Freaking pools (leak?)

[badluck]

What makes the no stop coupling a temporary fix? Are they shorter than a standard coupling?

 

[Melloyellovector]

What makes the no stop coupling a temporary fix? Are they shorter than a standard coupling?

Sch40 fittings are taper fit, meaning no glue at all most will hold at 25psi range with zero glue, have seen fittings with zero glue hold above 40psi.

Glue welds and makes the connection, reality very little glue makes it between the fitting and pipe. The weld point is inside end of pipe and outside fitting face.

Pools, especially spas have extreme psi swings, 10-25psi normal operation, valves moving, jets getting closed off from backs, fingers, what ever. Can spike psi, well into 50+ psi momentarily - water hammer inside the fitting.

Clearly you have water hammer or good amount of soil movement. Putting extreme pressures on fittings. Making your plumbing fail.

A no stop coupling has no taper inside fitting. It’s great for non pressure lines like drains or raceways. But in a water hammer situation with high psi the pipe or fitting WILL fail.

I’ll take time out of my day to explain how to do stuff right. Is that what your looking for or just enough people to agree with how to do it wrong? Lol

Zooming in on that pic, the 1in line, looks like the Venturi tee is about 1.5” inside from that reducing T. Be very careful with that pipe / fittings, that tee hidden is where water and air connect and air likely loops inside wall of spa. If you think this repair is challenging, add Venturi tee with air tee stacked on top of it all buried in Gunite / shotcrete, that depending on how close they are to face of spa can blow out the seal from inside to outside of structure and plaster / pebble finish.

 

[badluck]

Sch40 fittings are taper fit, meaning no glue at all most will hold at 25psi range with zero glue, have seen fittings with zero glue hold above 40psi.

Glue welds and makes the connection, reality very little glue makes it between the fitting and pipe. The weld point is inside end of pipe and outside fitting face.

Pools, especially spas have extreme psi swings, 10-25psi normal operation, valves moving, jets getting closed off from backs, fingers, what ever. Can spike psi, well into 50+ psi momentarily - water hammer inside the fitting.

Clearly you have water hammer or good amount of soil movement. Putting extreme pressures on fittings. Making your plumbing fail.

A no stop coupling has no taper inside fitting. It’s great for non pressure lines like drains or raceways. But in a water hammer situation with high psi the pipe or fitting WILL fail.

I’ll take time out of my day to explain how to do stuff right. Is that what your looking for or just enough people to agree with how to do it wrong? Lol

Zooming in on that pic, the 1in line, looks like the Venturi tee is about 1.5” inside from that reducing T. Be very careful with that pipe / fittings, that tee hidden is where water and air connect and air likely loops inside wall of spa. If you think this repair is challenging, add Venturi tee with air tee stacked on top of it all buried in Gunite / shotcrete, that depending on how close they are to face of spa can blow out the seal from inside to outside of structure and plaster / pebble finish.

Thank you for the education. I believe the tee is feeding the jets. It’s too short for a coupling so I’ll need to drill the fitting with a pvc reamer. There is zero play in those pipes so I’ll play around with a piece of 2” and see how flexible I can make it with heat. I appreciate the suggestions. I certainly don’t want to get into the pebble or gunite. Not a DIYer by choice. It’s what you do when you need to

 

[Melloyellovector]

Thank you for the education. I believe the tee is feeding the jets. It’s too short for a coupling so I’ll need to drill the fitting with a pvc reamer. There is zero play in those pipes so I’ll play around with a piece of 2” and see how flexible I can make it with heat. I appreciate the suggestions. I certainly don’t want to get into the pebble or gunite. Not a DIYer by choice. It’s what you do when you need to

You can use pipe extender, where a coupling won’t fit. Goes inside pipe and leaves a section outside same diameter of pipe.

2” pipe you need about 24” of room to flex into position. Do not heat near ends of pipe, keep those areas cool. You can heat about 16” of the pipe, 4” in from each end. 16” pc heated enough you could literally fold on half like a taco, put into place and re shape pipe back into pipe. Keeps ends cool so they fit as they should into fittings. Plus gives a solid point to push and pull from with out it getting to slinky on you.

 

[Orange Juice]

Well I found the leak! It was in the hot tub plumbing. This should be fun to repair. Plumbers loop or try to make 2 slip couplings?

Can you figure out where the next 90-degree fitting is located, and cut out more slab? You already doing concrete work, time to open it up and fix it right.

 

[badluck]

Can you figure out where the next 90-degree fitting is located, and cut out more slab? You already doing concrete work, time to open it up and fix it right.

It’s all done with tee’s and a few 45’s

 

[badluck]

You can use pipe extender, where a coupling won’t fit. Goes inside pipe and leaves a section outside same diameter of pipe.

2” pipe you need about 24” of room to flex into position. Do not heat near ends of pipe, keep those areas cool. You can heat about 16” of the pipe, 4” in from each end. 16” pc heated enough you could literally fold on half like a taco, put into place and re shape pipe back into pipe. Keeps ends cool so they fit as they should into fittings. Plus gives a solid point to push and pull from with out it getting to slinky on you.

I tried that with a 14” piece. I need to experiment a bit more. Nice tip on the extender

 

[Melloyellovector]

I tried that with a 14” piece. I need to experiment a bit more. Nice tip on the extender

Hence why I said this may be a task your gonna need help with. House plumbers don’t heat pipe so very few would be of any help
If you have an electrician buddy that is good at heating conduit he could be your saving grace.

edit: 14” of pipe on 2” pipe is to short, you’ll destroy the pipe before you’ll get it in place. You’ll need min of 24” of pipe, dig and expose more.

 

[SCHIADATROUBLE]

Hence why I said this may be a task your gonna need help with. House plumbers don’t heat pipe so very few would be of any help
If you have an electrician buddy that is good at heating conduit he could be your saving grace.

edit: 14” of pipe on 2” pipe is to short, you’ll destroy the pipe before you’ll get it in place. You’ll need min of 24” of pipe, dig and expose more.

We heat pipe all the time. I also duct tape the ends to store heat prior to bending it helps a lot. Then cool with a wet rag once it’s formed how you like. Only works with schedule 40 or 80 by the way. I’d look for a used one and sell it after.

 

[Melloyellovector]

We heat pipe all the time. I also duct tape the ends to store heat prior to bending it helps a lot. Then cool with a wet rag once it’s formed how you like. Only works with schedule 40 or 80 by the way. I’d look for a used one and sell it after. View attachment 1508178

Taping or capping the ends is more to air lock the interior of pipe, preventing kinks in pipe. The locked air won’t let the pipe collapse. In this case, in a small area pipe will likely need to semi collapse put into place then pulled to put some tension and remove kink and massage back into shape

can be done with a simple propane or map gas torch, no need to purchase heater.

 

[badluck]

Found a 45 today. Had a few minutes so I did a little more digging.

 

[Melloyellovector]

Found a 45 today. Had a few minutes so I did a little more digging.

That will make it an easier fix.
1.5” coupling left of tee, 1” pipe extender into pipe and new tee, 1.5” pipe from tee with new st45 and coupling ( or 45 and reg coupling just past 45 )
you may be able to get enough flex between the 2 pipes to monkey fuk it into place, or heat between tee and 45 and easy peasy into place.
Either way it’s feasible you could do at this point. Use primer on old pipe for sure to clean and make it less brittle when you start cranking on it