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extending hitch or receiver to tow? need some expert advice!

pkrrvr619

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I have a bit of a dilemma and am hoping you guys might be able to help.

the wife wants to buy a rzr and use it in the local deserts etc. only problem is i don't have a toy hauler only a camping trailer so we would need to throw the rzr in the bed of the truck. my truck bed is only 6.5' long so the tailgate would have to be down. I'm worried that i will smash up my tailgate turning with the camping trailer so does anyone know of a quid way to add 6 inches to the hitch or receiver while maintaining safe towing?

this would need to be in conjunction with the weight distribution set up currently used for the trailer.
 

wsuwrhr

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Does the RZR reach your tailgate?

Is leaving the tailgate off an option?
 

wsuwrhr

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I use a hitch extender for my coach when I trailered my sportbike, but the tongueweight is marginal. I remember it being a 25% reduction in tongueweight rating.

I wouldn't do that in your case.
 

wsuwrhr

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Specs:
Designed for 2" x 2" trailer hitches
Measures 7-3/8" from the center of the hitch pin hole to the center of the hitch pin hole of the extension piece
Measures 11-5/8" long (overall)
Measures 2-1/2" from end of shank (that slides into hitch on vehicle) to center of hitch pin hole
Measures 2-1/8" from center of hitch pin hole to the 2" x 2" opening (for accessory)
Has weight capacity that is the lowest of the following ◦50% of the hitch's overall weight capacity
Load rating GTW 3,500 lbs; Tongue 350 lbs
Load rating with weight distribution equipment GTW 7000 lbs; Tongue 700 lbs


Please Note: Using a hitch extender will reduce your hitch's overall capacity by 50%.
 

Stainless

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If you have a 2.5" receiver on you truck Reese makes an extension that will work. I have two of them I used when I had a camper so I could pull a 24' Daytona. I didn't use a weight distribution system and it worked great. Just stay within the weight limits posted on the extension.
 

wsuwrhr

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The length overall is 11 5/8 inches. From the end of the shank that slides into the hitch on the vehicle to the center of the first pin hole is two and a half inches, and from the center of this pin hole to the two inch opening for the accessory is two and one-eighths of an inch. It has a weight capacity load rating gross towing weight of 3500 pounds and a tongue weight of 350 pounds. If your using weight distribution equipment it has a gross towing weight of 7000 pounds and a tongue weight of 700 pounds. Please note that whenever you use a hitch extender the rule of thumb is youre going to reduce your hitchs overall capacity by 50%.

For example, if your hitch has a capacity of 3000 pounds, using this extender is going to lower that to 1500 pounds. Were going to bring out our two inch receiver to show you how to work this item. Youre going to take the smaller end here, youre going to slide that right in, line up your holes there. Then you will take your five-eighths inch pin and clip, that you should already have. If you dont we do sell that separately, number PC3.

Just slide that in here, and then you will clip that off and youre good to go. Then you will slide in your ball mount, your trailer on this end, and youre ready to start towing. That should do it for the Brophy hitch extender for two inch trailer hitch receivers, number HE06.
 

McRib

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I wouldn't do it. Especially if you use the load bars and anti sway bar. You always want to keep your pivot as close to the tow vehicle as possible. What length travel trailer? Do you know yore tounge weight? Best thing to do before you make any decisions is hook your shit together then put the tailgate down and measure and drive around you streets and make sharp turns with someone in the bed watching. I will tell you one thing for sure. Unhooking and loading and unloading the rzr is gonna get OLD real fast! Trade up for a toybox.
 

Icky

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I would think about a toy hauler as well, if you do any dry camping ( no hook ups) the toy hauler typically have more fresh water capacity.
Here's a pic of a rack download (4).jpg
 

Ziggy

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If you have a 2.5" receiver on you truck Reese makes an extension that will work. I have two of them I used when I had a camper so I could pull a 24' Daytona. I didn't use a weight distribution system and it worked great. Just stay within the weight limits posted on the extension.

I had this setup with their super hitch receiver when I had my camper.

Only product I'd use for a WD setup.

http://www.torklift.com/index.php/products/towing/superhitch-supertruss

I had something similar when I had my cabover camper. Mine was simply a heavier gauge receiver insert that was a bit more than 3 feet long. Worked without any issue dragging my 18' trailer loaded with 4 quads
 

Flying_Lavey

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I dont know how heavy your trailer togue is but keep in mind when you extend out the hitch like that it puts a BUNCH more load on the rear axle. Add the approx 2k weight in the bed from the SxS and im really hoping you have a truck that is rated to haul at least 3k lbs.
 

Stainless

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I had something similar when I had my cabover camper. Mine was simply a heavier gauge receiver insert that was a bit more than 3 feet long. Worked without any issue dragging my 18' trailer loaded with 4 quads

You're describing what I mentioned, and yes it worked great. I had a Lance 1191, biggest mofo Lance makes I'm pretty sure, and used the full length Reese.
 

Wadernation

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I had something similar when I had my cabover camper. Mine was simply a heavier gauge receiver insert that was a bit more than 3 feet long. Worked without any issue dragging my 18' trailer loaded with 4 quads


Ya the Torklift is the way to go. I had the 36'' ext. which worked with their hitch system. Wasn't the cheapest but i didn't want to have issues on the road. chevy duramax (no dually) with a 4K Lance camper and towing an 8K enclosed jeep trailer.. talk about a white knuckle ride. but it kept me safe and my shit out of the ditch.
 

Flying_Lavey

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Ya the Torklift is the way to go. I had the 36'' ext. which worked with their hitch system. Wasn't the cheapest but i didn't want to have issues on the road. chevy duramax (no dually) with a 4K Lance camper and towing an 8K enclosed jeep trailer.. talk about a white knuckle ride. but it kept me safe and my shit out of the ditch.
What bag system did you have on there to increase your GVWR that much? Im pretty sure from the factory the SRW 3/4 ton is only has a cargo capacity of about 2,800#.
 

pkrrvr619

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here is some more info:

27' camper trailer with a max weight of 7k and a max tongue weight of 600 lbs.

truck is a 2001 f250 v10 4 door. I don't think payload would be a problem or towing as this thing is a beast.

thanks for all the input.
 

Wadernation

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What bag system did you have on there to increase your GVWR that much? Im pretty sure from the factory the SRW 3/4 ton is only has a cargo capacity of about 2,800#.

i did the Air Lift 5000 bags and on board compressor. It really didnt sag as much as i thought it would..wasnt even close to bottoming out the truck. But i am glad i sold my camper and enclosed trailer because this setup scared the crap out of my for two years during desert season. i later got a flat bed for the jeep..then later sold the camper. We usually wheel at the river and stay in the house or il just tent camp in the dunes.

Picture 811.jpg
 

Flying_Lavey

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i did the Air Lift 5000 bags and on board compressor. It really didnt sag as much as i thought it would..wasnt even close to bottoming out the truck. But i am glad i sold my camper and enclosed trailer because this setup scared the crap out of my for two years during desert season. i later got a flat bed for the jeep..then later sold the camper. We usually wheel at the river and stay in the house or il just tent camp in the dunes.

View attachment 424361
Gotcha. I really want to get a camper when the funds are there but im a pretty firm believer in a DRW long bed for any descent size camper if for no other reason than the extra lateral stability the wider wheel base provides.
 

Wadernation

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Gotcha. I really want to get a camper when the funds are there but im a pretty firm believer in a DRW long bed for any descent size camper if for no other reason than the extra lateral stability the wider wheel base provides.

i completely agree. This camper had the dually swing out brackets for that type of truck setup but i just made it work with what i had. Campers are great and miss that thing...made it very simple to get away for the weekend..cheap insurance...no registration...and do 75mph on the freeway:thumbup:
 

TrojanDan

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i completely agree. This camper had the dually swing out brackets for that type of truck setup but i just made it work with what i had. Campers are great and miss that thing...made it very simple to get away for the weekend..cheap insurance...no registration...and do 75mph on the freeway:thumbup:

Hate to hijack this thread but what tires were you running on your truck for that camper set up? I have a duramax 3500 SRW with a 9.5' camper (with a slideout) and have had issues with my Toyo 285/70/17 Load E tires rated at 3750 lbs each @ 80 psi. I had a recent rear blow out and Toyo is covering the body damage but I'm not trusting the tires anymore.
 

Stainless

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For you guys discussing campers I can attest to the need for a Dually. My first rig was a F-350 SRW with Lance 1030, scared the shit out of me and sold them after a couple trips. Not convinced that I wanted to give up on the idea I bought a 3500HD Siverado DRW w/Dmax & Allison plus a Lance 1191. It was night and day as far as handling and stability. I felt very comfortable pulling the boat with this setup. Wound up getting the Moho itch and sold it to buy the Moho I presently have.
 

Wadernation

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Hate to hijack this thread but what tires were you running on your truck for that camper set up? I have a duramax 3500 SRW with a 9.5' camper (with a slideout) and have had issues with my Toyo 285/70/17 Load E tires rated at 3750 lbs each @ 80 psi. I had a recent rear blow out and Toyo is covering the body damage but I'm not trusting the tires anymore.

i have those same tires now. Load range E. previously i had Wrangler silent armors and hated how they handled in the dunes trying to park..no tred so i switched over and had much better luck. but thanks for the heads up! maybe a bad batch?

For you guys discussing campers I can attest to the need for a Dually. My first rig was a F-350 SRW with Lance 1030, scared the shit out of me and sold them after a couple trips. Not convinced that I wanted to give up on the idea I bought a 3500HD Siverado DRW w/Dmax & Allison plus a Lance 1191. It was night and day as far as handling and stability. I felt very comfortable pulling the boat with this setup. Wound up getting the Moho itch and sold it to buy the Moho I presently have.

In a perfect world i would much rather have the DRW but like i mentioned earlier..i made it work for my set up and budget. Once i switched to the camper / flat bed it was a much nicer and lighter ride. I actually preferred towing with the camper (rather than only the camper on the truck). It felt like the whole rig was glued to the ground with little to no body roll. Campers can feel quit top heavy around turns or at least mine did. Lessons learned.
 

Stainless

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here is some more info:

27' camper trailer with a max weight of 7k and a max tongue weight of 600 lbs.

truck is a 2001 f250 v10 4 door. I don't think payload would be a problem or towing as this thing is a beast.

thanks for all the input.

Nic, Here is a link to a hitch extention with the weight ratings. Your trailer is 1000 lb outside what its rating is for gross, but under on hitch weight. Personally I would be fine with it, but you could have a liability or insurance issue if any thing happed. Secondly, You have to have a 2.5" reciever to use this. You mentioned that you only need to extend 6", is that 6" plus the length of your tailgate down? You can cut these and drill a new hole if you don't need that much length, again what I said about L&I. Obviously the shorter the extension the stronger your setup will be. The worst thing I ever expeirienced with this was driving across a rough RR crossing too fast, with length comes flex.
http://www.reeseprod.com/products.a...ch-extension/hxyNMzUEThezO4ZpzhR4RkMsE576VeBN
 

Stainless

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i have those same tires now. Load range E. previously i had Wrangler silent armors and hated how they handled in the dunes trying to park..no tred so i switched over and had much better luck. but thanks for the heads up! maybe a bad batch?



In a perfect world i would much rather have the DRW but like i mentioned earlier..i made it work for my set up and budget. Once i switched to the camper / flat bed it was a much nicer and lighter ride. I actually preferred towing with the camper (rather than only the camper on the truck). It felt like the whole rig was glued to the ground with little to no body roll. Campers can feel quit top heavy around turns or at least mine did. Lessons learned.

I hear ya! My reason was trying to stay compact bc the truck was the family driver. The time I shit my pants was coming out of a small mtn pass and got hit by a monster gust of wind from the side. I'm convinced to this day that pulling the boat was what kept the truck and camper from turning over. Not trying to scare you, just sharing an unusual expeirience I had.
 
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