now have the truck I am going to be keeping, 2000 Ford F350 7.3 crew cab dually 4x4, has a built towing transmission, air bags, 5th wheel hitch set up for hauling. We had talked shortly about a gear vendor, what are your thoughts? When I am not going to be towing in the future I drive on a 75 to 80mph road back and forth from Vegas to AZ and the truck runs at 2500rpm at 80 and I feel uncomfortable driving it at that rpm on long trips, I think you had mentioned that it may cut down about 500 or so rpms plus give me more range in gears between stock along with that extra stretch on the top end. PM your number and I can call you and discuss details on if, when, how much to get this done etc...Thanks for reaching out and letting me know it was you.
 

bonesfab

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Hello Bonesfab, you and I spoke a while ago, I sold the original truck I wanted to put one on and now have the truck I am going to be keeping, 2000 Ford F350 7.3 crew cab dually 4x4, has a built towing transmission, air bags, 5th wheel hitch set up for hauling. We had talked shortly about a gear vendor, what are your thoughts? When I am not going to be towing in the future I drive on a 75 to 80mph road back and forth from Vegas to AZ and the truck runs at 2500rpm at 80 and I feel uncomfortable driving it at that rpm on long trips, I think you had mentioned that it may cut down about 500 or so rpms plus give me more range in gears between stock along with that extra stretch on the top end. PM your number and I can call you and discuss details on if, when, how much to get this done etc...Thanks for reaching out and letting me know it was you.

it is a 22% overdrive so about 5-600 rpm drop at that speed. The question is if the truck will pull that speed at the given rpm. The gear splitting is a plus. I have one in my bus behind a nv4500. I use the gear vendor when towing and keep the trans in 4th. It won’t pull the bus in double od unless you drive it like my dad at 90 plus mph.
 

PaPaG

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(PS SO I will drive faster lol) I think it would pull that extra speed due to the really high rpms it runs now at 80 (but I am no expert on the gear vendor and how it will make the truck perform), my excursion same engine drives great at 80 and at 1950rpm smooth as can be, if I can get the f350 to do the same I would be very happy.
 

PaPaG

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Lets talk during the day if you have time tomorrow and lets go from there if you are interested in doing it. Thanks. G.
 

PaPaG

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Changing to a taller tire would drop you rpm and be a lot cheaper
I just put a new set on there or that would be the next step. I have 235/85/16's on my stock Alcoa's, I have always loved the Alcoa style so I want to keep the rims so the largest I could go from my research was a 285 but I would have to get spacers and I don't want spacers. Truck has all the power I want or need with the banks setup, now I just need to get the RPMs down when traveling 80 and larger tires to achieve a 500rpm drop would take away a lot of low end.
 

Gelcoater

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Hello Bonesfab, you and I spoke a while ago, I sold the original truck I wanted to put one on and now have the truck I am going to be keeping, 2000 Ford F350 7.3 crew cab dually 4x4, has a built towing transmission, air bags, 5th wheel hitch set up for hauling. We had talked shortly about a gear vendor, what are your thoughts? When I am not going to be towing in the future I drive on a 75 to 80mph road back and forth from Vegas to AZ and the truck runs at 2500rpm at 80 and I feel uncomfortable driving it at that rpm on long trips, I think you had mentioned that it may cut down about 500 or so rpms plus give me more range in gears between stock along with that extra stretch on the top end. PM your number and I can call you and discuss details on if, when, how much to get this done etc...Thanks for reaching out and letting me know it was you.
Pretty much in the same boat with my Dodge.
@bonesfab
What’s your thought on a divorced mount unit where the center carrier bearing is now?
It seems less invasive of an instal vs off the transfer case to me?
 

bonesfab

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Pretty much in the same boat with my Dodge.
@bonesfab
What’s your thought on a divorced mount unit where the center carrier bearing is now?
It seems less invasive of an instal vs off the transfer case to me?

I have seen the remote mount ones but haven't used one. Mounting it and getting the angles right would be a concern. The install isn't really invasive. Remove yoke and tail housing and bolt on gearvendor. I have also seen where they will get the front section of drive shaft made. That way if the there are issues with the gear vendor, remove it and reinstall old drive shaft and back on the road.
 

PaPaG

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Bones, from what a buddy told me they remove the driveshaft carrier bearing is that correct or dose it keep it?
 

bonesfab

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Bones, from what a buddy told me they remove the driveshaft carrier bearing is that correct or dose it keep it?
Depends on the wheel base. Both of mine the carrier bearing stayed in place.
 

PaPaG

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Depends on the wheel base. Both of mine the carrier bearing stayed in place.
I have a longbed so I am guessing it would be staying. SO what part of the drive shaft has to be cut down front or rear section? I hate those bearings just another point of possible failure was hoping the GV would be eliminating it.
 

bonesfab

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The front section gets shortend roughly 18" off the top of my head. Or just have another made and keep the original like I said above.
 

mash on it

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Hello Bonesfab, you and I spoke a while ago, I sold the original truck I wanted to put one on and now have the truck I am going to be keeping, 2000 Ford F350 7.3 crew cab dually 4x4, has a built towing transmission, air bags, 5th wheel hitch set up for hauling. We had talked shortly about a gear vendor, what are your thoughts? When I am not going to be towing in the future I drive on a 75 to 80mph road back and forth from Vegas to AZ and the truck runs at 2500rpm at 80 and I feel uncomfortable driving it at that rpm on long trips, I think you had mentioned that it may cut down about 500 or so rpms plus give me more range in gears between stock along with that extra stretch on the top end. PM your number and I can call you and discuss details on if, when, how much to get this done etc...Thanks for reaching out and letting me know it was you.


4.10 gears?
E4OD Trans?
235/85R16 tires?

If so, right now you'd be at ~2450 @ 80
With the GV unit, with 0.78 od, you'd be at ~1910 @ 80.

For what it's worth, my cc 7.3 auto, with 3.55's is at ~2125 @ 80.

Dan'l
 

PaPaG

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4.10 gears?
E4OD Trans?
235/85R16 tires?

If so, right now you'd be at ~2450 @ 80
With the GV unit, with 0.78 od, you'd be at ~1910 @ 80.

For what it's worth, my cc 7.3 auto, with 3.55's is at ~2125 @ 80.

Dan'l
I dont think my truck has the E40D Trans, I am fairly sure it is the 4R100. I am going to triple check.
 

mash on it

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I dont think my truck has the E40D Trans, I am fairly sure it is the 4R100. I am going to triple check.

Basically the same... At least the gear ratios are.

Dan'l
 

rivermobster

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I love mine...

I can tow with it in double OD. But like Jim said, it's best to be going 80 plus. Easy to do once you're outside of CA. 😉

Splitting any gear towing makes quick work of any hill.

Not towing? Life is good anytime you wanna click it in. I have an old school dimmer switch on mine. 😎

37 inch tires and 4:56 gears.
 

4Waters

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1910 to 1980rpm at 80 would be great, I could keep up with traffic on some of the 75mph roads without stress of higher rpms.
7.3's ramp up the fuel curve at 1850 for boost, you can definitely tell a difference in mpg from 1800 and 1900. Before my GV exploded I set my cruise control at 1750-1800 rpms not speed.
 

PaPaG

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7.3's ramp up the fuel curve at 1850 for boost, you can definitely tell a difference in mpg from 1800 and 1900. Before my GV exploded I set my cruise control at 1750-1800 rpms not speed.
Good to know can help with the learning curve when I get it.
 

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I dont think my truck has the E40D Trans, I am fairly sure it is the 4R100. I am going to triple check.
You have a 4R100 and a 271 or 273 transfer case. If I remember correctly, you have to remove the factory rear housing from the transfer case and install the gear vendor housing in addition to the gear vendors setup.
 

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7.3's ramp up the fuel curve at 1850 for boost, you can definitely tell a difference in mpg from 1800 and 1900. Before my GV exploded I set my cruise control at 1750-1800 rpms not speed.
I dont have a GV but find this to be true with my 7.3s. If I keep it below 1800 rpm mileage can be 16-18 mpg. Above that, like 2200 rpm it can be 12-15 mpg. I know adding a shell, converting to 4wd, and cetane booster increases mileage.
 

spectra3279

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I've been thinking about one of these for my dodge. It's a 4x4 with the nv5600 and 3.73 gears. 75 I'm running about 22 to 23 hundred rpm. Way past its fuel milage rpm of below 1950

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

PaPaG

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I laugh at all the folks on the streets that think their pick up trucks are race cars or want them to act like race cars, If you want to go fast buy a fast car not a wanna be hot rod pickup truck....I have never and I MEAN NEVER EVER had an issue with towing, driving on the highway at speeds (except for the rpm), or just city street driving where I thought I needed more HP/Torque out of one of my stock 7.3's, and now that I am driving one with a banks kit and exhaust I cant ask for anymore for low and mid range driving or towing. Maybe I don't tow enough weight or just maybe I use it for exactly what it was made for, hauling stuff and towing stuff and not a race car lol...gear vendor will give me the best of both worlds for what I need that is for sure.
 
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sintax

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I laugh at all the folks on the streets that think their pick up trucks are race cars or want them to act like race cars, If you want to go fast but a fast car not a wanna be hot rod pickup truck....I have never and I MEAN NEVER EVER had an issue with towing, driving on the highway at speeds (except for the rpm), or just city street driving where I thought I needed more HP/Torque out of one of my stock 7.3's, and now that I am driving one with a banks kit and exhaust I cant ask for anymore for low and mid range driving or towing. Maybe I don't tow enough weight or just maybe I use it for exactly what it was made for, hauling stuff and towing stuff and not a race car lol...gear vendor will give me the best of both worlds for what I need that is for sure.

Some of us are blessed with some solid machines though, and I do enjoying catching people off guard.

Honestly there’s just something wrong about how quick some of these trucks are. My LBZ duramax with some undisclosed mods will put a hurting on a lot of stuff, esp if you’re not ready for it. I have done a few 4x4 boosted launches with it that are down right brutal. An 7800 lb truck shouldn’t launch that hard.

I have a bud with a compound turbo late model cummins that has hurt many an exotic car owners feelings

End of the day it’s about having fun, there’s always someone with a bigger dick or bigger bank account.
 

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I laugh at all the folks on the streets that think their pick up trucks are race cars or want them to act like race cars, If you want to go fast but a fast car not a wanna be hot rod pickup truck....I have never and I MEAN NEVER EVER had an issue with towing, driving on the highway at speeds (except for the rpm), or just city street driving where I thought I needed more HP/Torque out of one of my stock 7.3's, and now that I am driving one with a banks kit and exhaust I cant ask for anymore for low and mid range driving or towing. Maybe I don't tow enough weight or just maybe I use it for exactly what it was made for, hauling stuff and towing stuff and not a race car lol...gear vendor will give me the best of both worlds for what I need that is for sure.
If you want a good upgrade get a built transmission, if you don't have one already. It was the best mod I did to mine. Drivability is so much nicer. The other truck is still on the stock transmission and I know there is a bunch of power loss.
 

bonesfab

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So I will chime in on the mileage thing. My big truck has a mild built p-pump Cummins in it. Compound turbos, Hamilton cam, springs 50 over injectors and the rest of the usual minor mods. I have an Allison 5-speed, 4.56 and 37”tires. With this combo running across the dessert it got 17-18 mpg at 75-80 mph. It was spinning 2300-2500 rpm. I have tried 4.10 with it and it cruised nice but didn’t tow as well. How much better mileage would be possible if I had another gear and got the rpm down to 1900-2000? There is a point where they fall out of there happy place and mileage will be worse. Just my observation.
 

Mototrig

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Bones, from what a buddy told me they remove the driveshaft carrier bearing is that correct or dose it keep it?
I have a longbed so I am guessing it would be staying. SO what part of the drive shaft has to be cut down front or rear section? I hate those bearings just another point of possible failure was hoping the GV would be eliminating it.

PapaG for what it's worth:
I recently purchased from bonesfab a GV unit and installed it on my 4x4 7.3

Adapting to the NP-273 / NP-271 transfer case in your truck is relatively easy. Takes about an hour to swap out the OEM tail housing with the new adapter from GV. You'll be removing around 22 inches from your forward driveshaft.
I opted to have a new one piece driveshaft built ($400ish including u-jounts and bolt in yoke). In case I have to ever remove the GV I still have the 2 piece shaft and carrier ready to go back in.
Bonesfab had me lined up with what I needed pretty quick, good dude.
Granted all this in a shortbread, I'd talk to a driveshaft shop first to find out what they recommend for 1 piece or keeping the 2 piece and shortening the forward shaft.
PXL_20210324_233237163.jpg
 
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rivermobster

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PapaG for what it's worth:
I recently purchased from bonesfab a GV unit and installed it on my 4x4 7.3

Adapting to the NP-273 / NP-271 transfer case in your truck is relatively easy. Takes about an hour to swap out the OEM tail housing with the new adapter from GV. You'll be removing around 22 inches from your forward driveshaft.
I opted to have a new one piece driveshaft built ($400ish including u-jounts and bolt in yoke). In case I have to ever remove the GV I still have the 2 piece shaft and carrier ready to go back in.
Bonesfab had me lined up with what I needed pretty quick, good dude.
Granted all this in a shortbread, I'd talk to a driveshaft shop first to find out what they recommend for 1 piece or keeping the 2 piece and shortening the forward shaft.
View attachment 1034332

Is your truck lifted?

Mine is, and I hate it. I'm sick of the shudder on take off!

Im wondering if a one piece driveshaft would help?
 

Mototrig

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Is your truck lifted?

Mine is, and I hate it. I'm sick of the shudder on take off!

Im wondering if a one piece driveshaft would help?
Yes mine's lifted 9" on 37's and yes it shuttered on takeoff, drove me nuts. Now with the GV and 1 piece shaft the takeoff shutter is gone completely 😎.

FWIW before I bought the GV I dropped the carrier bearing a half inch with shims and the shutter reduced quite a bit.
 

ToMorrow44

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Is your truck lifted?

Mine is, and I hate it. I'm sick of the shudder on take off!

Im wondering if a one piece driveshaft would help?
On a previous F350 with 6” lift I had a shudder on takeoff that ended up being a bad carrier gearing. Replaced that and it was good to go, very smooth.
 

PaPaG

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If you want a good upgrade get a built transmission, if you don't have one already. It was the best mod I did to mine. Drivability is so much nicer. The other truck is still on the stock transmission and I know there is a bunch of power loss.
Thankfully I have a built transmission, I did not think I could tell the difference when driving but you positively can. I personally think that is one of F series weak points is the trans so an upgrade is a must for the higher mileage units again in my opinion and experience.
 

PaPaG

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PapaG for what it's worth:
I recently purchased from bonesfab a GV unit and installed it on my 4x4 7.3

Adapting to the NP-273 / NP-271 transfer case in your truck is relatively easy. Takes about an hour to swap out the OEM tail housing with the new adapter from GV. You'll be removing around 22 inches from your forward driveshaft.
I opted to have a new one piece driveshaft built ($400ish including u-jounts and bolt in yoke). In case I have to ever remove the GV I still have the 2 piece shaft and carrier ready to go back in.
Bonesfab had me lined up with what I needed pretty quick, good dude.
Granted all this in a shortbread, I'd talk to a driveshaft shop first to find out what they recommend for 1 piece or keeping the 2 piece and shortening the forward shaft.
View attachment 1034332
Great info, thanks.
 

PaPaG

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Is your truck lifted?

Mine is, and I hate it. I'm sick of the shudder on take off!

Im wondering if a one piece driveshaft would help?
Since I sold the 02 with 59k I pulled the shell of that one and put it on my 2000) Mine is stock height I was going to lift it but decided not to on the one I want for towing and driving possibly cross country on trips especially when I get a gearvendor.
20210805_083849.jpg
20210805_083906.jpg
 

rivermobster

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On a previous F350 with 6” lift I had a shudder on takeoff that ended up being a bad carrier gearing. Replaced that and it was good to go, very smooth.

I just replaced mine. Feels worse now! LoL

Stupid lifted trucks. I'm gonna lower it soon. It was all lifted when I bought it.

Current situation...

16282709812716564867330202444112.jpg
 

Willie B

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…Got a 97 dodge ram 12 valve Cummins which I’ve driven cross-country several times with an 11 foot Lance camper on it …410 gears …my four-wheel-drive truck probably gets around 12…
… when I first bought the truck I was in Oklahoma and myself and my girlfriend were on some freeway where we couldn’t get off for 30 miles and I hammered it …I can’t remember what the RPM was but probably going 85 miles an hour without the camper …girlfriend who has an IQ of 167 did the fuel mileage check and said it was getting 18 to 19 …never could figure that one out???…why the fuel mileage would go up when I was flogging it???…
88446FE3-55B5-453B-9E6F-62EA72E2C197.jpeg
 

Mototrig

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I just replaced mine. Feels worse now! LoL

Stupid lifted trucks. I'm gonna lower it soon. It was all lifted when I bought it.

Current situation...

View attachment 1034460
I bought mine lifted as well, would rather it be stock too. But that means I'd have to regear so it's staying on 37's.
I just switched to Deaver leafs in the rear, what a difference in ride quality.
 

ToMorrow44

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@bonesfab can you describe the process for gear splitting? I understand how the gear vendors works, but trying to envision actual operation. When it’s in first, you then manually engage the GV for first-over. When the trans shifts into 2nd, does the GV automatically disengage? Then manually engage again for 2nd-over?
 
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