Bpracing rzr turbo s big summer project

[Bpracing1127]

Figured I’ll start a thread on my summer project for my rzr turbo s4

I now have 4700 miles on the machine and after a 2300 mile season it’s time for preventative maintenance more than just oils and filters

One big difference project is getting my turbo rebuilt with new bearings and seals. I will also be putting a new compressor wheel on ( billet) too for a little more HP. This is a fairly major project due to the workable space and that exhaust bolts tend to break on these.

On my peace trail ride I blew a belt and it blew a hole in my inner clutch cover so that needs to be replaced. I also noticed it was rubbing on the drive shaft output from the tansmission too.

Once I got the clutches off I notice I have a small oil leak from the seal on the trans input shaft. I’ll get that replaced so it doesn’t leak more oil into the clutch housing.

Looking at my clutches my primary is showing a little sign of roller wear but nothing crazy. I am on the fence if I am going to run it or buy a new primary. I will be replacing all the wearable sliders in the primary and secondary as well.

After all of that I will have my front/rear shocks rebuilt with new seals. Rears need a slight valving change at near full bump (too soft) mid stroke is good tho And rebound seems good.

Moving onto the front of the car. I will be replacing the rack after scoring a deal on a bran new shock therapy billet race rack. More on that later.

Also modified my harbor freight Jack for the pro eagle extension ( I should have done this a long time ago)

 

[Bpracing1127]

Update. Since it was soo close to getting the tranny out I decided to take it out so I can get it freshened up with good bearings and new seals. The bearings are prone to failure in these so might as well do it.

 

[idk]

Im having my shocks repaired and revalved at DC shocks right now I blew 2 of them and I'm doing RCV pro 300m ball joints too my uppers are very loose. I put 2000 miles on mine since i met you last year at Josh's it added up fast.

 

[Deckin Around]

I am inspired, I have to go through a bunch of toys and my jeep this summer.
I did the same thing to the inner and outer clutch housing on my Can-Am. It’s all plastic but mine broke two of the cast ears on the trans case off where the bolts attach the inner cover to the trans

 

[Bpracing1127]

Im having my shocks repaired and revalved at DC shocks right now I blew 2 of them and I'm doing RCV pro 300m ball joints too my uppers are very loose. I put 2000 miles on mine since i met you last year at Josh's it added up fast.

I did the 300m super atv ball joints last summer. All tight still. Not cheap but worth it

 

[Boatymcboatface]

This thread it great! I’ve got the same car so will be following. Not to bad for as hard as it seems you run this car. Mines got 900 miles once I finish the boat prep for this summer I’ll be coming in checking on updates.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Sorry all, I had appendicitis a couple weeks ago so my time in the garage has been limited. I did get the exhaust header removed and all the heat shielding around the turbo.

Shielding removed to access the header bolts, I soaked them with PB blaster and applied heat over several days before attempting to remove.

2 came out pretty easy and 2 didn’t move. I added more PB and more heat and still didn’t move. They eventually snapped off. Not a huge deal really

Once I got the header out of the way. I can now access the manifold off the cylinder head. As you can see we have two more Allen bolts on the bottom side of the manifold. The shape of the manifold makes this tricky. I am going to try long ball Allen sockets to get these off. If these two come off the rest of the bolts and brackets are a piece of cake.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Alright some more progress. Turbo is out. You will need a ball Allen set to get to two bolts. Luckily they are not tight at all. I ended up taking the turbo with the bracket off as a whole because there is one bolt that you can’t get to because the air box is in the way. Even with a stubby wrench it wasn’t going to happen. No big deal.

Here is the two bolts needed for ball Allen set. They are under the exhaust manifold and space is limited

Here is the turbo unit with the exhaust manifold. It is all one piece

 

[Bpracing1127]

Update. I finally was able to make to SD to pick up my parts. They were ready with in a week for the tranny and 2 weeks for the turbo.

Tranny went to benchmark in Ramona for rebuild with the new bearings. Being fully transparent the cost was $1030 bucks and the tranny was in working condition when I took it to them.

I took the turbo to TPR in santee and they don’t rebuild turbos so down the street to Alba (original plan) to have my turbo disassembled and rebuilt with new seals, bearings and new billet compressor wheel. As you can see from the pictures this shines like a new penny again. They did a fantastic job for $614.

I also ordered all new bolts and gaskets for the the rebuild even new suspension bolts. I look on the internet high and low for aftermarket ones but came up short or stupid pricey for ARP ones. So OEM it is and new OEM gaskets for the exhaust system.

When I was at TPR I picked up their manual timing chain tensioner as well

 

[DunePilot]

My 2¢

I'd replace the turbo actuator pod with aftermarket since you have the turbo out. The OEM's are a bit cheezy and it is a REAL PITA to replace once back on the machine. Been there.

And don't foget to replace the copper washer in the banjo bolt that holds the turbo oil feed line if it wasn't already. It will likely leak if you don't. Been there too.

Also: what caused the damage to your turbo in the first place? I ask because I have a 2020 Turbo S4.

 

[DLC]

Looking good!

going to be a New RZR when you get it back together

 

[Bpracing1127]

My 2¢

I'd replace the turbo actuator pod with aftermarket since you have the turbo out. The OEM's are a bit cheezy and it is a REAL PITA to replace once back on the machine. Been there.

And don't foget to replace the copper washer in the banjo bolt that holds the turbo oil feed line if it wasn't already. It will likely leak if you don't. Been there too.

Also: what caused the damage to your turbo in the first place? I ask because I have a 2020 Turbo S4.

I am already replacing the copper washers (2)

I will look into the actuator pod? (You mean wastegate? )

Not sure what caused the damage. I put on the j tube and charge tube and noticed it then.

 

[crzy2bealive]

Just ordered the TPR timing chain tensioner

 

[DunePilot]

I am already replacing the copper washers (2)

I will look into the actuator pod? (You mean wastegate? )

Not sure what caused the damage. I put on the j tube and charge tube and noticed it then.

Yes. Waste gate actuator pod.

 

[Bpracing1127]

New wastegate from AA installed. Oem one should have 5-5.5 crack pressure. Mine was down one psi. At 4-4.5. Leaving power on the table.

New one set a 6.5 crack psi

 

[DLC]

Looks nice and clean can’t wait to see how she runs

 

[DunePilot]

New wastegate from AA installed. Oem one should have 5-5.5 crack pressure. Mine was down one psi. At 4-4.5. Leaving power on the table.

New one set a 6.5 crack psi View attachment 1245668 View attachment 1245669

IIRC we had to trim the OEM turbo support bracket a bit with a flap wheel because the AA bracket was not a perfect fit. Nothing major just a heads up.

 

[Bpracing1127]

IIRC we had to trim the OEM turbo support bracket a bit with a flap wheel because the AA bracket was not a perfect fit. Nothing major just a heads up.

no trimming on my end, easy fitment. I think having the whole turbo and bracket out makes it a lot easier to install too.

 

[DunePilot]

no trimming on my end, easy fitment. I think having the whole turbo and bracket out makes it a lot easier to install too.

I mean the bracket that attaches to the frame on the bottom and turbo at the top

 

[Bpracing1127]

I mean the bracket that attaches to the frame on the bottom and turbo at the top

Yep, knew what you meant. No issues there too. Bolted right up

 

[Bpracing1127]

Update. Turbo is fully in. Had to remove tranny and lower skid plate to get the rear drive shaft to line up with the splines at the carrier bearing. Wasn’t a big deal but had to go backwards to go forwards. Now drive shaft is bolted up and tranny is in and loosely bolted up with clutch cover (inner) on as well. Should have the tranny bolted up and done very soon here.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Trans is bolted in and inner clutch cover is now on. Have to be careful when you do the clutch cover as it will pinch some wires running between it and the motor. I had to redo it twice as I didn’t catch it until later. At least it’s done right. Bolted radius rods back up as well. Clutch is just sitting there and not bolted up.

I also ordered turbo back Trinity exhaust but the coupler that bolts to the turbo is missing the spring hooks to keep the pipe to the mufflers on. So I’ll take it back to Trinity to get replaced or fixed no big deal. I also ordered the wrong exhaust gasket too.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Ok new update. Clutches are on and torqued down. I bought brand new clutch bolts and washers for these as well. Now it’s time to start fitting the new oem clutch cover. This cover will also get a new dyno jet belt temp sensor to display on my tuner as well.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Well got it on its own tires again. And installed the exhaust. Fired it up and I have a CEL from the boost controller. Plugged in the old one (that I broke) and CEL went away. So I’ll call AA Monday. I should have the interior back in this weekend and flipped around to start on the front end

 

[Bpracing1127]

Started tearing apart the front end today

 

[Bpracing1127]

New update today, removed the OEM steering rack and the new shock therapy race rack is going in.

Old rack wasn’t too hard to remove. You don’t need to remove the an arms but since I putting in new bushings I went ahead and removed them as it just that much easier.

 

[DLC]

How do you like the right angle impact?

I think they work pretty good!

 

[DLC]

Oh Nice Rack !!

 

[DunePilot]

New update today, removed the OEM steering rack and the new shock therapy race rack is going in.

Old rack wasn’t too hard to remove. You don’t need to remove the an arms but since I putting in new bushings I went ahead and removed them as it just that much easier.
View attachment 1260300 View attachment 1260301 View attachment 1260302

What is the advantage of the ST rack?

 

[Bpracing1127]

How do you like the right angle impact?

I think they work pretty good!

Working pretty good, lacking some power tho

 

[Bpracing1127]

What is the advantage of the ST rack?

For me. I am running aftermarket tie rods and the inner joint (aftermarket) keeps failing and getting sloppy. So this gets rid of the ball socket and goes to heim and clevis. And eliminating that failure point. Also this rack is lock to lock in 1.5 turns vs 2 turns in OEM.

I scored on this rack and couldn’t pass it up. These are 1k brand new. I got it for just over half of that brand new

 

[Bpracing1127]

Been a while since my last update. I took the shocks to DC to be rebuilt. Had them make a small valving change on the rears while they pulled them apart. They had 3200 miles on them (all 4) and it was time for a rebuild. Took about 2 weeks as we had to order new external bumps for the rears.

In the mean time I got the new steering rack installed and all new bushings for the front arms. I went with garage products for those and they turned out awesome and very high quality. Not having a press made that a chore but got it done.

Also ordered new steering heims at the spindle too as the ones I had were showing signs of slight slop

Greased the front bearings and during my put together process I noticed the west clips on the front brakes were broken so I ordered new ones of those and got those installed.

From there I decided to riv nut the front brake lines to the arm vs rivet. Ordered a new kit and went to town with 4mm riv nuts.

All new hardware for the arms, shocks, sway bar end links has been put on the car front to back.

Circling back on another issue I had earlier was the boost controller. AA shipped me a new one and it is working now so thanks to AA for the great customer service.


As this project is winding down, I still have a ton of work left to do

Finish front end sway bar links
Do an alignment
Grease new rack
Grease drive Line
Installed skid plate
Flush brake fluid for all 4 corners
Front diff oil
Rear sway bar links
Install rear shocks
Fox rear fascia
New license plate location
Button up boost controller
Rebuild clutches
New spark plugs
New battery
Fix front door latches
Button up interior

 

[DunePilot]

I had a problem with AA’s boost controller. The resistance was out of spec and put me in limp mode along with a CEL. Swapped back to OEM and problem solved.

So I advise checking that before installing.

You went to DC? Are you in So Cal?

 

[DLC]

Looking good!

5 weeks !

 

[Bpracing1127]

I had a problem with AA’s boost controller. The resistance was out of spec and put me in limp mode along with a CEL. Swapped back to OEM and problem solved.

So I advise checking that before installing.

You went to DC? Are you in So Cal?

Yep, Orange County. The AA one that was bad just didn’t work. When I metered it. It came back null.

 

[DunePilot]

Yep, Orange County. The AA one that was bad just didn’t work. When I metered it. It came back null.

All I can say is to make sure that it’s in spec because the system doesn’t appear to be forgiving on that.

Seeing how you also got a bad one makes me wonder if an AA boost controller is to be avoided.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Ok another update. We are getting super close. I installed my new TPR manual timing chain tensioner today. Super easy to do and piece of mind that this won’t fail like the stock hydraulic one

 

[DLC]

Looking good!

 

[DunePilot]

Just in time for Glamis season...

 

[Bpracing1127]

Well just finished up today! All done. Car is good to go.

Recap of what was done

Pulled tranny to have it gone through and new Japanese bearings put in
Pulled turbo to have it rebuilt at Alba
New exhaust from Trinity
New wastegate
New primary clutch with new clutch kit installed
New sliders in secondary
New clutch back plate
New clutch cover
New belt temp sensor
Fixed rear fascia
Relocated license plate
New shock therapy steering rack
All new bushings in front a arms
Rebuilt ball joints
All new suspension hardware for all arms, radius rods, shocks, sway bar links
New battery
Shocks rebuilt and rears revalved

Complete service of all oil, filters and lube chassis

Started this thing in April and many nights. I didn’t loose any 10 mm sockets but a lot of eff bombs were thrown around.

I did this to do a full prep on the car to get ready for another 3000-5000 mile season.

I’ll have 2k miles by x mas this year.

Would I do it again. Yep but it was a lot more than I expected

 

[Socalx09]

Wow that was a long list of tasks! I remember you listing everything you wanted to do when we picked up the methods from you. Great job!

 

[Bpracing1127]

Wanted to update this thread. I recently just did a Prescott/crown king ride and I had zero issues. 400 miles and not one issue. The ride had plenty of issues such as engine failure, tranny failure, ball joint, 7 flats, electrical and
More.
Prep is the key to maintenance free rides

Learning from others

Check your ball joints often. Check steering
Grease wheel bearings and check for play

Some stuff just happens and there isn’t anything you can do about it.

 

[DLC]

Just don’t hit the big Rock that someone didn’t see…..

I’ve come to the realization - ball joints stay in tact if you don’t hit rocks….


Wheel bearings are a totally different discussion….