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Alpha One Gen 2 Top Cap Leaking! Help!

crzy2bealive

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I had to replace some internal seals in my alpha one drive and for some reasons it keeps leaking from the top of the gear case lid.

I originally used permatex form a gasket and that did nothing.

The water made its way past the top plate o-ring to the gears and milked the oil

I switched to permatex black rtv and it slowed down the water leaking.

Doesn’t seem to have leaked passed the top plate o-ring and milk up the water.

Am I doing something wrong here?

The 4 bolts on the bottom top, torque spec is only like 20 something ft lbs.

3B8C5F9A-4B78-410A-9335-FF95D6A1AA02.jpeg


63705870-276D-4CC0-A94B-F7BFF35E8F19.jpeg


8B004F91-9FCF-4270-AA60-52C1D204DA52.jpeg


D89F1A62-072C-4BE3-96CB-8A75D342A554.jpeg
 

crzy2bealive

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I only ran this on the hose so might be too much pressure. Taking it to the ramp tomorrow.
 

lbhsbz

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I would use RTV....forget that brown shit.

Apply a thin layer to both surfaces and distribute it with your finger to get it stick to the aluminum, then assemble, this process seems to work best on imperfect / old worn surfaces.
 

77charger

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I like to use 1211 that shit seems to work well for alot of stuff pricey yeh but it works.Need to order since i have a couple jet ski cases to split too.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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I like to use 1211 that shit seems to work well for alot of stuff pricey yeh but it works.Need to order since i have a couple jet ski cases to split too.

In all the years I rebuilt 2 stroke motors it was 1211 or 1184 both great stuff
 

wzuber

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Often times it helps to let the siliconed parts sit awhile and tack up some, then assembly prats evenly to make full contact but not complete clamping to cause oozing out of joint, let sit overnight and cure, then torque the following morning/day etc. Depending on ambient temps. Assembling too soon can squeeze out from.joint. ymmv
 

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I’m going to reseal it tonight take it to the ramp tomorrow morning and see what happens. The right stuff says cured in 90 mins.
Looks like you might be? missing the Rubber Stuffer Plug in which would fill in the big hole area where you'd then be applying the quicksilver perfect seal which the equivalent is now the Permatex Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid you were correctly using by the book around the rubber plug... That plug is also sort of used as a seal for that area should the top cover and drive shaft housing be in good shape, no pitting, flat surfacing, etc..

The stuffer plug would be item number 5A, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/46032797/28179843


Hopefully in this case for best possible fitment you're using the Merc OEM top cover O-ring vs the aftermarket options? , https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=32546


IMG_3029.jpeg
 

Lumpy

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Possibly a cracked case? Did you torque to spec? Maybe cap is cracked? Alpha and bravo cases aren’t high pressure…only water intrusion I’ve encountered was bravo lower seals and alpha small o-ring oil seal between the two halves. A properly sealed cap shouldn’t do that. Try a light pressure test…no more than 30lbs. That may reveal the problem.
 

crzy2bealive

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Looks like you might be? missing the Rubber Stuffer Plug in which would fill in the big hole area where you'd then be applying the quicksilver perfect seal which the equivalent is now the Permatex Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid you were correctly using by the book around the rubber plug... That plug is also sort of used as a seal for that area should the top cover and drive shaft housing be in good shape, no pitting, flat surfacing, etc..

The stuffer plug would be item number 5A, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/46032797/28179843


Hopefully in this case for best possible fitment you're using the Merc OEM top cover O-ring vs the aftermarket options? , https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=32546


View attachment 1504989
I actually never had a stuffer plug. When I disassembled it, it didn’t even have any kind of sealant just bad corrosion which I cleaned up with scotchbrite.

And for the o-ring I bought a brand new OEM as I wanted to avoid any issues.
 

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I actually never had a stuffer plug. When I disassembled it, it didn’t even have any kind of sealant just bad corrosion which I cleaned up with scotchbrite.

And for the o-ring I bought a brand new OEM as I wanted to avoid any issues.
You may want to invest in the plug and if possible on your end, perform a pressure test of 7-10 psi and observe gauge for up to 15 minutes.
There are lots of videos on you tube plus this guide from Don S comes to mind as well, https://forums.iboats.com/threads/mercruiser-procedure-for-pressure-testing.437896/#post-3077562

 

lbhsbz

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I actually never had a stuffer plug. When I disassembled it, it didn’t even have any kind of sealant just bad corrosion which I cleaned up with scotchbrite.

And for the o-ring I bought a brand new OEM as I wanted to avoid any issues.
Got any friends who smoke? Dump the oil, bolt the cover on with some sort of temporary goo to sort of seal it it, shove a piece of vacuum line or similar in the filler hole and have a smoker buddy take a big hit and exhale into the hose....watch for where the smoke comes out. That's how you find a crack you didn't know was there without buying a smoke machine.

Back before smoke machines were a thing....Me or one of the 4 other smokers in the shop used to get called over to do this to find vacuum leaks....used to bill out .5 for it lol.
 

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Got any friends who smoke? Dump the oil, bolt the cover on with some sort of temporary goo to sort of seal it it, shove a piece of vacuum line or similar in the filler hole and have a smoker buddy take a big hit and exhale into the hose....watch for where the smoke comes out. That's how you find a crack you didn't know was there without buying a smoke machine.

Back before smoke machines were a thing....Me or one of the 4 other smokers in the shop used to get called over to do this to find vacuum leaks....used to bill out .5 for it lol.
Maybe a Vape pen vs cigarette nowadays :D as it seems like every time I see someone take a hit of a pen at a stop light with the window halfway down, I start checking the car over for a fire, overheating or just something wrong somewhere. :eek::p
 

lbhsbz

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Maybe a Vape pen vs cigarette nowadays :D as it seems like every time I see someone take a hit of a pen at a stop light with the window halfway down, I start checking the car over for a fire, overheating or just something wrong somewhere. :eek::p
That's funny....picked my kid up at school today and on the way home saw a cloud coming off of car in front of us....kid goes "headgasket"? No son, just a vaper lol.
 

HST4ME

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Your missing the plug and all the oring needs is grease. Make sure your drive shower bolts aren't bottoming out.
 

Outdrive1

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You sure it’s not leaking under your impeller and pressurizing the drive until it pushes out past the top cap? Have you changed the seal below the wear plate that the impeller sits on? That’s where I would start. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
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crzy2bealive

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You sure it’s not leaking under your impeller and pressurizing the drive until it pushes out past the top cap? Have you changed the seal below the wear plate that the impeller sits on? That’s where I would start. 🤷🏼‍♂️
Yup I actually replaced the impeller, the seal under the impeller, and the shift shaft seal.

Pressure tested lower unit before reassembly
 

crzy2bealive

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Ok no leaks after reseal and just taking it to the ramp.

Not sure if too much hose pressure at the house caused it.

But no more leaks
 

crzy2bealive

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Ok I ran the boat for 5 hours today,

Can someone verify if this oil looks ok? (Aka Has water in it?)

It looks kinda cloudy but not sure if that’s due to old milky oil that needed to be flushed out and being used today?

Yah I’m a bit paranoid because I have a powell trip in a few weeks.

I’m also going to redo a pressure test. 9 psi and I’m going to run to dinner for an hour or 2 to see if it leaked out.

F4DAB698-1E94-44A4-9F53-DF930CFF9D43.jpeg

80187A1C-4784-4FDB-85D7-5157025EC0E2.jpeg

Fresh oil color.

0D682831-FE73-49E6-B43A-76950966B81A.jpeg
 

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Mikes56

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That doesn’t look like fresh gear oil, but it doesn’t look like much water mixed with gear oil either. Maybe leftover moisture in the drive?
Pour fresh gear oil in a drinking glass and pour some of that drain oil into another drinking glass and put them side by side.

Do another drain and refill and run it again if you are worried about it. I would, because it’s easy and cheap to do.
 

lbhsbz

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If water is coming in (as opposed to oil getting out)....do a vacuum test instead of a pressure test.
 

crzy2bealive

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That doesn’t look like fresh gear oil, but it doesn’t look like much water mixed with gear oil either. Maybe leftover moisture in the drive?
Pour fresh gear oil in a drinking glass and pour some of that drain oil into another drinking glass and put them side by side.

Do another drain and refill and run it again if you are worried about it. I would, because it’s easy and cheap to do.

Definitely cheaper to drain and fill and have peace of mind.
 

Lumpy

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You sure it’s not leaking under your impeller and pressurizing the drive until it pushes out past the top cap? Have you changed the seal below the wear plate that the impeller sits on? That’s where I would start. 🤷🏼‍♂️
My money is on this...
Ok I ran the boat for 5 hours today,

Can someone verify if this oil looks ok? (Aka Has water in it?)

It looks kinda cloudy but not sure if that’s due to old milky oil that needed to be flushed out and being used today?

Yah I’m a bit paranoid because I have a powell trip in a few weeks.

I’m also going to redo a pressure test. 9 psi and I’m going to run to dinner for an hour or 2 to see if it leaked out.

View attachment 1505228
View attachment 1505225
Fresh oil color.

View attachment 1505226
Yup, water in oil…you mentioned new oil cooler!?!? Why? What seals did you replace? Need a factual breakdown of what you did exactly.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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I know some seals are directional when seperating water and oil. Not sure if the ones that were replaced are or not.
 

crzy2bealive

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My money is on this...

Yup, water in oil…you mentioned new oil cooler!?!? Why? What seals did you replace? Need a factual breakdown of what you did exactly.

It all started last season with oil leaking out of the lower drive. Coming out of the intake area of the lower unit.

So during the off season I did the following.

Lower unit:

Replaced Impeller
Replaced the cone shaped seal under the impeller. Not sure what it’s called.
Replaced the shift shaft seal.

Pressure tested the lower unit separately with a block of plate.

Held pressure for 24 hours.

On the upper unit.

I replaced the the seal under need the bearing assembly. Not sure what it’s called.

Replaced the o-ring on the top cap.

Replaced u-joints.

No water in the bellows,

Reassembled everything. New seal and o-ring to reassemble onto bell housing.

No more leaking oil.

Ran it on a hose kept leaking water out of the top cap.

Originally used form a gasket

Drive oil came out like mustard,

Silicone the top cap even better with black rtv doesn’t leak water out anymore.

Ran boat for 5 hours today.

Drained oil. Looks better than it did the last time just running it on a hose.maybe residual moisture from when it first had water intrusion running it on a hose.

Currently at a beach drinking

Has 9 psi pressure test will check if it leaked out when I get back.

I have read conflicting information that I shouldn’t vacuum test on a mercruiser. Can someone confirm? Vacuum test was only designed for Volvo drives?
 

mesquito_creek

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Ok I ran the boat for 5 hours today,

Can someone verify if this oil looks ok? (Aka Has water in it?)

It looks kinda cloudy but not sure if that’s due to old milky oil that needed to be flushed out and being used today?

Yah I’m a bit paranoid because I have a powell trip in a few weeks.

I’m also going to redo a pressure test. 9 psi and I’m going to run to dinner for an hour or 2 to see if it leaked out.

View attachment 1505228
View attachment 1505225
Fresh oil color.

View attachment 1505226


That yellow stuff is for the outboards I believe… I use the blue stuff.
 

4Waters

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It all started last season with oil leaking out of the lower drive. Coming out of the intake area of the lower unit.

So during the off season I did the following.

Lower unit:

Replaced Impeller
Replaced the cone shaped seal under the impeller. Not sure what it’s called.
Replaced the shift shaft seal.

Pressure tested the lower unit separately with a block of plate.

Held pressure for 24 hours.

On the upper unit.

I replaced the the seal under need the bearing assembly. Not sure what it’s called.

Replaced the o-ring on the top cap.

Replaced u-joints.

No water in the bellows,

Reassembled everything. New seal and o-ring to reassemble onto bell housing.

No more leaking oil.

Ran it on a hose kept leaking water out of the top cap.

Originally used form a gasket

Drive oil came out like mustard,

Silicone the top cap even better with black rtv doesn’t leak water out anymore.

Ran boat for 5 hours today.

Drained oil. Looks better than it did the last time just running it on a hose.maybe residual moisture from when it first had water intrusion running it on a hose.

Currently at a beach drinking

Has 9 psi pressure test will check if it leaked out when I get back.

I have read conflicting information that I shouldn’t vacuum test on a mercruiser. Can someone confirm? Vacuum test was only designed for Volvo drives?
I vacuum and pressure tested my bravo
 

crzy2bealive

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You sure it’s not leaking under your impeller and pressurizing the drive until it pushes out past the top cap? Have you changed the seal below the wear plate that the impeller sits on? That’s where I would start. 🤷🏼‍♂️
F1C7C0F4-8FB2-45E4-8FF7-6DA618A938E9.jpeg

I replaced it
 

crzy2bealive

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Looks good. 👍 how about prop shaft seal? Are your bellows good? Do you have water in the bellows?

Ok which one is prop shaft seal?

That’s the one directly behind the prop? That needs to be essentially drilled out.

If so, I did not because when I initial pressure tested and spun the prop shaft it did not show bubbles with soapy water,

No water in the bellows.
 

Outdrive1

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In the diagram, 57 and 58. One is designed to keep oil in, the other to keep water out. They are put in opposite directions. If you lose the outside seal water can get in. Fishing line can ruin them. It’s been years since I wrenched so trying to remember exactly.
IMG_7735.png
 

crzy2bealive

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In the diagram, 57 and 58. One is designed to keep oil in, the other to keep water out. They are put in opposite directions. If you lose the outside seal water can get in. Fishing line can ruin them. It’s been years since I wrenched so trying to remember exactly. View attachment 1505276
Yah I didn’t touch that area as the pressure test didn’t indicate I had leak’s there
 

CCXHAL

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Are you positive those bolts aren’t bottoming out?
 

CCXHAL

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Screw the bolts in without the cap. See how much remains.
 

crzy2bealive

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Ok so it held 9 psi for like 2 hours on a pressure test.

Vacuum test I’m at about -6 psi for 20 mins has not moved.

Maybe this is how aerated oil looks like after it has been used.

I’m going to find a glass container and see how it looks in the morning.

It really could just be residual moisture from when I sealed the top plate incorrectly the first times

239CF9B7-02D7-41A0-9EA1-5FB518C5F87F.jpeg
 

4Waters

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Ok so it held 9 psi for like 2 hours on a pressure test.

Vacuum test I’m at about -6 psi for 20 mins has not moved.

Maybe this is how aerated oil looks like after it has been used.

I’m going to find a glass container and see how it looks in the morning.

It really could just be residual moisture from when I sealed the top plate incorrectly the first times

View attachment 1505305
I would say it's residual moisture,just leave that 6in of vacuum on for the night. If all is good in the morning fill it up, run it on the hose or take it back to the lake then drain and refill and forget about it, have fun this summer.

I had a little drive oil on the floor of the garage 9 years ago after sitting all winter 9 months after I rebuilt the drive myself. After I rebuilt it I pressure tested it overnight and it didn't drop at all so filled it and enjoyed it the rest of the summer. I drained the drive oil and pressure tested it again over night with the same results, I did a vacuum test over night and it was all good as well. I filled it up with fresh oil and ran it, it hasn't leaked since even with changing the drive oil every other season. Damned if I know🤷
 

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Ok so it held 9 psi for like 2 hours on a pressure test.

Vacuum test I’m at about -6 psi for 20 mins has not moved.

Maybe this is how aerated oil looks like after it has been used.

I’m going to find a glass container and see how it looks in the morning.

It really could just be residual moisture from when I sealed the top plate incorrectly the first times
Yes, that just looks like the usual residual moisture in which honestly takes a good number of oil changes to start to clear it back out to a normal color of the oil you're using...It doesn't look fresh and if it was leaking that bad right after all the work you have done, then usually the moment you pull the drain plug, clear water would come out first before the oil.

With the oil mentioned and just so you're aware that technically speaking, while oil is oil in the grand scheme of things to keep it lubed and still would work for you as many have used it as well over the years, the Premium gear lube you're using was more meant to be used in lower horsepower outboard gearcases vs most of the stern drives used today... The following is the breakdown of recommendations from Merc.

Mercury Precision Gear Lubes​

Mercury 80W-90 Premium Gear Lube is recommended for gearcases for outboards below 75 horsepower. It outperforms automotive gear oil in marine applications by providing maximum protection against excessive wear in the presence of water and helps prevent corrosion and pitting.

SAE 90 High-Performance Gear Lube was engineered to extend gear life in high-speed and high-horsepower sterndrive and outboard gearcase applications. It contains extreme pressure synthetic additives to protect gears from metal-to-metal contact and provide excellent protection against corrosion and excessive wear.

85W-90 Extreme Performance Gear Lube is recommended for use in racing, high-performance and extreme-duty gearcase applications.


Often you can find the High-Performance Gear Lube too at Walmart for the lowest costs vs say a Merc dealer.🤫
 
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