Cypress Bunks Instead of Pine. NOPE!!

[shunter2005]

I am going to replace my bunks and carpet on the trailer this winter. I thought, what the heck, let me price out some cypress 2X's if I can find them and should never have to replace boards again. Found some yesterday, and they want $9.60 per linear foot to mill cypress planks into 2X's. Around $600 just for boards. I think treated pine will do just fine after all.

So, when you recover your trailer bunks, is it better to cover the entire bunk with carpet or leave an open area on the bottom to better drain water? I have heard and done it both ways without problems, but was wondering which way would be better or if it really matters. Is it just personal preference?

 

[lebel409]

Redwood will do much better than pine...cheaper than Cypress.

 

[wsuwrhr]

I made the bunks for the Anthony jet out of redwood.

I am going to replace my bunks and carpet on the trailer this winter. I thought, what the heck, let me price out some cypress 2X's if I can find them and should never have to replace boards again. Found some yesterday, and they want $9.60 per linear foot to mill cypress planks into 2X's. Around $600 just for boards. I think treated pine will do just fine after all.

So, when you recover your trailer bunks, is it better to cover the entire bunk with carpet or leave an open area on the bottom to better drain water? I have heard and done it both ways without problems, but was wondering which way would be better or if it really matters. Is it just personal preference?

 

[jetboatperformance]

We use Clear Fir and leave the bottoms largely exposed , cant hurt to treat them (Thompsons)

 

[guest hs]

Redwood and leave the underside of the bunk exposed.

 

[Andy01]

Why not the green pressure treated? That's what I've used in the past.

 

[Runs2rch]

Number one pressure treated.

 

[Constant840]

I used Kiln dried pine for my tritoon bunks. I think 6 20' sticks were $300 or so. Was going to use pressure treated and began to doubt the compatibility of the treated lumber and aluminum toons.
Bought rolls of precut carpet and stainless staples off of Amazon. New stainless nuts bolts and lags.
All totaled right around $600. If I did it again I'd buy a power stapler.
Three seasons later two bunks have rips. I'm thinking bare wood capped with white poly strips and counter sunk hardware.

Remember to roll the edge of carpet under before stapling. Its cleaner and will help avoid future unraveling problems.

 

[Big B Hova]

Personally I'd use an exotic wood like Ipe, with mininum 5 coats of sealer. This will pair well with any 3 axle schiada trailer with frenched in LED lights.

 

[RCDave]

IF, you are re-bunking straight runners (like on a tunnel hull) and not tapered runners, I'd use Iron Wood. Its an extremely hard, dense, and virtually waterproof wood from South America.

You'd never have to re-bunk again using this stuff.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

IF, you are re-bunking straight runners (like on a tunnel hull) and not tapered runners, I'd use Iron Wood. Its an extremely hard, dense, and virtually waterproof wood from South America.

You'd never have to re-bunk again using this stuff.

But how would you attach the carpet? From what I have heard it's extremely difficult to use any fasteners on it. I'd imagine a staple gun wouldn't stand a chance.

 

[RCDave]

But how would you attach the carpet? From what I have heard it's extremely difficult to use any fasteners on it. I'd imagine a staple gun wouldn't stand a chance.

I used a power stapler with stainless staples. it worked great but needed a lot of hand pressure on the staple gun.

 

[Big B Hova]

IF, you are re-bunking straight runners (like on a tunnel hull) and not tapered runners, I'd use Iron Wood. Its an extremely hard, dense, and virtually waterproof wood from South America.

You'd never have to re-bunk again using this stuff.

Ironwood / Ipe are from the same family. But it's hard to bend though..

 

[rivermobster]

I did my toon trailer a couple years ago. Boy that was a Whole lotta fun!!!

Pressure treated lumber. Bunk carpet I picked up at Hallett. Stainless staples. Stainless bolts and washers through out. Couple of drills. Clamps, skill saw, hole saws to counter sink all the bolt heads and drill bits. Electric impacts. Electric stapler. Raw fingers. Back jacked. Endless patience. Three days of work, not including the hours of prep, making sure I had everything, and running around picking up all of the stuff that I needed.

Next time I'll pay someone. Lesson learned. :thumbsdown

 

[rivermobster]

 

[rivermobster]

 

[pronstar]

But how would you attach the carpet? From what I have heard it's extremely difficult to use any fasteners on it. I'd imagine a staple gun wouldn't stand a chance.

Shitload of adhesive, would that work?

 

[rivermobster]

 

[rivermobster]

And don't forget hours to clean up the mess, and put everything you used away!

Still wanna do it yourself? [emoji13]

 

[Backlash]

If you have a boat that you plan on keeping for awhile or you want to have a mean-ass selling point when you do sell, go with a quality lumber. Don't use the $4 pine 2x4 from HD.

I will be covering this very topic when I do the bunks and supports for the Schiaward Ellis trailer.

 

[Big B Hova]

What about a vinyl 2x4 like Trex deck? No worries about rotting or termites.

 

[RCDave]

I don't believe Trex or similar has the structural strength

 

[Constant840]

I was worried about the pressure treatment having an affect on the aluminum toons.
You haven't noticed any galvanic corrosion or anything?

I did my toon trailer a couple years ago. Boy that was a Whole lotta fun!!!

Pressure treated lumber. Bunk carpet I picked up at Hallett. Stainless staples. Stainless bolts and washers through out. Couple of drills. Clamps, skill saw, hole saws to counter sink all the bolt heads and drill bits. Electric impacts. Electric stapler. Raw fingers. Back jacked. Endless patience. Three days of work, not including the hours of prep, making sure I had everything, and running around picking up all of the stuff that I needed.

Next time I'll pay someone. Lesson learned. :thumbsdown

 

[mjc]

Shitload of adhesive, would that work?

Last set I did I used that spray adhesive before I stapled everything

 

[rivermobster]

I was worried about the pressure treatment having an affect on the aluminum toons.
You haven't noticed any galvanic corrosion or anything?

Not yet. I was told stainless and pressure treat don't mix well either, But there was no way I was gonna use regular staples. I had a guy that does this for a living advise me on what to use. I just took it to the next level with the tricky stainless fastners.

 

[rrrr]

.

I used pressure treated lumber once, on a v-drive trailer. Never again. I had to sort through a huge stack of wood before I found four straight 2 X 6 X 16'. After it was finished, the chemicals in the boards continued to dry out, and the boards warped like crazy.

I had to redo them after a year, and used redwood. No problemo!

You know that v-drives are always on the trailer, gotta use something that will last! Stainless steel staples weren't good enough, I used Monel staples. arty:

 

[Flying_Lavey]

What about a vinyl 2x4 like Trex deck? No worries about rotting or termites.

I don't believe Trex or similar has the structural strength

I take it you've never picked up a trex deck board. They are damn near like cooked spaghetti. They would require the addition of a lot of supports and even then I think they'd create pressure points on the hull bottom.

 

[shunter2005]

So, did some checking on Redwood and there is very little here to be found here. Did find some about 250 mi. from me at $32 each for 18's. Not all that bad, but lumber guy said it may be too soft. He suggested using a hardwood like oak. Have never thought of using oak before. Has anyone ever used it?

 

[Constant840]

If you find oak lumber I'd imagine that it's going to be around $7 a foot.

So, did some checking on Redwood and there is very little here to be found here. Did find some about 250 mi. from me at $32 each for 18's. Not all that bad, but lumber guy said it may be too soft. He suggested using a hardwood like oak. Have never thought of using oak before. Has anyone ever used it?

 

[Big B Hova]

Not yet. I was told stainless and pressure treat don't mix well either, But there was no way I was gonna use regular staples. I had a guy that does this for a living advise me on what to use. I just took it to the next level with the tricky stainless fastners.

Pressure treated wood you have to use stainless hardware.. the chemicals corrode the galvanized hardware.

 

[rivermobster]

Pressure treated wood you have to use stainless hardware.. the chemicals corrode the galvanized hardware.

See?

Ask ten people and you'll get ten different answers. All I know for sure is, I'll never do it myself again! [emoji13]

 

[Big B Hova]

See?

Ask ten people and you'll get ten different answers. All I know for sure is, I'll never do it myself again! [emoji13]

I got this info from the inspector at work. I had to re-anchor pressure treated lumber with stainless hilti kbtz anchors. He failed the first anchors because they were galvanized.

 

[Willie B]

...Indoor outdoor/pressure-treated/stainless/Monell...

 

[rrrr]

I got this info from the inspector at work. I had to re-anchor pressure treated lumber with stainless hilti kbtz anchors. He failed the first anchors because they were galvanized.

That's not exactly accurate. You can use hot dip galvanized fasteners, but zinc plated fasteners will not last.

Here's what Simpson Strong Tie has to say about it:

What metals and protective coatings does the Treated Wood Industry recommend for use with these products?

Hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel fasteners, anchors and hardware are recommended by the Preservative Treated Wood Industry for use with treated wood. This has been the position of this industry for years and their position has not changed with the transition to the alternative copper-based products. In the past this industry did not address the required levels of galvanizing, however most of those in the industry now provide information regarding the minimum level of galvanizing that should be used.

The thicker the galvanized coating the longer the expected service life of the fastener, connector, anchor, or other hardware will be.

Electroplated / electro galvanized and mechanically galvanized coatings should not be considered to be hot-dip galvanized. (Class 55, or higher, mechanical galvanizing provides galvanizing equivalent to the hot-dip galvanizing used on connectors and fasteners. Ref. ASTM B695 for additional information.)

It is also worth noting that the galvanized coating thickness varies depending on the galvanizing process used. Remember, the thicker the galvanized coating, the longer the expected service life of the steel will be.

Refer to the different chemical manufacturers and/or treaters as well for their recommendations. A list of trade names is included at the bottom of this page.

.

 

[rrrr]

So, did some checking on Redwood and there is very little here to be found here. Did find some about 250 mi. from me at $32 each for 18's. Not all that bad, but lumber guy said it may be too soft. He suggested using a hardwood like oak. Have never thought of using oak before. Has anyone ever used it?

He's a lumber yard employee. What does he know about redwood and boat trailers? It is used all the time.

Using oak for trailer bunks is a bit of overkill. Not only is it heavy as hell, think of the fun that will break out when cutting, drilling, and putting fasteners in it.

 

[shunter2005]

He's a lumber yard employee. What does he know about redwood and boat trailers? It is used all the time.

Using oak for trailer bunks is a bit of overkill. Not only is it heavy as hell, think of the fun that will break out when cutting, drilling, and putting fasteners in it.

Well, he is in Texas and probably doesn't know much about Redwood. According to him, it's very difficult to get here and most places don't carry it. Like I said earlier, the only Redwood I could find is 250 mi. from me.

Not sure an electric stapler will penetrate. Guess that's why we use it mostly for furniture, firewood and bbq. I'll keep looking. Thanks

 

[rrrr]

It's been 25 years but I used to buy redwood at Sutherland Lumber. They were on Washington at I-10. Somebody in Houston has to sell it. It's rot resistant, and Houston is a perfect market for it.

 

[shunter2005]

It's been 25 years but I used to buy redwood at Sutherland Lumber. They were on Washington at I-10. Somebody in Houston has to sell it. It's rot resistant, and Houston is a perfect market for it.

That Sutherland location has been gone for many years. Apartments and offices there now. They have three other locations left over the state, but they don't carry redwood 2x's. No one here does (that I have found). They all say it's too difficult to get and very expensive. Cypress is the same. One company said they could order it from Louisiana and Mississippi, but when he found I only needed a few pieces, he said they wouldn't order for that amount.

 

[jones performance]

i did the binks on my ellis trailer for my cole ss i had in the late 90's. i used whatever home depot had cheapest for wood probably pine and counter sunk the bolts and then mixed up fiberglass resin and lathered em up, and while the resin was tacky put the carpet on and stapled and trimmed the edges. sold the boat a year later so dont know how they lasted.

 

[shunter2005]

In the end, I may wind up having to use pine (untreated) after all. If so, I will countersink the stainless bolts and seal them with Smith's epoxy filler, followed by several coats their clear penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES). Used this on my old mahogany boat and it is some great stuff. I happened to see it on my shelf last night. Forgot I still had some left.

 

[dribble]

Has anyone tried these?

https://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/

 

[shunter2005]

Has anyone tried these?

https://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/

Have read some things about them. They say they are great for aluminum boats but not so good for fiberglass. Saw pics of a glass boat with some big scratches. Again, just what I have read.

 

[dribble]

Have read some things about them. They say they are great for aluminum boats but not so good for fiberglass. Saw pics of a glass boat with some big scratches. Again, just what I have read.

That makes sense but you could probably carpet the top and sides of those and call it good.

 

[rrrr]

Did you try these guys?

http://www.buyredwood.com/detering-company-houston-lp

This company sells redwood but it's clear/all heart. Gonna be expensive.

http://www.clarkshardwood.com/products/softwoods/

 

[shunter2005]

Did you try these guys?

http://www.buyredwood.com/detering-company-houston-lp

This company sells redwood but it's clear/all heart. Gonna be expensive.

http://www.clarkshardwood.com/products/softwoods/

Yes. Clarks had cypress that was $10 a foot milled. I hadn't known about redwood at that time, so I didn't ask. They may have it, but it would have to be milled to size. High dollar.

By their website, I thought Detering was a wholesale bulk dealer, so I hadn't tried them. Called and they do not sell 2x's at all. They did refer to another lumber place. Called them and they carry cypress (no redwood). They can mill cypress to 2x's for just under $7 a foot (about $400 or so) for me. Much better, but still expensive. Supposed to be another mill not to far from where I keep the boat that also has cypress. Trying to find the name now and will check them out. It's crazy how few places here have anything other than pine, but we are near the piney woods of east Texas, so there is an almost endless supply of pine. Guess you guys have an abundance of available redwood out there. Redwood is almost non-existent here in 2x's and you have to have cypress (when you can find it) milled to size.

I just don't know if it's really worth it to spend the extra $$'s or not. I know that cypress will last a long time and I'm not adverse to spending the money, but the current boards have lasted 16 yrs. I haven't looked yet, but I would guess they are probably pine. Anyone know what type boards Extreme used in 2000? Anyway, if I use pine, seal them up and they last 16 or more years, they will probably outlast me or at least my ability to use the boat.

 

[RCDave]

Probably douglas fir.

 

[lebel409]

Do you have a friend with a table saw? Not a big deal to rip some boards from a large piece...

 

[shunter2005]

Hmmm!! That's not a bad idea. Hadn't even thought of that. Thanks.

 

[shunter2005]

Probably douglas fir.

Took a little drive today to look a some cypress. They didn't have anything milled but some 1x's. I was looking around and the manager asked me what I was looking for. Told him cypress, pine or fir. He says no cypress milled but they had some rough cut and could make some 2x's. No pine at all, which I didn't mind. Then he took me outside and showed be a bundle of rough cut fir in the clearance stack ($40 for the whole stack) all different sizes. Found 5 boards that I can cut down to 2x4's and be good to go. Wanted me to buy the whole bundle. Then he said he would break it up and sell me the 5 pieces I need for $20. All I have to do is rip 'em and plane 'em down. Think it's a steal....

 

[bajagrom]

Why not use Douglas Fir (something Cheap) and then resin over it? Then use a nail gun to staple the carpet. Resin is not that pricy. Plus you can get it Lowes or Home Depot?