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95 jeep tj question...

2FORCEFULL

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I have a 95 jeep TJ... wrangler.. it has the cable front diff... the guy I bought it from said he never used it cause he didn't know how it works or what it does....

soooo.... what does it do, and how does it work...does pulling on it engage the posi ??? where should it be when towing, and what about driving on asphalt
 

havasujeeper

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That's how it works. Go on the street with the cable disengaged and make a tight circle. It will roll smooth. Then pull and lock the cable. Drive the circle, and it will be jerky and chirp. This is also how you confirm it is working.
You should only engage it while on the dirt so leave it pushed in while towing or on pavement. I pulled it on when pulling the boat out of the water.
 

2FORCEFULL

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That's how it works. Go on the street with the cable disengaged and make a tight circle. It will roll smooth. Then pull and lock the cable. Drive the circle, and it will be jerky and chirp. This is also how you confirm it is working.
You should only engage it while on the dirt so leave it pushed in while towing or on pavement. I pulled it on when pulling the boat out of the water.
thanks so much, but when in 4 high It still spins one tire ... right??
 

outboard_256

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thanks so much, but when in 4 high It still spins one tire ... right??

If you are open it will spin both if traction is equal on both sides. As soon as one side looses traction power gets directed to that side. When you are locked both wheels (left and right) will always spin at the same rate, even if one wheel is off the ground. Doesn't matter if you are in hi or low, will work the same.
 

havasujeeper

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It is a very simple idea. I believe there are 3 bolts, as opposed to the poorly designed air lock, so if you open it up, you will see its simple function.
 

2FORCEFULL

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It is a very simple idea. I believe there are 3 bolts, as opposed to the poorly designed air lock, so if you open it up, you will see its simple function.
I looked at one,... it was just a coupler that slid over the gear..but didn't know which way the cable was locked or unlocked... I'm towing it to utah tomorrow and wanna make sure... thanks again..
 

havasujeeper

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Should be neutral, neutral, cable pushed in, and key on the first click. Tow away!
 

dirtslinger2

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Should be neutral, neutral, cable pushed in, and key on the first click. Tow away!

If it's an automatic, that is not how you flat tow a TJ. Manual says, Transfer case in Neutral, transmission in Park, key in first click to unlock the steering column.
 

outboard_256

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Should be neutral, neutral, cable pushed in, and key on the first click. Tow away!

I have always left t-case in neutral, trans in gear (or park if auto), and key on first click if you have steering locks. You usually need the trans spinning to lube itself and t-case in neutral.
 

Mandelon

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I usually put a bungee cord on the steering wheel to help it stay pointed straight when towing flat. It should stay straight....but I tend to be extra careful about that sort of thing.

Our old YJ had a little four banger that sipped gas on the trails. It didn't have locking diffs though. It got stuck in some silly places. Fun times.
 

pwerwagn

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Just to clarify a few things, the YJ (1987-1995) has a "CAD" setup, which is what is being referred to. It is simply a collar, and a 2 piece long side front axle shaft (passenger side). The collar slides over the shaft. When the collar is not connecting the 2 halves, because it is a open diff, all of the movement from the opposite side (drivers side) gets taken up in the spider gears with some residual movement of the R&P/driveshaft. *If* you have a posi, locker, etc in the front of a CAD front axle, it will cause the driveshaft to spin, or if its a locker such as a detroit, it will make noise trying to lock/unlock, etc. I attached a picture below. The arm slides the collar over the 2 halves, effectively making it one shaft.

If you engage the cable (if its upgraded to posi-lock, and the vac part is deleted) it will hurt nothing. The 97+ TJ is setup in that manner along with a lot of other vehicles. It will not cause scrubbing and jerking when turning in a tight circle with the CAD engaged, if the T case is in 2wd (unless you have a locking diff). Many people will upgrade cad axles by getting rid of the 2 piece shaft and replacing with a single piece shaft.

jeep cad.JPG
 

outboard_256

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Just to clarify a few things, the YJ (1987-1995) has a "CAD" setup, which is what is being referred to. It is simply a collar, and a 2 piece long side front axle shaft (passenger side). The collar slides over the shaft. When the collar is not connecting the 2 halves, because it is a open diff, all of the movement from the opposite side (drivers side) gets taken up in the spider gears with some residual movement of the R&P/driveshaft. *If* you have a posi, locker, etc in the front of a CAD front axle, it will cause the driveshaft to spin, or if its a locker such as a detroit, it will make noise trying to lock/unlock, etc. I attached a picture below. The arm slides the collar over the 2 halves, effectively making it one shaft.

If you engage the cable (if its upgraded to posi-lock, and the vac part is deleted) it will hurt nothing. The 97+ TJ is setup in that manner along with a lot of other vehicles. It will not cause scrubbing and jerking when turning in a tight circle with the CAD engaged, if the T case is in 2wd (unless you have a locking diff). Many people will upgrade cad axles by getting rid of the 2 piece shaft and replacing with a single piece shaft.

View attachment 1117459

If this is the case it's not a locker/open diff but more of a manual locking hub. So when you pull the cable it wil put one side in "free mode" and the other way will "lock it". This is used so you don't have to get out of the truck to lock your hubs when you want to go off-road. Ram's had CAD's to get better gas millage for a few years, people didn't like it.
 
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