Adding trim switch to transom

[Guest06]

Thinking to add a trim switch on the rear of the transom on my new to me boat! Has anyone done this if so is it as easy as it looks like it'd be (drill hole, mount switch, wire in direct to trim pump)

 

[BHC Vic]

Easy as paying 150 bucks 😜

 

[hallett21]

Easy as paying 150 bucks [emoji12]

Was that new or after you took delivery? Sounds like a deal to me and I'm a sparky lol

 

[Guest06]

Easy as paying 150 bucks 

Yea who can do one for me for 150$??

 

[BHC Vic]

Was that new or after you took delivery? Sounds like a deal to me and I'm a sparky lol

Cobra did it for me on the second service i think. I was just looking at some of my receipts yesterday since I'm taking the boat for service tomorrow morning.

 

[shunter2005]

Don't think it's too difficult. I have a switch, ready to install for my boat, but just haven't had the guts to drill a 3/4" hole in the fiberglass yet. Most will be plug and play, but some have to be wired. Maybe this fall.

Here is a video: [video=youtube;pQAiuvimMKQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQAiuvimMKQ[/video]

The video only shows the drilling and mounting, but stops short of wiring it up.

 

[Guest06]

Don't think it's too difficult. I have a switch, ready to install for my boat, but just haven't had the guts to drill a 3/4" hole in the fiberglass yet. Most will be plug and play, but some have to be wired. Maybe this fall.

Here is a video: [video=youtube;pQAiuvimMKQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQAiuvimMKQ[/video]

The video only shows the drilling and mounting, but stops short of wiring it up.

Yea I watched that same video late last night. Going to order a switch kit this week I think. Need time to go out and look at my trim pump to see if I can use the included inline plug and play if so I will for sure order one right away.


Next try to find all the parts for a foot wash, want a billet momentary switch and the billet nozzle like on the Eliminators and DCB's though but can't find anywhere online.

 

[shunter2005]

I got mine (87-815200A 1) from Leader's Marine for about $56, but Great Lakes Skipper on Ebay has it for less than $50. Then get you a pretty bezel cover for it from Eddie's Marine or Marine Industries West (Dana).

 

[Guest06]

I got mine (87-815200A 1) from Leader's Marine for about $56, but Great Lakes Skipper on Ebay has it for less than $50. Then get you a pretty bezel cover for it from Eddie's Marine or Marine Industries West (Dana).

Pretty much my exact thought of what to do. Found it as well new in box on eBay, from same seller you spoke of here.

 

[shunter2005]

Pretty much my exact thought of what to do. Found it as well new in box on eBay, from same seller you spoke of here.

Well, take some pics or vids of the installation, so I can get up the courage to drill a hole in my boat.

 

[Guest06]

Well, take some pics or vids of the installation, so I can get up the courage to drill a hole in my boat.

Bought the kit today from Nordic was 49.xx$ after tax included the wire harness and all. Looks super easy. The bolt place I get my hardware from is already closed and I gotta leave tonight for work, so hopefully when I get home Friday I'll get the two bolts and nuts and go at it. But also thinking 💭 to wait till after Chris paints the name on the transom so I don't have to kick my own ass later.

 

[Guest06]

Took the longest to decide where I was going to put it, where I really wanted to put it is double walled and well I was scared to drill through that area so of all the single thickness (3/4") area I could use I chose area I felt would be best for me, as well not risk the wife or kids to drag their butts across it.

 

[Guest06]

Was honestly more time to chose that then the actual labor. The harness it straight plug and play and I had a 3/4" step but, used a 1/16 pilot followed up with a 5/16 bit then step step step hole was in. I totally forgot a pic with the 3/4 hole in there, ordered a billet cover so when that shows up I'll update with the single hole pic.

And it is straight just the flash I think makes it look crooked I measured 6 times before putting the screws in

 

[shunter2005]

Nice install. It looks very good. So, I guess now I am going to have to just "man up" and get mine done.

A couple of questions.

Did you seal the hole? With what? (silicone, 4000, 5200, etc.)
Where did you order your cover plate? Eddie Marine, Marine Industries West or somewhere else?
Just curious, is your tilt switch hot all the time or do you have to turn on your Perko switch first?

 

[Guest06]

Nice install. It looks very good. So, I guess now I am going to have to just "man up" and get mine done.

A couple of questions.

Did you seal the hole? With what? (silicone, 4000, 5200, etc.)
Where did you order your cover plate? Eddie Marine, Marine Industries West or somewhere else?
Just curious, is your tilt switch hot all the time or do you have to turn on your Perko switch first?

Talking to one of the installers and the parts guy at Nordic, they said no need to use any sealant as long as you don't remove the little gasket on the back of the switch as it's designed by Merc to just go on that way!

Plate i ordered is from Eddie Marine.

As you literally unplug the connection at the trim pump, and plug this harness in, just a Y then plug other side in the other side of Y it doesn't change in anyway how it's wired already. So if yours works at the helm with perko on or off now it'll still work same, if only works with switch on it'll still only work with switch on.

If you don't own a step bit, I'd highly suggest buying one, even if just a cheap Harbor Freight one, as I said I ran pilot hole then a slightly bigger second, then just ran my step bit through the hull. It left an absolutely perfect hole without any scraggly teeth marks etc normally caused by a hole saw bit. And bring it calls for a 3/4 hole and 3/4 step bits are super common and great to have laying around for any number of things it's worth you're while. As I said it prolly took maybe 15 minutes to do after I decided the location to put it.

 

[shunter2005]

Talking to one of the installers and the parts guy at Nordic, they said no need to use any sealant as long as you don't remove the little gasket on the back of the switch as it's designed by Merc to just go on that way!

Plate i ordered is from Eddie Marine.

As you literally unplug the connection at the trim pump, and plug this harness in, just a Y then plug other side in the other side of Y it doesn't change in anyway how it's wired already. So if yours works at the helm with perko on or off now it'll still work same, if only works with switch on it'll still only work with switch on.

If you don't own a step bit, I'd highly suggest buying one, even if just a cheap Harbor Freight one, as I said I ran pilot hole then a slightly bigger second, then just ran my step bit through the hull. It left an absolutely perfect hole without any scraggly teeth marks etc normally caused by a hole saw bit. And bring it calls for a 3/4 hole and 3/4 step bits are super common and great to have laying around for any number of things it's worth you're while. As I said it prolly took maybe 15 minutes to do after I decided the location to put it.

I will take a look at my switch. I don't remember seeing a gasket on the back, but then again I didn't really look that hard. If it seals itself, that's even better. Guess sealing the hole is only necessary if your hole exposes any wood on the transom.

Right now I am leaning toward the cover from MIW (Dana), but it probably doesn't really matter which one.

Yes, the wiring does look very simple. I just want to rewire it to be hot all the time. It is a PITA to have to raise the hatch, turn on the switch and then raise/lower the outdrive.

It doesn't seem to me that the steps are deep enough on a step drill, but then again, it depends on the thickness of the material you are drilling. If my mounting location only goes through glass a step will probably work just fine. I may get one at HF and try it, but I am also thinking about using a Forstner bit if the material is thicker than the step.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Guest06]

I will take a look at my switch. I don't remember seeing a gasket on the back, but then again I didn't really look that hard. If it seals itself, that's even better. Guess sealing the hole is only necessary if your hole exposes any wood on the transom.

Right now I am leaning toward the cover from MIW (Dana), but it probably doesn't really matter which one.

Yes, the wiring does look very simple. I just want to rewire it to be hot all the time. It is a PITA to have to raise the hatch, turn on the switch and then raise/lower the outdrive.

It doesn't seem to me that the steps are deep enough on a step drill, but then again, it depends on the thickness of the material you are drilling. If my mounting location only goes through glass a step will probably work just fine. I may get one at HF and try it, but I am also thinking about using a Forstner bit if the material is thicker than the step.

Thanks for the info.

The gasket actually looks like part of the molded plastic till you take it in the sun.
I used a set of calipers and the hole needs to be .72" I had a used step but that was a 3/4 max but as it's been used a on steel or maybe just the lack of perfection on the Milwaukee bit it was .728" so it was perfect to run all the way through. And then the hole was snug as well.

 

[Guest06]

And the thickness of the hull where I put it was probably right at 3/4. Real surprised how thick this hull is

 

[shunter2005]

Was honestly more time to chose that then the actual labor. The harness it straight plug and play and I had a 3/4" step but, used a 1/16 pilot followed up with a 5/16 bit then step step step hole was in. I totally forgot a pic with the 3/4 hole in there, ordered a billet cover so when that shows up I'll update with the single hole pic.

And it is straight just the flash I think makes it look crooked I measured 6 times before putting the screws in

Ok, finally manned up today and mounted my transom tilt switch.. After doing it, I can't believe I was so apprehensive about drilling into the glass. I used a new 3/4" Forstner bit and it cut the fiberglass like a hot knife through butter. Perfect hole inside and out. Just need to finish wiring it up, as I ran out of daylight and time.

Oh, hell!! Didn't even think about the fact that I mounted it directly in line with the cockpit cover. That was pretty dumb!!! However, I haven't used the cover, since I brought it home from Havasu two years ago. Probably will fit over the switch, maybe.

.

 

[Guest06]

Ok, finally manned up today and mounted my transom tilt switch.. After doing it, I can't believe I was so apprehensive about drilling into the glass. I used a new 3/4" Forstner bit and it cut the fiberglass like a hot knife through butter. Perfect hole inside and out. Just need to finish wiring it up, as I ran out of daylight and time.

Oh, hell!! Didn't even think about the fact that I mounted it directly in line with the cockpit cover. That was pretty dumb!!! However, I haven't used the cover, since I brought it home from Havasu two years ago. Probably will fit over the switch, maybe.
View attachment 615581 View attachment 615582 .

Should literally be disconnect the three bullet plugs then replug the jumper in.
Came out super clean always a fan of purple on boats, and you’ll never use the switch while covered.

 

[shunter2005]

Should literally be disconnect the three bullet plugs then replug the jumper in.
Came out super clean always a fan of purple on boats, and you’ll never use the switch while covered.

Yes, it was much easier to do than I expected. It looks like all I need to do is plug into the trim pump and then plug in the bypass. I just have to get my tie wraps out and make it look pretty before I connect everything up. Then I have to pull the hot wire that is wired into the starter and connect it directly to the battery, so it's hot all the time. Not a big deal, just need some daylight to finish. Then onto other mods. Next up: New IMCO manifolds and risers.

You ever get your billet cover installed?

 

[Guest06]

Yea i got it like a week later. Mines just polished, kinda wanted blue but none of the other billet is blue all is polished or satin

 

[shunter2005]

Bet it looks much better than flat black. I like polished stuff on a boat.