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Automatic Bilge Pump Question

Tittyman

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These bilge pumps that come on every 2.5 minutes to check for water are they OK or has there been problems with battery draining...If they are good, which one is best..
 

Waffles

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These bilge pumps that come on every 2.5 minutes to check for water are they OK or has there been problems with battery draining...If they are good, which one is best..
Most automatic pumps operate when their internal/external floats get past a certain point to turn it on. If your pump is turning on every 2.5 minutes, you have bigger problems than the battery draining.

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77charger

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Rule 500 and they won't kill the battery I have left mine on after a trip and at home I'll hear a quick buzz if I'm near boat 4 days later.
Also had one in my 550 stand up I'd leave on if it stayed in water over night didn't kill that small battery either.
 

rrrr

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The electronic type have a sensor package that spins the pump momentarily. If it detects a current level above the dry running amperage of the pump, in other words if the pump is moving water, it turns the pump on.

When the current level drops, indicating the water is gone, the pump shuts off.

It won't deplete your battery unless the pump runs continuously for hours, which is a different problem. The boat is going to sink.

I would buy a Rule pump.
 
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77charger

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Most automatic pumps operate when their internal/external floats get past a certain point to turn it on. If your pump is turning on every 2.5 minutes, you have bigger problems than the battery draining.

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The rule automatic doesn't use external float or sensor. It cycles every couple minutes or whatever time it is for about a second or two if no load it shuts off. If it feels a load it will stay on til water is no longer pumping out. IMO have them and they are great.
 

Waffles

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The rule automatic doesn't use external float or sensor. It cycles every couple minutes or whatever time it is for about a second or two if no load it shuts off. If it feels a load it will stay on til water is no longer pumping out. IMO have them and they are great.
That's crazy I didn't even know that existed.

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rrrr

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They are better than a float switch because trash in the bilge can defeat the float operation. Also if the splices to the switch wiring lay on the floor of the bilge, which is common, the connections corrode and the pump fails to operate.
 

Tittyman

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They are better than a float switch because trash in the bilge can defeat the float operation. Also if the splices to the switch wiring lay on the floor of the bilge, which is common, the connections corrode and the pump fails to operate.
Can you wire in a 3 way switch and use it manual or automatic or in the off position so it will not turn on...I have an 18' Sanger Pickle Fork..is the 500 gph enough or do I need to go larger..I have 2 pumps now. 1 automatic with the standard float switch and one manual. It seems the one with the automatic float switch allows too much water before it turns on.
 
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Backlash

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Run two pumps. One automatic and a larger manual pump when you realize the automatic pump is insufficient.
 

rrrr

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Can you wire in a 3 way switch and use it manual or automatic or in the off position so it will not turn on...I have an 18' Sanger Pickle Fork..is the 500 gph enough or do I need to go larger..I have 2 pumps now. 1 automatic with the standard float switch and one manual. It seems the one with the automatic float switch allows too much water before it turns on.

That's the problem with float switches, they require about 1.5" of water to turn on. The electronic pumps are 3/4" or less. The Water Witch is a mercury switch, but I don't know the turn-on depth.

I had a 1500 GPH electronic automatic pump in my flatbottom, wired with an on-off-momentary switch and a smaller 500 GPH electronic automatic pump wired to an on-off switch.

The bigger pump was plumbed to a 1" through hull fitting. A 1500 GPH pumps 25 GPM, and the 500 pumps 8.4 GPM, for a total over a gallon every two seconds. If you have a flattie, jet boat, or picklefork, a single 500 GPH pump isn't going to do shit if you take a wave over the gunwales or transom.
 

Flying_Lavey

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Get rid of the bullshit mechanical float and use a Water Witch to trigger the pump. Problem solved. Never seen a Water Witch fail.
Mine did. Stopped sensing the water and wouldn't turn on.

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Tittyman

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That's the problem with float switches, they require about 1.5" of water to turn on. The electronic pumps are 3/4" or less. The Water Witch is a mercury switch, but I don't know the turn-on depth.

I had a 1500 GPH electronic automatic pump in my flatbottom, wired with an on-off-momentary switch and a smaller 500 GPH electronic automatic pump wired to an on-off switch.

The bigger pump was plumbed to a 1" through hull fitting. A 1500 GPH pumps 25 GPM, and the 500 pumps 8.4 GPM, for a total over a gallon every two seconds. If you have a flattie, jet boat, or picklefork, a single 500 GPH pump isn't going to do shit if you take a wave over the gunwales or transom.
I have a 1500 gph now with a manual switch..works great..the other pump with a float switch is 500 gph and wired directly to a second battery. I want to get a new electronic pump to replace the float switch pump and install a 3 way pull switch on the dash...wired to a second battery.
 
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rrrr

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I have a 1500 gph now with a manual switch..works great..the other pump with a float switch is 500 gph and wired directly to a second battery. I want to get a new electronic pump to replace the float switch pump and install a 3 way pull switch on the dash...

It sounds like you came to the same conclusion I did, the smaller the boat, the bigger the bilge pumps need to be. :D
 

77charger

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Run two pumps. One automatic and a larger manual pump when you realize the automatic pump is insufficient.
Actually a great idea leave the auto for overnight or while floating then have the manual for extra emergency.But IMO if a rule 500 automatic cant keep up your already in trouble.You can also use the rule auto manually if you turn it off then again turn it back on it will cycle.I just like the idea of no float switch,water witch,or whatever else is out there in 30 plus years of boating ive seen them all or used some of them simple compact auto is hard to beat
 

old rigger

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78405821-015D-4BFC-B2F3-6BA05B44802E.jpeg


I use a switch like this one as I had the built in switch in a rule pump fail before. Nothing happened to the boat, but leaving the boat in for days at a time I wanted a better switch. I’ll still sometimes get up a 3am or so and go check on the boat. Why, I don’t know because if it had sunk, what the hell am I going to do at 3 am.

https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/water-witch-float-switch-101-12v-1528.html
 

Racey

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That's the problem with float switches, they require about 1.5" of water to turn on. The electronic pumps are 3/4" or less. The Water Witch is a mercury switch, but I don't know the turn-on depth.

I had a 1500 GPH electronic automatic pump in my flatbottom, wired with an on-off-momentary switch and a smaller 500 GPH electronic automatic pump wired to an on-off switch.

The bigger pump was plumbed to a 1" through hull fitting. A 1500 GPH pumps 25 GPM, and the 500 pumps 8.4 GPM, for a total over a gallon every two seconds. If you have a flattie, jet boat, or picklefork, a single 500 GPH pump isn't going to do shit if you take a wave over the gunwales or transom.

Water witch is not a mercury switch, it measures current through the bilge water between two electrical conductors. No moving parts.
 

Tittyman

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Actually a great idea leave the auto for overnight or while floating then have the manual for extra emergency.But IMO if a rule 500 automatic cant keep up your already in trouble.You can also use the rule auto manually if you turn it off then again turn it back on it will cycle.I just like the idea of no float switch,water witch,or whatever else is out there in 30 plus years of boating ive seen them all or used some of them simple compact auto is hard to beat
So from those who have used the newer electronic pump that checks for water every 2.5 minutes are trouble free with no issues of battery drain and work without issues...guess that's the way I will go. As long as they are a simple system, trouble free. Just don't want to check my boat and have one spare battery drained...sounds like the Water Witch switch does the same thing as the Rule Electronic pump but in one complete package....thanks.
 

wzuber

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Get rid of the bullshit mechanical float and use a Water Witch to trigger the pump. Problem solved. Never seen a Water Witch fail.
exactly...great, simple little device and allows you to run basically any size/type pump you want.
 

SoCalDave

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Water witch is not a mercury switch, it measures current through the bilge water between two electrical conductors. No moving parts.
This is what I installed WHEN I HAD A BOAT...
 

boatdoc55

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Get rid of the bullshit mechanical float and use a Water Witch to trigger the pump. Problem solved. Never seen a Water Witch fail.
Racey, I have seen two fail but that was when they first put them out. I believe the company was in San Diego or some where down that way. They sent me new ones overnight and paid to have them shipped back to see what went wrong. Never did hear anything from them but didn't think I would. I used them up until I retired and never had another problem after the early ones.
 

wzuber

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Racey, I have seen two fail but that was when they first put them out. I believe the company was in San Diego or some where down that way. They sent me new ones overnight and paid to have them shipped back to see what went wrong. Never did hear anything from them but didn't think I would. I used them up until I retired and never had another problem after the early ones.
yep, customer service is top notch. I hung mine on an alum. bracket I made at the front end of the intake adapter in my jet boat to get it as low as I could with a clean install. On final install I unknowingly pinched one of the 2 wires between the plastic body and bracket. After several months of use it cut thru the wire about an 1/8" outside the body. I called them, told them how I phocked up and asked if I could send in for repair. They said no problem we'll send you a new replacement just send yours back. I was pleasantly surprised to say the least. Great family owned bus. out of the San Diego area with a great product.
 

FROGMAN524

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Having both of mine replaced today as one doesn’t work and the other does. They’re probably original 500GPH pumps that are 14 years old. Think we’re probably doing two more Rule 500GPH electronic units.


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$hot

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the water witch is great, I have mine set up to turn on automatically and the switch is a manual override.
 

Shlbyntro

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Can you wire in a 3 way switch and use it manual or automatic or in the off position so it will not turn on...I have an 18' Sanger Pickle Fork..is the 500 gph enough or do I need to go larger..I have 2 pumps now. 1 automatic with the standard float switch and one manual. It seems the one with the automatic float switch allows too much water before it turns on.

Yes you can. Run the brown wire (auto i believe) to one side of a 3wire, on/off/on switch and the brown/white wire (manual) to the other side with fused (+) in the middle. Ground the pump to any good ground source.
 

ka0tyk

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They are better than a float switch because trash in the bilge can defeat the float operation. Also if the splices to the switch wiring lay on the floor of the bilge, which is common, the connections corrode and the pump fails to operate.

or you could keep a clean bilge and get the wiring up off the floor laying in water with waterproof solder/buttconnector splicing. why do people always half ass things that could sink the entire boat?
 

rrrr

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or you could keep a clean bilge and get the wiring up off the floor laying in water with waterproof solder/buttconnector splicing. why do people always half ass things that could sink the entire boat?

Don't ask me. I've been using Ancor Marine wiring products for 25 years. My answer was regarding the average boat.
 
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