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Wintertime Projects on the Jet Boat (Boating Content)

D19

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Make new transom plates that will be a little bit taller, thicker and have countersunk bolt holes. Main reason for this is I had to clearance out the opening for the bigger HD Dominator jet pump and there is not a lot of sealing service over the pump I don’t like having a gob a bunch of silicone in there.

Rather than use a nut on the back of the bulkhead fittings that feed the motor and innercooler, the new plates will be threaded to accept -8AN. This should make reinstallation a lot easier.

F3082997-2E8E-46B1-937E-D86C0BAB9194.jpeg
0433F3B2-CCD5-4E38-80FF-8CE8851094FC.jpeg


While the plates are off I will pull the jet off and have my impeller cut down. The boat is currently running a 9.5" impeller and I think it’s too big. I am also adding a Prime a jet to the bowl because the pump is very tight and takes a lot of time for water to fill it up after watching. I hate being in “that guy“ who takes forever on the ramp while I wait for my pump to prime.




Sucking oil out the dipstick completely sucks so I will be adding a valve off the back of my Dan Olson pan. The pan comes with a -10AN Female fitting on the rear of the pan that I will have run to a valve that a hose can be attached to then ran through the bilge drain into a bucket.
F15BBBEC-903A-475B-B686-7B3EF04DEDC9.jpeg
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Adding some trailer marker lights to the fenders so I can see the boaat night in my rearview mirrors. The fenders were originally fastened with self tapping bolts because I was in a hurry at the time, it is now being drilled and tapped for 7/16 bolts so the fenders will come on and off easily if needed.



All the marker lights were originally fastened with stainless screws and I think that was a little bit of a lame way to set it up so I will be drilling and tapping all the holes for 10/24 bolts. This will make disassembling the trailer a lot easier when I have it repainted next winter.

F4B99983-A011-4A0B-953F-A78F2B6F00DE.jpeg
2AA623EB-F4FB-4F2F-ACB0-695A91F13ED4.jpeg
 
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BigRedBryan

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I like the way your starter is mounted, very convenient for servicing it if needed.
 
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D19

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I like the way your starter is mounted, very convenient for servicing it if needed.

Thanks. After working on and building so many of these,I tried to keep “easy serviceability” the theme of this boat.

Here a shot just behind of the fuel pump that comes out with two threaded bolts and a connector. Pretty much every accessory was mounted with having to service it at the river in 100+ degrees in mind.
F75B7122-A427-4F4B-95B4-BF18615B046A.jpeg
 
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BigRedBryan

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Thanks. After working on and building so many of these,I tried to keep “easy serviceability” the theme of this boat.

Here a shot just behind of the fuel pump that comes out with two threaded bolts and a connector. Pretty much every accessory was mounted with having to service it at the river in 100+ degrees. View attachment 965083

Makes me kinda wish we had designed something like that on mine during all the work we've been doing on it. Oh well, always next round of upgrades. Haha
 
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poncho

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Make new transom plates that will be a little bit taller, thicker and have countersunk bolt holes. Main reason for this is I had to clearance out the opening for the bigger HD Dominator jet pump and there is not a lot of ceiling service over the pump I don’t like having a gob a bunch of silicone in there.

Rather than use a nut on the back of the bulkhead fittings that feed the motor and innercooler, the new plates will be threaded to accept -8AN. This should make reinstallation a lot easier.

View attachment 965027 View attachment 965028 View attachment 965029

While the plates are off I will pull the jet off and have my impeller cut down. The boat is currently running a double A stainless and I think it’s too big. I am also adding a Prime a jet to the bowl because the pump is very tight and takes a lot of time for water to fill it up after watching. I hate being in “that guy“ who takes forever on the ramp while I wait for my pump to prime.




Sucking oil out the dipstick completely sucks so I will be adding a valve off the back of my Dan Olson pan. The pan comes with a -10AN Female fitting on the rear of the pan that I will have run to a valve that a hose can be attached to then ran through the bilge drain into a bucket.
View attachment 965030 View attachment 965031


Adding some trailer marker lights to the fenders so I can see the boaat night in my rearview mirrors. The fenders were originally fastened with self tapping bolts because I was in a hurry at the time, it is now being drilled and tapped for 7/16 bolts so the fenders will come on and off easily if needed.



All the marker lights were originally fastened with stainless screws and I think that was a little bit of a lame way to set it up so I will be drilling and tapping all the holes for 10/24 bolts. This will make disassembling the trailer a lot easier when I have it repainted next winter.

View attachment 965032 View attachment 965033
Is that a Fragola brand shut off valve?.....I had problems with those leaking after one year at my fuel tanks and they were non serviceable.
 

D19

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Is that a Fragola brand shut off valve?.....I had problems with those leaking after one year at my fuel tanks and they were non serviceable.

Edlebrock. It has a plastic inner valve. It should work for what I’m using it for. It will have a AN cap on the end in case it opens or fails.
 

poncho

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Edlebrock. It has a plastic inner valve. It should work for what I’m using it for. It will have a AN cap on the end in case it opens or fails.
Mine would leak through the handle seal. Friend of mine is rigging his Cheyenne and trying to put everything through his transom plate, nice clean look. 👍
You have a nice boat...have fun.
 

D19

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Mine would leak through the handle seal. Friend of mine is rigging his Cheyenne and trying to put everything through his transom plate, nice clean look. 👍
You have a nice boat...have fun.


Nice. Everything through the plate looks cool. If I would have originally rigged the boat I may have done that. Thanks!
 

oldschool

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I used Peterson Fluid Systems valves on the fuel tanks on my Hallett. 10+ years and never a leak. Man your boat is clean. How does the dolly trailer tow? I’m thinking of converting the new to me flat trailer to a dolly.
 
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D19

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I used Peterson Fluid Systems valves on the fuel tanks on my Hallett. 10+ years and never a leak. Man your boat is clean. How does the dolly trailer tow? I’m thinking of converting the new to me flat trailer to a dolly.

Thank you. It tows very well. Much better then the road trailer and it makes working on the boat so much better with it being higher up and no fenders to lean over.
 

rush1

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That's a beautiful boat, very nice.👍
 
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D19

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A little progress.

Got the prime a jet installed. The entire time I wished I had my own knee mill so I could clamp it to a table. My wife had to push down on the bowl as I ran the tap. A little sketchy but it worked. I look forward to seeing how much this helps.

Dropped my impeller off at Place Diverter yesterday. Should be done today or Mon. I was running a 9.5” (AAA) and it was just too much impeller. I couldn’t get the RPM where I needed it. I wasn’t really sure where to start so I figured go big and cut down. We are going to try a A+.

Spent some time last night laying out the plates and there’s a jet ski part for my 550 on here I’ll make at the same time. Hopefully time permits me to start drilling then cutting this weekend.

04E9A9F0-4B65-46DF-8226-E64EB8F306CC.jpeg
A1E53E79-E18A-4166-BBFC-B9607DC7147D.jpeg
 

guest hs

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Have you thought about running a 9.25 A cut? That impeller you pulled out is something used in like a diesel hi torque application.
 
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rrrr

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Make new transom plates that will be a little bit taller, thicker and have countersunk bolt holes. Main reason for this is I had to clearance out the opening for the bigger HD Dominator jet pump and there is not a lot of sealing service over the pump I don’t like having a gob a bunch of silicone in there.

Rather than use a nut on the back of the bulkhead fittings that feed the motor and innercooler, the new plates will be threaded to accept -8AN. This should make reinstallation a lot easier.

View attachment 965027 View attachment 965028 View attachment 965029

While the plates are off I will pull the jet off and have my impeller cut down. The boat is currently running a 9.5" impeller and I think it’s too big. I am also adding a Prime a jet to the bowl because the pump is very tight and takes a lot of time for water to fill it up after watching. I hate being in “that guy“ who takes forever on the ramp while I wait for my pump to prime.




Sucking oil out the dipstick completely sucks so I will be adding a valve off the back of my Dan Olson pan. The pan comes with a -10AN Female fitting on the rear of the pan that I will have run to a valve that a hose can be attached to then ran through the bilge drain into a bucket.
View attachment 965030 View attachment 965031


Adding some trailer marker lights to the fenders so I can see the boaat night in my rearview mirrors. The fenders were originally fastened with self tapping bolts because I was in a hurry at the time, it is now being drilled and tapped for 7/16 bolts so the fenders will come on and off easily if needed.



All the marker lights were originally fastened with stainless screws and I think that was a little bit of a lame way to set it up so I will be drilling and tapping all the holes for 10/24 bolts. This will make disassembling the trailer a lot easier when I have it repainted next winter.

View attachment 965032 View attachment 965033

Solid plans! Your boat is the cleanest I've seen in quite some time, it's a beauty.

I really like the brackets and rigging that support the induction system. A lot of guys lose focus on the importance of keeping the turbos solidly supported to prevent vibratory and harmonic damage. Firmly supporting the carburetors in the manner you've done also enhances steady and predictable fuel delivery.

All first class work. 👍
 
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AZLineman

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Love the boat, love what you’re doing to it and I love the fact that you posted something boating related. Thank you👍
 

D19

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Have you thought about running a 9.25 A cut? That impeller you pulled out is something used in like a diesel hi torque application.

Yes, the impeller was for sure big. I bought the biggest one so I could figure out later what to cut it down to. Place Diverter recommended that I went to an A+ and keep making adjustments down if needed. The engine makes a lot of power at 6000 rpm and I'd like to keep my max around there. It's just a cruiser I'm not trying to win any races. A good cruise rpm and mid range pull (passing wake board boats) is what I want.
 

D19

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Solid plans! Your boat is the cleanest I've seen in quite some time, it's a beauty.

I really like the brackets and rigging that support the induction system. A lot of guys lose focus on the importance of keeping the turbos solidly supported to prevent vibratory and harmonic damage. Firmly supporting the carburetors in the manner you've done also enhances steady and predictable fuel delivery.

All first class work. 👍


Thank you. The mounts are stainless and came with the engine when I purchased it. It is a very sturdy set up. I was going to window them but cutting stainless sucks.
 

78Southwind

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What was the max RPM with that impeller?
 
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jetboatperformance

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We try to start everyone with big HP with a "big wheel" when your investing over a grand on an impeller its better to guess "large" (and cut down) ya cant add material back , My Impellers after initial CNC start life as 4A 's
 

D19

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It’s all mostly back together. Just need to get the plates powdercoated then I can button it all up and go boating. Here’s a few pics I snapped over the weekend.

Plates may look crooked in pictures because the are just resting there.


89D0A753-3E83-4BC9-8E6F-11C02D6447A3.jpeg



Trailer serviced and lights added.

787039B4-E603-4334-A119-0F8B568AC9A7.jpeg
4F0A4490-1EEB-4226-9554-D61EB8C591A8.jpeg



Oil drain hose and val


A9A2D117-5537-4EAE-AA22-6A54841CC8CB.jpeg


B6F32AC1-8D92-4FF1-9A42-223A68504592.jpeg
 
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