Bravo 1 Trim Cylinder/Ram... How Difficult to Rebuild

[RVR2SNO]

RDPers...

My starboard trim cylinder/ram is seeping. I have a couple spots on my driveway. I suspect an internal seal of the cylinder/trim ram gave out. In looking at the Bravo 1 manual, there are directions for taking it apart and putting it together. Also, I see there are seal kits as well as overhaul kits available.

My questions is how difficult is it to do this repair? Has anyone done it? Seal kit vs. overhaul kit? I'm pretty handy and do all the maintenance on the boat myself, and would rather try to do it than take it to shop where they'll charge me $85/hr labor.

I appreciate any advice?

Thank you!

 

[schiadastan]

RDPers...

My starboard trim cylinder/ram is seeping. I have a couple spots on my driveway. I suspect an internal seal of the cylinder/trim ram gave out. In looking at the Bravo 1 manual, there are directions for taking it apart and putting it together. Also, I see there are seal kits as well as overhaul kits available.

My questions is how difficult is it to do this repair? Has anyone done it? Seal kit vs. overhaul kit? I'm pretty handy and do all the maintenance on the boat myself, and would rather try to do it than take it to shop where they'll charge me $85/hr labor.

I appreciate any advice?

Thank you!

Hi there; not hard to do you just need the right tools . Merc. has rebuild kits for them and you can order them thru , boostpower, teague's or Quality performance. also check they might have a used one for sale or the price of a new one. good luck

 

[Ragged Edge]

Yeah. Not too difficult with the correct tools. Unless the boat was run a lot in or moored in salt water. Then just buy a rebuilt or new one and save yourself the headache. They are a bitch to get apart if salt has got to them.

 

[Chico&Zeus]

Not hard at all... here is a quick tip:

If you don't have the spanner wrench to get the end cap loose... just leave the zinc anode on and use a pipe wrench on it. Once the cap is loose, you can unbolt the anode.

Replace all the O-rings, don't lose the 3 little check balls from the assembly at the end of the shaft and pay attention to how everything came apart. There are Internal O-rings on some parts, just look everywhere. I never replace that copper wire deal... and getting that one internal snap ring back into place is the hardest part of the whole damn deal.

Oh yea, when you are re-installing them onto the drive... pay attention to the angle on the cylinder eyes... they are welded onto the ram-shaft at an angle and they have to be installed the correct way for the bushings to line up.

 

[RVR2SNO]

Boat has not been in salt but I'll search around for a used one and save the headache.

 

[Chico&Zeus]

Once they are off the drive... it can be done in less than 15 minutes. I just did all four of mine this year because 3 of the 4 were leaking.

I wish you were closer, I'd give you a hand.

 

[Racey]

Most difficult part is getting them apart initially, and then cleaning up the oil. I leave them attached at the transom and disassemble them on the boat. Snap-On makes a spreading spanner wrench that costs about 60 bucks, it is dual sided (for 1/4" and 3/16" spanner pins) works bitchin for this, and then you aren't stuck with a one job tool. Clean the shafts real good with a fine scotch pad before you put them back together that way there are no impurities to screw the seals up again.

 

[BoostPower]

We usually swap them out with new. Yes rebuilding them is cool
For some, however the shafts wear along with the fatigue and we have had several start leaking soon after a rebuild. Our rule is to just replace them. If not, a close inspection of the shaft is necessary. I guess when you do the volume of them we do, we do not want to see them back leaking. 👍


Sent from My Boostpower Marine Efi Beacon.

 

[Boat 405]

One of my trim cylinders was leaking at my last trip when I got to lake powell a few weeks ago. Went to the lake and came home and didn't see any more drops on the floor behind the boat. Well today I thought it was more water dripping out of the outdrive, but it was oil. Ran down to West Marine and got a seal kit.

I didn't have the spanner wrench but I did lightly use a pipe wrench on the anode while it was still attached to the ram. Easily loosened it and took the entire ram off the boat and rebuilt it on the work bench in about 20 mins going slow and keeping everything in order. Easy process, not much to it. I did inspect the shaft for any real signs of wear, but really nothing major that I could find. I used a bit of scotch bright pad and cleaned up any minor wear spots. If I had to do one again I think I could do it in about 10 mins after I removed the ram from the boat.

I would way rather attempt this before shelling out several hundred for a new ram. At least if it continues to leak I can say I tried and spent the $20 bucks and an hour on a sunday to rebuild it before replacing it.

 

[prosthogod]

One of my trim cylinders was leaking at my last trip when I got to lake powell a few weeks ago. Went to the lake and came home and didn't see any more drops on the floor behind the boat. Well today I thought it was more water dripping out of the outdrive, but it was oil. Ran down to West Marine and got a seal kit.

I didn't have the spanner wrench but I did lightly use a pipe wrench on the anode while it was still attached to the ram. Easily loosened it and took the entire ram off the boat and rebuilt it on the work bench in about 20 mins going slow and keeping everything in order. Easy process, not much to it. I did inspect the shaft for any real signs of wear, but really nothing major that I could find. I used a bit of scotch bright pad and cleaned up any minor wear spots. If I had to do one again I think I could do it in about 10 mins after I removed the ram from the boat.

I would way rather attempt this before shelling out several hundred for a new ram. At least if it continues to leak I can say I tried and spent the $20 bucks and an hour on a sunday to rebuild it before replacing it.

By the way a standard AR15 wrench works also.

 

[Jimmy]

Just get the seal kit.
Use a rag and multi grips to get the end cap off.
I used medium duty loctite 243 to secure the bolt onto the shaft when putting it back together too.

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

I need to rebuild a few of my trim cylinders I get the down and dirty of rebuild the cylinder.

What is the process when you get the cylinder back on do you just keep your trim pump reservoir full and cycle it up and down or do you need to do something else?

 

[Shlbyntro]

I need to rebuild a few of my trim cylinders I get the down and dirty of rebuild the cylinder.

What is the process when you get the cylinder back on do you just keep your trim pump reservoir full and cycle it up and down or do you need to do something else?

You want to keep doing short bumps up until you hear the pump change pitch (means its grabbed air) stop there. Refill resorvoir to only about half way. Continue this process until drive is all the way up. Then short bumps down, again listening for pitch change in the pump. Once drive is all the way down, you can fill the reservoir to the full line. Repeat the process 4-5 times in both directions, checking and filling reservoir to the full line each time the drive goes back to the full down position.

Let stand for about an hour with the drive down. Check and fill fluid to the full line. Now you can run the drive up and down continuously about 3 times.

Check fluid again the next morning. And good to go

 

[guest hs]

Not hard at all... here is a quick tip:

If you don't have the spanner wrench to get the end cap loose... just leave the zinc anode on and use a pipe wrench on it. Once the cap is loose, you can unbolt the anode.

Replace all the O-rings, don't lose the 3 little check balls from the assembly at the end of the shaft and pay attention to how everything came apart. There are Internal O-rings on some parts, just look everywhere. I never replace that copper wire deal... and getting that one internal snap ring back into place is the hardest part of the whole damn deal.

Oh yea, when you are re-installing them onto the drive... pay attention to the angle on the cylinder eyes... they are welded onto the ram-shaft at an angle and they have to be installed the correct way for the bushings to line up.

That copper wire deal you are talking about is a ground clip and should be used.

 

[SS-C]

What are you going to refill with, trim fluid, or motor oil?

My Bravo manual says either use power trim fluid or 10-40 motor oil.

What would the difference be in how the trim reacts with one versus the other?

Seems the trim fluid is much thinner than motor oil thus causing the possibility of early leaking problems?

 

[Shlbyntro]

I use ATF

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

I use ATF

Yeah I just saw the ask about what oil to use and I have heard from a couple other sources atf is fine to use.

 

[BDMar]

Use Merc Power steering and trim fluid. Trans fluid had detergents in it. Merc fluid has additives that help prevent foaming and resists water contamination.

 

[MSum661]

By the way a standard AR15 wrench works also.

Just wanted to thank you for the tip!
I pulled out the AR-15 multi-wrench today using the 3 pins that are attached to it and sure enough it spun off the trim cylinder end caps with zero hassle and effort.


Also, I took Racey's suggestion and left the housings attached to the transom to remove the caps and that worked great as well.


Good deal, Thanks again to both of you.

 

[MagicMan]

Had a leaking trim cylinder, I replaced the seals. I went to reinstall and ended up installing the cylinder eye the wrong way. I could tell some thing was wrong tried raising and lowering to bleed air but kept hangin up coming down. I realized, I installed eyelit wrong and turned it the correct way. Ive tried bleeding the air but again the trim hanging up going down. I finally decided to remove the trim rams from their mounts and observe them operate freely, the rebuilt cylinder will not go down. Ive bled the cylinder several times. The cylinder goes up no problem but will not actuate down. Any suggestioms?

 

[SoCalDave]

Interesting thread but damn, resurrection from 202...

 

[Fun Times]

Had a leaking trim cylinder, I replaced the seals. I went to reinstall and ended up installing the cylinder eye the wrong way. I could tell some thing was wrong tried raising and lowering to bleed air but kept hangin up coming down. I realized, I installed eyelit wrong and turned it the correct way. Ive tried bleeding the air but again the trim hanging up going down. I finally decided to remove the trim rams from their mounts and observe them operate freely, the rebuilt cylinder will not go down. Ive bled the cylinder several times. The cylinder goes up no problem but will not actuate down. Any suggestioms?

If you're sure none of the ram rams aren't bent, have corrosion say at the cylinder end caps, turned the correct way then possibly you either still have air in the system as not bleeding them correctly after rebuilding or maybe an issue with the down valve inside the trim pump adaptor unit.

The following is of a section of a Bravo service manual that can guide you through troubleshooting testings of the trim system, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1348074/Mercury-Bravo.html?page=401#manual

But because you rebuilt the cylinders, try following the other proper bleeding gridlines to see if it helps any, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1348074/Mercury-Bravo.html?page=405#manual

14. Loosen the nuts that secure the trim cylinders to the forward anchor pins. Move the cylinder pivot ends outward and place them over the aft anchor pin,

Mercury BRAVO Service Manual (Page 95 of 598) | ManualsLib

www.manualslib.com

Trim pump not working in down position

I have a 1989 Alpha one mercruser stern drive and just this weekend the trim pump has stopped working in the down position. Unit comes up just fine but no downward movement. When trying to get the unit to go down, the pump sounds different than it does in the up cycle. The unit worked fine last...

forums.iboats.com

 

[mattyc]

Had a leaking trim cylinder, I replaced the seals. I went to reinstall and ended up installing the cylinder eye the wrong way. I could tell some thing was wrong tried raising and lowering to bleed air but kept hangin up coming down. I realized, I installed eyelit wrong and turned it the correct way. Ive tried bleeding the air but again the trim hanging up going down. I finally decided to remove the trim rams from their mounts and observe them operate freely, the rebuilt cylinder will not go down. Ive bled the cylinder several times. The cylinder goes up no problem but will not actuate down. Any suggestioms?

Was this an issue prior to reseal? If not, you may want to consider taking it apart and double check your work. Make sure your seals are installed right and didn't get damaged on the way in.

 

[MagicMan]

I removed the trim cylinder checked components and seals all ok, I also did a ton of research and found manual and how to properly bleed cylinder. After following instructions, trim cylinder going up and down properly. Now I have a knocking sound as I trim in either direction, sounds like the knocking is coming from the trim manifold on the gimbal Ring. May I still have air, ran out of time last night. I only bled the cylinder I repaired. Should I bleed both?

 

[mattyc]

I removed the trim cylinder checked components and seals all ok, I also did a ton of research and found manual and how to properly bleed cylinder. After following instructions, trim cylinder going up and down properly. Now I have a knocking sound as I trim in either direction, sounds like the knocking is coming from the trim manifold on the gimbal Ring. May I still have air, ran out of time last night. I only bled the cylinder I repaired. Should I bleed both?

Gosh, I wish I could be more help. It's been awhile since I resealed some but didnt have any difficulty bleeding. Hard to offer anything on the knocking without hearing it. Very possible it's simply air that hasnt worked out yet. Hopefully someone a little more fresh on this chimes in

 

[MagicMan]

Good news, ran drive up and down this morning still heard the knocking noise. Left the drive up went to work came back ready to bleed both sides and ran drive no more knocking. Looks like the air bled itself out. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[MagicMan]

Update, following day found oil on floor, had to rebuild the other trim cylinder. I was a pro by then, got new seals knocked it out in a couple hours. Get to the lake next day. Run through channel heading to sand bar and noticed my drive wouldn’t stay up when I trimmed up. Apparently, one of the hoses on my starboard trim came loose. I ended buying more trim fluid, bled the cylinder of air not too much water and reconnected the hose. I believe the hose may have got loose when I turned the drive back n forth, may have kinked up on the other hose. Just something to keep in mind if anyone is working on the cylinders. I did not have any more issues with trim the rest of my weekend.

 

[Meaney77]

Update, following day found oil on floor, had to rebuild the other trim cylinder. I was a pro by then, got new seals knocked it out in a couple hours. Get to the lake next day. Run through channel heading to sand bar and noticed my drive wouldn’t stay up when I trimmed up. Apparently, one of the hoses on my starboard trim came loose. I ended buying more trim fluid, bled the cylinder of air not too much water and reconnected the hose. I believe the hose may have got loose when I turned the drive back n forth, may have kinked up on the other hose. Just something to keep in mind if anyone is working on the cylinders. I did not have any more issues with trim the rest of my weekend.

Where did you buy parts? Do you have part numbers?

 

[MagicMan]

I purchased parts at daves marine chino. You can buy online

25-87400A 2 - O-Ring Kit​